• Title/Summary/Keyword: ease amount

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Development of tight-fit patterns for adult males according to the 3D body surface segment method (3D 체표면 분할 전개방법에 의한 성인 남성 밀착원형 설계)

  • Hong, Eun-Hee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.28 no.1
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    • pp.1-14
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    • 2020
  • This study is based on a representative body shape drawn from previous studies that classify adult male torso shapes. In this study, a design method is proposed by developing a tight-fit pattern that can be easily developed into various items and designs using the body surface development figure. This is obtained by converting the 3D body shape of the model representing the representative body shape. The specific design method was conducted as follows. Actual measurement values were used for waist back length, waist-to-hip length, shoulder length. The scye depth was determined as C/4-1.7 cm, and the front and back Interscye was set at (1/2 × actual measurements)-0.2 cm. The front-back neck breadth was set to (1/5 × base neck circumference)-1.3 cm and (1/5 × base neck circumference) cm. The front-back neck depth was set to (1/5 × base neck circumference)-1.2 cm and 3.5 cm. Front chest circumference was C/4-1 (front-back difference)cm; (1/4 × back chest circumference) was C/4 + 1 (front-back difference) + 0.3 (dart amount) cm. Front waist circumference was W/4-0.2 (front-back difference) + 2.2 (dart amount) cm; back waist circumference was W/4 + 0.2 (front-back difference) + 2.5 (dartamount) cm; front hip circumference was H/4 + 0.2 (ease) + 0.2 (front-back difference) cm; and back hip circumference was H/4 + 0.2 (ease)-0.2 (front-back difference) cm; Front droop was 1.6 cm. The newly developed tight-fit pattern is expected to be of great use as a basis for garment construction.

Development of Jacket Bodice Pattern for Elderly Women Using 3D Pattern Design System (3D 패턴 디자인 시스템에 의한 노년 여성의 재킷바디스패턴 연구)

  • Suh, Chu-Yeon
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.8 no.5
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    • pp.552-561
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    • 2006
  • This study was conducted to suggest an appropriate jacket bodice pattern for elderly women by comparing the developed pattern with existing ready-made jacket pattern. The developed jacket bodice pattern was produced from the basic sloper in which elderly women's somatotype was fully reflected, by using the newly developed 3D pattern design system. Subjects were 6 elderly women aged from 60 to 69 who have average somatotype in their age group. This study carried out pattern analysis and self-sensory test with three ready-made jackets(national brands) and suggested a developed jacket pattern based on the results. According to the self sensory test results of ready-made jacket, wearing fitness among brands was significantly different even though those brands were same B91 size. The results of ready-made jackets' pattern analysis, size differences among patterns have influenced wearing fitness. The basic numerical formula for the jacket pattern considered elderly women's somatotype were as follows; $B/4+2{\pm}0.2{\sim}0.5$(difference of front and back), $W/4+2{\pm}0.2{\sim}0.5$(difference of front and back), H/4+2~7(ease amount), armhole depth B/4, chest width B/6+1, back width B/6+3 and back neck width B/12+0.5. According to the results of the developed jacket's appearance evaluation, it earned higher scores in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that the developed jacket is appropriate for the elderly women. Also, in the evaluation on space length, the developed jacket pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length in all around of measurement parts.

Men's Work Clothes Jumper Pattern-making and Its Appearance Evaluation through 3-D Clothing Simulation (3차원 가상착의 시뮬레이션을 이용한 20~50대 연령별 남성 작업복 점퍼 패턴 설계 및 외관평가)

  • Park, Gin-Ah;Lee, Woo-Kyoung
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.16 no.1
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    • pp.103-120
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    • 2012
  • The study aimed to evaluate the appearance of the men's work clothes jumpers developed to suggest the prototype work clothes jumper patterns by using the 3-D clothing simulation technology. The 3-D simulated clothing images considered the upper body features of men in the age range between 20 and 59 in South Korea. A questionnaire survey conducted previously suggested a basic jumper style with shirt collar and snap opening cuffs for the heavy industry workers; and discomforting parts of the work clothes jumper of the subject workers have been referred to for the experimental jumper appearance test. Besides, defining the measurements of men's upper bodies enabled to generate the men's 3-D virtual models representing each age group's average body feature. The significant body measurement factors for men's 3-D body modeling and jumper pattern-making were stature for the height factor; chest, waist and hip circumferences for the circumference factor; waist back, hip and arm lengths and interscye front/back for the length factor; and back neck breadth for the breadth factor and armscye and scye depths for the depth factor. The men's body measurements of 30's were implemented to three experimental jumper pattern-making methods, i.e. the 1st method using the relations based on stature and chest circumference; the 2nd method using the direct body measurements; and the 3rd method adopting the maximum ease amount of given body measurements whether relations or direct measurements except the direct measurement of scye depth. A comparison among the three experimental jumpers' simulated images highlighted that the appropriate ease amount of the jumper gained higher scores in terms of the jumpers' front, side, back and sleeve parts and the total silhouettes. Therefore the 3rd experimental jumper was finally selected for the heavy industry workers.

