• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.465-469
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• 2003

The present study revealed; that (1) The students majoring in a piano course were the preference type of the performance dress - best line was designed of upper form chest. It was 1.5cm shorter than armhole line, the princess line was preferred Top one piece without sleeves which was designed with slim by bottom line through west dart form best line. The expression method was showing embroidery and bidding, colors were in order to white, ivory, black and blue style. The material was in order to silk with glorious shinning, silk satin and race style. (2) The students majoring in a vocal music were the preference type of the performance dress - the princess line was designed shorter, the west line of back and forth was preferred the one piece of bulk style divided with three partitions. Neck line was 5cm shorter than the middle of back, 9cm shorter than the side neck position, 9cm shorter than the middle of forth, sweet heart neck line with circular sleeve designed 7cm shorter than the side neck position. Colors were in order to ivory, red and yellow style. The material was in order to silk with glorious shinning silk satin and race style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.20
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• pp.137-150
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• 1993

Sonia Delaunay was among the group of avant-garde artists drawn to Paris in the early part of this century who were exploring concepts of art that were felt to capture best the speed and me chanization of the modern world. She believed modernity-and her own attitude toward modern life-could be expressed through the primacy of color in art the dynamic inter-play of its dissonances and harmonies. The metap-hysical implications Delauny felt inherent in this idea made it applicable to all surfaces, and she was compelled to transform the world around her ac-cording to it. She set up a dialogue between fine art and everyday objects and accompplished the transition from representation work to her color theory through her investigation in embroidery and collage. This study is for Sonia Delaunay's field fo work which is close to fine and applied arts. To study Sonia Delaunay's work, I can find some points of her fashion designs. First, Simultaneous, which is to use collage tec-henics such as simultaneous and meterial to com-binate of variety meterial. Seound, Durability which is restoration of mor-dern fashion, Eventhough her work is 60 years old still it is foward to the furture. Imitation of textile which is devdloped by her, always looks new and fresh. Third, The elements of Folklore. Her elements of Russia, it appears on variety colors. Sepecially contemporary cloths has elements of folklore, we should use it and made it to suituble to contem-porary fashion of our country. For the furture, we need more study how to apply pictorial meterial of art into fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.6
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• pp.145-157
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• 2008

Vivienne Tam was born in mainland China and educated in Hong Kong and has worked mainly in New York. Within multi-cultural background, she has shown unique fashion designs where western styles and China esprit were harmonized.. This study analyzed the ethnic look featured on Vivienne Tam's design to identify how she has expressed her ethnic identity into fashion. Photos featuring ethnic appeal among her New York collection from 1996 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed in terms of shape/silhouette, color, fabric, motifs, detail and accessaries. She utilized frequently chinese motifs and patterns such as bamboo, panda, budha, flowers, letters, and masks. Secondly she modified the shapes of Chinese traditional costume like Quipao to render ethnic appeal. Color, fabric and detail like frog and embroidery also contributed to enhance China mood. Comparatively, she used western clothing items including shirts, blouses, skirts, pants, dresses, and coats and maintained the silhouette tight and fit so that most her designs look wearable and westernized.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.679-690
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to comprehend western style in fashion and to contemplate the hybrid tendency reflected on western style, thereby to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of the hybrid tendency of western style. For such purposes, this study first examines western style historically, in order to analyze hybrid tendency reflected on western style, and conduct a case study by analyzing photographic materials of pr t- -porter collection since 1980s. The result of this study is as follows: the hybrid tendency reflected on western style are modification and fusion of regional culture, adaptation and composition of subcultures, and appropriation of sexual minority culture. (1) Modification and fusion of regional culture is expressed in ethnic items and patterns of embroidery, mixing Mexican and Spanish, American Indian and American cultural references. (2) Adaptation and composition of subcultures emphasize traditional or vintage western style by mixing characteristics of western and other subcultures. (3) Appropriation of sexual minority culture is expressed in rhinestone chaps and fetish corset, glitter rodeo suit, reminiscent of drag or queer cultural references. The result of this study will provide basis which can be utilized in the development and educational background of fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.4 s.57
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• pp.513-525
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• 2005

This article examines how the development process of muff has changed over history as well as considering value. This study is based on secondary sources such as books and fashion magazines. The imminent value of muff based on the results of this historical study can be summarized by its utility, its ornamentation, and its fashion value. First, muff is not only used to protect the hands or to keep them warm, but also as a substitute for the purse. Second, muff is an ornament decorated mainly with fur, using splendid colors, patterns, embroidery etc. Third, muff goes with other clothes as an ornament, and therefore, can be a means to express the attitude or behavior of many circumstances. Muff has vanished in casual wear and could meet by chance in a designers collection. However, the fashion value of muff brings it new attention making various creative fashion images by itself or with other clothes in the modern fashion trend. This study on the history and the aesthetic value of muff could stimulate the appreciation of the ornamentation aside from the clothes and serve to develop a new creative way in fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.1042-1055
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to consider the formative characteristics of dance sports from such points of view as shapes, colors, material and decorations, and to examine artistic characteristics that are expressed through those elements. As a result, this study shows five artistic characteristics as follows; First, rhythmic characteristic is expressed with repeat of lines that is formed by pleats, shirring or gather, with duplication of ruffle's wave, with gradation of colors, with Moire-effect that is generated with overlap of see-through material, with glossy material that reflects lights to a great extent, with fringe. Second, bodily characteristic emphasizes the beauty of human bodies through direct or indirect body exposure by way of cut-and-open, see-throughness or close adhesion. Third, decorative characteristic is shown with beads, fringe, ruffle, embroidery, shirring, binding, or feather. Fourth, the beauty of female body is manifested to express eroticism, which is culminated by body exposure, body consciousness, use of illuminating or see-through material or colorful trimming. Finally, elegant characteristic is revealed through feminity, sophistication, and harmony that are expressed with black and white colors, see-through material, or bead trimmings.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.956-970
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• 2006

