• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.48-57
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examine the inconvenience when putting on stretchable pants and to analyze the whole actual conditions of making of the lining fabrics. For this study, we conducted a survey of women in their twenties and collected the basic data and master pattern through material of a woman's wear brand and the interview and questionnaires. The results of this study were as follows. First, the survey result for the woman consumers it showed that the most uncomfortable problem about the lining of pants was not sufficient stretch as much as the out-shell. Secondly, it was shown that many brands(46.7%) were using the lining fabrics of stretch clothes mixed with 'non-stretch fabrics' and 'stretch fabrics'. The result of lining pattern making for the stretch pants showed that the ease of the lining fabrics was 0 to 4cm in the hip girth more than out-shell. The ease in crotch width was 0 to 1.3cm for lining fabrics. But in the stretch lining fabrics the ease for front crotch width was 0 to 1cm more than out-shell. The lengths of crotch rising were -0.7 to 1.3cm for the non-stretch lining fabrics and -1 to 1cm for the stretch lining fabrics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.1165-1178
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• 2010

This study is aimed at developing low waist slacks pattern with high satisfaction measurements and beauty for the tween generation girls. For this study, the research method was as follows. By extracting and analyzing industrial and educational slacks pattern, beautiful and motion-suitable slacks pattern will be created. This study presents the ideal slacks pattern that has great fit to tween generation girls by comparing and analyzing the previous 2 slacks pattern studies and the real clothing test. The constructed pattern in the 1st step was modified and adjusted from the best industrial patterns' the location of waist line, waist line gradient, rear waist bottom crotch, hip bottom crotch, dart length, the ease of hip girth, the fitness of rear bottom crotch line which were not well-estimated. The 2nd step was appearance and movement test based on the 1st study. In The 3rd step, the 2nd step was chosen as the final slacks study pattern for its superior appearance & movement satisfaction comparing with other patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.13-24
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to set up an effective marketing strategy targeting college women by researching the relationship between weight control behavior and satisfaction with fit of apparel. The results showed that 1) 85.5% of the college women participated in weight control behavior, and 53.5% of them wanted to lose more than 3kg of their weight, 2) both body cathexis and fit satisfaction of college women were generally low. College women were less satisfied with their body and fit of apparel according to the increase of weight control degree. The weight control parts and unsatisfied body parts were almost matched : thigh, abdomen, hip, calf, and weight. The unsatisfied fit of apparel parts were also found to be thigh, hip, abdomen, crotch, pant length that matched each parts, 3) fit satisfaction of neckline, shoulder, midriff, hip, crotch, thigh, calf, and skirt length decreased according to the increase of weight control degree, and 4) weight control group which wanted to lose weight at neck, shoulder, arm, breast, waist, abdomen, hip, thigh, and calf also had low fit satisfaction of neckline, shoulder, armhole, sleeve, breast, waist, abdomen, midriff, hip, thigh, crotch, calf, and skirt length in clothing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.223-237
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• 2015

This study is to compare the pattern making methods of men's jeans and to analyze sizes of parts while also evaluating the appearance and fit according to a 3D virtual garment simulation. Five types of patterns are selected for the analysis. For the appearance evaluation, the study conducted a virtual clothing simulation, created a perspective drawing, and applied Clothing pressure to each test outfit. First, according to the pattern comparisons, A and D had the shortest crotch length, while B had the longest; B had the narrowest crotch width, while C had the widest; C had the greatest waist circumference, and B had the smallest; C had the greatest knee and hem circumference, while E had the smallest. Second, according to the appearance evaluation, E pants had the highest rating overall for the waist, crotch, knee, and hem comfort; A pants had the highest rating for the yoke line end and placement; and C pants had the highest rating for the side seam line. According to the correlation analysis, ease of the waist, hips, hem and thighs were important factors (in that order) in determining the overall appearance of the jean pants.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.141-157
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• 2013

In this study, we analyzed the figure type and lower-body size of Shanghai and Hong Kong adult women in their early twenties using the data obtained from 3D whole body scanners. We also provided concrete information related to women's lower bodies, in terms of crotch width, crotch length, inseam, outseam, slope of waist, etc., among women in Shanghai and Hong Kong. The result may be useful to the Chinese apparel industry when designing trouser pants for adult women. According to the results of the factor analysis for categorizing the body shape of the lower half, 5 factors were obtained: obesity of the lower half factor, height of the lower half factor, length from waist to the crotch factor, factor related to legs, and shape of the abdomen factor. After performing a cluster analysis according to the factor analysis, three clusters were set: Cluster 1 was represented as the lower half growth type, which has a high value in height of the lower half factor and grows in the abdomen part. Cluster 2 was represented as thin legs type, which has a low value in most part compared to the length of leg bones and factors about legs that have high value. Cluster 3 was represented as the obesity type having a high value in the obesity of the lower half factor. Overall, thin legs type achieved a high rate in Shanghai adult women and obesity type received a high rate in adult women living in Hong Kong.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제35권2호
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• pp.136-145
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• 2011