Developing a prototype of bi-stretch pants for women in their 20s and 30s with overweight lower bodies (20~30대 하체비만형 여성을 위한 양방향 스트레치 팬츠 원형 개발)

  • Ha, Hee-Jung;Seong, Ok-Jin
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.21 no.2
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    • pp.246-260
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    • 2013
  • This research was carried out on women in their 20s and 30s who have overweight lower body. The subjects selected for this study were women a Rohrer index of 1.6 or higher, a waist circumference 78.5cm to 83.5cm, and a lower drop of at least 18cm. The aim is to propose a prototype of bi-stretch pants meeting demands for both functionality and aesthetic appeal. Various clothing patterns ease amount of the waist and hip circumferences and crotch depths and were developed. They had different crotch widths, and center back line angles. The results showed that the best pants patterns were ease 1cm to the total hip circumference. The front hip circumference was H/4-0.5cm, and the back hip circumference was H/4+1cm. The front crotch width was H/20+1cm, the back crotch width was H/10+3cm. No additional ease was given to the total waistline. The front waist circumference was W/4+0.5cm. The back waist circumference was W/4-0.5cm. The knee circumference was set at 44cm, the pant hem width was set at 36cm, and the pant length was set at 100cm-5cm. The findings of this research can be used as basic data for stretch pants that fit the abdomen, hips, and thighs for women in their 20s and 30s with overweight lower body.

A Comparative Analysis of the Draping Method in Basic Bodice (베이직 바디스 입체재단법 비교 분석)

  • Kim, Young-Mi;Jang, Jeong-Ah
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.20 no.6
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    • pp.713-721
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    • 2018
  • This study aimed to develop a draping manual for the basic bodice to be available in colleges and industries. For this, draping methods mentioned in six different textbooks were comparatively analyzed. As for the research method, draping methods were compared by using training textbook, and basic bodices designed with muslin were assessed using the 5-point Likert scale. First, the draping methods of basic bodices were comparatively analyzed. The main baselines were set as the center front line, the center back line, the bust line, and the shoulder blade line. The position of dart was suggested based on the princess line, in both the front and the back. The value of dart was classified as a fixed size with any associated excess. The length of dart was set based on the bust point and shoulder blade point or a fixed size. The amount of ease was randomly set based on the fixed size, bust circumference, waist circumference, interscye length, armholes and shoulder lines, or the worker's intuition. Second, according to the appearance evaluation of the patterns, the following patterns obtained the highest scores: A pattern 2.5cm away from the B.P point of the waist dart and shoulder dart in the frontal appearance, a pattern of 0.6~0.7cm ease for the front armhole, a pattern with an ease of 1.2cm in the bust and 0.6cm in the waist. As for back appearance, the pattern in which the point of waist dart is 2~3cm from the bust line received the highest score.

Developing a fitted torso pattern for obese males in their forties and fifties utilizing virtual fitting (3D 가상착의를 활용한 40~50대 비만남성 피티드 토르소 패턴 개발)

  • Jeong-Ah, Jang;Ui-Jung, Kwon
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.30 no.6
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    • pp.828-841
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    • 2022
  • This study aims to develop a fitted torso pattern suitable for males in their forties and fifties who are obese-a group that accounts for more than fifty percent of men in this age group-using a 3D virtual fitting program. Size Korea's 2022 data for obese males in their forties and fifties is utilized for this study. In terms of the research method, a 3D program (CLO 3D) is used to implement the target group's various body types and to apply fitted torsos that enable verification and evaluation of the pattern's fit and ease. The characteristics of fitted torso patterns for obese bodies are as follows: the front centerline is a profile line; shoulder darts are added by reflecting waist-abdominal protrusion in the front panel; and shoulder, arm, waist, and center-back darts are constructed for the back panel. For obese bodies, the minimum circumference ease amounts should be approximately 6-7cm for the chest, 6cm for the waist, and 6-7cm for the hips. Based on an evaluation of the virtual fit of the developed fitted torso pattern, the data shows that a pattern (foundation) such as this is well suited for obese body types with an average of 4.67/5 points for reverse triangular obesity, an average of 6.67/7 points for log obesity, and an average of 6.69 points for the ease amount.

