• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.140-151
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• 2013

In order to investigate the mechanical properties of working clothes materials considering industrial settings, the test weaving materials were compared with the existing materials depending on the season. The material design of the test fabrics were changed through fineness, composition, density of materials then subsequently treated with functional finish. As a result of evaluation of the forms according to KES-FB system, Koshi was deduced, and Numeri and Fukurami were increased. Thereby, the test weaving materials became flexible, surface became smoother, elasticity and volume characteristics indicated to have been improved. Consequently, the THV value of working clothes materials for test weaving was increased compared to existing materials which indicated improved result of the total hand value. Specially, the winter cloth material indicated improved drape characteristics and dimensional characteristics, showed improved liveliness as being compressed softly.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.52-67
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• 1999

A Study on the Drapery Presented in Costume The purpose of this study is to find esthetic characteristic of a drapery costume throughout Greece costume and modern fashion. For this purpose, documentary studies were proceed. And photos of the drapery costume were analyzed. Drape is the hang or fall of fabric when made into a garment is an important quality to consider indesigning. Fabric falling in folds in the garment as seen on statues of ancient Greece ; most outstanding modern versions made by designer Gres and Vionnet. Greek costume was in drapery types mostly and a feature created the vest esthetic effert on simplicity with ornament of drapery. Grecian were expressed pure beauty and natural beauty throughout their drapery costume. Madame Gres is widely considered one of the most talented greece for inspiration of the couture, ranked by many with Vionnet. They shows in their mastery of Greek draping -el-egance and simplicity- And also, they always implicity emphasized the relationship between clothing and the female body. Therefore drapery costume admired beauty of pure human body Clothing is expressed which wanted to get the nature and human, search for the losed nature of modern men. In conclusion, the characteristic of drapery costume from ancient greece to modern, timeless concerned human\`s lives and recurring humanity.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.36-51
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• 2012

Quilting, a technique to join two or more layers of fabrics, has long been used in the textile and fashion sectors. To evaluate dimensional effect of quilting that changes according to the characteristics of fabrics, 3D scanning method is employed in this study. Goal of this study is to interpret how fabric's composition, stiffness, thickness, and weight affect the appearance when quilted fabrics are used in a garment. Surface reconstruction method based on 3D scanning is used as a research method to evaluate the changing appearance depending on the material properties quantitatively with the quilting method. Besides, exemplary virtual clothing is realized through a virtual quilting method in 3D digital clothing system based on the properties of fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.61-66
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• 1982

Succeeding to Report 1, to compare folded curtain fabrics with curtain fabrics, the sound pressure level (SPL) of folded curtain fabrics were measured by sound level meter. Transmission coefficient was calculated by the ratio of incidence sound intensity and transmission sound intensity. The relationship between these values and factors (drape coefficient, porosity) relating to the structure of curtain fabrics were investigated experimentally. The following results were obtained: 1. The transmission coefficient by ratio of sound pressure level was lower than that by ratio of sound intensity. 2. In folded curtain fabrics, difference of SPL was smaller and transmission coefficient generally decreased. 3. The relation between the porosity and transmission coefficient of curtain fabrics is given as plus correlation.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제41권3호
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• pp.222-227
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• 1999

The weavability and bleaching of ramie/silk mixture fabrics were examined. When silk fiber was used as warp or weft in the mixture fabrics, the weaving properties became higher than that of ramile fabrics. Especially, the highest weavabiliy of mixture fabrics was obtained when used as warp silk fiber. The whiteness of ramie and tussah fiber treated with hydrogen peroxide, bleaching agent. was increased up to about 80% without significant changes of tenacity and elongation. As the increase of bleaching agent and treatment time, the whiteness of mixture fabrics was increased and the yellowness was decreased. Also, as the whiteness of mixture fabrics increased, the drape stiffness in warp direction was decreased but crease recovery was increased.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.94-114
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• 2001

