• 복식
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• 제20권
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• pp.151-167
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to systematize the theory of the Fashion Marketing and merchandi-sing system as well as the strategy for the Mar-keting based on the related variable. Furthermore, this study deals with development of the mark-eting strategy to the relation between consumers and industry. The content conclusion on the research can be outlined as follows : 1. In order to inverstigate how the life-style of consumers affects their sense of fashion, awa-reness of brand, and decision making process of purchase, the life-style of women consumers is classified into 15 types. (1) Acording to the different life-style types, and important difference is found in the consum-ers' sense of clothes, a unique image of outfit and its own favorite image of womanliness. (2) The consumer's awareness of a particular brand has a reasonable relationship with their brand preference and possession of the brands. (3) Their is an important discrimination acco-rding to the life-style types in their brand awar-eness and preference and possesion of brands. (4) The consumers of each life-style type show noticeable difference in the decision making pro-cess of purchase including he motive of purchase, the source of information, the cause of purchase intention, price, the frequency of purchase and the degree of satisfaction of purchased goods. 2. The merchandising system and the market positioning among the fashion industry are compared and analyzed in the following terms ; (1-1) For the purpose of establishing the target market strategy, the industry uses unreasenalbe methods to analyze the life-style of the target customers and the real customers(36%) and the aging phenomenon of brands is remarkable : as much as 37% of brands show over 5 years-old age gap. (1-2) The price setting process depends highly on the cost-plus approach. (1-3) In color planning, too many colors are used in every season(the average number is 22.3) and the investigation of the consumers' favorite color is neglected. (1-4) The manufacturers of successful brands are much likely to employ the textile designer and allow them to develop the various fabrication. (1-5) The regular rate of sales in each season is extremely low(56.04%) : the rate of the succ-essful brands is relatively high at 65%, but that of the unsuccessful as low as 51%. (1-6) 47% of brands reveal the designer-orie-nted fashion merchandising system. The successful brands, on the other hand, show a high rate of merchandiser oriented system. (2) Since the brand positioning is highly cen-tered on each brand image, styles and target age, the new data are presented in this study for the new market development. (3) To set up the target market, the mapping of images between the differentiated market and the consumers is suggersted according to the market positioning of industry and 15 types of the life-styles of consumers.

• 복식
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• 제59권7호
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• pp.17-33
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to get some pieces of prior information to eventually develop high value-added fashion cultural products design using local cultural resources, to promote the cultural tourism festival. For this purpose, this study is carried out the investigation of cultural product stores and visitors' questionnaire survey. The subjects of this study were festivals which were selected as cultural tourism festival by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism from 2000 to 2008. Of them, six festivals were finally selected but food festival was excluded. The results of this study were as follows; First, the store survey was conduced to analyze the situation of the products of cultural tourism festival. The most frequent product was accessories. And a T-shirt was found to be sold every festival probably because it was the most popular item and basic item which people could buy without burden. While the most diverse kinds of products were found in the Andong, the Jinju and Gangjin were found not to develop various products. In the design motif used for cultural products, most products did not use festival or local image. The highest use of the festival and local image was found in Gangjin and Muju. The Andong and Chungju were found to sell very common products buying anywhere rather than products using local cultural resources or image. In the material of cultural products, most products use metal. And In the price of cultural products, 10,000-30,000 won was found highest. Second, the purchase conditions of cultural tourism festival visitors were examined. The visiting goal and companion of visitors was found to vary with the type of cultural tourism festival. The types of visitors were also found to have an effect on the choice of items in the purchase of cultural products sold in the festival. Only one third of respondents responded buying one and more cultural products. The purchase rate was found high in the festival where cultural product items were various and there were many products symbolizing festival or region. The most purchased item was a mobile phone hanger and the amount of purchasing cultural products was 10,000-30,000 won. The reason not to purchase cultural products was dissatisfaction with utility, originality, possibility of a present, symbolism, and price. The most important attribute in the purchase of cultural products was design, followed by symbolism, price, originality, and innovation. The highly preferred product group included clothing, miscellaneous goods, and accessories. Specifically, T-shirt was found highest. Based on these research results, it was found that the design strategy for the cultural products development should consider both regional and festival images. The items and designs of the cultural products should reflect visitors' characteristics and the price zone should be varied.

