• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.945-956
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• 2011

The purpose for this paper is to categorize and analyze the aesthetic characteristics of graphic factors in contemporary fashion design by media source. Focused on play-instinct visual expression in contemporary fashion design and adopted media source following the way of communication design. A variety of literatures and online sites for graphic factors in contemporary fashion was studied. The standard of media source is classified as graphic media-source: photography media-source, typography media-source, illustration media-source. With this standard, expressed ways are as followings. First, graphic media-source in play-instinct expressional fashion design is mostly borrowing existed character or using designer's brand logo. Second, photography media-source in play-instinct expressional fashion design is placed photograph of social issued people in front of shirt. Third, typography media-source in play-instinct expressional contemporary fashion design is mostly expressed social messages or designer's name in brand. Fourth, illustration media-source is the best way to express play-instinct visual expression. Based on these, aesthetic characteristics of graphic factor in contemporary fashion by media source are classified as three: social words, playfulness and information transference. Frequency ratio using media source per aesthetic characteristics is different and these are able to categorize expression way and image feature. In conclusion, expressional way of graphic factors in contemporary fashion design became diverse as social and cultural changing. Frequency of graphic factor use in contemporary fashion is increased than before. This paper suggested that fashion design is one of the way of communicating with people and should be analyzed graphic factors in contemporary fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.475-487
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• 2008

The purposes of this study are to find the values of playful design by exploring what forms of playful expressions and characteristics appear in the haute couture collections that feature "high culture" other than street fashion or popular fashion and to help expand the scope to include newer and more creative design ideas. Concerning theoretical background, the study reviewed the literature to understand the concept of playfulness and see what types of playfulness there are and how it is expressed. Based on the results, the study examined the features of playfulness by analyzing the works of haute couture collections which since 2000. The results can be summarized as follows: First, designers in the haute couture collections constructed their own identities by expressing their instinctive desire for playfulness through graffiti such as cartoons or scribbles and delivering direct and specific messages or ambiguous and symbolic meanings through such things. Second, the haute couture collections revealed the human body in a transformed or distorted shape through deformation of clothes or accessories presented brand-new dressing styles by breaking away from the past ways of dressing; and expressed playfulness intentionally with distorted materials. Third, is the "depaysement" technique. This collage technique selects all possible objects going beyond inartistic routine matters or boundaries of which we are aware and changes their positions and purposes of use to express the playfulness of "harmony in disharmony." Fourth, the haute couture collections created a feeling of playfulness by featuring parodies of retro elements, a slice of popular culture, or a variety of painting styles. Finally, like using dolls or toys as accessories or making direct use of parts of clothes, combinations between attributes given by the images of those accessories themselves and creativities found in haute couture dresses are just as fun of authoritarian bias in favor of prestigiousness.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.778-792
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• 2003

This study is to review, in the social and cultural context, the main causes for the sportism that prevails in modern fashion, and to analyze the typical expressions in the domestic fashion. Many factors attribute to the advent of sportism such as rapid development and cultural changes toward sports, increase in leisure time and abundant opportunities, new fashion materials resulting from new technologies, emerging youth culture and increasing preference for such culture, and the postmodernism. With this background, sportism, which has been appearing in the domestic fashion, falls into 5 categories as follows based on the type of its expression. “Urban Street Sportism” is affected by the new sports culture of urban young people, which is characterized such that body line is disregarded with over-sized garment in layered style without considering T.P.O. concept. “Romantic Sportism” applies colors, fabrics and details of romantic images to sporty items, or culminates the feminine and elegant sportism by using the sporty fabrics and details along with romantic items. “Vintage Sportism” is characterized by its well-refined, high quality expression of naturally worn for long time, which is affected by the postmodernism. “Urban Utility Sportism,” which is developed with such design factors as fabrics, styles, details and colors with emphasis on their utility and functionality, explicitly accommodates the changed modern life styles particularly in urban areas. Lastly, the military image, which was developed during the Iraq War along with simultaneous anti-war activities, and the peace messages, which deliver the mankind's hope for the world peace and social wellness, formulate the “Military Sportism”.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.415-432
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• 2019

