Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
/
v.15
no.3
/
pp.167-185
/
2013
Among korean traditional culture, TalChum(mask dance) which bears our unique cultural emotion, is about wearing a Tal(korean mask) and dancing, which express our ethnic feeling. The ethnic feeling was expressed into silhouette of hotel uniform which sightseers at home and abroad most frequently visit. This would be the best and the fastest way to show and deliver ethinic feeling of Korea. Fashion design of an uniform would be the best way to express group's unification and attachment. The purpose of this study was to design uniforms, in order to satisfy the property of function, aesthetic points, symbolism to inhere and to differentiate the group from others by using plastic and creative design. This study was meant to induce people to get near to characteristic of Korean culture, using hotel uniform design. Mask's plastic beauty of characteristic Chosun dynasty and express vividly Tal's image with Korean traditional reality was applied on hotel uniform design. By doing so, visitors can come back to the hotel with longtime memory of Korea. The characteristics and the humorous symbolism of Tal were designed and applied to uniform design on collar, bodice, pocket, and sleeves.
This study intended to develop and produce a modern form of fashion design for the Korean creative dance performance, 'Crazy Skirt Collage', which expressed conflict between internal ego and a persona in a woman. The qualitative method was used to analyze literature review, internet search and visual data of historically important cases related to the theme. Based on the analysis, the fashion design of the dance performanre by Hwang Hee-Yeon that was actually staged on Towol Theater, one of the Seoul Arts Center, was produced. The results wire as follows; First, the study confirmed a change of persona that revealed a female's animus strongly as it moved into the modern time. Second, the female's persona was expressed through long skirts, slips, dress shoes, handbags, military shoes, dresses with long zippers, trousers, wedding dresses and Korean full skirts during the performance, while the female's animus through male coats, panties, big bags and clock. In conclusion, it is necessary to study new expressive methods, that is, dance clothes using advanced equipment such as lights, videos or other variety of materials. It is also important to understand aesthetics of modern women's ordinary lives and to adapt ordinary clothes to dance clothes in various methods in order to express their modern lives appropriately through Korean creative dance.
Today though the word ginyoe(gisaeng) was remained as a historic relic but they were firmly existed about 40 years ago and ginyoe's number was about three million in Chosun it's almost near 0.5% of the total population of Chosun. To think that point the ginyoe's so-ciety was considered a special one in the his-tory of Korean woman. The ginyoe as a special social class were specialize in technical art such as dancing and prostitute. Although they were low class they were luxurious slaves whoses clothing was almost equal to that of royal family. They were the leaders of fashion in woman clothing that's because their role was entertainer, This study can be summarized as follows. First ginyoe and public woman's clothing codes were nearly same in koryo but tatally separated in chosun. I could find that was came from those day's moral sprit. Second ginyoe's clothing was not only have luxuriance like royal family but also have unique clothing codes for them. Though they are low class ginyoe could use upper class's clothing codes. But upper class women could'nt use ginyoe's clothing codes are vary various and have their own clothing codes. Third I analyzed ginyoe's clothing codes and then derived 6 ginyoe's clothing messages. They were symbol of wealth symbol of power symbol of occupational function symbol of sexual attraction symbol of social position symbol of freedom.
The hip-hop, which began with subculture of black people in Harlem, have changed variously in musical history after the times, which has become the culture phenomenon that had controlled dancing, fashion, and further consciousness of the new generation around the world in 1990s. Since Jean Patou first used Graffiti on clothing in 1920s, graffiti art has been expressed through various methods in many designers' works. The purpose of this study is to develop 'The Hip-Hop' clothing design which express major images in works of Jean-Michel Basquiat, a representative painter of Graffiti art in modern fashion. The concept is Jean Casual Look representing Young Street Culture. Breaking from existing strong legitimate hip-hop styles, clothing design expresses funny, healthy, comfortable, and active feelings. Adobe Illustrator and Adobe Photoshop program were used to design Hip-Hop clothing. With the result that the images on Basquiat's works applied to the hip-hop clothing design, it is suggested that the works of artists are worthy of practical use as factors of a high value-added design, which corresponds with collaboration appearing in modern design variously.
