The purpose of this study was to observe the changes of skirt length of knitted flare skirts when the seamless test garments were made which had been having full shape while being knitted and to change and amend the challenges in advance when those were knitted. For this study, I made 6 kinds of knitted test garments of wool 100% yarn with seamless knitting machine, which differed from each other by skirt angles ($90^{\circ},\;180^{\circ}$) and gauges (7G, 12G, 15G), and then I measured deflection changes of their length for 2 weeks. Findings and conclusions drawn from this study were as follows: First, the side seam line of full shape hecame somewhat longer than center. Second, 7G and $180^{\circ}$ knitted flare skirt showed the biggest length deflection changes. Third, there was no difference at rear waist deflection changes between front pattern and rear. Fourth, it was difficult to control the tensions of right and left strings as to the knitting directions.
The purpose of this study is to investigate the fitness according to drafting method of the block patterns for women in Korea. The major findings of this study are as follows: 1. According to comparative analysis of required measurements, two measurements of back length and bust girth are used in Proportional Drafting Method (Munhwa). In case of Compromise Drafting Methods are used across chest, across back, bust length, bust width, full length in front, across shoulder and shoulder length in addition to back length and bust girth. The type of Armstrong as a Short Measure Drafting Method uses 10 measurements for the drafting the bodice. 2. While Esmod block pattern arid Armstrong's block pattern are the lightest in full width and other widths. Rasara block pattern is the most ample. In Lee, Myung-hee's block pattern and Lee, Hyung-sook's block pattern, amounts of drooping are decided $3{\sim}4cm$, but drooping amounts of other block patterns are decided corresponding to real measurements. While cap height in Esmod and Armstrong's sleeve patterns are directly measured Armhole length of the block pattern, cap height of other sleeve patterns are used armhole depth and cap height length as well as armhole length. 3. When analyzing to indirect measurements, Esmod block pattern shows the least different between full length of block pattern and that of body form. Munhwa block pattern and Kim, Hyosook's block pattern are mostly same to body form back length. However all of the block patterns are sheller than body form length. In case of Suh, Wansuk's block pattern, across back and across chest are same size, but other block patterns show difference between across back and across chest. Most block patterns' neck width in front and bach bodice are almost same. Front neck width is generally bigger than back neck width in some cases.
In this study, the difference in human body dimensions between the age groups of Generation M (27 to 39 years old) and Generation Z (20 to 26 years old) was analyzed. This study also analyzed if there was a change in the body shape of the MZ generation, who have different sensibilities from the "young people" of the past. In addition, major changes in human body dimensions were carefully analyzed and presented as basic data for clothing design. Therefore, a t-test was performed to verify the significant differences in the measurements of each age group. To examine the change in human body measurements according to the measurement year, the 7th and 8th size Korea data statistics were analyzed. The main required dimensions of clothing design were analyzed graphically for visual changes according to measurement year and age group. As a result of the analysis, Generation Z was found to have a difference in body shape from Generation M, and is generally smaller and slimmer with broader shoulders. In addition, the body shape change between the 7th and 8th measurement periods was significantly higher than the 8th measurement overall. Height has increased and back length has become shorter, resulting in a larger ratio of lower body length. In addition, the proportion of obesity abnormalities has increased. Therefore, since the dimensional system set from the past data can cause problems for the fitting of clothing for the MZ generation, it is necessary to design the clothing and reset the dimensional system making it suitable for the changed the body shape of the MZ generation.
The purpose of this study was to analysis of design preference according to age of consumers in order to obtain basic informations which are necessary for the development of designs that can satisfy the needs and desire of Chinese consumers. The style, color, fabric pattern, fabric, image, and shape of clothing were used for design preference variations. The study was implemented by surveying 280 females living in Beijing, China. The results were as follows: 1) There were significant differences in the preference of style of outdoor clothes according to age. Chinese women in the age of twenties and fifties prefer to wear casual clothes. Preference ratio was more than 60% 2) There were significant differences in the preference of color of spring and summer clothes, but there was no difference in the preference of color of autumn and winter clothes. 3) There was a difference in the preference of fabric pattern of outdoor clothes. Generally Chinese women showed 50% of preference for the no patterned outdoor clothes. 4) There were no differences in the preference of fabric materials. Preferred material for spring and summer was cotton fabrics, and that for autumn and winter was woolen fabrics. 5) In the research of the preferred image of outdoor clothes, generally Chinese women showed the most preference for elegance style. Chines women who are in the age of thirties to forties preferred feminine style. However, Chinese women who are in the age of fifties like to choose simple style. 6) There was a significant difference in the preference of length of jacket and skirt, and generally Chinese women preferred to wear medium length of jacket and skirt. There was no difference in the preference of design of collar and shape of pants. However most Chinese women showed preference for tailored collar and straight shaped pants.
For design of early childhood children's footwear, this study was to analyze the properties of their foot. This study was performed in 200 male and 200 female early childhood children from 3 and 6 years old lived in susan urban area. There were measured 17 items of the foot and calculated 4 indexs for analysis. The result was as follows; 1 The growth rate differs from the sites of a foot. According to the growth of age, early childhood children's foot are more slender. 2. The average of foot print angle is $15~27^{\circ}$ and it is flat. Among the age groups, the numbers of 4 kinds of foot print angle are different siginificantly. 3. The average of metatarso phalanx angle is $174~178^{\circ}$ that is higher than adults'. 4. There are no significant difference between male children's foot and female childen's one except tarsal circumference and tarsal height. Tarsal part of male children is higher and ticket than female children's. 5. Because some of 3~6 age groups belong to the one foot length group, we should consider the age properties of foot in order to design footwears. When the size of footwear is divided by only foot length, the ranges of another measurements are larger than the range of foot length.
