• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.675-683
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• 2002

The purposes of the study were to analyze the changes in formal attires and decorative features of middle age Korean women during the last half of 20th century and to find out any significant differences in formal attires according to periods. The study was a documentary research, and data were collected from 344 family wedding photographs by convenient sampling. The statistics used were content analysis, frequency and a time series analysis, and the results were as follows : 1. Four schematic clusters of formal attires were categorized according to skirt(chima) length and width, jacket(jogori) length, motifs and decorative features; simple classic, decorative classic, fashionable, and extravagant fashionable. Simple classic attires were popular until 1960s, the decorative classics were appeared from late 1960s to 1970s, fashionable attires were introduced from the late 1970s and the attires became more luxurious and extravagant until 2000. 2. Color symbolism in couples mothers'attires according to the couples gender - pink or red for the bride's mother and blue or green for groom's mother - was introduced from the late 1970s, and reached the maximum level by the early 1980s but slowly disappeared after the late 1980s. 3. The complete fashion cycle did not exist in the formal attires'change, however, since the Period of data were ranged from 1943 to 2000, the 57 years period may not long enough to measure a complete fashion cycle.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.845-858
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to identify the association of military looks with fascist aesthetics and to infer various aesthetic values of fascism expressed in military looks. The research method is documentary studies through the literature and academic papers, and examined masters' and doctors' theses, domestic and overseas books and fashion magazines, photographs and materials collected from the Internet. The facism expressed in military looks is as follows: First, nationalism, reflecting the current ideology of rebellion, appeals to the original national sentiment of the masses. Second, temptation implies that fascism tempts the mass using the nature of charisma rather than by force and, by doing so, accumulates mighty power without military force. Third, mythology is utilizing images and symbols of great appeal to people for absolute power beyond the concept of time. In order to express power for the effusion of emotional energy through the vision for realities and the magical power of images. Fourth, barbarism is always harbored in the conflict and confrontation of interests among ideas, economies, religions and classes on the other side of contemporary civilized society.

• Psychoanalysis
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.69-75
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• 2017

This paper interprets the work of Hans Bellmer, who took pictures after making a doll and distorting its form, and Diane Arbus, who took documentary photographs of unusual and marginalized people, as uncanny anxiety referred to by Freud. Through these two photographers' works, this paper examined how anxiety was used as an aesthetic strategy, and discussed the uncanny as an aesthetic experience. Uncanny refers to the phenomenon of familiar things being repressed and returning to their original place, or the phenomenon of familiarity being alienated due to repression. The aesthetic strategy of uncanny is used to bring a blind spot in reality that can be easily missed with an ordinary vision into the fore, by allowing for the slight shock to an appreciator. The ultimate goal of uncanny aesthetics is to promote both inner and external changes as well as to expand the scope of imagination, through freely crossing the borders between consciousness and unconsciousness, sympathy and antipathy, and reality and fiction.

• The Korean Journal of Archival Studies
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• no.79
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• pp.471-513
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• 2024

The monthly news and culture magazine, 'Sasanggye,' established by Jang Jun-ha from 1953 to 1970, served as a platform for government criticism and intellectual representation. The magazine created photographic-essays covering a variety of topics and utilized images as a visually impactful tool with news value. This paper aims to critically examine the photographic-essays within 'Sasanggye' as archival records, shedding light on their intrinsic value. Before delving into this assessment, the paper thoroughly explores the developmental process and characteristics of these photographic-essays. And based on the content divisions within the main text, the paper categorized the themes captured in the photographic essays into politics, economics, society, culture, and miscellaneous topics. It then introduced representative photographicessays. From an archival perspective, looking at photographs involves elucidating that photographs carry meanings beyond mere data. The photographic essays in 'Sasanggye' serve as photographic records providing evidence of 1960s Korean society and encapsulating crucial visual information. Furthermore, the photographic essays in 'Sasanggye' hold a historical significance in the aspect of Korean magazine documentary photography. The photo-essays in 'Sasanggye' carry worth in the history of photography and encompass evidential and informational values as photographic records.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.11 s.158
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• pp.1560-1571
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze relations between digital characteristics and formative features of fashion design in digital era, to find out the best way to make desirable clothes in the future affected by digital characteristics. The methods of this study are documentary research of previous studies and case study. For the study of formative features of fashion design, 100 kinds of pictures have been selected from photographs in fashion magazines, professional books and internet sites. In the theoretical study, digital characteristics are limitless repetition, compressibility, interactivity, ease of deformation and mobility. And formative features of digital design are plasticity & geometry, assemblage, joints & connections, transparency and deformation. The results of analysis are as follow. Formative features of fashion design in digital era are classified nonlinearity, variability and hybrid. There are organic relations between digital characteristics and formative features of fashion design as well as between digital characteristics and formative features of digital design. Also, there is significant similarity between formative features of digital design and formative features of fashion design in digital era.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.155-172
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• 2002