The purpose of the present study was to generate a list of business ethics components according to business area for small and medium-sized fashion companies. Based on the literature review, 21 components of business ethics components were identified within five business areas. Ten CEOs(Chief Executive Officers) each participated in an in-depth interview, sharing ethical and unethical cases from their own businesses. Constant comparative analysis was used to generate important business ethics components from those cases. In results, important business ethics components for each business area are: 1) using human-friendly materials, strengthening sustainable technologies, using vegan materials, concerning safe process, and reducing waste in the material production and sourcing area, 2) enhancing an efficiency in design, developing recycle/reuse designs, avoiding to copy designs, and using messages for public interest in the product design area, 3) concerning fair-trade, reducing harmful substance, saving energy, and using ethical supply channels in the distribution and logistics area, 4) acquiring certifications, promoting consumer protection, avoiding exaggerative/false advertisements, and promoting social contributions in the management and marketing area, and 5) promoting workers' rights, complying with the law, and investing on employee educations in the labor management area. All of the ethical and unethical cases of the ten companies have involved aspects of the 21 components, thereby enhancing understandings on how each issue is being seriously considered and/or handled in the small and medium-sized fashion companies. Study findings may provide a basis for development of a research model for quantitative studies and/or educational programs related to business ethics in the fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.39-56
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to observe the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design, examine the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design in the collections of Jacquemus, and analyze their internal meanings. For research, observations were made based on the concepts and expressive characteristics of Deconstruction through prior research and literary review, and analysis was conducted focusing on the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction. The scope of analysis included a total of 605 photographs collected from a total of 17 season collections of Jacquemus from the 2013 S/S to the 2021 S/S season. The results are as follows. First, the Neo-Deconstruction of Jacquemus expresses the youth culture using bright images such as diverse colors and patterns with 'positive playfulness' and pass on positive messages with deconstructive and playful forms, such as exaggeration and reduction and recombination and reconstitution. Second, with tendencies of 'symbolic receptivity', Jacquemus gained inspiration from his own life, memories, and hometown, and attempted to express the street women of places such as southern France, Paris, and Monaco in a number of collections. Also, he proposed designs that can be worn easily by anyone, regardless of gender, and as plus size models began to become more common respect was given to the tastes and preferences of diverse individuals without distinctions based on body type or sexuality. Third, 'geometric simplicity' was generally expressed by pursuing simple and practical fashion with the addition of details, such as geometric forms including stripes or asymmetrical expressions centering around everyday material that is used in clothing. Fourth, with "open communication," Jacquemus constructed his identity by addressing the various needs of consumers based on social network services and continuously sharing his creative ideas with the public. He is gaining popularity in a unique way by responding quickly to the changing atmosphere of society.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.147-165
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to examine various types and characteristics of masks and to consider what meanings they have in the recent fashion world. To this end, this study attempts to reflect on the internal meaning of masks exhibited in fashion designers' collections rather than functional meanings. It has an implication; in that it tries to help understand the expressive needs for variety and freshness pursued by modern fashion and use the unique design development to understand the internal meanings of masks. It, therefore, examines the existing domestic and foreign literature and data about masks from a theoretical perspective, and also attempts to draw findings from the data of fashion collections which have been held since the 2000s, as well as from literature research based on books about fashion and various other media. The meanings of masks in the field of fashion are as follows: First, they express identity, by criticizing the couture fashion, through the fashion. Second, they present a new concept of body, showing an illogical and ambiguous identity in which both feminine and masculine images coexist. Third, they are media externally communicating insights about human beings' inner world, through which various messages are transferred to modern people who are attached to external appearances, and the identities possessed by designers are revealed by the masks. Fourth, they ask about a boundary between gender and sexuality, as a means to make us concentrate on the important social issue, while expressing various and new identities, like the hybrid identity. In other words, they can be found to be used as effective media in communicating fashion massages intended by fashion experimental and creative designers.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 2022

