• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.660-666
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• 2004

This article describes the change of hand value of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics. The chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by mercerizing process using epichlorohydrin(ECH) as crosslinkins agent, 2% aqueous acetic acid as a solvent of chitosan and ECH, and 20% aqueous sodium hydroxide as a mercerizing agent and crosslinking catalyst. Cotton fabrics were dipped in the mixed solution of chitosan and ECH, picked up by mangle, mercerized and crosslinked in NaOH solution, and finally wash and dry. Mechanical and physical properties of the chitosan crosslinked fabric were investigated using Kawabata Evaluation System(KES) and other instruments. Tensile energy and tensile strain were decreased with the increase of the concentration of chitosan. Tensile resilience, compression resilience bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, shear stiffness, shear hysteresis, coefficient of friction, geometrical roughness, compression linearity, compressional energy, and thickness were increased with the increase of the concentration of chitosan. On the other hand, bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, coefficient of friction, geometrical roughness, compressional resilience, and thickness were increased with the increase of the concentration of crosslinking agent(epichlorohydrin).

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.83-94
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to analyze the reality of clothes-wearing among physically disabled women and propose trouser designs. As a research method, an in-depth interview method was adopted for 10 women in their 30s and 50s with lower limb disabilities who could wear trousers and use wheelchairs. The study results identified the following factors that should be considered in the design of trousers. First, a semi-casual design that could hide physical deficiencies, was not different from ready-made clothes and enabled various looks was desirable. Second, the proper material would have little transformation in the form, have remarkable durability and laundry fastness, two-directional stretch, and hide deficiencies with a sense of thickness and density. Third, an "L-frame" pattern in a sitting position, and a straight fit were desirable. Finally, pockets can impose pressure according to their form, size, position, and sewing method, highlighted the need for a sewing approach to minimize seams in the fabric. For adjustment, an elastic band would be a good choice in terms of type, length, position, and material as it could satisfy both the convenience of putting on and taking off and comfort in wearing at the same time. Decorative design details can also impose pressure according to a sense of thickness, which means that they should be avoided in parts that are close to the body or can impose pressure according to posture.

• Membrane and Water Treatment
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.139-145
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• 2022

Development in advanced separation processes leads to the significant advancement in polymeric membrane preparation methodology. Therefore, present research investigated the preparation and characterization of cellulose acetate membrane by phase inversion separation method to determine optimized operating parameters. Prepared CA membrane's performance was been analyzed in terms of % rejection and flux. Investigation was conducted to study effect of different parameters such as polymer concentration, evaporation rate, thickness of film, coagulation bath properties, temperature of polymer solution and of the coagulation bath etc. CA membrane was fabricated by taking polymer concentration 10wt% and 11wt% with zero second evaporation time and varying film thickness over non-woven polyester fabric. Effect of coagulation bath temperature (CBT) and casting solution temperature were also been studied. The experimental results from SEM showed that the surface morphology had been changed with polymer r concentration, coagulation bath and casting solution temperature, etc. Lower polymer concentration leads to lower precipitation time giving porous membrane. The prepared membrane was tested for advanced waste water treatment of relevant effluent stream in pilot plant to study flux and rejection behavior of the membrane.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.3 s.31
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• pp.259-267
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• 1989

