• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.25-36
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive technique of grunge look in knitwear fashion. For this study, I have investigated theories of retro and decontructionism trends, and have examined pictures from professional fashion magazines. The results of study on the expressive technique of grunge look reflected on the knitwear fashion were as follows; (1) patchwork technique, which is an outstanding method of recycling, (2) handknitting technique, which came from retro trend of hippism, (3) unfinished edge, which emphasized the image of poverty and incompleteness, (4) irregular lace knitting and slash technique, which is the typical details of grunge look and denies the traditional fashion order, (5) hand stitch technique using various materials, which gives second-hand mood of hippie look, and (6) fringe details, which originated from the unfinished edge technique.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.21-39
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to develop a creative technique in fashion illustration through analyzing expressive characteristics of $d{\acute{e}}paysement$. This study is analyzed by examining the general theories of $d{\acute{e}}paysement$ and investigating the expressive technique related to the method of $d{\acute{e}}paysement$ in surrealism art and the expressive characteristics which is applied to fashion illustration. In this study, the researcher examines cases of the application of $d{\acute{e}}paysement$ to the fashion illustration through reviewing fashion illustrators' art works created since 2000. $D{\acute{e}}paysement$ is unfamiliar impression with lexical meaning in french that is translated by transposition or displacement technique, or country and one's home leave or person put in strange living environment. The characteristics of $d{\acute{e}}paysement$ in fashion illustration include spatial distortion, combination of heterogeneous objects located anywhere odd and modification and conversion of objects such as material change, change-over of scale in usual objects and conversion of inanimate objects into organism. As a result of reviewing the expressive characteristics of Depaysement from fashion illustration artworks, it is found that the fashion illustration with $d{\acute{e}}paysement$ fortified the individuality in fashion illustration and helps produce a creative inspiration which results in a distinctive ideas. This also has a greate possibilities to produce a tremendous ideas in fashion illustration.

• 복식
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• 제30권
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• pp.167-181
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• 1996

Towards the second half of 20th century the fashion market has become increasely fragmented reflecting the pluality of cultures. As a result style no longer had time to accrue individuality and so people lost interest. In the aftermath of this fashion has turned its atten-tion to its materials for inspiration and inno-vation. Taking their inspiration for new working designers have began to explore diverse materials and expressive techniques of tex-ture. Textural expression can change the im-age of a garment even on with the same structural design. This study is to present the crinkle express-ive technique of texture through the applied examples in contemporary fashion and related backgrounds. The result of this study testified the import-ance of texture as plastic element through various techniques of crinkle; 1) creasing technique is reminiscent of the delphos of Fortuny by modern materials 2) twisting tech-nique is that finished garment is twisted and crumpled by hand 3) shirnking technique is recreated method that is crushed and tied for granting the human touch to the material.

• 한국엔터테인먼트산업학회논문지
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• 제13권8호
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• pp.255-266
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• 2019

본 연구는 캐나다 출신의 NFBC 소속 작가인 미쉘 꾸르놔이에가 사용하는 Ink on paper 기법을 고찰하고, 이를 통하여 실현된 애니메이션 "Soif"(2013)에 나타나는 표현양식인 메타모포시스(metamorphosis)가 내러티브의 구성을 위하여 구현된 의미와 상징을 고찰한다. 꾸르놔이에는 애니메이션의 사실적인 움직임을 벗어나기 위해 Ink on paper 표현양식을 사용하였으며, "Soif"에서는 극중 여자의 몸 캐릭터를 중심으로 일반적인 기승전결 형식이 아닌 인물과 사물의 이미지 변형을 메타모포시스 표현양식을 통해 보여준다. 이는 초현실주의와 무의식의 세계를 표현하기 위한 애니메이션에서의 즉흥적인 방법을 도입한 Ink on paper 기법을 통해 형상화된다. 그리고 이 작품에 적용된 자동기술법은 애니메이션을 추상적이고 형이상학적으로 표현하는데 영향을 주고 있다. 결국 이러한 표현양식과 기법은 작품에 등장하는 캐릭터의 연계성과 동일성을 강조하여 주제를 표현하는 데 매우 적절하게 작용한다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.515-526
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• 2009

