• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.221-236
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to make a contribution to the development of creative fashion culture through the expansion of creative fields in the fashion design area and also the combination of fashion and art techniques, by classifying the cases of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ expressed in modern fashion, and also analyzing its aesthetic characteristics. Conducting the qualitative research through the literature study and the analysis of design cases, it targeted the women's wear collections of Paris, Milan, London, and New York, limiting its range from S/S 2010 to F/W 2015. The results are as follows: First, based on the preceding research, the types of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ expressed in modern fashion were shown as realistic expression of clothing, movement of daily objects, double images, and application of human body. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ based on its expression types were deconstruction, avant-garde, and amusements. The deconstruction was expressed in the expression type of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ such as freedom of materials using digital printing technique, change in the position of clothes, and movement of daily items using collage technique by collecting objets like daily items or waste. The avant-garde was expressed by switching/overlapping in and out of clothes, intentionally exposing some body parts like breast or torso, displacing body parts, and moving daily items. The amusements was shown by realistically expressing accessories or details of clothes using digital printing technique, or moving daily items such as book and fork.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.56-64
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• 2012

This paper has tried to analyze the characteristics of space in Korean traditional architecture by deconstructive concept through connecting Lao-tzu's theory, the main discourse of East and West, with Derrida's deconstructionism theory. Derrida's philosophical term of differance(diff$\acute{e}$rance) is similar to Tao of Lao-tzu. It is because Derrida emphasized the relationships with others by trying the strategy of overcoming dichotomous thinking by this term. Tao of Lao-tzu also has the relative characteristics that cannot be concluded by one sole meaning. Like this, Derrida and Lao-tzu are against traditional and dichotomous way of thinking. In this point of view, this study has set Derrida's deconstruction theory and Lao-tzu's thinking as the common viewpoint of this world. And through the phrase of Tao Te Ching which means deconstructive Tao, deconstructive space design vocabulary was derived as mixed no-boundary, shape of no-shape, transcendence of time and space. The deconstructive characteristics of traditional space by case study analysis of Lao-tzu's deconstructive space design are as follows: First, it is not a specific or detailed shape but an unlimited possibility that can be transformed into something else, moving and changing endlessly and has a borderless beauty. Second, it is nothing itself but creates various shapes, as if it exists without shape. Third, it is a relative and unlimited space and pursuits a free form as a non-conceptional shape without any system or value.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.296-308
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to comprehend the contemporary sports star fashion and to contemplate aesthetic characteristics of sports star fashion, thereby to establish the styles of sports star fashion. For such purposes, this study first examines aesthetic characteristics of sports fashion and star fashion based on previous studies, in order to analyze aesthetic characteristics of sports star fashion, and conducts a case study by analyzing photographic materials of fashion styles of well-known male sports stars such as the English soccer player David Beckham and American golf player Tiger Woods. The result of this study is as follows: the aesthetic characteristics of the contemporary sports star fashion are virility, functionality, sensuality and deconstruction. (1) Virility emphasizes manly features by displaying trained and disciplined body. (2) Functionality is expressed through structural simplicity and temperance of decoration. High-tech textiles and fibers are favored in order to fit in comfortable bodily movement for the heavy exercises. (3) Sensuality, as an expression of indulgence of sexual pleasure, is expressed through bodily exposure. Lastly, (4) deconstruction, which means destroying existed boundaries of cultural categories, is shown as co-existence of design elements from different times and places, stereotypes and sensibilities. Virility and functionality are prominent characteristics expressed in sports uniforms and training costumes. Sensuality and deconstruction are shown in daily fashion and formal dress outside the sports field.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.135-152
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to explore the role of deconstruction and creative destruction in Maison Margiela’s fashion design code, which has opened the door to a new wave of innovative design since 1988. Using a combination of theoretical analysis, precedent research, and a review of existing literature, five years of Maison Margiela's works (2010-2014) were evaluated. The analysis shows that Maison Margiela’s Design Code consists of the following key elements: Addition, Extension, Asymmetry, Elimination, Deconstruction, Complanation, and Inversion. Addition refers to act of attaching additional pieces of fabric or clothing on the existing piece. Extension refers to the act of extending the design elements, such as their position or features. Asymmetry means the irregular positioning of left-to right and front-to-back length and features. Deconstruction could be seen in intentionally frayed sleeves, open seams, and tears in the cloth. The element of Elimination was evident in the removal of key pieces of clothing such as a coat, pants, blouse, and a jacket. Complanation refers to the reversion to a two dimensional contemplation of the human form rather than the more obvious 3-dimensional form. Finally, Inversion was used by displaying an inner layer of clothing on the outside or exposing seams or zippers in a way that people are not accustomed to seeing. It also meant that the order of wearing clothes was sometimes inverted, so external layers would be worn within clothing that are traditionally underneath. Maison Margiela’s creations represented a break