Today we seem to be flooded with digital culture as the age of information has reached its peak. As fusion culture has been generalized, in which the arts and culture of the East and the West are in harmony, and quality of life has been improved, people are enjoying more abundant cultural benefits than ever. In such a situation, we may lose the origin of our culture and disregard our traditional culture due to the mixture of cultures. In addition, it is necessary at this point to distinguish pure culture from mixed one and to re-illuminate the value of our original culture for the next generation. Therefore, the author took interested in Dongraeyaryu, a large-scale festival in Busan, which has been designated as an important intangible cultural property, and carried out a research for its continuous instruction and activation. among contents such as music, costume, dancing and stage properties that compose intangible cultural property, this study selected costume, which has significant visual effects and large differences in shape between old one and contemporary one, for development. By proposing modernized design of costume preferred by the new generation and in harmony with the masks, this study wished to narrow the generation gap, to direct young people's attention to the learning of tradition and to propose motives that activate the culture of local festival.
Since the beginning of the 90's, Fashion shows appear to be a type of performance form of art combining with other areas to visually entertain the viewers. This can be explained by the modern tendency to escape from society which requires formality and complicated lifestyles. Fashion shows take place in a scene Influenced by the idea of post-modernism which redefines the definition of space. A church, old factory, unoccupied ground, subway stations, or even place like a waste disposal are used as a setting. The stage set is no longer the T shape run way and the procinium arch has disappeared. The gap between audience and stage has diminished and theatrical element is added to the fashion performance by using viewers living and working environments as setting of the show. The human relation with machine based on the cutting edge technology such as the stage automation, robots and mist making sprinkler system introduces new elements with spontaneity and detailed planning in the stage performance. Music also plays an Important role in attracting viewers. The sound track covers house music to techno music. Instead of music being abstract, folks orchestral music, choirs, piano. even live concert performed by pop artist provide the liveliness of the fashion show. And the catwalk itself is a performance. Model needs to be well trained as the capable talent who can handle sensitive gestures, facial expressions, dancing and choreography. The improvisatorial interaction between audience and model lead to audience participation. Models now range from pop star, ordinary people, handicapped people, to elderly and so on. John Galliano introduced the theatrical factors for the fashion show and Alexander Mcqueen approached the fashion show as the visual art of communication. Hussein Chalayan utilized high technology skewing futurism as if in a magic show. Today the Fashion show tends to be a total performance which includes audience participation, impromptu, and that break the limitation that fashion shows previously had. This will lead the fashion industry in opening new horizon of its own.
The purpose of this thesis is to make an effective Korean Hip Hop culture and suggest a new style direction in classifying the types of fashion styles of the Hip Hop musicians and studying their features. They are surveyed in stage costumes, hair styles, make-ups, accessaries, and total fashion styles, and then classified into Normal Hip Hop Style, Casual Hip Hop Style, Sporty Hip Hop Style, Mix & Match Hip Hop Style, and Classical Hip Hop Style. The results of the study are as follows: First, Normal Hip Hop Style is the most general and universal Hip Hop fashion type. They wear clothes in bigger sizes and exaggeratively. And also a cornrow hair style, a tattoo, and a piercing represent marked individualities. Second, Casual Hip Hop Style is more active and practical than Normal Hip Hop Style. Their blue jeans and T-shirts express more simple and polished style. And also they make variable fashion styles and hair styles such as a cornrow hair and a buzz cut. Third, Sporty Hip Hop Style is from B-boy's clothes when they do active and violent break dancing. As NBA basketball games are popular, they wear training clothes, breeches, big T-shirts, and jumpers & caps on embroidered sport team's names. Their hair style is short or natural and also they have caps or hoods to present active mood. Fourth, Mix & Match Hip Hop Style is existed variable elements in one style. The typical type of this style is jacket & blue jean. It is characterized by dress shirts, neck ties, blue jeans, sneakers, beards, and moustaches. Fifth, Classical Hip Hop Style is from African Americans. They try to express assimilated appearance of Anglo-Saxons. They wear black suits, shoes, hats, and sunglasses to represent formality and elegance. In the above results, there are variable fashion styles in one Hip Hop music genre and also fashion style is changed with musical inclination. This thesis is an important guide to produce variable and creative Hip Hop fashion styles in Korean Hip Hop culture.