From traditional ceremony to science technology, origami was used as technique for artistic creativity and functionality based on formative characteristics. The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive characteristics of functionality in fashion design using origami technique. The method of this study was to analyze recent documentaries, fashion books, fashion magazines, internet web site and so forth. The results were as follows: In various fields of design, the category of the expressive characteristics was classified as efficient correspondence of space, compositive convergence of function, variable potentiality of form and human ergonomic optimum. In recent origami fashion based on functionality, the efficient correspondence of space was expressed constructive or decorative pocket design, using on clothing surface and varied design by lifestyle. The compositive convergence of function was expressed innovative connection of fashion items or non-fashion items and deconstructed classical clothing pattern. The variable potentiality of form was expressed control of form by irregular fold, dynamic metamorphosis by organic fold and creation of varied clothing silhouette. The human ergonomic optimum was expressed metamorphosis mechanism from two dimension to three dimension, suitable construction to physical ability and limit and organic form based on articular folding. The functional origami fashion means reflection of nomadic lifestyle, maximum of usability, pursuit of playful sensibility, creation of new body aesthetic and pursuit of technology and humanism. And the result of these study may be used for creative inspiration in fashion design because of unique characteristics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권4호
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• pp.659-668
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• 2008

Today, Fashion illustration has been diversified in its usage and respotlighted in the significance of its artistry by artists' interpretation and subjective perspectives. The purpose of this study is to find out theoretical reestablishment of this extended expression sphere and possible expression coverage of Fashion illustration. First, based on the Fashion illustration works revealing expressive features of Pop Art, this study reviews major considerations of Fashion illustration, i.e. assemblage, silk screen and new possible perspectives respectively. Therefore, based on the reviews, this study seeks to deduce pop art characteristics of expression technique found in Fashion illustration. Expression modes of Pop Art are represented broadly by assemblage, silk screen and new perspectives. Based on corresponding case analysis, this study could come to find out the following expressive features of pop art revealed in Fashion illustration: First, it is found that contemporary Fashion illustration pursues unbounded expressions and unprecedented styles owing to material variety. Second, it is found that contemporary Fashion illustration tries to adopt new and experimental techniques including computer program. Third, it is found that Fashion illustration characterized mainly by expressive features of Pop Art shows and pioneer a wide variety of application spheres including commercials(ads), newspaper or magazine illustration and cartoon ads simply beyond designer's creative drawing. Furthermore, it is expected that Pop Art's expressive features shown in Fashion illustration will evolve through a fusion with various experimental techniques, and keep having cultural and artistic influence in the future as well.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.17-32
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• 2017

Modern society has been transformed into a digital emotional society that could gradually be seen, felt, and enjoyed by the diversification of personal consumption desires due to digital development. Accordingly, in fashion, an original fashion sense that arose out of classical and conventional thinking has become important and there is an increasing interest in patchwork quilts. The purpose of this study lies in contributing to the development and utilization of creative and emotional fashion design by expanding the mental changes that have emerged in modern society to creative areas after analyzing the classification and expression characteristics of the type cases of patchwork quilt techniques expressed in modern fashion. In addition, it is meaningful to examine how the expressive characteristics of patchwork quilts are expressed in the digital emotion era. This study paralleled literature research and empirical case studies. In the scope and method of research, the theatrical research was centered on literature data. For visual data, website photos were collected, limited to women's clothing among the collections from Fall & Winter 2014 to Spring & Summer 2017. After drawing the expression types of patchwork quilts extracted from the previous research based on the design formative factors, the fashion-related expert group analyzed the expressive characteristics of 501 photographs in which the patchwork quilt of the designer clothing collection were reflected. As a result of analysis, the expressive types appeared in the order of diversification of techniques and materials, extended dual images, new formative composition, and reconstruction of traditional patchwork. In this study, the expressive characteristics of patchwork quilts expressed in contemporary fashion are analyzed and drawn as variability, compromise, convergence, and playfulness. Through this, it is hoped that this study can be used variously in the development of fashion design by expanding the interpretation of costume culture.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.163-172
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• 2003