• 복식
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• 제58권2호
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• pp.62-77
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• 2008

This study aims to analyze color characteristics centered by women's suit styles that represent masculinity remarkably. Through this, it figures out color's type and continuance availability as a representing tool to express masculinity to provide useful color information which can be applied effectively to various color planning. For this research, related images were collected among women's pants suits appeared in $2004{\sim}2006's$ Paris, London, New York and Milan collection F/W that are most similar to modern man's suit. Among them, the study analyzes 319 pictures where the features of masculinity were represented effectively. The referred color values were earned by converting $L^*a^*b^*$ values measured through the color extracting tool of Computer program (Adobe Photoshop CS) and color tone characteristic were analyzed by classifying 12 color PCCS and 5 achromatic colors. The result of the study are as follows: First, based on standard of color hue and tone, in terms of color hue, PB, YR, Y were frequently shown up but G, BG series were not found much after analyzing overall women's pants suit color characteristics shown in $2004{\sim}2006$ Paris, London, New York and Milan collection. Second, the color analysis about 3years of $2004{\sim}2006$ tells that achromatic colors have been most widely used in every year. In terms of color hue, PB, YR, Y series were appeared most popular and G, BG classes weren't appeared frequently. In addition, once looking at yearly color tone distribution trend, like overall color tone distribution result, Bk, w, dkg, g, p were highly used as sequential and b, v, dp, sf, ItGy series show low distribution level. And such a distribution level of low and high in frequency has been showed continuously as a similar style. Accordingly, through the study, as a tool to express masculinity in women's suit, achromatic colors like black and white series and PB, YR, Y series color were investigated as most popular uses. And as color tones, Bk, w, dkg, g, p were used frequently.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.181-188
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• 2005

This study attempted to investigate the plastic characteristics of cyber punk fashion with a focus on fashion in the cyber punk movies in order to inquire into how the influence of the cyber punk taking the lead in the spiritual culture and way of life of the humankind in the 21th century would be expressed in fashion. For this purpose, it sought to analyze the beauty of new fashion creating the cyber environment and identify its contemporary meaning. An attempt was made to investigate the image of cyber punk fashion with a focus on fashion expressed in the cyber punk movies. As a result, the following findings were obtained: First, the image of cyber punk fashion expressed in the cyber punk movies was simplicity, which was to express the modest silhouette and details exclusive of decoration. In addition to clean and smooth gloss, it contained the modest image of resistance', not 'revolt' by borrowing the partial motive and image from existing punk fashion. The change of cyber punk fashion into the characteristic of concise, smooth external appearance brought about the restraint of its image and symbolism as well as its plastic characteristic. Second, it was characterized by the Eroticism nature of emphasizing the body line while expressing the future and modest image or exposing the body. Cyber punk fashion expressed the avant-garde image by using materials that gave a mysterious and future feelings, as well as unsymmetrical silhouette, the slit of body-conscious line, coarse cutting, the method of do-constructing and reconstructing the silhouette, the method of applying diverse underwears such as corset, brassiere and the like. Third, cyber punk fashion was marked by the nature of mined sex. It had the masculine image by using the black color containing the image of masculinity and resistance in female clothing and expressing the suit, coat and military looks giving an masculine impression. And it expressed the image of mixed sexes with the masculine image in male clothing by borrowing feminine images such as body-conscious line, widely cut neckline, floral decoration, leggings and the like. Fourth, cyber punk fashion was marked by naturalness. It was expressed as clothing made from silhouette, knit, cotton and the like in the atmosphere expressing love, comfortableness and truth. This contained the image of naturalness, a return to the primitive, that human being wanted to return to their original figure in the future element. The cyber punk movie may contain a dismal, gloomy future image on the whole, which can be overcome, and shows the possibility that it may grow into the alternative culture, not the revolting culture. The movie of 'The Fifth Element' demonstrates the meaning and role that shows the bright future image. It is thought that designers should make efforts for cyber punk fashion to perform its role in changing the gloomy future image into the bright image of society

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.111-125
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• 2006