The results from the consideration of this are as follows. 1. Various kindes of entertainments were beganed by common peoples of old china. 2. From the Han dynasty Various kindes of entertainments are devided into the classic dance and music which was performed courtesy ceremonial meetings of ancient china. 3. Traditional drama dance and musics performed art by artist of old china was called collectively "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" 4. After unification of Han dynasty many commercial men and artist come from western to China therefore western music dance and drama acrobatic magic flowered into the old china so "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" items was abundant. "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" items as follows: 1) dramas 2) horsemanships. 3) acrobatics 4) magics 5) masked dramas. 5. "Various kinds of Entertainments" artist's costumes as follows: 1)For mens: *Old-china's "Various kindes of Entertainments" artist's costumes of Han-dynasty was Chin hyun-Kwan(진현관) right handed neck collor long coat narrow trousers belt just simmillar is official's dress of Han dynasty. *Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" artist's costumes of Westerner's dress is high top hats, lace trimminged round-necklong coat trimminged belt narrow trousers. *Another weaterner's dress is long striped patterned knee-lengh coat narrow trousers *opened top body and wearing narrow pantaloon short skirt short trousers. 2) For females: (1) Hair style is high top hair style twin high top hair style birds hair decorated high top hair style ribbon dressed high top hair style (2) Dress is knee-lengh one-piece west0-lengh jaket and knee-lengh skirt one-piece and short trousers scarf hart sleeved jaket narrow pantallons. "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" artist's costumes influenced from royal families costumes to common peoples costumes without concern of that one's social positionon peoples costumes without concern of that one's social position.
This study investigated and analyzed Sadanggut for General Namyi, Agisee Gutdang in Haengdang-dong, Dodanggut in Bonghwa Mountainto examine the type and characteristics of official hats for shaman's costumes based on Seoul village gutas a spiritualistic shaman revealing the divinity of music for gutthrough singing, dancing, divine material and official hats. Commonly worn official hats were Goggal(conical hats), Jeonlip(soldier's felt hats), and Heuklip(black hats) for Seoul village gut as the object of thisstudy. Each official hat had a close relationship with subjects for divinity and musical meaning for gut. Julip(Red hats), Jokduri(bride's headpiece), helmets, Iksubgwan(King's official hat), and Daesu(Queen's a big wig with various hairpins) were also worn. Official hats worn for Seoul village gutwere understood to symbolize divinity and raise authority and dignity to the public through aggressive appearance, exaggeration and splendor. Concretely, official hats at Seoul village gut first had roles to materialize the divinity of each music of gut. Second, recognized as a part of performance or traditional culture in present day, aggressive official hats were favored to supply splendid attraction and maximize scenes of divined heroic epic poem in gut. Third, for Seoul village gut, colors and silhouettes of modern traditional costumes were reflected pursuing partial change and focused on exaggeration and splendor to express the mirth and festival of gutwhile maintaining traditional costumes.
Up to now, image of femme fatale has undergone constant transformation to be inherited and developed through various genres of movies. With few exceptions such cases have represented sensuality of women by costumes with the most distinctive and exaggerated sexuality. Temptresses in movies are mostly drawn as extravagant and gorgeous one or a gloomy and dreary woman. Such an image is reinforced with make-up, hair style, accessories, attitude and manner of talking. The movie 'Chicago' is a musical film that crosses the boundaries of reality and fantasy with dancing and singing. Its lighting, stage setting, powerful and sexy dancing augmented already exaggerated and sensual costumes. Following is the analysis of costumes for two heroines as images of femme fatale. Strong contrast of color among black, red and blue on see-through & stickingly tight body suit signifies liberal mind and arrogant charisma of Velma. The contrast, haughty gestures, cropped black hair and thick makeups represent sex appeal, aggressive image, and fearlessly determined character of femme fatale. Roxie wears decent dresses in front of public and gorgeous stage costume in fantasy to convey two images of bad girl and angel. Her body suit, showing off lustering materials and dazzling bead decoration, is rather loose but still displays her bodyline to emphasize sexiness for representation of desire in fantasy. Chastity and innocence are implied with the decency of dresses in reality. They were specially chosen to draw public sympathy and indicate cunning disguise of Roxy who desperately wants to realize her desire. These dauntless costumes, which sufficiently express inside aspirations of Velma and Roxie later denote open and realistic social yearning rather than fatal desire hidden behind sensual beauty. It doesn't exist as imperfect, unrealistic and socially disdainful ambition as the image of femme fatale of paintings and movies did before in history. Femme fatale is expressed with deep cleavage, silk dresses that explicitly display bodyline, sexiness of mesh stockings with garter belts. All of these won't be utilized as a negative tool to seduce and destroy someone anymore but rather, they should represent rightful and fair nature of humans such as men's curiosity who secretly steal a look at them or female sexuality that women spontaneously want to show off.
본 웹사이트에 게시된 이메일 주소가 전자우편 수집 프로그램이나
그 밖의 기술적 장치를 이용하여 무단으로 수집되는 것을 거부하며,
이를 위반시 정보통신망법에 의해 형사 처벌됨을 유념하시기 바랍니다.