In this paper, the fabric specimen undergoes repeated laundering under given condition. After this cyclic laundering was applied, the crease recoveries of the specimen were measured using shirley crease revovery tester in order to evaluate the effect of factors at given condition during crease deformation. 5 samples of grey plain cloth were desized, alkali-scoured, bleached, whased with water, and air-dried. All tests were made on samples preconditioned to $65\%\;RH\;and\;20^{\circ}C$. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate crease recoveries and the properties of smaples, recovery periods (time) of crease. Furthermore, the crease recoveries of core-spun yarn woven fabrics were discussed in comparison with those values for $100\%$ combed cotton yarn woven fabric and $65\%$ polyester $35\%$ carded cotton blended yarn woven fabric. The results obtained are as follows; 1. Regardless of materials, remarkable decrease are observed in crease recoveries about 1-5 cycles of the repeated laundering, but slack decrease are observed in crease recoveries after 5 cycle of the re-peated laundering. 2. Crease recoveries ($\alpha$) of core-spun yarn woven fabrics are relate to recovery periods (t) of crease as follows; log$\alpha$=0.01415 log t+2.1168 ($r^2=0.94$) 3. Core-spun yarn woven fabrics were superior to $100\%$ combed cotton yarn woven fabrics and $65\%$ polyester $35\%$ carded cotton blended yarn woven fabric in crease recoveries. 4. Crease recoveries ($\alpha$) of core-spun yarn woven fabrics are relate to cover factor (CF), thickness (T) at pressure 0.5 $gf/cm^2$, weight (W) as follows; log$\alpha$=-0.3482 log CF-0.4924 log T-0.4727 W+2.4243 ($r^2=0.88$) 5. Crease recoveries ($\alpha$) of core-spun yarn woven fabrics are relate to 2HB/B, 2HB/W, $\sqrt[3]{B/W}$, WC/T which are concerning to formation of weared clothes and bending Iran formation behavior as follows: log $\alpha$=0.0091 2HB/B+0.4667 2HB/W+0.0185 $\sqrt[3]{B/W}$+0.0114 WC/T+1.8433 ($r^2=0.86$)

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.391-402
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• 2010

In this study, breathable waterproof materials were prepared by electrospinning. Five kinds of electrospun nanofiber web layered systems with different levels of nanofiber web density, as well as different substrates and layer structures were fabricated, and their mechanical properties (tensile, bending, shear, compression, surface, and thickness & weight) were measured by the KES-FB system and compared with those of conventional breathable waterproof fabrics (densely woven fabric, PTFE laminated fabric and PU coated fabric). The KES-FB measurements demonstrate that the lab-scale nanofiber web layered systems are more flexible and fuller than commercial nanofiber web layered systems, which have a more compact structure than the lab-scale nanofiber web layered systems. Densely woven fabrics and lab-scale nanofiber web layered systems showed lower values of tensile linearity (LT), bending stiffness (B), and shear stiffness (G) than those of PU coated and PTFE laminated fabric. These results indicate that they are more flexible and have less resistance to the shearing movement, corresponding to a more pliable material having a better drape, than PU coated fabrics and PTFE laminated fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.566-571
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• 2008

Frictional sounds of 8 vapor permeable water repellent fabrics by sound generator were recorded and analyzed through FFT fast Fourier transform analysis. The frictional Sounds were quantified by calculating level pressure of total sound(LPT), the level range(${\Delta}L$) and the frequency difference(${\Delta}f$). Mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB. LPT values of specimens finished wet coating were higher than those of other kinds of finishing. ${\Delta}L$ values of specimens laminated were highest. Absolute values of ${\Delta}f$ were high in the cire finished and laminated specimens. Values for bending rigidity, shear stiffness and energy required for the compression of coated specimens increased compared with the cire finished and laminated specimens. Laminated specimens had high values of frictional coefficient and low values of surface roughness. Relationship between frictional sounds and mechanical properties analysed by use of correlation coefficients and stepwise regression. LPT showed significant correlation with elongation, tensile energy, geometrical roughness, weight and thickness. ${\Delta}L$ was highly correlated with tensile linearity, frictional coefficient, and ${\Delta}f$ with tensile linearity, weight and thickness. LPT were revealed to be explained by elongation and weight. ${\Delta}L$were predicted by tensile linearity, and ${\Delta}f$ by tensile linearity and thickness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.471-482
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• 1995