A Study on the Development of Shirts Pattern for Middle Aged Men's Body Shapes (중년 남성의 체형별 셔츠원형 개발에 관한 연구)

  • Sung, Ok-Jin;Yang, Chung-Eun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.30 no.11 s.158
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    • pp.1550-1559
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to measure middle aged men's bodies around the ages of thirty-five through filly-five, whose age-group undergoes drastic changes on their body shapes. Further, body shapes are grouped based on the measurements, and pattern making methods are presented in order to effectively make up for the undesirable body features of middle-aged men. In order to develop patterns fit for middle aged men's body shapes, the regression which reflects physical characteristics was applied for the experimental shirts pattern, instead of comparative patterns which applies the same equation. For the two body types classified above(Bend-forward Type and Lean-back Type), correlation among the factors necessary for pattern design was considered and the regression was formularized accordingly. To validate the regression, the same amount of ease as in the comparative patterns was applied to the chest girth, and reasonable ease to the armhole depth and neck girth. In this way, experimental shirts patterns fit for the body types were developed. After the modification through the wearing test, the experimental shirts pattern was completed as herein.

Strengthening the Intention to Use Vehicle Tax Service Online in Indonesia

  • AMBARWATI, Rita;ASTUTI, Mudji;DIJAYA, Rohman
    • Journal of Distribution Science
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    • v.18 no.5
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    • pp.25-33
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    • 2020
  • Purpose: The use of e-Samsat services in East Java has not been significant in the amount of use of its services for tax payments as a whole. The purpose of this study is to analyze what factors East Java e-Samsat services practice and the existence of recommendations as a basis for government decisions to improve the quality of East Java e-Samsat services. Research design, data and methodology: Our model hypothesizes that three key factors determine the intention to use e-samsat platform such as: trust, awareness, ease to use. Data collection methods by distributing questionnaires and interviews. Results: The results of the study provide two findings, firstly, Trust, Ease of Use, Awareness directly or indirectly affects the Intention to Use the East Java e-Samsat service for motor vehicle taxpayers. Thus it is essential to pay attention to these three variables in terms of clarity, reliability, and timeliness as a recommendation to improve the quality of East Java e-Samsat services.. Conclusions: The results of this study can be applied and developed in other countries besides Indonesia with the same cultural patterns. Several variables have been measured in previous studies in several Asian continent countries.

Effects of Specimen Preparation Method and Contact Resistance on the Formation of Anodizing Films on Aluminum Alloys (시편의 준비 방법 및 접촉저항이 알루미늄 합금의 아노다이징 피막 형성에 미치는 영향)

  • Moon, Sungmo
    • Journal of the Korean institute of surface engineering
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    • v.53 no.1
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    • pp.29-35
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    • 2020
  • In this study, five different specimen preparation methods were introduced and their advantages and disadvantages were presented. One of them, an epoxy mounting method has advantages of constant exposure area, ease of surface preparation without touching the specimen surface during polishing or cleaning, use of small amount of material and ease of specimen reuse by polishing or etching. However, in order to eliminate unexpected errors resulting from preferable reaction at the specimen/epoxy interface and contact resistance between the specimen and copper conducting line for electrical connection, it is recommended to cover the wall side of the specimen with porous anodic oxide films and to remain the contact resistance lower than 1 ohm. The increased contact resistance between the specimen and Cu conducting line appeared to result in increases of anodizing voltage and solution temperature during anodizing by which thickness and hardness of anodizing film on Al2024 alloy were drastically decreased and color of the films became more brightened.

A Study on the Evaluation of Jacket Pattern for Working Women (직장여성을 위한 재킷의 착의 평가방법에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Yeong-Hui;Kim, Hye-Gyeong;Seo, Chu-Yeon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.21 no.8
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    • pp.1365-1375
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    • 1997
  • Jacket is the basic formal dress for working women, and one of the most frequently worn by them. It has, however, some problems caused by movement, depending on how well it fits. To improve fitness of jacket, this study compared and evaluated the state of fitness objectively by employing a numerical system in relation with clothing and body. We made three experimental jackets based on the previous jacket patterns and used Moire Photo-graphy to measure the amounts of space between clothes and body from the overlap cross section map. The results obtained from this study were summarized as follows; 1. According to the measurement result of the pattern by using the One-dimension measurement, the amount of ease in girth item for pattern B was larger than the other two patterns. The amounts of space of each part showed the difference of the positions of princess lines, and the different sizes of the darts. 2. From the result of Moire Photography, the wearing shapes of the experimental jackets were influenced by the characteristics of somatotype. In addition, we could analyze the differences of the patterns with Moire Photography. 3. The amounts of space for waist part was larger than those for other parts. Pattern B scored the largest amount of space for all parts compared with pattern A and C. 4. For only waist part, there existed a significant difference in the average amount of space for the three patterns.

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