• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.551-561
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• 2003

The regulations for costume were set to improve people's moral fiber and cultural standards. In the 17th and 18th century, the main aim of this regulation was to prohibit luxury. But being the turning point to a modem state, with breaking social status and development of commerce, industry, and the mind of imitation, regulation for luxury wasn't enforced, but rather it brought many revolutionary changes in costume. Restraining human impulse to express beauty was no longer subject to regulation. Therefore, people started to recognize the human figure with shorter Jegory(저고리) and strengthened ceremonial capacity by broadening po's(포) sleeves. The silk fabrics were the most popular fabric during this era, special patterns were added for decoration and also for blessings. Complementary colors were used for contrast on the collar (깃), cuffs (끝동), Gyotrnagi (곁마기), and sash (고름). This color composition gave a younger and more active look. And with red stripes on the sleeves, it emphasized the beauty of the color arrangements as well as providing protection from the devil.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.217-244
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• 1997

This study is about the Korean Jockey's uniform, etc. and horse riding costume as the traditional riding culture grows. I studied informations from the Korea Racing Association's equestrian park, equine museum and Seoul Racecourse Trainers & Jockey's Association. The international regulations of riding costume are compared with Korean regulations, and I consulted some reference books, materials of sports wear and catalogues of some brands regarding horse equipment. The contents includes ; 1. Analysis of informations about horse racing 2. Study of racing, for detail comparative analysis on the following aspects ; -Symbolism, riding costume of jockey, that is, color·pattern·and some formal designs. 3. Suggestion for reasonable and fashionable riding costumes. In the aspects of design, there have not been any historical records, and material adjustments about riding costume in Korea. Therefore we should make more efforts to do developing our traditional costume culture. The result o this study is as follows ; 1. Riding is the sport of etiquette and manners. 2. Most of riding wears are the casual wear centered foreign licenced brands. 3. Study and investment upon specialized material development and processing technology are in demand 4. The need of the consumers are to be satisfied by the quality improvement of the native products design. In addition, we perform to horse racing which is fine play and leisure sports in current society. The horse riding will be a popular sports such as golf, wind surfing, skiing, etc. with the period including lots of kinds of leisure.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.1-9
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• 1981

The object of this study lies in reviewing of the western costume history in the light of the negative regulations concerning costumes and adornments. Readings related with the subject lead to the following findings; 1. the principal purpose of the sumptuary laws has relationship with the social stratification of the feudalism and the frequency of their occurrence is related with the formation of feudal system, its decline, the appearance of imperial regimes and the start of civil revolutions. 2. Sumptuary regulations spread westward with the flow of civilization, eg., in the sequence of Italy, swiss, France, Britain and new world. 3. Sumptuary laws are also found in abundance in the english colonies of America, and their object seems to be rather of the moral concern than class distinction of economical restriction.4. The reviewed sumptuary regulations are concerned with : A. Material gold or silver clothes, silks, ermine, marten or miniver furs, velvets, laces and embroies. B. Colors-Purple, scarlet and red. Other colors do not show consistent pattern of color-status symbol; C. Form-Length and width of headdresses, shoes, collars, trains or hoops. E. numbers of dresses allowed to be worn.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.748-761
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• 2008

This study was initiated out of necessity to inquire into the trend of costume regulation between the mid-15th century and mid-17th century, and what influence the change of dress and its ornaments had on the people at the time. As for the resources this study was based on, the True Record of Joseon Dynasty, which was the historical record of official compilation, was used as basic material, and the excavated relics at the time were referred to. The forbidden dress and ornaments mentioned in the records from the time of King Seonjong to the time of King Hyeonjong were classified into textiles, clothes, ornaments and dresses, according to the objects. It was designed to identify the laws and ordinances or regulations enacted by the state and the contents of discussions, which were caused by the extensive consumption of silk gauze and fabrics and the luxury in dress and ornaments, and the phenomenon induced by the consumption desire of the social class with economic power, and to help understand the cause. So to speak, the law and ordinance or regulations were established to solve the social problems caused by the failure in controlling dress and ornaments wearing based on social position, during the process in which the king and court officials were making effort to intensify their political power in each regime.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.7
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• pp.115-126
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• 1983