Men's Po of (he Chosun period became simple and stable in shape as the nation moved from its early to late period. Re lines of the external structure of the clothing shows the beauty of the garment. Re lines generally derive their beauty from curved lines, gradually replacing the straight lines of the earlier part of the Chosun period. The linear beauty of the external structure of men's Po is found in the outline and silhouette. Generally in the early Chosun period it could be seen that H-shaped silhouettes, narrowed strips and flexible drapes descending to the ankles were still in use from the period of the Koryo dynasty And in the 17th century, or the mid Chosun period, considerable numbers of H-shaped drapes with wide sleeves and side Moo were seen. At the beginning of the 18th century, voluminous A-shaped outlines appeared. From the late Chosun period through the mid and late Chosun period, or the 18th and 19th centuries, the from silhouette changed from voluminous A-shapes to narrower H-shapes. The beauty of the lines of the external structure of men's Po is due to its harmonising with the straight body lines of men. The straight Git of the early Chosun period harmonises beautifully with the straight Baerae and Doryun and the curved Git of the later Chosun period similarly harmonises with the curved Baerae and Doryun lines. The shape of men's Po has a balance betweon right and left, centering around the Sup lines. The sleeves have the balanced beauty of vertical lines. Git and Sup have beauty through the balance of oblique and straight lines while Baerae and Doryun have similar balances through curves. Jikrung, Chulik, Dapho's side Moo, coat strings, Doryun and sleeves drape, all of which are manufactured by means of plane cutting, Pow together beautifully. Re Git, Sup, and the silhouette and drape of men's Po, which are also manufactured through plane cutting, make the wearer look tall and at the same time express the beauty of mature manhood. The linear beauty shown in men's Po during the Chosun Period have beauty through harmonizing with straight and curved lines, beauty balance, beauty of flow, beutity of emphasis and beauty of optical illusion.

• 한국콘크리트학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국콘크리트학회 2010년도 춘계 학술대회 제22권1호
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• pp.39-40
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• 2010

건물이 대형화 고층화되어 감에 따라서 층고를 절감시킴과 동시에 장스팬을 구현할 수 있는 부재에 대한 요구가 늘어가고 있다. 비록 많은 연구자에 의해서 층고절감과 장스팬에 대한 요구를 만족시키기 위한 연구가 진행되고 있지만, 여전히 두 가지 요구사항을 동시에 만족시키는 효율적인 시스템이 부족한 실정이다. 본 연구에서 제안하는 파형웨브를 가진 프리스트레스 합성보는 시공성과 구조적인 성능을 동시에 향상시킬 수 있다. 시공과정에서 발생할 수 있는 비대칭 하중에 상대적으로 작은 부재를 가지고 강한 저항성을 발휘하여 시공성을 높일 수 있으며, 또한 동바리와 서포트 등의 가설부재를 줄임으로써 경제성도 확보할 수 있다. 파형웨브는 아코디언효과를 만들기 때문에 프리스트레스의 도입효율이 좋아져 더 큰 상향치올림를 유발시켜 부재의 처짐을 줄일 수 있다. 5개의 실험체를 제작하여 제안한 합성보의 효율성을 검토하였는데 그 주요한 변수로는 웨브와 플렌지에 용접된 형태와 drape point의 개수이다. 실험을 통하여 제안한 프리스트레스 합성보가 기존에 프리스트레스를 도입하지 않은 합성보 보다 큰 휨강성과 휨강도를 발휘한다는 것을 증명하였다.

• 복식
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• 제63권4호
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• pp.84-100
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• 2013

Ancient Greece was a patriarchal society that distinguished gender roles between men and women. Although their costumes were composed of simple rectangular fabric without any technical complications in itself, the Greeks did try to express gender differences in their clothing. The final look of the Greek costume was dependent on the way the cloth draped onto its wearer as well as the wearer's identity. Greeks costume could just be seen as a rectangular fabric when it was not draped on a person's body. The purpose of this study is to examine how the gender differences were expressed in the ancient Greek drapery costume, which was made by using a completely different technical process, compared with the modern tailored costume. There are four elements of the costume that give the costume its formative shape, which are the wearer's body, the rectangular fabric (material as the first formative costume), the way the fabric is draped, and the final appearance as the second formative costume (the relationship between the wearer's body and the costume) and this study analyzes these elements individually. It is intended to analyze the gender characteristics and how each element appears in a different way from the perspective of Structuralism, an analytical method that considers a phenomenon as a total sum of the elements. Literature research was conducted and representative sculpture, painting and pottery, were used between the Archaic Period (B.C. 800~500) and the Classical Period (B.C. 500~323). The results show that the gender differences appear in each formative element of costume: First, the body was distinguished by the ancient Greek custom. The man's nudity was accepted while the woman's body was concealed. Second, in regards to the first formative costume, which was the rectangular fabric, men's were made with thick high quality wool because their involvement in outdoor activities meant that they needed clothes to stay warm, while the women wore clothes made of thin wool or hemp cloth, because their most of their activities were at home. Third, the way to drape the fabric shows the gender differences by changing the length of the clothing and its design ; men's short khiton was practical for big movement and at the same time the clothing exposed the man's body. The woman's doric khiton diversified its decoration by the size of the apotigma and by using the belt. Finally the second formative costume reflected the Greeks' social distinction between a man's body and a woman's body. The man's costume naturally exposed the man's body. On the other hand, the woman's long costume has a variety of shapes on the ground, that concealed her lower body, while the ornamental function was more accentuated than the man's costume. The gender differences expressed in Greek costume fundamentally reflected the point of view of the male and female body and their social roles in society.

