• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.445-454
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• 2008

The existing baseline taping methods were not applicable sometimes according to the body shape of dress form and they were often dependent on the personal ability and knowledge of modelist. It is very important to suggest the standardized baseline taping method which is applicable to various dress forms which have different body size and shape. It helps to communicate about clothing design and patternmaking between designer and manufacturer, and it also makes students to understand draping easily. So this study was performed to suggest the standardized baseline taping method which is easier and has consistency of taping result regardless of body shape of dress form. First, the existing 7 baseline taping methods were compared with 3 kinds of dress form which are reflecting different body shape and different age. Especially the location of baselines and landmarks which are important for draping are analyzed. Second, the new baseline taping method was developed with reference to the existing baseline taping methods, the standard body measurements of 2004 Size Korea and flat patternmaking. The standardized method for 12 landmarks and 11 baseline was suggested. Third, the appraisal group has performed baseline taping with both the existing method and new method on 2 kinds of dress form. The new method was superior to the existing method in uniformity of taping results as well as the degree of difficulty of taping. Development of the standardized baseline taping method which is applicable to various dress forms would make draping easier and be useful for both apparel industry and academia.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.451-459
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• 2022

This study aimed to develop a a custom-made dress form for draping using a live model's 3D body scan obtained from an entry-level 3D handheld scanners, 3D modeling software and 3D printing technology. A female subject was recruited whose body size fell under the normal (N) body shape criteria suggested by KS K 0051. First, the handheld scanner reduced the length of the legs in scanning, but most of the scanning operations between the neck and crotch levels were conducted accurately. Therefore, this study was designed to develop a torso dress form. The full body 3D scan was edited into a torso shape using ZBrush® software. Using Rhinoceros^® and Materialise's Magics software, a 3D body scan was modeled so that the user could fit two types of mannequin stands (one with a neck fixation from above and one with an insert from below) to the dress form. The body scan was divided into 9 pieces to fit the printable size of the Stratasys 3D printer Fortus 250mc, and the cross-sectional distance from the center to the periphery was downsized by 2 mm. After outputting the dress form scan file with a 3D printer, the dress form was manufactured by the first covering it with a 4 oz nonwoven pad and the second covering with a single jersey material.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.118-119
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• 2005

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.373-381
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• 1996

Draping design system organized by European about 13C has been developed greatly for a long while, but for the purpose of the practical use the Dress form similar to human body has been needed. In order to make three-dimensional effect as fitting Muslin ot the Dress form. the Basic lien has to be established in Muslin and Dress form each. At this time, Shoulder-blade level is indicated from various angles : measure down 10cm from the back neck point, a quarter of the back neck point to the waist lie, the half-way point between neckline and bust line, measure down 41 inches from the back neck line, measure down 3 inches from the top edge of the muslin at center back and cross mark for neck line, and so forth. This study established the Basic line through the two ways of them (B.N.P∼B.L/2, B.N.P∼W.L/4), did tight fitting to the 5 kinds of Dress forms which ar normal type in the drop value(the difference between hip circumference and bust circumference), and acquired Basic Pattern. After the experiment, fitness are throughly investigate by statistical analysis of measurements. As a result, this study finds out that fit is proper when shoulder blade level is situated on a fourth of the back neck point to the waist line and a quarter point between back neck point and waist line, and waist dart is situated on the back center line and princess line.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.105-113
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to develop the pattern of scuba diving suits for local men in their thirties by using 3D body-scanned data. It is widely acknowledged that draping method is more suitable than flat pattern for body shape as most scuba diving suits in the market are designed to fit the body tightly in a single piece with sleeves and legs. A dummy for this study was made based on men's standard clothing sizes in 30's which was derived from data of 2004 Size Korea. Accordingly, the basic body block was built upon through draping method. Next, a scuba diving suit was made from neoprene, followed by fit and the clothing pressure tests in order to evaluate the diving suit's functionality and comfort. The results of the fit test had high points of 4.33 in majority parts except armhole and crotch ones. In comparison of clothing pressure between wearer and dummy, the clothing pressure of wearer was indicated relatively low in most parts other than armhole and knee, resulting from cushion function of skin and muscle and high stretch of fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.4
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• pp.61-76
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• 2016