[게시일 2004년 10월 1일]
이용약관
제 1 장 총칙
제 1 조 (목적)
이 이용약관은 KoreaScience 홈페이지(이하 “당 사이트”)에서 제공하는 인터넷 서비스(이하 '서비스')의 가입조건 및 이용에 관한 제반 사항과 기타 필요한 사항을 구체적으로 규정함을 목적으로 합니다.
제 2 조 (용어의 정의)
① "이용자"라 함은 당 사이트에 접속하여 이 약관에 따라 당 사이트가 제공하는 서비스를 받는 회원 및 비회원을
말합니다.
② "회원"이라 함은 서비스를 이용하기 위하여 당 사이트에 개인정보를 제공하여 아이디(ID)와 비밀번호를 부여
받은 자를 말합니다.
③ "회원 아이디(ID)"라 함은 회원의 식별 및 서비스 이용을 위하여 자신이 선정한 문자 및 숫자의 조합을
말합니다.
④ "비밀번호(패스워드)"라 함은 회원이 자신의 비밀보호를 위하여 선정한 문자 및 숫자의 조합을 말합니다.
제 3 조 (이용약관의 효력 및 변경)
① 이 약관은 당 사이트에 게시하거나 기타의 방법으로 회원에게 공지함으로써 효력이 발생합니다.
② 당 사이트는 이 약관을 개정할 경우에 적용일자 및 개정사유를 명시하여 현행 약관과 함께 당 사이트의
초기화면에 그 적용일자 7일 이전부터 적용일자 전일까지 공지합니다. 다만, 회원에게 불리하게 약관내용을
변경하는 경우에는 최소한 30일 이상의 사전 유예기간을 두고 공지합니다. 이 경우 당 사이트는 개정 전
내용과 개정 후 내용을 명확하게 비교하여 이용자가 알기 쉽도록 표시합니다.
제 4 조(약관 외 준칙)
① 이 약관은 당 사이트가 제공하는 서비스에 관한 이용안내와 함께 적용됩니다.
② 이 약관에 명시되지 아니한 사항은 관계법령의 규정이 적용됩니다.
제 2 장 이용계약의 체결
제 5 조 (이용계약의 성립 등)
① 이용계약은 이용고객이 당 사이트가 정한 약관에 「동의합니다」를 선택하고, 당 사이트가 정한
온라인신청양식을 작성하여 서비스 이용을 신청한 후, 당 사이트가 이를 승낙함으로써 성립합니다.
② 제1항의 승낙은 당 사이트가 제공하는 과학기술정보검색, 맞춤정보, 서지정보 등 다른 서비스의 이용승낙을
포함합니다.
제 6 조 (회원가입)
서비스를 이용하고자 하는 고객은 당 사이트에서 정한 회원가입양식에 개인정보를 기재하여 가입을 하여야 합니다.
제 7 조 (개인정보의 보호 및 사용)
당 사이트는 관계법령이 정하는 바에 따라 회원 등록정보를 포함한 회원의 개인정보를 보호하기 위해 노력합니다. 회원 개인정보의 보호 및 사용에 대해서는 관련법령 및 당 사이트의 개인정보 보호정책이 적용됩니다.
제 8 조 (이용 신청의 승낙과 제한)
① 당 사이트는 제6조의 규정에 의한 이용신청고객에 대하여 서비스 이용을 승낙합니다.
② 당 사이트는 아래사항에 해당하는 경우에 대해서 승낙하지 아니 합니다.
- 이용계약 신청서의 내용을 허위로 기재한 경우
- 기타 규정한 제반사항을 위반하며 신청하는 경우
제 9 조 (회원 ID 부여 및 변경 등)
① 당 사이트는 이용고객에 대하여 약관에 정하는 바에 따라 자신이 선정한 회원 ID를 부여합니다.
② 회원 ID는 원칙적으로 변경이 불가하며 부득이한 사유로 인하여 변경 하고자 하는 경우에는 해당 ID를
해지하고 재가입해야 합니다.
③ 기타 회원 개인정보 관리 및 변경 등에 관한 사항은 서비스별 안내에 정하는 바에 의합니다.
제 3 장 계약 당사자의 의무
제 10 조 (KISTI의 의무)
① 당 사이트는 이용고객이 희망한 서비스 제공 개시일에 특별한 사정이 없는 한 서비스를 이용할 수 있도록
하여야 합니다.
② 당 사이트는 개인정보 보호를 위해 보안시스템을 구축하며 개인정보 보호정책을 공시하고 준수합니다.
③ 당 사이트는 회원으로부터 제기되는 의견이나 불만이 정당하다고 객관적으로 인정될 경우에는 적절한 절차를
거쳐 즉시 처리하여야 합니다. 다만, 즉시 처리가 곤란한 경우는 회원에게 그 사유와 처리일정을 통보하여야
합니다.
