• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.893-907
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• 2001

The main purpose is to study the effects of princess lines on different body types and to disguise any imperfection by using diverse princess lines. We separated testers body shapes into specific body types, H, Y by applying both the direct and the indirect measurements. These designs were evaluated by using the point ranking system method, and then average scores were obtained from these evaluations. Following are the results of the study: 1 These are the resulting illusion effects when the shoulder width of the Princess line was fixed. When the Princess line originated from 1/3 point of the armhole, body types Y appeared to show narrow waist width. A-line silhouette appeared to display the narrowest shoulder width. When the Princess line originated from 2/3 point of the armhole, body types H and Y appeared to exhibit narrowest waist widths, and the A-line silhouette once again displayed the narrowest shoulder width. When the Princess line originated from 1/2 point of the armhole, body type H appeared to exhibit narrow width; and H-line silhouette displayed the narrowest shoulder width 2. When the Princess lines waist w'4th was fixed in order to study illusion effects of waist widths. In this experiment, locations of Princess lines and widths of the skirt were varied. When the waist width was fixed at 6.5 cm, For the H body type, the Princess line location of 1/3 point of the armhole in H-line silhouette design exhibited the narrowest waist width. For the Y body type in A-line silhouette design, the Princess line locations of 1/3 and 1/2 points of the armhole exhibited the narrowest waist width because it displayed the hourglass effect. When the waist width was fixed at 10 cm, H body type did not exhibit any significant differences between designs. For Y body type, A-line silhouette design with the Princess line origination point at 1/3 down the armhole exhibited the narrowest waist width. 3. The illusion effects of the hip were studied by fixating the width of the skirt and varying the locations of Princess line and waist widths. In H-line skirt silhouette designs, all two body types exhibited narrow hips when the Princess line origination points were at 1/3 and 1/2 way down the armhole. For A-line skirt silhouette, H body type exhibited narrow hips when narrow waist design with the Princess line originating from 1/2 point in the shoulder was shown. Y body type exhibited narrow hips when narrow waist design with the Princess line originating from 1/3 point of the armhole and 2/3 point of the shoulder. 4. With both waist and skirt widths fixed, all two body types exhibited taller and slender postures when the Princess line originated from the shoulder compare to the armhole.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.76-88
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• 2002

The aim of this study was to describe how the type of appeal and linguistic expression of men's wear advertisement in magazines by analyzing domestic men's and ladies' magazines published from 1990 to 1999. The periodical change in advertisement trend was also discussed. 1. Type of Linguistic expression The type of linguistic expression used in advertisements far men's wear could be classified into the following five categories : emotional expression, sensual expression, egoistic expression, informative expression, and brand name expression. The periodical trend in the use of each type of linguistic expression was as follows: the occupancy rate for the type of emotional expression was roughly 50 percent in the early 90's (1990-1993) and this percentage gradually decreased during the mid 90's (1994-1196) until the late 90's (1997-1990). Despite the decrease in occupancy rate, this type was the most commonly used. While the occupancy rate fur the type of informative expression gradually increased during the decade, occupancy growth fur the type of brand name expression was slight until its rapid expansion in the late 90's. The occupancy rate for the type of egoistic expression steadily increased during the early and mid 90's but decreased to its original percentage in the late 90's. As for the sensual expression, its occupancy was insignificant up to the mid 90's and then rapidly decreased in the late 90's. 2. Type of appeal The type of appeal used in men's wear advertisements could be classified into the four categories, sensitive appeal, sex appeal, image appeal, and quality appeal. The periodical trend in the use of each type of appeal was as follows: sensitive appeal was most commonly used during the decade ; it had an occupancy rate over 50 percent in the early 90's but the rate gradually decreased during the mid and late 90's. Sexual appeal were the least commonly used; though the occupancy rate increased during the early and mid 90's it dropped dramatically in the late 97's. The occupancy rate for image appeal gradually decreased until its growth in the late 90's. The occupancy rate fur quality appeal was insignificant in the early 90's. This percentage rapidly increased in the mid 90's but relapsed in the late 90's.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.859-879
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• 2004

As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.3 s.68
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• pp.394-404
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• 2007