The purposes of this study was to analyze the characteristics of national races' costumes in Chinese contemporary costumes. For the purpose, this researcher concentrated on the relations between national races' costumes and Chinese contemporary costumes and discuss systematically depending on references such as fashion magazines, picture albums, and historical records. The results of study were as follows: First, the formation of fashion has been influenced by Man, Uighur, and Choson races. For example, Qipao, the tight style of Man race's fashion, Uighur race's bell style sleeve and cyclic skirt are applied to women's modern fashion. Second, weaving, printing, and embroidery technique of a minority race developed more than Han race, so applied still. Recently, Chinese contemporary costumes accepted the weaving technique of Miao and Uighur race through publicizing of a minority culture. Third, a national race's costumes are famous with splendid design and applied to modern fashion directly. They are commonly made to hair pin, necklace, earing, bracelet and so on. Recently, styles from a national race's costumes and old style are becoming popular to Chinese and it's easier to found such a fashion in market.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.83-95
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to research adolescents' practical awareness about the contents(classify them into four units, choice and dressing of clothes, textile and management of clothes, design and sewing of clothes, knitting and embroidery) clothing and textiles education in their real life. This is the investigation of which 730(middle school students 246, high school students 248, university students 236) girl students located in Junrabukdo and Choongchungnam. In this statistical analysis. SPSS 10.0 for Windows Program was utilized to calculate percentage, mean and standard deviation. Also, these materials wert verified by t-test, One-way Anova. The main results of obtained this study are as follows. Adolescents' practical awareness about the contents of clothing and textiles education in their real life appears to be low(only 8 items were over median point of 3.0) There was a significant difference in practical awareness of contents of clothing and textiles education according to early$.$middle$.$latter adolescents and demographic variables differed significantly. These results should be provide fundamental information for improving students' critical practice in their real life. Since this study has touched only limited research on the topic of clothing and textiles education, it is essential that further research covering a wider array of themes be done in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.20-33
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• 2011

This study aims to analyze the expressive aspect of men's shirts through examining the characteristics of men's shirts with the trend of men's clothing well represented and considering the image based on high fashion. As a method of study, I have conducted the theoretical study through the literature data, and the content analysis through photographs from S/S collection in 2005 to F/W collection in 2010. Especially, in the recent men's shirts, the materials of glossy silk, wavering chiffon and jersey tend to appear and various images are represented with the tasteful decoration such as ruffle, pin tuck and embroidery together with pastel color. Thus, the result of this study is as follows: Firstly, the masculine and romantic images are researched as the image emphasizing the beautiful and soft masculine beauty which doesn't lose the masculinity even though they are seasonedwith the feminine elements. Soft masculine beauty is emphasized by using romantic image decoration of frills, beads and pin tuck or silk, jersey and openwork materials etc. Secondly, practical fusion images have been studied as the images emphasizing the freshness with practicality through grafting more than two items onto one shirt. Many designs have appeared representing new shapes by grafting more than two items onto one shirt or obscuring the border line between the items. Thirdly, the avant-garde chic images have been researched as the image emphasizing the chick image through representing unique and odd designs by excessively expressing the silhouette in general shapes of shirts. I come. to find that the mainly the designs, emphasizing the uniqueness and the distinction with transformed shapes of sleeves, cuffs and the length of shirts in exaggerated manners, are appearing. Thus, I intend to provide a reference material which will be useful for the newly created design and researches of figurative characteristics in the future fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.95-105
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• 2015

This study investigated the color culture in the Japanese Medieval Age. The Japanese Medieval Age included the Kamakura period (1180-1333) and Muromachi period (1336-1573), and the leading group transitioned from the Kuge families to the Buke families. The taboos about colors from ancient times became nominal, and forbidden colors, such as purple, celadon, and red, became the colors of the samurai, leading to beautiful soldier gears that were unparalleled in history. In the Kamakura period, colors that conveyed a strong impression were created and preferred with the combination of a samurai's reasonable spirit and zen thoughts. The period was also called "the era of hari", and cross dyeing based on basic colors such as suou (red), ai (blue), and kuchinasi (yellow) was popular. In both the Kamakura and Muromachi periods, conspicuous and strong colors were sought for costumes, and embroidery was used with gold leaf, silver leaf, gold threads, silver threads, and background color. The colors of costume preferred by Buke men in the period included green, blue, and brown. In the characteristics of the kosode, the sugan and hitadare were used for men's formal dress, while kosode was used for the grooming of the working class. In these periods, additionally, the working class began to be socially engaged in actively wearing the one-layer kosode, which became popular, and the characteristics of the Japanese Medieval Age, during which functionality and practicality was valued, were also reflected in the dressing.