• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.25 no.3
• /
• pp.15-26
• /
• 1987

The purpose of this study was to develop the pattern drafting method which would be suitable to their physical characteristics for the fatty body of 40∼55 aged Korean women who are more than 1.5 Rohrer's Index and 90㎝ bust girth. The study was composed as follows; 1. Body measurement and statistical analysis: One hundred and thirty women were measured on 29 items. Thirty-four items including 29 measured items and 5 calcutated items were analyzed statistically. 1) Mean, standard deviation, variance, maximum, minimum, range were computed. 2) Correlation coefficients between each items were computed. 2. Development of new bodice pattern drafting method: Measurement items necessary to draft new bodice pattern were bust girth, center back waist length, shoulder width, back width, chest and neck base girth. The new pattern was examined through three wearing tests for completion. 3. Evaluation of the new pattern drafting method: The new pattern was objectively evaluated by the sensory test. The sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new pattern for the fatty body women by comparint it with the conventional patterns. The results of sensory tests of the new pattern are as follows: 1) The composite reliability coefficient is 0.7698, and the reliability of sensory test shows high. 2) According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 23 items on the questionaire, all the items showed significant differences(α 0.01) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new pattern is better conventional pattern as the average mark of the former is 3.901 but that of latter is 2.926. The new pattern drafting method proved to be superior to the conventional one especially in the fitness at the center front neck point, shoulder point, side line, armscye depth, position of bust point, chest width line, under arm dart and the shoulder line.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.18 no.5
• /
• pp.892-907
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study was to compare torso pattern made by draping and flat pattern method in terms of the size of breast. The size of this study was classified as 75A and 75D according to the size of breast. Each torso pattern by the combination of the size and pattern method was compared and analyzed. In order to test the fit of the draping and flat pattern that was developed according to the size of breast, the outer appearance was evaluated. The results of the study were as follows: First, The most striking size difference was difference between the front and the back on bust line level, which decides on position of the side seam in comparison of size between draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. In the flat pattern, the difference between the front and the back in the size of breast was consistent regardless of a change in the size of breast. However, in the draping, the bigger breast led to the bigger difference between the front and the back on bustline level. Second, the flat pattern in 75D was evaluated to be the worst in 27 items among total 46 items for the evaluation of outer appearance in the draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. Third, regardless of size, the draping was evaluated to be more suitable in the areas related to neck, arm hole, and waist dart than the flat pattern. These results are suggesting that the draping is a method of reflecting characteristic of the body type more accurately than the flat pattern, and that the draping is a more suitable method than the flat pattern for the design of clothing pattern of the body type with big breast like 75D.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.14 no.3 s.62
• /
• pp.387-403
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop a new torso pattern for the schoolgirl of a tween generation who had different somatotype from children and teenagers. The subjects in this study were female elementary school students of fifth or sixth grade. Through a sensory evaluation of four existing torso patterns, the first research torso pattern was developed. Drafting methods of each item, which closed to the optimum value three, were selected. The differences between the values of the selected drafting methods and the optimum three were verified through a Wilcoxon's ranked sum test. The final research torso pattern was developed through adjusting the drafting methods according to the deviation from the optimum value three. The schoolgirl of a tween generation is at the time to show the remarkable breast development compared with a waist circumference, so the bust drafting was defined as B/4+ 1.25cm separately front and back. The drafting of a waist circumference was defined as W/4+1cm separately front and back which taken the ease amounts of the somatotype into consideration of the schoolgirl of a tween generation. A princess line was used instead of a waist dart because their hip circumference was more developed than a waist circumference. The crossed amount of a front hemline was 0.3cm and that of a back hemline was 0.7cm. and the princess line of the position was drawn with a straight line at a right angle of the back waistline. The armhole depth was determined B/4-1cm in consideration of the aesthetic and the trend, although the effective movement of upper arm was required.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.12 no.3
• /
• pp.31-53
• /
• 2008