This study identifies methods to design patterns for jeans that are suitable for women in their twenties. Five patterns suggested by previous researchers were used to draw the same size of jeans (waist 67 and hip 91). The author compared and analyzed the measurements and shapes of the patterns, ranging from waist to crotch. Samples were produced based on these patterns and then tests were conducted to observe the dynamic functions and exteriors of the samples. The dynamic functions observed in this study include walking, ascending stairs, descending stairs and sitting on chairs. The results of the current study are as follow. The best evaluated pattern in terms of exteriors is the one where the hips and thighs are tightest compared to other patterns and where the back part is wider than the front part. This pattern also received high evaluations in dynamic functions due to comfort when walking. Regarding ascending or descending stairs, the tests found that all its parts (except the front crotch) are more comfortable than those of any other patterns. All these results show that a comfortable fit and easy movement is possible when the crotch width of the back is broader than the hip width so that the hips are comfortably supported.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제33권5호
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• pp.741-751
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• 2009

In order to design and develop the various silhouette of pants pattern for standardized pants patterns, this study is to classify the pants style by the silhouette and to characterize each pants pattern which are classified. Recent 37 ready-made pants patterns of various style were collected in order to analyze their silhouette from April to July 2007. Measurement of each region of the pants pattern were compared and analysed. After analyse the standard deviation, coefficient of variance, minimum, maximum, range about the measurement of each region of the pants pattern, major pattern design factors were extracted. Five major factors are the angle of center front line and center back line, the crotch extension, the position of center back line against center front line, the curvature of center back line, and amount of waist dart. As a result, pants style were grouped as the culottes, formal, basic and tight style after considering the extracted design factors, and analysing correlation, degree of dispersion of the measurement by part. As the silhouette of pants classification from culotte to tight, the fits are closer to the figure, crotch depth increases, crotch extensions are shorter, and angle of the center back increases. The shape of the connected front and back center lines is U-shape for culotte and is closer to V-shape as the silhouette becomes tight.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제45권3호
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• pp.477-494
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• 2021

This study examined four subjects with close to average body-size values in four stages based on the average BMI value of middle-aged women aged 45 to 59 years. The first experimental pants was developed with two kinds of educational materials pants pattern. After using a clothing-suitability evaluation to identify problems, a pants pattern suitable for the body shape of middle-aged women was developed by modifying and supplementing the initial design. The fit assessment revealed that pattern A had a problem with wrinkles in the hip and thigh areas due to the long crotch length, and pattern B had a short bottom length, which caused the bottom to curl in toward the groin or for the bottom to stick at the hips. The second experimental pants was developed to address these issues and overall satisfaction with the dimensions was higher than for the first educational pattern. The proper front and rear length extensions satisfied movement functionality and appearance requirements, and increasing the gradient of the back centerline-rather than expanding the width of the back crotch-improved the functionality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제38권6호
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• pp.873-886
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• 2014

This study conducted a survey on jean pants that targeted males in the 20s in order to select preferred brands for skinny jean pants. Preliminary data for the pattern development of skinny jean pants was presented through functionality evaluation, appearance evaluation and pattern analysis. The results were as follows. 1. The result of survey targeting males in the 20s to select the design and brand name of jean pants showed that skinny jean pants were selected as the most favorite type of jean pants to wear; in addition, non-brand products and brand names such as Uniqlo and Levi's were also preferred. 2. The result of functionality evaluation showed that L brand received a high score in all items except for items regarding the knee circumference and mid-thigh circumference, S brand received a high score as well as a low score, and N brand received a low score in general. The result of appearance evaluation showed that L brand for the waist height and waist circumference, N brand for the brand crotch circumference, posterior crotch length and knee circumference, and S brand and N brand for the length of pants were preferred. 3. The result of pattern measurements analysis from the result of functionality evaluation showed that L brand provided a large pattern measurement for the waist height, L brand provided less ease due to small pattern measurements for waist circumference; in addition, N brand for the knee circumference and mid-thigh circumference were preferred. 4. The analysis result shows that a ease of 5cm based on the belly band which is 3.5cm below the belt width is proper for the waist circumference when designing a skinny jean pant pattern and 4cm for the hip circumference and 32.5cm for the ease of crotch circumference are proper, -0.4-0cm for the ease of mid-thigh circumference and knee circumference in consideration of human body measurements; therefore, 80.1-80.5cm for inseam as the length from the crotch height to the leg length, 25.7cm for vertical hip length and 53.0cm for crotch length are proper.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제35권1호
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• pp.26-36
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• 2011

The study analyzes the development of slim-fit formal pants patterns for middle-aged men. This study suggests a new pattern that complements the problems of the existing fit on the basis of the standard nude size for middle-aged men with lower garments through the analyses of one-tuck pants patterns from 5 popular brands. As a result, the waistline is lowered by 0.8cm out of consideration for the waist circumference. The crotch extension is reduced by 1.5cm, the back crotch length is revised, the center back waist point is raised by 0.9cm, and the hip line is straightened. The slim-fit is perfected of the new lines from the thigh to knee-line.