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.66-87
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• 2022

This study explores the possibility of creating new experimental hanbok designs by accommodating the latest world fashion trends and the changing needs of consumers, in order to attempt to overcome the limitations of traditional Korean fashion design. To do so, We analyze works by contemporary Korean fashion designers to investigate current developments in Korean fashion design and to identify areas of improvement within hanbok design. The results show that most contemporary hanbok designs repeat stereotypes of traditional hanbok with minor modifications. So there arises a need to create new hanbok designs that are clearly distinct from traditional hanbok but also maintain its core features. To develop such designs, I apply the techniques of deconstruction fashion, which allow making experiments with form, composition, and materials use to realize new aesthetics. The use of CLO 3D fashion design software also proves to be very efficient for developing experimental designs. The study results make meaningful contributions to the development of virtual clothing and 3D fashion for hanbok, particularly as metaBUS, a cloud-based research synthesis platform, is rapidly gaining ground, and reality and virtual reality are increasingly mixed in everyday life. This attempt at 3D design of hanbok is expected to trigger more creative experimentation in hanbok design.

• 한국조경학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.80-98
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• 2006

This study originated from following questions. What can we understand the conception of deconstruction, which has been the core idea of new discourses developed in various ways since modernism? How can this question be interpreted in landscape design? What is the conceptional frame of integration the prominent hybrid post-genre movements and phenomena? The frame can be epitomized with the deconstruction phenomenon. 'Deconstruction' is the core conception appeared in late or post-modern ages in the embodiment of modernity and can be viewed as an integrating or a hybrid phenomenon between areas or genres in formative arts. Therefore, the author regards the hybrid movements widely witnessed in the post contemporary formative arts as one of the most important indicators of de-constructive signs. It is safe to say that the phenomenon of this integration or hybridism, of course, does not threaten the identity of landscape design but serves as an opportunity to extend the areas of landscape design. One of the consequences of this integration or hybridism is the voluntary participation of users who have been alienated in the production of the meanings of design works and hybrid landscape design with the hybridization of genres that is characterized with transformation in forms. This view is based on the distinction between hybridization of interactions between the designer (the subject) and the user (the object), and hybridization of synesthesia. Generally speaking, this is an act of destroying boundaries of the daily life and arts. At the same time, it corresponds to vanishing of modern aesthetics and emerging of post-contemporary aesthetics which is a new aesthetic category like sublimeness. This types of landscape design tries to restore humans' sensibility and perceptions restrained by rationality and recognition in previous approach and to express non-materialistic characteristics with precaution against excessive materialism in the modern era. In light of these backgrounds, the study aims to suggest the hybrid concept and to explorer a new landscape design approach with this concept, in order to change the design structure from 'completed' or 'closed' toward 'opened' and to understand the characteristics of interactions between users and designs. This new approach is expected to create an open-space integrating complexity and dynamics of users. At the same time, it emphasizes senses of user' body with synesthesia and non-determination. The focus is placed on user participation and sublimity rather than on aesthetic beauty, which kind of experience is called simulacre. By attaching importance to user participation, the work got free from the material characteristics, and acceptance from the old practice of simple perception and contemplation. The boundaries between the subject and object and the beautiful and ordinary, from the perspective of this approach, are vanished. Now everything ordinary can become an artistic work. Western dichotomy and discrimination is not effective any more. And there is 'de-construction' where there is perfect equality between ordinary daily life and beautiful arts. Thus today's landscape design pays attention to the user and uses newly perceived sensitivity by pursing obscure and unfamiliar things rather than aesthetic beauty. Space is accordingly defined to take place accidentally as happening and event, not as volume of shape. It's the true way to express spatiality of landscape design. That's an attempt to reject conventional concepts about forms and space, which served as the basis for landscape design, and to search for new things.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권3_4호
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• pp.569-575
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• 2005