Using the acetate velvet and viscose velvet whose pile lengths were sheared as 1.45, 1.55, 1 65, 1.75, 1.85, 1.90mm under the condition equating the weaving process of ground fabric, the conclusions were as follows through the results of the sensory assessments estimated by women students in our university and the physical properties, H. V and T. H. V obtained by KES-F system. 1. In the sensory assessments estimated by the method of paired comparison and ranking of samples, the longer pile length was, the more the hand values of smoothness, softness, thickness, heaviness increased on the whole. 2. The H V. and T. H. V. measured by KES-F system were as follows; Kohi increased to pile length 1.85mm and then decreased a little at 1.90mm. hummer increased as pile length was longer. Fukurami increased to pile length 1.75mm and then decreased gradually as pile length was longer. Total hand value increased gradually from 1. 45mm to 1.85mm, had the top value at 1.85mm, and then decreased a little at 1.90mm. 3. In the results of summarizing $\ulcorner$the physical properties correlated closely with the H. V obtained by sensory assessments$\lrcorner$ and tithe Physical properties correlated closely with the H. V. and T. H. V obtained by KES-F systems, it showed that all the sensory properties correlated closely with compressive energy, flexural rigidity, thickness, weight and pile ratio in the former and that the physical properties correlated closely with each H V and T. H. V were different in the latter. 4. It showed that factor 1 was related to compressive energy, thickness, weight, pile ratio, factor 2 was related to recovery energy, compressive resilience, compressive index, and factor 3 was related to compressive recovery ratio in the result of factor analysis. 5. In the multiple repression analysis, the expressions of all sensory properties had compressive ratio, frictional coefficient in the regression expressions of $\ulcorner$H. V. obtained by sensory assessments$\lrcorner$, while the expressions of each H. V. and different physical properties in the regression expressions of $\ulcorner$H. V. obtained by KES-F system$\lrcorner$.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.163-174
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• 2018

Consumer and property evaluation of wetsuit materials were conducted to obtain useful data for developing competitive products that meet consumer expectations and improving industrial competitiveness. Data were collected through online surveys of 213 domestic consumers who have experienced wearing wetsuit among marine leisure activities. Five types of commercial wet suit materials by brand and four types of commercial wet suit materials with the same quality by thickness were collected. Then, their physical properties, salt water resistance and thermal insulation rate were evaluated and compared. As a result, the most commonly used wetsuit material is 3 to 5 mm thick, and the basic jersey material is bonded on both sides. As a processing for imparting functionality, processing for improving warmth and reducing surface resistance are most frequently used. Consumers often feel uncomfortable when wearing a wetsuit, such as wearing comfort, weight, ease of movement, stretchability, and clothing pressure, which are different from those of casual wear. Also, mechanical strength and warmth were considered to be the most important criteria for selection of wetsuit material for purchase or rental. The mechanical properties of brand A and B were better than those of brand C, D, and E. Resilience and thermal shrinkage were better in brand C, D, and E. On the other hand, there was no significant difference in the physical properties due to the difference in thickness of the material at the same quality. Also, it was found that the thicker the material, the more stable it is in the heat. Brand A and B had superior salt water resistance than brand C, D, and E. In the thermal insulation test, brand A and B showed better insulation characteristics than brand C, D, and E, but the types of bonded fabric and surface finishing of materials were thought to have affected. In comparison of the thickness, the thicker the materials, the better the salt resistance and the thermal insulation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.852-862
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• 2007

This study was to investigate the physical properties and the external characteristics of denim fabrics(100% cotton non-spun denim, 98% cotton/2% polyurethane spun denim) such as tensile strength, thickness and weight, flex stiffness, surface color and shrinkage. The results of the study were as follows. After examining the change of external characteristics of before and after washing finishing for denim fabrics, denim with bio washing had increased pliability compared to denim without washing finishing but the pliability of the denim did not increase according to the intensity or frequency of washing. The luminance change according to washing finishing was high in the order of bio stone bleach washing, bio stone washing, bio washing and denim without washing finishing and the surface color became brighter in accordance with the increase of intensity and frequency of washing finishing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.131-142
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• 2008

One of the major fashion trends is the naturalism and ecology-conscious trend. The natural looks required in the trend require somewhat random distribution of yarn linear density, which results in irregular appearance along the yarn. This is a technically challenging work of producing yarns that look natural far from being artificial yet maintaining the intricately aesthetic randomness without causing process disturbances. This study focused on the characteristics of fabrics made of natural cellulosic fibers including hemp, ramie, flax, and polyester fabrics. Image analysis of the fabric samples included area measurement of yarn specimen, FFT and inverse FFT. Measurements of bending resistance, thickness, air permeability, and weight were also implemented to interpret the structural differences.