Myun Bok originated in China was introduced into Korea in ancient times. Some evidences show that it had settlled down as our own official robe already under Koryo Dynasty. And Koryo made her own regulations on Myun Bok. Kook Cho O Rye Eui(國朝五禮儀) of Choson Dynasty has comparatively detailed explanations on the way of cutting and shapes and materials. And the regulations are modeled after those of Ming China. But it has been impossible to know whether the regulations of Kook Cho O Rye Eui were strictly kept or not, because we have not enough remains through which to see it. And then we got very useful materials, Eui kue(儀軌), which are well known but have not been used in studying the history of costumes. Every Kook Chang Do Gam Eui Gue(國葬都監儀軌) have the provision of the so-called Pok Wan(服玩) set which includes the imitations or the full set of Myun Bok. And the provisions show us the illustrations colored in detail which help us understand the real shapes and the transformations of Myun Bok. After surveying the Pok wan provisions, author arrived at conclusions as follow; 1) Myun Boks are not always made in the same shape and colors. 2) The Provisions of Kook Cho O Rye Eui were not always kept strictly due to the lack of detailed directions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.61-73
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• 1997

Kon-myuh was worn by the ancient Chinese and Korean rulers as ceremonial dress during special rituals such as worshipping heaven and ancestors marriage or funerals. kon-myun consists of two major parts-Myun and kon-bok (the main bodypiece) as well as other articles of clothing(skirt footgear etc), There were regulations set in ancient books describing in detail the make of the kon-myun number of ryu and symbol to be used all which applied to each ruler depending on rank and status. This study is aimed at examining the consistency of the korean and Chinese in following the regula-tions as seen in relics which have been recovered from the past. Based on historical findings it seems that Korean Kon-myun came to Korea from China during the Three Kingdoms period. It was also worn in the Koryo and Chosun Dynas-ties and the Taehan Empire. In studying Konmyun in Korea the researcher studied a book from the early Chosun dynasty, Kukjo-oryeuiseory and a book from the late Chosun Dynasty Kukjo-sangrye-bopyun to find the guidelines and rules applying to the Kon-myun tradition. Slight difference were found across time in the supplementary articles of clothing as seen in Uigwe Pokwan-doseols explanations and drawings of Kon-myun. The researcher used uigwes of funerals of kings of the Chosun Dynasty and observed change over this period of time. However there was a clear consist-ency: the king's Kon-myun consisted of 9ryu-myun 9chang-bok while that of the prince consisted of 8ryu-myun 7chang-bok. For the Taechan Empire the researcher used Tae-han Yae-jun which shows the emperor's kon-myun to have consisted of 12ryu-myun 12chang-bok. To study how the regulations were put into practice relics were uncovered from the periods being studied. A portrait of King Ik-Jong remnants from King Ko-jong's Kon-bok and a photograph of Emperor Sun-jong all were in close adherence to the regulations outlined in the books. In China Kon-myun was worn by emperors from the Han to the Ching Dynastices. The researcher investigated Kon-myun es-pecially in the Ming Dynasty. The Kon-myun regulations as read in Tai-ming-hui-chan changed through all four periods. To study the faithfulness of practice to low Ding-ling the tomb of Emperor Shin-jong who ruled during a period of the Ming Dynasty was unearthed and the remains of the Emperor's Kon-myun were analyzed. The Kon-myun consisted of 12ryu-myuh 18chang-bok and there were other differences I color symbols and wearing method when compared to the regulations. It can be concluded that the Chinese Kon-myun tradition was not in strict adher-ence to the regulations established by law books. This is in contrast to the Korean Kon-myun tradition which showed little devi-ation. Further study is needed to understand why there was this difference in tradition and ritual.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.4
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• pp.109-123
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• 2015