The objective of this study is to consider the concept of postmodernism and the characteristics concerning the stage of the development, and to investigate the effect of the postmodernism on the clothing. Postmodernism is the result of the late capitalism and its characteristics are the narrative, mixture and deconstruction. First, since it is impossible to express the social culture of various society through one theoretical disclosure, the novel value on the narrative is provided and its characteristics arise. Hence, the society becomes afford to accept the other and provides the novel value to the absolute sub-concept. Second, the recognization and emphasis of the narrative in the post modem society bring about the repulsion as to the strict classification between the high culture and low one established from modernism and the closure between each genre of the art, and this causes to raise the composed characteristics which borrow or mix the style and image of different age and culture. Third, the deconstructive feature arises which eliminates the boundary between the high and low class, the past and future and the destruction and construction. This means not only anther recomposition but also skeptical attitude about it.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권9호
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• pp.41-50
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• 2006

This study examines the characteristics of the military look in modern fashion. The materials for the study are mainly precedent studies and related literature, although fashion portfolios and magazines, domestic and international, are used for the exploratory study. The results of the study are as follows. First, the military look for women dismantles the sexual symbolism endowed with the clothes by expressing a neutral charm out of dichotomy image between genders. The neutral expression of the military look, different from the military look of the 20th century, provides a chance to feature a new image by pursuing more individual freedom than human itself. Second, the military-look emphasizes feminine sensual charm through exposing, concealing, or decorating with ornaments which are transformed from the elements of the military clothes, This is different from the past military look that expressed masculine rigidity through simplifying the details and emphasizing the male body silhouette. Third, the military look produces a deconstruction image instead of just showing its intrinsic thoughts or symbolic message through combining design elements or symbolic details of the military look with other images, transforming and exaggerating the shapes, or mixing the time point of views reinterpreting the present or the future image.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.103-116
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• 2010

In view of our contemporary fashion, it is found that crossover between clothing and other items leads to creation of a new design and crossover of various cultural codes, ultimately creating a multicultural clothing design or any external outline of emerging costume designs by attempting mutual combination with other fields. Starting from a viewpoint that mutual combination style has significant effects on our contemporary fashion designs, this study intends to characterize external aspects of fashion design that changes through mutual combination style. This study focused upon analyzing costumes released by contemporary fashion designers after 2000, and addressed a variety of mutual combination styles. It gives various examples on mutual combination in fashion, seeking first to look into typical examples of mutual combination styling between fashion and art, between fashion and space and between fashion and technology. Based on those examples, this study classified crossover styles into 6 major categories such as attachment, suspension, modification, fusion, association and embedment. As a result, this study comes to a conclusion that external changes by mutual combination are characterized largely by overlap, simultaneity and deconstruction.

• 복식
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.71-85
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• 2003

In the turn of the century, fashion designers have not just drawn upon one or two subcultural styles but have extracted elements from many subcultures to use in a single collection. In true postmodern style these are freely combined with historical, cross-cultural and futuristic influences to create new fashions. The process could be explained by bubble-up phenomenon, retroism. pastiche and pursuit of pleasure. In the course of illustrating subcultural styles transformed into mainstream fashion, the case of Punk was studied as a turning point of modernist and postmodern period which have been introduced by high fashion designers since the birth in 1976. The following cases have continued to appear entering upon the third millennium and the aesthetic value of those can be summarized as ambiguity, eclecticism, and deconstruction. In other words. the energy and authenticity of Punk has been considered to be desirable in high fashion, however designers focus on clothing and adornment rather than ideology and lifestyle. The aesthetic property of subcultural style defeats the established notion of standardized fashion and stimulates new consciousness. which allows a room to be diversified and subdivided.