• 한국정보과학회논문지:소프트웨어및응용
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• 제32권3호
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• pp.181-191
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• 2005

본 논문에서는 컴퓨터그래픽으로 구현된 인체에 착용되는 의류의 시뮬레이션을 위한 수치해석알고리즘 및 소프트웨어 개발을 수행하였다. 개발된 알고리즘은 수학적으로 elliptical 흑은 비순차적인 성질을 가지는 두 개의 켤레조화함수(conjugate harmonic functions)들을 사용하여, 지나간 시간단계(time step)에서의 견과에 의존하지 않고 매 순간의 역학적 균형만으로 의류에 형성되는 주름의 형태를 표현한다. Global-local 해석기법을 채택하여 global 스케일에서의 전체적인 변형과 local 스케일에서의 부분적인 변형으로 나누었으며, 이 두 가지 스케일에서의 해석 결과가 선형적으로 중첩될 수 있음을 가정하였다. Global 해석에서는 신체 각 부위의 회전이나 평행이동, 뒤틀림 등의 전반적인 변형에 따른 인체와의 접촉점의 변화와 응력을 고려하였다. Local 해석에서는 국소적인 주름의 형상을 얻기 위해 주름의 진폭등고선과 주름의 방향 사이의 직교성을 가정하여 단순화 시켰다. 본 제안 방법은 불연속적으로 변화하는 두 개의 서로 다른 자세에 대해서도 중간단계 해석을 위한 시간증분의 삽입이 불필요하며, 기존의 방식에서 주로 사용되는 시간적분의 방법을 채택하지 않으므로 연산 시간의 절감과 안정성의 향상이 이루어졌다. 임의의 두 자세 사이의 연속 동작을 시뮬레이션 함에 있어서도 두 정지 자세 사이의 움직임을 보간법으로 구현하여 연속적인 의류의 변형을 구현할 수 있었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.169-179
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• 1988

In the part 1, relations were found between fundmental mechanical properties and primary hand values, performance of Korean women's summer fabrics. In this paper, in order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the women's fall & winter fabrics were measured by KES-F system. Sorts of 90 commercial fabrics for women's fall & winter clothes were classfied into 39 silk and 51 polyester fabrics according to meterials. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the hand values and the mechanical properties and concerning to formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior were investigated. Furthermore, there mechanical properties as well as their hand values were discussed in comparison with those values for kimono fabrics. The main results are summarized as follows; 1. The shape of silk fabrics in formation for weared clothes show a box-shaped silhouette. Polyester fabrics has a easy to shape-less and make a silhouette which goes along with the body. 2. Silk fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have ${\pm}1\sigma$ range of bending, shearing, surface properties and thickness as compared with kimono fabrics. 3. A wrinkle recovery and drapability of silk fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes are inferior to kimono fabrics. On the other hand, the fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have conical-shaped silhouette based on higher bending rigidity. 4. Except for flexibility with soft feeling, a primary factor of mechanical properties contributes to the hand values of fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes having no concern with materials were same as the women's summer fabrics. 5. As for the hand values of fabrics for Korean folk clothes, stiffness, anti-drape stiffness are larger than those of kimono fabric and stiffness, anti-drape stiffness, crispness of fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have smaller values as compared with Korean women's summer fabrics.