The purpose of the study was to analyze the difference in knitwear purchasing behaviors of female college students in the U.S., Korea, and China. It was developed questionnaire that included knitwear purchasing behavior that is fashion information sources, evaluation criteria of knitwear products, store attributes of knitwear, knitwear buying places, and purchasing experience of foreign-made knitwear. The final sample used in this study consisted of 119 female college students in U.S., 150 female college students in Korea, and 217 female college students in China. Aged from 18 to 33. ANOVA, factor analysis, Duncan's multiple range test, frequency, and percentage as analysis methods were used. The results of the study were as follows. The preference of knitwear among the respondents was shown highly. This result is due to a world-wide trend of casual clothing, and is to prove, that knitwear is that made with flexibility, drape, and stretch, is the item that is able to satisfy consumer's desires. Knitwear preference of knitwear the U.S. respondents was shown highly, and buying intention of them was also high, not only for sweaters and t-shirts but for pants, skirts, jackets, coats, and dresses as well. Knitwear information the U.S. respondents considered important, was not only purchasing experience but also shop display and magazine advertisements. By evaluating criteria of knitwear, the U.S. respondents considered good fit, design, color, and comfort important, and they didn't consider the country of origin important. By store attributes of knitwear, the U.S. respondents specially considered the display, variety, price level, and sale frequency of merchandise. The respondents of China was shown higher than them of Korea in the intention of all items. Knitwear information the China respondents considered important, was not only purchasing experience but also shop advertisements of Newspaper and magazine and fashion articles in Newspaper and magazine. By evaluating criteria of knitwear, the China respondents considered good fit, design, color, and comfort important, and they considered fiber content and the country of origin higher than the respondents of U.S. By Store attributes of knitwear, the China respondents specially considered product knowledge and friendliness of sales personnel, Layaway payment plan, Brand names, New Fashion, and Dressing Facilities higher than the respondents of U.S. or Korea.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.1 s.66
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• pp.37-57
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to analyze the body measurements of boys and girls at puberty and to provide the fundamental data for pubescent apparel manufacturers to produce clothing that reflect their physical characteristics. A total of 549 boys and 529 girls aged between 10 and 14 were measured in the capital area from March 4 to April 3, 2004. Data were collected from 35 anthropometric items and 12 photographic items per a person. SPSS Ver. 12 program was used in data analysis including means, standard deviation, t-test and Duncan test. The main results of this study were as follows. They showed the significant difference of their growth in accordance with the increase of their ages. There were also the difference between boys and girls. As for height and length items, boys showed a slow growth at the age of $10{\sim}11\;and\;12{\sim}13$. Those at the age of $11{\sim}12\;and\;13{\sim}14$ showed rapid growth. That is, an active growth was followed by a slow growth and that phenomenon repeatedly occurred. On the other hand, girls showed remarkable growth at the age $10{\sim}11$ and the growth rate gradually slowed down afterward. Regarding circumference items, boys at the age of $11{\sim}12\;and\;13{\sim}14$ showed remarkable growth. This results showed that boys at the age of $11{\sim}12$ had vertical growth and horizontal growth at the same time and for those at the age of $13{\sim}14$, growth was more conspicuous in horizontal direction. Meanwhile, for girls, the growth rate was high at the age of $11{\sim}12$, somewhat later than the age of the growth of height and length. As for breadth-related items and depth-related items, for both sexes two items grew steadily throughout the ages, breadth-related items showed a higher growth rate than that of depth-related items. This study analyzed the body measurements of pubescent boys and girls and the results showed that, for boys, an active physical growth took place at the age of 13 according to previous studies, but the findings of this study suggested that the phenomenon now occurred at the age of $11{\sim}12$, which proved that physical growth took place earlier than before. Also, an active growth was followed by a slow growth. Girls at puberty showed remarkable growth of height at the age of $10{\sim}11$ that is consistent with previous studies and then showed horizontal growth at the age of around 12, having a voluminous body shape.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.794-808
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• 2014