This study measured and analyzed musical sense objectively, and visualized it to express visual effects as if watching music with the eye. For the visualization of music, we examined the concept of synesthesia and the correlation between hearing and seeing, and reviewed theoretical grounds and a number of cases necessary in reproducing musical sense visually based on synesthetic expression. Furthermore, we studied the visual elements and associated colors of rhythm to prove that visual conception of music through various approaches enable a transitional approach to aesthetic exploration and interpretation. The conclusions drawn from this research are as follows. First, classic music selected for visualization had musical characteristics highly correlated with dress design. Second, basic formative elements suggested as materials of visualization in this study were suitable in their form for expressing the rhythmic sense of music and, because they started from the most basic form, they were effective in extracting design elements. Third, when the result of the questionnaire survey, which was focused on the visualization of the rhythmic sense of the five pieces of classic music, was analyzed from the aspect of sensibility ergonomics, design elements of each piece of music were obtained in an objective and scientific way. Fourth, it was confirmed that common concepts could be derived from intangible elements such as forms and sounds observed in the rhythmic sense of music obtained from the result of the questionnaire survey. Fifth, works were made based on the results of this study and, according to the result, musical images can express sense through dress design and obtain visual effects as if watching music with the eye. Dress desist through the visualization of music in this study was an attempt to suggest that the language of music can be expressed in dress design, a visual formative language, based on synesthetic expression. Through this attempt, we confirmed the infinity of music as motives of dress design and suggested a method of aesthetic expression demanded in contemporary society that is pursuing aesthetic values.

• 복식
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• 제56권6호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to present a new viewpoint in look by closely examining fashion and look through the past, present, and future. Specifically, the concept of time is studied and fashion is considered based upon the concept of time, finally, looks in fashion related to time are analysed. For this study, the literature of retro, modern, contemporary, futuristic looks that express the past, present, and future, and the classic look, the popularity of which transcends the concept of time was considered focusing on 20th century women's fashion. Design characteristics of these looks were analyzed utilizing photographs of collection images. The results of the study are as follows: first, although the retro look of different periods regularly rotate and appear, they change and develop in new and various ways depending on the Periodic background of the time they appear in, and thus show simultaneously the cyclical and straight nature of time. Second, the modern look includes not only the moaning of time concept of the present, but also of interpreting anew the formal significance of modernism in the present. In other words, because it cyclically repeats the times of past modern periods, the look can be said to focus on the cyclical nature of time. Third, the contemporary look is a style that expresses current time most exactly as it exists, and it can be said to be the look in which current time is most vividly expressed. Fourth, the time concept in futuristic look is a subjective time that selectively accommodates and expresses the objective time of the future which has not yet come, and that can be the look's most important point. Last, the classic look possesses an objective value that transcends the concept of time, and it keeps returning, showing the cyclical nature of time. The closer this study came to the present, it could be seen that a look communicated more complex meanings, Influenced by periodic phases such as diversification, individualization, and eclecticism, and that while it could not be defined as any one look, various elements were expressed eclectically by being mixed and matched with each other, and it could utilize more natural forms, colors, and materials.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.977-990
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• 2010

Today, as individuals show their social identities and reflect their being as the members of society with a culture, an art style and communication function are stood out in fashion photographs. Accordingly, the meanings of images into text are expanded in its interpretative width through the acceptor's various terms. This researcher looked into four theories of both positions on the textuality of language and image, and considered the point of discussion on image of each theory through modern fashion photographs. First, the theory which divides language and image as auditory and visual recognitions in the textuality of language and image is limited from the view it focuses on only one side without considering the ambivalent elements of each field. For the textuality in modern fashion photographs, the observer attempts to turn it into text to give meaning to it as the recognition through five senses conforming to the acceptor's condition. Second, the theory dividing language and image into the text of time properties and spacial properties has limitation in the text, for acceptor's experience of the object appears as the structured form in time and space rather than being defined as two things like time and space. Third, the theory classifying the language and image text into conventional taste and natural taste has limitation from the view that image text is hardly an object of consistent classification in ease of recognition by the code accepted in society. Thus, this can't be fundamental approach for the understanding of the text of decoding trend represented in modern fashion photographs. Fourth, accordingly, this researcher focussed on contextual and arbitrary text of fashion photographs through the theory of Nelson Goodman which discusses image text through the differences in textuality. Basic mechanism of perceiving and recognizing and distinguish image is closely related to habit and custom like language. So, each acceptor perceives the image as a text through arbitrary interpretation obtained by individual, empirical, historical, and educational viewpoints. The textuality of modern fashion photographs aims to widen the range of diverse knowledge and understanding, transcending the regulations of simple function of existing fashion photographs. Consequently, this researcher puts forward the opinion of consistent and diverse follow-up studies on instilling meaning into fashion photographs for the understanding de-regulatory and de-constructive through various senses by avoiding only one sense-dependent fixed and regulatory properties of it.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.16-33
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• 2004