The purpose of this study is to propose a standard of converting 3D shape of men in twenties to 2D patterns. This can be a basis for scientific and automatic pattern making for high quality custom clothes. Firstly, representative 3D body shape of men was modeled. Then the 3D model was divided into 3 shells, front, side and back. Among them, the front shell was divided into 4 blocks by bust line and princess line. Secondly, curves are generated on each block according to matrix combination by grid method. Then triangles were developed into 2D pieces by reflecting the 3D curve length. The grid was arranged to maintain outer curve length. Next, the area of developed pieces and block were calculated and difference ratio between the block area and the developed pieces' area is calculated. Also, area difference ratio by the number of triangles is calculated. The difference ratio was represented as graphs and optimal section is selected by the shape of graphs. The optimal matrix was set considering connection with other blocks. Curves of torso upper front shell were regenerated by the optimal matrix and developed into pieces. We validated it's suitability by comparing difference ratio between the block area and the developed pieces' area of optimal section. The results showed that there was no significant difference between block area and the pieces' area developed by optimal matrix. The optimal matrix for 2D developing could be characterized as two types according to block's shape characteristics, one is affected by triangle number, the other is affected by number of raws more than columns. Through this study, both the 2D pattern developing from 3D body shape and 3D modeling from 2D pattern is possible, so it's standardization also possible.
This study was conducted to find out the relationship between skin temperature and clothing temperature in body parts. Four different kinds of fabrics were used in this experiment. These fabrics were a (Ny/Spun, 81.8/18.2%), b (Wool/Poly/span, 50/45/5%), (Wool/Ny/Span70/25/5) and d (Wool/Poly/Span 45/45/10%). The subjects skated at indoor ice rink where the length was 111.12 m, the temperature was $11{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ and the humidity was $70{\pm}10%$. The four an male professional skaters speed was $17{\pm}1$ seclm/lap. Physiological parameters were skin temperature at 4 body points (chest, upper arm, thigh, leg) and clothing temperature at chest was measured every 15 second. Experiment protocol was as follows: resting before skating (5 min.), skating (5 min.), and resting after skating (10 min.). The results were as follows; The mean skin temperature by fabrics shows b > a > d > c. The mean skin temperature began to decline little by little as soon as the subjects entered the indoor ice rink. After they rested for five minutes, they started skating and the mean skin temperature declined widely. After skating, the mean skin temperature increased step by step. It maintained the similar temperature. The value of skin temperature at body points shows Leg > Chest > Upper arm > Thigh. Because of the characteristics of skating uniforms, the skin temperature of the leg is the highest. The skating uniform was designed to have a protective portion in the leg. The chest produces the highest temperature in the body. The comparison of difference values in skin temperature show Thigh > Upper arm > Chest > Leg. While skating in a cold atmosphere, the largest difference value is clothing temperature. The clothing temperature is lower than the skin temperature during skating. The difference value of clothing temperature is larger than the skin temperature of the chest.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket focused on the variation of the length according to the body type and the degree of satisfaction with the body of middle-aged women. For this study, twenty seven different types of tailored jacket were designed with some variation of their silhouette, the length and the collar's figure on three hundred and twenty three middle-aged women ranging from 35 to 50 years old. There was a significant difference in the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket according to the body type of middle-aged women. The women of the body type I evaluated that tailored jackets of the long length were more attractive, graceful, and active, soft and preferred the style, and the women of the body type II and III, them of the middle length. The women of the body type I evaluated that tailored jackets of the short length were more attractive, graceful, active, soft and preferred the style. Also there was a meaningful difference in the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket according to the degree of satisfaction with their bodies. As satisfied with their face size, they thought tailored jackets of the long length were more attractive, graceful and active, soft and they preferred the style. As satisfied with the girth of the hip, they evaluated the short/long tailored jackets were more attractive, graceful and active, soft and they preferred the style. As satisfied with their height they valued the long tailored jacket was more attractive, graceful and active, soft and they preferred the style.
The purpose of this study was to investigate the differences between the body cathexis, appearance management behaviors and satisfaction with apparel fit according to physical figure of college women who had deep interests in their body and appearance. Data for this study was obtained from 413 college women in Taegu and Kyungpook Province. Means, t-test, ANOVA and Scheffe's post hoc comparison were used in data analysis. The result of this study were; 1. It was found that both body Cathexis and fit satisfaction of college women were generally low. College women were less satisfied with their body and fit of apparel. The unsatisfied body parts were thighs, abdomen and hip. 2. Significant differences in Satisfaction with apparel fit were found in skirt length, slacks length, thigh according to height and significant difference in satisfaction with apparel fit were found in armhole, abdomen, calf according to weight. 3. Significant differences in appearance management behaviors were not found according to height, but significant differences in diet, exercise and clothing use were found according to weight. Also significant differences in diet and clothing use were found according to R$\ddot{o}$hrer index.
This study analyzes the body sizes of young boys in order to categorize a sizing system for middle and high school uniforms. The study was based on the $6^{th}$ National Anthropometric Survey (Size Korea 2010) data. The sample size consisted of 2,317 boys between the ages of 13 and 18 years. Most measurement items increased significantly relative to age and there was rapid growth between the ages of 13 and 14 years. The growth for the chest and hip was more than the waist. The drop value 1 (difference between chest circumference and waist circumference) and the drop value 2 (difference between hip circumference and waist circumference) increased remarkably from the age of 13 to the age of 15. Therefore, the waist size decreased and chest and hip became wider relative to the age increase. Middle school students had a smaller chest and hip circumference than high school students in the comparative body measurement results for middle school students (13-15 years) and high school students (16-18 years) of the same height group. The somatotype of high school students showed a long trunk length, broad chest and shoulder.
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