• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.140-151
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• 2013

In order to investigate the mechanical properties of working clothes materials considering industrial settings, the test weaving materials were compared with the existing materials depending on the season. The material design of the test fabrics were changed through fineness, composition, density of materials then subsequently treated with functional finish. As a result of evaluation of the forms according to KES-FB system, Koshi was deduced, and Numeri and Fukurami were increased. Thereby, the test weaving materials became flexible, surface became smoother, elasticity and volume characteristics indicated to have been improved. Consequently, the THV value of working clothes materials for test weaving was increased compared to existing materials which indicated improved result of the total hand value. Specially, the winter cloth material indicated improved drape characteristics and dimensional characteristics, showed improved liveliness as being compressed softly.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.52-67
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• 1999

A Study on the Drapery Presented in Costume The purpose of this study is to find esthetic characteristic of a drapery costume throughout Greece costume and modern fashion. For this purpose, documentary studies were proceed. And photos of the drapery costume were analyzed. Drape is the hang or fall of fabric when made into a garment is an important quality to consider indesigning. Fabric falling in folds in the garment as seen on statues of ancient Greece ; most outstanding modern versions made by designer Gres and Vionnet. Greek costume was in drapery types mostly and a feature created the vest esthetic effert on simplicity with ornament of drapery. Grecian were expressed pure beauty and natural beauty throughout their drapery costume. Madame Gres is widely considered one of the most talented greece for inspiration of the couture, ranked by many with Vionnet. They shows in their mastery of Greek draping -el-egance and simplicity- And also, they always implicity emphasized the relationship between clothing and the female body. Therefore drapery costume admired beauty of pure human body Clothing is expressed which wanted to get the nature and human, search for the losed nature of modern men. In conclusion, the characteristic of drapery costume from ancient greece to modern, timeless concerned human\`s lives and recurring humanity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.36-51
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• 2012

Quilting, a technique to join two or more layers of fabrics, has long been used in the textile and fashion sectors. To evaluate dimensional effect of quilting that changes according to the characteristics of fabrics, 3D scanning method is employed in this study. Goal of this study is to interpret how fabric's composition, stiffness, thickness, and weight affect the appearance when quilted fabrics are used in a garment. Surface reconstruction method based on 3D scanning is used as a research method to evaluate the changing appearance depending on the material properties quantitatively with the quilting method. Besides, exemplary virtual clothing is realized through a virtual quilting method in 3D digital clothing system based on the properties of fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.61-66
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• 1982

Succeeding to Report 1, to compare folded curtain fabrics with curtain fabrics, the sound pressure level (SPL) of folded curtain fabrics were measured by sound level meter. Transmission coefficient was calculated by the ratio of incidence sound intensity and transmission sound intensity. The relationship between these values and factors (drape coefficient, porosity) relating to the structure of curtain fabrics were investigated experimentally. The following results were obtained: 1. The transmission coefficient by ratio of sound pressure level was lower than that by ratio of sound intensity. 2. In folded curtain fabrics, difference of SPL was smaller and transmission coefficient generally decreased. 3. The relation between the porosity and transmission coefficient of curtain fabrics is given as plus correlation.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.222-227
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• 1999

The weavability and bleaching of ramie/silk mixture fabrics were examined. When silk fiber was used as warp or weft in the mixture fabrics, the weaving properties became higher than that of ramile fabrics. Especially, the highest weavabiliy of mixture fabrics was obtained when used as warp silk fiber. The whiteness of ramie and tussah fiber treated with hydrogen peroxide, bleaching agent. was increased up to about 80% without significant changes of tenacity and elongation. As the increase of bleaching agent and treatment time, the whiteness of mixture fabrics was increased and the yellowness was decreased. Also, as the whiteness of mixture fabrics increased, the drape stiffness in warp direction was decreased but crease recovery was increased.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.94-114
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• 2001

Men's Po of (he Chosun period became simple and stable in shape as the nation moved from its early to late period. Re lines of the external structure of the clothing shows the beauty of the garment. Re lines generally derive their beauty from curved lines, gradually replacing the straight lines of the earlier part of the Chosun period. The linear beauty of the external structure of men's Po is found in the outline and silhouette. Generally in the early Chosun period it could be seen that H-shaped silhouettes, narrowed strips and flexible drapes descending to the ankles were still in use from the period of the Koryo dynasty And in the 17th century, or the mid Chosun period, considerable numbers of H-shaped drapes with wide sleeves and side Moo were seen. At the beginning of the 18th century, voluminous A-shaped outlines appeared. From the late Chosun period through the mid and late Chosun period, or the 18th and 19th centuries, the from silhouette changed from voluminous A-shapes to narrower H-shapes. The beauty of the lines of the external structure of men's Po is due to its harmonising with the straight body lines of men. The straight Git of the early Chosun period harmonises beautifully with the straight Baerae and Doryun and the curved Git of the later Chosun period similarly harmonises with the curved Baerae and Doryun lines. The shape of men's Po has a balance betweon right and left, centering around the Sup lines. The sleeves have the balanced beauty of vertical lines. Git and Sup have beauty through the balance of oblique and straight lines while Baerae and Doryun have similar balances through curves. Jikrung, Chulik, Dapho's side Moo, coat strings, Doryun and sleeves drape, all of which are manufactured by means of plane cutting, Pow together beautifully. Re Git, Sup, and the silhouette and drape of men's Po, which are also manufactured through plane cutting, make the wearer look tall and at the same time express the beauty of mature manhood. The linear beauty shown in men's Po during the Chosun Period have beauty through harmonizing with straight and curved lines, beauty balance, beauty of flow, beutity of emphasis and beauty of optical illusion.