Up to now, image of femme fatale has undergone constant transformation to be inherited and developed through various genres of movies. With few exceptions such cases have represented sensuality of women by costumes with the most distinctive and exaggerated sexuality. Temptresses in movies are mostly drawn as extravagant and gorgeous one or a gloomy and dreary woman. Such an image is reinforced with make-up, hair style, accessories, attitude and manner of talking. The movie 'Chicago' is a musical film that crosses the boundaries of reality and fantasy with dancing and singing. Its lighting, stage setting, powerful and sexy dancing augmented already exaggerated and sensual costumes. Following is the analysis of costumes for two heroines as images of femme fatale. Strong contrast of color among black, red and blue on see-through & stickingly tight body suit signifies liberal mind and arrogant charisma of Velma. The contrast, haughty gestures, cropped black hair and thick makeups represent sex appeal, aggressive image, and fearlessly determined character of femme fatale. Roxie wears decent dresses in front of public and gorgeous stage costume in fantasy to convey two images of bad girl and angel. Her body suit, showing off lustering materials and dazzling bead decoration, is rather loose but still displays her bodyline to emphasize sexiness for representation of desire in fantasy. Chastity and innocence are implied with the decency of dresses in reality. They were specially chosen to draw public sympathy and indicate cunning disguise of Roxy who desperately wants to realize her desire. These dauntless costumes, which sufficiently express inside aspirations of Velma and Roxie later denote open and realistic social yearning rather than fatal desire hidden behind sensual beauty. It doesn't exist as imperfect, unrealistic and socially disdainful ambition as the image of femme fatale of paintings and movies did before in history. Femme fatale is expressed with deep cleavage, silk dresses that explicitly display bodyline, sexiness of mesh stockings with garter belts. All of these won't be utilized as a negative tool to seduce and destroy someone anymore but rather, they should represent rightful and fair nature of humans such as men's curiosity who secretly steal a look at them or female sexuality that women spontaneously want to show off.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.79-93
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze designs of exhibition clothing in terms of the use of Korean image, to review objectively contents about the use of traditional image, understand external elements of works, and give directions and basic data for future works. This study selected the total 250 works as the subject of this study among the collected data. This study classified and examined the use of Korean image found in exhibition clothing according to period, item, line and form, material, technique of expression and accessary between 1996 and 2004. The results of analysis are as follows (1) The most artworks were comprised in adaptation were Choson costume. (2) Most of them were clothing works for female. The item of chima were the most preferred in use. (3) The straight lines are used more frequently than curved lines. Forms of skirts were applied to those of silhouettes, H and A form were common. (4) In terms of materials, traditional materials such as silk, linen and cotton were commonly used. (5) Geometric patterns and plant pattern were found more often than others. (6) In terms of techniques of expression, patchwork was most frequent, quilting, embroidery and pleating were ranked second, third and fourth. (7) In accessaries and other item, gorom were most common and norigae were ranked second. (8) As Korean image has been expressed by fine parts of traditional costumes, the traditional living item, and local symbols, the range of works are becoming wider.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.49-54
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• 2007

In the 21th century, the age of image, people express and evaluate with images. Image is a symbol of a person or a thing. It simulates people's visual sense most quickly and precisely and is shared in the society. At the time, since it is acknowledged that there are few books available and lack of theoretical system with regard to image making, the purpose of this study was to get a theoretical access to image making by taking as an empirical case the case of Choi Byeongryeol, a candidate running for the congress in June 4, 1998 and combining it with theories of costume. Research methods employed here were to investigate the theoretical system of image making and fashion direction, and to analyze empirical cases. The boundary of the empirical case was limited to the candidate's fashion direction during the election period for 50 days from April 1998 to the election date June 4, 1998. The results of this study are as follows. First, personal image making aims at the establishment of one's own identity through building up an ideal image. Second, it is found that personal image making can make a complete image possible through fashion direction. Third, it is found that fashion direction functions as a symbol and communicative means with a result that the effect can penetrate to the society accurately and quickly. Fourth, it is found that fashion direction fit for a situation can enhance personal values and reinforce his or her competitive power to carry out the ultimate goals in the society. This study proved that fashion styling for personal image making expresses a person in a symbolic image, enhances his/her personal value in the society and, ultimately, contributes to the establishment of an individual's identity.