The research has the aim of defining the special characteristics of the functionalist fashion design in the 1900s by understanding the essence of functionalism in the sociocultural contexts. Giving careful consideration to functionalist fashion design in the 1990s makes it possible to foresee the way of fashion design to meet the needs of the modems and men of the future world. To obtain the purposes, documentary study and demonstrative study with fashion photographs have been executed. Main results are as follows. Functionalism in the 1990s has been developed in different ways from the analogies in the beginning of the 20th century. It doesn't belong to an analogy but has the fused characteristics. It can be classified into techno functionalism influenced by new technology Pure functionalism related to minimalism. casual functionalism for those who are crazy about the speed and sports and enjoy the freedom and comfort and symbolic functionalism. Mechanical analogy has been developed into techno functionalism. Pure functionalism has come from the blend of mechanical and moral analogy, casual functionalism from mechanical. organic and moral analogy. and symbolic functionalism from organic and moral analogy. Since fashion design has much closer relation to human body and movements. it has been expressed considering a division of men and women and the places and times for the designs more than other designs. More casual manners of formal wear are distinct elements in functionalist fashion design in the 1990s. The 20th century general cultural phenomena including post modernism can be explained by eclectic functionalism. Functionalism considering Practical and conceptional functions ill continue and techno functionalism and casual functionalism in future fashion design will be expressed more strongly with new technology and casual trends of life style.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.102-115
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• 2002

The purposes of this study are to comprehend the internal meaning and the external form in style of Greek statue's clothing in the light of linked solution, and to compare the characterizations of style of Greek statue's clothing with those in Greek Art. For these purpose, the theoretical studies about Greek art are preceded as a framework of this research, and then plastic characteristics of Greek statue's clothing and Greek art are analyzed by the documentary studies, For sources, photographs of Greek statue in Archaeological Museum and Louvre museum are used. The result is as follows. It is demonstrated that the characters of internal meaning in style of Greek art and Greek statue's clothing. The internal meaning of style of Greek art and Greek statue's clothing are as follows 1) Beauty of vital is subject that possessed life and movement and embodied dynamics or inherent power. 2) Beauty of moderation is subject that achieves some of its most impressive and practise a similar economy and restraint. 3) Beauty of character is subject that reveals the character of its wearer and has its own charm and distinction The Greeks clarified beauty by looking for mathematical proportions. It is the interrelation of part with one another, and with the whole, together with the additional element of good colour, which constitutes beauty as perceived by the eyes. The beauty in style of Greek statue's clothing consists of a sense of geometrical pattern, oder, symmetry, proportion, and rhythm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.8
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• pp.1309-1321
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• 2008

Military style is not limited to a single period but represents various image communications related to items, synthetic images and different periodical culture backgrounds. The purpose of this study is to define the communicational function of the military style beginning from the 1st world war up to the modern days, and furthermore explain the characteristics and contents of military styles in different periods by studying the nowadays various symbols of the military style in denotative and connotative aspects. The research method is documentary studies through the literature and academic paper, and examined masters' and doctors' thesis, domestic and overseas books and fashion magazines, photographs and materials collected from the internet. As a result, first, the military style is a significant fashion code in understanding modern fashion by serving as a strong communication function representing people’s ritual through various image items called the 'military look'. Second, the meaning of the image communication through military look changed throughout the different periods. During the 1st and 2nd World war the military look supported Fascism by serving as a media representing extreme patriotism and at the same time social images like functionalism, women liberation, regulation and saving. During the cold war period it was used by young progressives like hippies and punks to send an opposing message towards war and commercialism. Since then up to the 80s it was a medium representing the ‘new role of women’, who possess same social rights and power as the men. However in the 90s the military style had to go through a paradigm transition period. Since this period it got affected by the post modernism and designers, consumers alike adopted military style to create unique beauty It can also be said that it began to be used as a pure fashion code representing intertextuality. It was rather expressed as a metonymy than a metaphor and combined with elegance and feminine factor, which contrasts to the original military concept, it now represents totally new hybrids such as difference, dissemination and varieties.