• Proceedings of the Korea Concrete Institute Conference
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• 2010.05a
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• pp.39-40
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• 2010

The demands for longer span and reduction of story height have greatly increased as building structures become much larger and higher in recent years. Although the development of flexural members for reducing story height or making long span has been studied by many researchers and engineers, there is still a lack of efficient systems that meet these two demands simultaneously. This study aimed at developing a new composite beam system suitable for long span and reduction of story height, and proposed a prestressed composite beam with corrugated web. It has great resistance against non-symmetric construction load due to its strong out-of-plane shear strength with relatively small member height as well as good constructability and economic efficiency by removing/minimizing form work. The corrugated webs also make accordion effect introducing larger effective prestressing force to top and bottom flanges, which causes larger upward camber reducing the member deflection. Five full-scale specimens with key test parameters, which are web sectional shapes and number of drape points, were tested to understand their flexural behavior and to verify the performance of the proposed method. The experimental test results showed that the proposed prestressed composite beam had greater flexural strength and stiffness than the ordinary non-prestressed composite beam.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.84-100
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• 2013

Ancient Greece was a patriarchal society that distinguished gender roles between men and women. Although their costumes were composed of simple rectangular fabric without any technical complications in itself, the Greeks did try to express gender differences in their clothing. The final look of the Greek costume was dependent on the way the cloth draped onto its wearer as well as the wearer's identity. Greeks costume could just be seen as a rectangular fabric when it was not draped on a person's body. The purpose of this study is to examine how the gender differences were expressed in the ancient Greek drapery costume, which was made by using a completely different technical process, compared with the modern tailored costume. There are four elements of the costume that give the costume its formative shape, which are the wearer's body, the rectangular fabric (material as the first formative costume), the way the fabric is draped, and the final appearance as the second formative costume (the relationship between the wearer's body and the costume) and this study analyzes these elements individually. It is intended to analyze the gender characteristics and how each element appears in a different way from the perspective of Structuralism, an analytical method that considers a phenomenon as a total sum of the elements. Literature research was conducted and representative sculpture, painting and pottery, were used between the Archaic Period (B.C. 800~500) and the Classical Period (B.C. 500~323). The results show that the gender differences appear in each formative element of costume: First, the body was distinguished by the ancient Greek custom. The man's nudity was accepted while the woman's body was concealed. Second, in regards to the first formative costume, which was the rectangular fabric, men's were made with thick high quality wool because their involvement in outdoor activities meant that they needed clothes to stay warm, while the women wore clothes made of thin wool or hemp cloth, because their most of their activities were at home. Third, the way to drape the fabric shows the gender differences by changing the length of the clothing and its design ; men's short khiton was practical for big movement and at the same time the clothing exposed the man's body. The woman's doric khiton diversified its decoration by the size of the apotigma and by using the belt. Finally the second formative costume reflected the Greeks' social distinction between a man's body and a woman's body. The man's costume naturally exposed the man's body. On the other hand, the woman's long costume has a variety of shapes on the ground, that concealed her lower body, while the ornamental function was more accentuated than the man's costume. The gender differences expressed in Greek costume fundamentally reflected the point of view of the male and female body and their social roles in society.

• Journal of KIISE:Software and Applications
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.181-191
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• 2005

This article describes a simplified mathematical model and the relevant numerical algorithm to simulate the draped cloth on virtual human body. The proposed algorithm incorporates an elliptical, or non-consecutive, method to simulate the cloth wrinkles on moving bodies without resorting to the result of the past time-steps of drape simulation. A global-local analysis technique was employed to decompose the drape of cloths into the global deformation and the local wrinkles that will be superposed linearly The global deformation is determined directly by the rotation and the translation of body parts to generate a wrinkle-free yet globally deformed shape of cloth. The local wrinkles are calculated by solving simple elliptical equations based on the orthogonality between conjugate harmonic functions representing the wrinkle amplitude and the direction of wrinkles. The proposed method requires no interpolative time frames even for discontinuous body postures. Standing away from the incremental approach of time integration in conventional methods, the proposed method yields a remarkable reduction of CPU time and an enhanced stability. Also, the transient motion of cloth could be achieved by interpolating between the deformations corresponding to each static posture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.2 s.27
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• pp.169-179
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• 1988

In the part 1, relations were found between fundmental mechanical properties and primary hand values, performance of Korean women's summer fabrics. In this paper, in order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the women's fall & winter fabrics were measured by KES-F system. Sorts of 90 commercial fabrics for women's fall & winter clothes were classfied into 39 silk and 51 polyester fabrics according to meterials. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the hand values and the mechanical properties and concerning to formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior were investigated. Furthermore, there mechanical properties as well as their hand values were discussed in comparison with those values for kimono fabrics. The main results are summarized as follows; 1. The shape of silk fabrics in formation for weared clothes show a box-shaped silhouette. Polyester fabrics has a easy to shape-less and make a silhouette which goes along with the body. 2. Silk fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have ${\pm}1\sigma$ range of bending, shearing, surface properties and thickness as compared with kimono fabrics. 3. A wrinkle recovery and drapability of silk fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes are inferior to kimono fabrics. On the other hand, the fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have conical-shaped silhouette based on higher bending rigidity. 4. Except for flexibility with soft feeling, a primary factor of mechanical properties contributes to the hand values of fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes having no concern with materials were same as the women's summer fabrics. 5. As for the hand values of fabrics for Korean folk clothes, stiffness, anti-drape stiffness are larger than those of kimono fabric and stiffness, anti-drape stiffness, crispness of fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have smaller values as compared with Korean women's summer fabrics.