캘리그라피 기법은 요즘 동서양을 막론하고 다양한 분야에서 활용되어지고 있다. 광고, 패키지, 심볼마크, 로고타입, 영화포스터 등의 그래픽디자인 분야에서 심지어 현대추상회화에 이르기까지 현대인의 시각환경을 망라하고 있다. 이는 기호 및 운동표현으로서의 그 역동적이고 암시적인 표현력이 재인식되었기 때문이다. 기계적이고 인위적인 디지털환경, 획일적이고 공식화된 모더니즘적 경향에 대한 현대인의 이탈심리의 작용으로 동양적 신비감과 정서적 친근감을 갖춘 새로운 표현양식으로서 캘리그라피 기법에 주목한다. 따라서 본 논문은 캘리그라피의 역사를 조명하고, 특성을 이해하며, 현대회화와 그래픽디자인에 확장된 가치를 모색하여 시각언어와 표현양식의 확산에 기여하고자 한다. 또한 동양화적 기법과 재료, 캘리그라피 기법을 혼용한 캘리일러스트(Calli-Illust)에 대한 개념의 정립과 활용 가능성에 대해 탐색하여 일러스트의 영역을 확장하고자 하였다. 그 결과를 보면 캘리그라피 기법은 추상표현주의 회화의 한 양식으로서, 새로운 조형세계의 영역을 확장시킨 공헌을 하고 있으며, 다양한 디자인 환경 속에서 비판 없이 수용되었던 서구의 이성적, 합리적 그리고 기하학적인 기능주의 디자인 양식의 한계점을 타개할 새로운 표현양식으로 발전시킬 필요가 있음을 도출하였다. 또한 이전까지 캘리그라피의 개념에 포함되어 이해되었던 캘리일러스트에 대한 개념과 정치를 확보할 수 있었다. 캘리일러스트에 대한 연구는 이제 시작에 불과하다. 앞으로 보다 심도 있고 폭넓은 연구가 진행되어 커뮤니케이션 디자인에 다각적으로 적용될 수 있게 되길 기대한다.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제13권
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• pp.123-137
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• 1996

직조는 예술과 기술과의 상호 관계에 관심을 가지고 있는 디자이너에게 이상적인 연구 대상이다. 특히, 이중적인 4종광 이상의 제제에서 만들 수 있는 두 겹 직물로서 여러 가지 목적 및 기능에 따라 광폭 직물, 양면 무늬 직물, 등 특수 직물을 생산하기 위해 산업에서 사용되고 있다. 그러나 가 지니고 있는 매력적인 특징은 미적 이 요구되는 섬유 작업에서 의견로서 다양하게 응용되어질 수 있다. 본 논문은 문헌 자료와 sample 제작을 통해 이중 직의 개념과 종류 및 특징을 설명하였으며 이중 직을 연구한 작가들의 대표적 작품들을 분석함으로써 기법이 가지고 있는 잠재적 특성을 강조하였다. 이중 직 기법은 구조 및 의견 에 따라 다양한 이미지를 나타낼 수 있으므로 직조가 들이 기술에 의한 독특한 표현을 하여 시킬 수 있는 창조 적을 제시하고 있다.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.45-54
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• 2013

With the development of digital technology, clothes of unique textiles using the digital printing techniques have appeared as a creative trend in textile design. The development of digital textile printing technology has allowed the fashion industry to utilize it as an expressive method of a surrealist trend in current fashion designs, and so it is necessary to understand and study this phenomenon. The present study is an attempt to understand this modern fashion phenomena from an artistic perspective by looking at textile designs that applied actual images to textiles, so that this trend in fashion design can be better understood. In this context, this study aims to examine characteristics and expressive techniques of d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme associated with digital textile printing by using actual images among surrealist expressions, and to investigate creative expressions of textile design freely expressing the visual boundary between reality and surrealism with the development of digital technology. For research methods, we reviewed technical texts and previous studies related to our research topic for theoretical exploration and investigated the Internet data and used them for basic data. In the case study, we came up with the characteristics and meanings by classifying fashion design cases using digital textile printing techniques according to expressive techniques of surrealist d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme. Details of this study are as follows: First, it investigates the definition and expressive characteristics of d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme of the surrealist expression for its theoretical understanding. Second, it comes up with the characteristics by analyzing the digital textile cases from the perspective of d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme. Third, it deduces the expressive methods and characteristics of digital textile printing from a the perspective of surrealist d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme based on the resulting characteristics. The conclusions show that d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme, which consists of improvisation and coincidence, maximized the mysterious images of derealisation and mysterious primitive images. These things emphasized the characteristics of maximization of images, derealisation, and rationalization of irrationalism.