In the past 10 years, the luxury goods market growth has significantly outpaced other consumer goods categories. Its market value exceeded US $1.2 trillion globally in 2018. In response to this significant consumer demand, the product portfolio of luxury brands has been modified, as several products that previously were exclusive have now released lower-priced versions. This phenomenon is called new luxury. These new luxury products, however, have caused the democratization of the luxury that threatens the exclusivity of luxury brands. In this circumstance, luxury consumers are becoming disillusioned with the vulgarization of luxury goods and prefer exclusive luxury experiences. In order to keep pace with the changes in the luxury consumer needs and promote the brand image with a creative and luxurious connotation, luxury brands are increasingly associating with contemporary art through diverse channels. However, there is a lack of theoretical research investigating the main points to be considered when applying contemporary art to luxury brands and attempting effective brand communication. Therefore, this study aims to provide insights into the key issues for luxury brands when applying contemporary art for effective brand communication. An in-depth case study with the luxury fashion brand, Louis Vuitton, was carried out to better understand contemporary art applications and obtain analytical insights. Through the research, key insights were identified as follows: 1) setting a clear objective for art application based on an in-depth understanding for both the art and the luxury brand, 2) sending harmonized and coherent messages from all perspectives by using a variety of different communication channels, 3) providing a meaningful customer experience by considering the characteristics of contemporary art.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.394-410
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• 2023

This study aims to understand the influence of authentic marketing on the formation of trust between brands and customers and consumers' purchase intentions and to analyze the role that brand trust has in this process. In doing so, it examines the specific aspects of authentic marketing that increase brand trust and contribute to the formation of purchase intentions, which could then be leveraged as key elements of a company's marketing strategy. Data in this study was used frequency analysis and factor analysis through SPSS 26.0, and reliability analysis using Cronbach's alpha coefficient. Subsequently, confirmatory factor analysis, path model analysis, and mediated effect analysis were performed using AMOS. Finding indicate that, identity and truth in authentic marketing had a positive effect on brand trust but heritage and reality did not affect brand trust. It was also found that the factors of identity, heritage, reality, and trust did not significantly affect purchase intention. Additionally, brand trust was found to have a positive effect on purchase intention. Finally, the analysis indicates that brand trust plays a mediating role in the process of forming purchase intention through the factors of identity and truth in authentic marketing. Therefore, the core of authentic marketing is the sincere relationship between companies and consumers obtained from the clarity and integrity of messages, and in this process, mutual trust is built, which leads to product purchases. It can be surmised that the purpose of authentic marketing is to build relationships with consumers based on brand trust.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.165-184
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expanded characteristics that can be found in the fashion designs of JUUN. J. For the study, the concept and discourse related to theme expansion have been theoretically reviewed, and various types of expansive characteristics were derived by reviewing prior research related to the keyword expanded characteristics. Photo data required for the analysis were collected through the official website of JUUN. J and Vogue, a worldwide fashion magazine. The scope of the survey was limited to 983 photographs collected from 28 collections from 2009 S/S through 2022 F/W. The results are as follows. First, the expansion of the human body, which is achieved by adding an empty space between the body and the clothing or using various materials to express the volume of the body, is expressed through two different forms in the designs of JUUN. J. Second, the expansion of time expresses the combination of different timelines, the meeting of the past and present or awe toward the unpredictable future. Third, the expansion of style, which is expressed by reinterpreting existing costumes or styles, is a type of expansion' that appears individually in the fashion designs of JUUN J. Such expansion of style can be found in the military inspired designs. Fourth, the expansion of space, which diversifies our perception of space by re-recognizing the concept of space, was implemented into the works and designs of JUUN. J through the convergence of different cultural aspects. Fifth, the expansion of gender, which is expressed through the continuous exploration of the borders of gender and the delivery of social messages, has appeared in the works of JUUN J. in the form of genderless design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.7
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• pp.1215-1226
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• 1997

Textiles in Bali have traditionally played a vital role in the social economic and religious life of the people. Textiles defined the status of the individual in term of both costume and wealth. Use of the various textiles is in Balinese tradition dictated primarily by rules of the Hindu-Balinese faith. Cloths and clothing are employed in worship of God and the ancestors. Gold songket patterned textiles are perceived as symbol of wealth and prestige and provide a fitting display of affluence at important cerenlonial events. The specialized pieces of clothing, temple banners and hangings are unique to each tribal group ranging from weft -patterned textiles in Bali. The impact of Indian ideas and techniques was important in the field of textiles, and many of the characteristics in Bali's fabric design derived from Hindu-Buddhist mythology that has furnished subject-matter for songket textile art. The purpose of this study is to examine the background of Balinese culture and to define the characteristics of Hindu-Balinese textiles. The songket textile design also analyzes by examing the techniques of songket weaving and the meaning of design, pattern, and motif. Many design and motifs convey important messages significant only to those familiar with the particular social religious principle of people who have produced them. It is only by seeing cloths in their cultural context that we can begin to understand their true value and meaning.