제 11 조 (회원의 의무)
① 이용자는 회원가입 신청 또는 회원정보 변경 시 실명으로 모든 사항을 사실에 근거하여 작성하여야 하며,
허위 또는 타인의 정보를 등록할 경우 일체의 권리를 주장할 수 없습니다.
② 당 사이트가 관계법령 및 개인정보 보호정책에 의거하여 그 책임을 지는 경우를 제외하고 회원에게 부여된
ID의 비밀번호 관리소홀, 부정사용에 의하여 발생하는 모든 결과에 대한 책임은 회원에게 있습니다.
③ 회원은 당 사이트 및 제 3자의 지적 재산권을 침해해서는 안 됩니다.
제 4 장 서비스의 이용
제 12 조 (서비스 이용 시간)
① 서비스 이용은 당 사이트의 업무상 또는 기술상 특별한 지장이 없는 한 연중무휴, 1일 24시간 운영을
원칙으로 합니다. 단, 당 사이트는 시스템 정기점검, 증설 및 교체를 위해 당 사이트가 정한 날이나 시간에
서비스를 일시 중단할 수 있으며, 예정되어 있는 작업으로 인한 서비스 일시중단은 당 사이트 홈페이지를
통해 사전에 공지합니다.
② 당 사이트는 서비스를 특정범위로 분할하여 각 범위별로 이용가능시간을 별도로 지정할 수 있습니다. 다만
이 경우 그 내용을 공지합니다.
제 13 조 (홈페이지 저작권)
① NDSL에서 제공하는 모든 저작물의 저작권은 원저작자에게 있으며, KISTI는 복제/배포/전송권을 확보하고
있습니다.
② NDSL에서 제공하는 콘텐츠를 상업적 및 기타 영리목적으로 복제/배포/전송할 경우 사전에 KISTI의 허락을
받아야 합니다.
③ NDSL에서 제공하는 콘텐츠를 보도, 비평, 교육, 연구 등을 위하여 정당한 범위 안에서 공정한 관행에
합치되게 인용할 수 있습니다.
④ NDSL에서 제공하는 콘텐츠를 무단 복제, 전송, 배포 기타 저작권법에 위반되는 방법으로 이용할 경우
저작권법 제136조에 따라 5년 이하의 징역 또는 5천만 원 이하의 벌금에 처해질 수 있습니다.
제 14 조 (유료서비스)
① 당 사이트 및 협력기관이 정한 유료서비스(원문복사 등)는 별도로 정해진 바에 따르며, 변경사항은 시행 전에
당 사이트 홈페이지를 통하여 회원에게 공지합니다.
② 유료서비스를 이용하려는 회원은 정해진 요금체계에 따라 요금을 납부해야 합니다.
제 5 장 계약 해지 및 이용 제한
제 15 조 (계약 해지)
회원이 이용계약을 해지하고자 하는 때에는 [가입해지] 메뉴를 이용해 직접 해지해야 합니다.
제 16 조 (서비스 이용제한)
① 당 사이트는 회원이 서비스 이용내용에 있어서 본 약관 제 11조 내용을 위반하거나, 다음 각 호에 해당하는
경우 서비스 이용을 제한할 수 있습니다.
- 2년 이상 서비스를 이용한 적이 없는 경우
- 기타 정상적인 서비스 운영에 방해가 될 경우
② 상기 이용제한 규정에 따라 서비스를 이용하는 회원에게 서비스 이용에 대하여 별도 공지 없이 서비스 이용의
일시정지, 이용계약 해지 할 수 있습니다.
제 17 조 (전자우편주소 수집 금지)
회원은 전자우편주소 추출기 등을 이용하여 전자우편주소를 수집 또는 제3자에게 제공할 수 없습니다.
제 6 장 손해배상 및 기타사항
제 18 조 (손해배상)
당 사이트는 무료로 제공되는 서비스와 관련하여 회원에게 어떠한 손해가 발생하더라도 당 사이트가 고의 또는 과실로 인한 손해발생을 제외하고는 이에 대하여 책임을 부담하지 아니합니다.
제 19 조 (관할 법원)
서비스 이용으로 발생한 분쟁에 대해 소송이 제기되는 경우 민사 소송법상의 관할 법원에 제기합니다.
[부 칙]
1. (시행일) 이 약관은 2016년 9월 5일부터 적용되며, 종전 약관은 본 약관으로 대체되며, 개정된 약관의 적용일 이전 가입자도 개정된 약관의 적용을 받습니다.