The importance of environment has come into focus recently, and this has led to increased attention on zero waste fashion design as a method to minimize waste from the production stage of fashion goods. The purpose of this study was to analyze the development method types and the characteristics of zero waste fashion design in order to study the eco-friendly meanings of zero waste fashion design, as well as its meaning as creative design development methods. Through the case analysis of recent designs, the design types of zero waste fashion design were largely classified into cut and sew, folding, draping, and non-woven types, and they were classified again according to the characteristics of production process. According to the result of analyzing fashion design development methods of zero waste fashion designs based on the process of completing design, they were classified into pattern making, computer programming, draping, assembling of the unit, and non-woven moulding methods, and the aspect of combined use rather than utilization of one method appeared. Formative characteristics of zero waste fashion design included decorative beauty, formative beauty, and transformable beauty and its design characteristics were fortuity and unexpected properties, breaking stereotypes, structural flexibility and futuristic innovation.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.53-71
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• 2023

Dressmaking is a high value-added sector of the fashion industry in which the individuality and skills of designers play a prominent role. The appropriate use of the draping and the flat pattern techniques in the dressmaking process also play an important part in perfecting the finished product. The purpose of this study was to improve the understanding of dress design and identify a pattern production technique to enhence efficiency in each of the three elements of the dress manufactureing process. For this purpose, analysis of the design of 1,389 wedding dress photographs published in Wedding 21, Korea's leading wedding magazine, during 2019 and 2020 was conducted. This analysis identified 15 bodice designs and 11 sleeve designs based on neckline and eight skirts based on silhouette which were ranked by frequency distribution. Patterns for the design of samples were then developed according to the highest combined frequency distribution of these three elements. Eight samples were finally produced to test the the efficiency of the patternmaking techniques empolyed and the selected designs. The findings from this study have practical applications, notably in improving the efficiency of pattern production techniques that will facilitate further growth in the dressmaking industry.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.497-508
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• 2020

The paradigm focusing on learner-centered classes and the introduction of flipped learning through the connection between online and offline have been increasing. This study proved the educational effect by applying flipped learning to the basic draping course within the fashion practical course and revealed the implications for flipped learning from the instructor's perspective. The research methods are theatrical research and model development research in order to guide basic drape utilizing flipped learning. The study results revealed that learners' satisfaction was very high about the basic draping course combined with flipped learning, and it showed that students were very satisfied with the learning-related video because it can compensate for the decrease in education efficiency according to the number of attendees and improve education. Improvements shall include technical and content supplementation of video learning materials and presentation of documented learning materials, in addition to video materials. From the instructor's perspective, time needs to be set aside for video shooting and editing, a view of the composition of education from the learner's perspective, and an in-depth understanding of the instructor's curriculum for flipped learning design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.849-865
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• 2009

This research is a study of fashion design that applied formative features of formal beauty of architecture into clothing design; we focused on Gaudi's architectural style as well as Art Nouveau style that became popular from the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20th century. We noted that in general the simple and flat features of cloth impose a limitation on the expression of formal features in clothing design, but a unique diversity of designs can be achieved, evoking a sense of freshness by an ideal combination of flat patterns and draping. The aim of this research is to present a possibility of extending the sphere of design expression by creating three-dimensional clothes with pattern-cutting skills and applications of three-dimensional patterns as well as flat patterns found in Gaudi's works of architecture that are distinguished in curvaceousness and formal beauty. As for the research method, we reviewed previous studies by making a close review of books, papers, the pictures and web sites related to this topic. We made our clothes on the basis of this theoretical consideration. We found the following points. First, by presenting a work of fashion inspired by architectural designs, we realized that formal beauty in architect can become a motive for clothing design in a broad scale by noting the formal images, decoration details, and formative features of architectural works. Second, the characteristic lines of Gaudi's architecture are suitable to be adapted for expressing the detailed lines of decoration in clothes. Third, we can express formative beauty in clothes by highlighting the variation of shapes and lines through various attempts of change in background pattern, even though there is a limitation in the availability of cloth material because we must choose pieces of cloth with right texture and thickness that can be cut and sewn appropriately to express formative beauty. Fourth, we confirmed that it was possible to create unique formative designs by a creative application of both flat and three-dimensional cutting.

• Composites Research
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.29-35
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• 2003

In this paper. various tow parameters such as equivalent tow thickness, amplitude of longitudinal tow and tow intervals were investigated and compared with each other by using microscopic observation to find out the exact deformation patterns between both directions of the fabric structure(Longitudinal and Transverse Directions). And those observation results were compared with bias extension. biaxial tests results with dry fabric which has the same tow structure as the draped helmet materials and also compared with prepreg specimen which is cured by autoclave moulding without vacuum and pressure condition. Specimens for the observation were taken from draped helmet which is made of fabric composite(Five Harness Satin Weave). From the observation results, it was found that there are different deformation pattern between tow directions and effect of geometric condition on the deformation of the fabric materials during draping process was verified.