This study is to suggest a brassiere pattern suitable to the Chinese woman by recognizing the differences among the brassiere patterns of Europe, America and Italy by comparison. Collected data was analyzed by using SPSS 12.0. 1. If seeing the length of the ordinary brassiere's wing in Korea, the mean is 31.02cm to be shorter than these 3 patterns. The length of a wing should be adjusted according to the degree of fabric's elasticity. 2. The ESMOD type shows a high angle of $60^{\circ}$ as the position of a shoulder strip is placed outward a lot compared with other patterns. 3. For the FIT and Marangoni types, the lengths of the inside and the external diameters show similarly to each other but the ESMOD type shows that its inside diameter is 7.5cm and external one is 9.6cm to have the difference of 2.1cm so that it is considered to put the bust together stronger than the others. 4. The cup circumference of the FIT pattern shows to be the biggest and that of the FIT pattern is the smallest. As the FIT pattern has the shape to wrap the side of the bust, it has large circumference but as it has a narrow angle of a dart, it seems to be fit to the woman with a small and flat bust. 5. For 1/2 of the nipple distance of the brassiere for the Korean adult women, it shows to be 6.12cm, much narrower than the patterns studied, and it is noticed that the ESMOD pattern is very similar to the brassier in the Korean market. 6. As the mean keeper height is 6.5cm, it is noticed that it is very similar to the brassier for the Korean adult women if comparing that the brassiere for the Korean adult has the keeper height of 6.5-8.6cm. The Marangoni pattern tends to have a little low and the ESMOD and FIT patterns have a ordinary measure.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.23 no.1
• /
• pp.143-154
• /
• 2021

This study attempted to develop winter jackets and pants patterns reflecting the latest comfortable and active school uniform trends, using middle school boy avatars having various body shapes. Jacket and pants pattern-drawing methods and margins differed. Based on the results, research prototypes were prepared. Then, virtual wear prospective drawings, clothing pressure, and appearance were assessed according to body shape. Jackets were assessed using 25 factors, while pants were assessed using 19. Then, correlations between the jackets and pants were analyzed. According to the analysis, the reason why the dart & tuck position and margin were rated low was confirmed. In a virtual wear assessment on jacket patterns by body shape, a significant difference was found in all categories, except for fit and shape at the front bottom, sleeve length on the side, and the center back line. The virtual wear assessment on the pants patterns by body shape also revealed a significant difference in all categories, except for pants length. In jackets, a significant influence was observed around the shoulders and waist in Type 1 and around the belly in Type 2. On the contrary, for pants, a significant influence was found around the hip and waist in Type 1 and around back crotch in Type 2. Therefore, they should be considered when making of jackets and pants. The above results suggested that jacket and pants patterns should vary depending on body shape. It is anticipated that there should be further studies comparing brand-name school uniforms for middle school girls and school uniforms by body shape.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.13 no.4
• /
• pp.600-613
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide Torso pattern for Korean middle-aged women using 3D human body scan data. 155 women in their 40's or 50's were measured by Martin's anthropometry. Merging the data of 914 middle aged women provided by Korean agency for technology and standards, total of 1,069 subjects' data were analyzed. For data analysis, ANOVA, factor analysis and cluster analysis were done using SPSS PC+. And representative subject of each cluster was selected and they participated in 3D scanning and Torso pattern suggested for middle-aged women Torso pattern which investing the amount of ease according to each group for diffuse front interscye 30%, armscye circumference 30%, back interscye 40% using 3D human body scan data. The results of this study are as follows. Firstly, as a result of the factor analysis, the first factor was 'obesity index of body', The second factor was 'verticality size of body', The third factor was 'verticality length of upper bodice', The fourth factor was 'drop value to represent silhouette', and the fifth factor was 'physique of upper bodice'. And, middle-aged women type were classified 3 types according to the cluster analysis. Type 1(Y-type) was the long upper Torso with wide shoulder. Type 2(H-type) was flat-body type with comparatively thin upper bodice and thin lower bodice. And type 3(A-type) was the obese type with comparatively thin upper bodice and fat lower bodice. Secondly, using CAD program, point filtering was performed and approximated surface model was made. It used that generated surface smoothing corrected for abnormally extruded points and scattered points based on the curvature information. And 3D surfaces were flatted onto the plane by the internal tools of CAD program. Difference ratios of outline length and area between 3D curves and 2D plane were 0.42% and 0.54%, respectively. Third, wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that distinct difference almost every category. The movement functionality test shows that, in all the tests which reveal significant differences, especially, 'comparison pattern A' experienced inconvenience to neck width and neck depth.