The object of this research is to take a bilateral look into cultural exchanges of the Netherlands and Japan through the East India Company and thereby improve the general understanding in regards to the exchanges of costume cultures between the East and the West. The study conducted qualitative analyses on features of contemporary costumes of the Netherlands and Japan from 1602 to 1799 by investigating the secondary sources, such as the histories of costumes, arts, and literature. The results are as follows; the traditional sleeves of the Japanese Kimono were basically cut out in a straight line. However due to the growing popularity of the kimono home gown in Europe, the producers of the kimono in India as well as several other European countries modified them into western-style sleeves. Regarding the costumes of the Netherlands, which were introduced to Japan, the study found that Japan imported Dutch fabrics, instead of specific clothing items. In Japan, costume controls and anti-conspicuous consumption regulations among social classes including a closed-door policy had negative effects on both developments and exchanges of costumes of the country. However, when it comes to the Jinbaori, a costume for ruling classes, Japan was open to using fabrics, patterns and designs of the West. In light of what have been discussed so far, the study confirmed that the costume exchanges between the two countries started long after their first business of the general cultural exchanges. Though it is clear that the advancements in the natural sciences that the Japanese made can be attributed to the West, Japan was one of the nations that impacted the costume cultures in Europe.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.121-135
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• 2003

This paper is about the dress styles during the 16th century of the Chosun dynasty, just before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, through painting-Kiyeonghoido. In the Chosun period, dress styles played an important role in representing the differences in social status. The most remarkable signs of social standing are the hair ornaments. Officials in ranks, noksas, and seoris are wearing a same, a yugakpyeongjeongeon and a mugakpyeongjeongeon respectively. The head ornament for musicians in high ranks is a samo, and, for those in low ranks a hood or a heuklip. Accordingly, head ornaments were important articles among apparels, and especially ripja was an article that sensitively reflected the contemporary fashion. Such a trend also influenced the common people's styles of dress. Thus, the style of the heuklip worn by the chamberlain in Kiyeonghoido resembled of yangban's. Actual official uniforms also diverged from the specifications for them. Sangboks were red for both dangsanggwans and danghagwans, but their ranks were marked by the material of their dress rather than by the breast plates. Dress styles change over time as the society members influence and are influenced by each other. Therefore, owing to the social characteristics of a hierarchical society, dress styles are distinctive according to the wearers' social standings and roles, and various dress styles emerge that deviate from regulations. The significance of the present paper is to review the diversity of the dress styles during the 16th century of the Chosun dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.107-120
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• 2016

This study examines functions in traditional Korean special costumes in accordance with the climatic factors of the Korean peninsula. The study focused on clothes worn by commoners during the Joseon dynasty. Climate change has been a major global issue in recent times, and it has been a hot topic in social, cultural, scientific, economic, and industrial communities. Studies have been conducted regarding the rapidly changing climate, and finding ways to cope with unusual temperatures. This thesis studies the development of special costumes in preparation for unusual climates, and requirements of the costume in accordance with the climatic factors, as well as the direction of its development. Its biggest significance lies in collecting and organizing the research data on special costume studies, and on costumes of the commoners, which have been fairly insufficient up to this point. After the Little Ice Age, the Joseon Dynasty period faced poor external environment due to unusual temperatures. The results of studying the costumes of the commoners are as follows: The climate of the Korean peninsula displayed different characteristics depending on the season, so the form, material, and appearance of the seasonal clothing items showed clear differences, and the difference in the crops cultivated according to the climate led to difference in material and material preference shown in the costumes. This meant that costumes differed based on region. In addition, difference in social hierarchy, regulations on costume according to class, and farming oriented social background during the period of Joseon dynasty slowed the development of costumes of commoners, but appears to have had a positive effect on the development of special costumes. We anticipate more succeeding studies on costumes of the commoners and special costumes in the future. We hope more costumes that can wisely respond to the approaching changes in temperature in the Korean peninsula can be designed via modernization of traditional Korean special costumes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.5-21
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• 2001

The intellectual properties right are becoming very critical issues in domestic fashion industries and also international trade. Although it is true that intellectual properties rights are commonly infringed in fashion industry, none of researches has been done for this matter. The present study is to analyze the patterns of infringement by case analysis, which was limited to trademark and trade dress. As a result, in case of trademarks, counterfeiting was relatively clear case, but it is generally investigated by prosecutes whereas the judgement of similar trademark has been taken by legal lawsuit. In case of industrial design(trade dress) most of disputes were related to textile design and modified Korean tradition dress. Reflecting the short history of protection of intellectual properties rights many informations and legal regulations should be established by te government and by the association of fashion related industry.