This research aimed to examine the effect of emotional dissonance and emotional intelligence on the prosocial behavior of fashion salespeople in department stores, and whether emotional intelligence mediates the relationship between emotional dissonance and prosocial behavior. Moreover, we aimed to suggest a method to improve the prosocial behavior of salespeople as a strategy to obtain a continuous competitive advantage in an increasingly competitive fashion distribution environment. This research was conducted through a questionnaire survey, and 345 responses were collected from department store salespeople for the final analysis. First, the analysis results showed that the emotional dissonance of salespeople arose from their dealings with their organization and with customers. Prosocial behavior was deduced to be a factor of the cooperation with coworker and extra-role customer service. The emotional intelligence was deduced to be a factor of the use of emotion, regulation of emotion, self-emotion appraisal, and others'emotion appraisal. Second, with a higher level of emotional dissonance against the organization, there was less cooperation with coworker, while a higher emotional dissonance against customers resulted in increased cooperation with coworker. Third, it appeared that with a higher level of emotional dissonance against the organization, there was a higher utilization of use of emotion, self-emotion appraisal, and others'emotion appraisal of emotional intelligence. Fourth, as the regulation of emotion, self-emotion appraisal, and use of emotion were higher, there was more cooperation with coworker, whereas an increase in the utilization of one's own emotion and emotional control resulted in a higher level of extra-role customer service. Finally, emotional intelligence has a significant mediating effect between emotional dissonance and prosocial behavior. The above results suggest that for department stores to improve the prosocial behavior of their sales staff requires the establishment of a method to enhance the emotional intelligence of the staff. The results also indicate that there is a need for department stores to prepare a systemic tool to enable them to select people with a high degree of emotional intelligence when recruiting salespeople.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.173-187
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the fetishist characteristics and the aesthetic values of glamour style based on the premise that fetishism is the theoretical root of glamour style expressed in fashion throughout history. The following results are from analysing fetishist characteristics of glamour style. First, luxury was analysed from an angle of commodity fetishism. Every culture develops images and stories that portray a world in which its ideals are realized: a paradise, a utopia, a golden age, etc. Consumer goods often serve as 'bridges to these ideals'. People thus can fantasize about owning the perfect life. Crucially, however, they must never get everything they picture. That is why luxuries often take on displaced meaning. Glamour gives the displaced meaning visual form, making it beautiful and real. Second, the attention on the glamour of luxury goods as a bridge to ideals is connected to the glamour icon who is simultaneously a consumer of these luxury goods and a producer of cultural goods. Glamour icons including the courtesan of the late 19th century, the actress of the 1930s' Hollywood golden age and today's celebrities appear to efface the traces of production and create fetishist images in culture. Through this artificial principle, the commodity-cum-glamour icon comes to life as a splendid image of spectacle. Third, masquerade and seduction were analysed from an angle of sexual fetishism. A magnificent image of masquerade as sexual fetishism is often equated with femininity, especially in Hollywood movies, because the artificial seduction of the feminine -namely glamour- can be effected by the absence or silence of being. That is to say, the aesthetic revelation of femininity coincides with the fleshing out of artificial signs. Masquerade and the seduction of the feminine are connected with glamour's artificial sensuality from this point. Fourth, since 1980's when homosexuality as sexual deviation resurfaced as a hot topic, sexual ambiguity and bisexual image have gained attention as perverse sexuality. Next came queer theory, which reduced gender itself to a matter of surface rather than depth. According to queer theory, gender itself can be revealed as a kind of drag act. Drag's imitative performance may reveal that womanliness is just about 'dragging up'. Queerness as a decadent play makes a connection with the wicked origins of glamour. From these characteristics, four aesthetic values were deduced: ostentatious luxury and mysterious idolatry by commodity fetishism, artificial sensuality and playful queerness by sexual fetishism.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.81-96
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• 2006

This study aimed to investigate the sociocultural phenomena which affected to clothing change in 1650-1900 and to examine the features of men's necktie in the western art. For this study, information about historic neckwear is obtained from the visual evidence of painted or engraved portraits, contemporary written sources. The covered area of this study was Europe mainly England and France. For this process, research steps were as follows : 1. Investigating the sociocultural phenomena which affect to clothing change through 1650-1900 and analysis of men's clothing and appearance. 2. Finding the changing characteristics of neckties including it's different types, shapes, knots, colors and materials and analyzing similarities and differences of neckties by the times. 3. Examining necktie as one of important and representative icons of male gender identity. The results of the study was as follows: 1. In 1660-1900, men's fashion was simplified in color and detail due to the influence of practical Puritanism and matured civil culture. And British men's fashion spreaded throughout whole European countries and get popularity. 2. In 1650-1720, there were band, cravat and steinkirk. And expecially cravatier, a expert custodian of cravats, was appeared in that period. In 1720-1800, there were stock, solitaire and cravat. In 1800-1850, neckwear were popularized and got various sizes and types up to shape and size of chemise collars. Black stock, scarf cravat and shawl cravat were popular and terms of 'necktie' were used for an certain neckcloth shape. And abundant literature for necktie were published thanks to the development of printing technology in that period. In 1851-1900, the leady-made neckties were spreaded and there were changes in shape, length, knot of necktie up to V-zone formed with shirt's collars and vest types. Neckwear was gradually evolving through four distinct styles, bow tie, scarf or neckerchief, Ascot and four-in-hand. 3. After the mid-l7th Century, as civil culture matured and splendid and extravagant colorful men's wear disappeared, British men's fashion spreaded throughout whole European countries and got popularity. The necktie become an essential ornamental accessory of men's fashion and one of important and representative icons of male gender identity.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.97-118
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• 1999

Ever since China adopted a free market economy, it has been basking in unprecedented economic growth. It has now emerged as one of the most promising markets in the world for the near future. The purpose of this study was to investigate of Chinese and Korea college female students's cognitive body type and to suggest basic informations for high quality clothing merchandising for china export. The subjects in this study were 430 college female students, aged from 18 to 24 living in Beijing(215) and Seoul(215). The survey were taken from June to July, 1999. SAS(Statistical Analysis System) is used for frequency, percentage, average, standard deviation, χ²-test. The results of this study are as follows. The 90% of Chinese collge female students has under 4000 yuan for monthly income, and they consume less than 1000 yuan for clothing purchasing for one year. About 42% chinese students are interested in controlling of physical body shape. The Korean college female students has from 1,000,000 won to 10,000,000 won for monthly income, and the 84% of them consume less than 1,000,000 for clothing purchasing for one year. It represents of economical difference between China and Korea. Examination on the Korean and Chinese self-perception on obesity of the body as a whole showed that both groups perceived themselves as normal or slightly overweight. More Korean respondents regarded their weight as normal than the Chinese did. The Chinese female college students perceived themselves rather overweight, and held a lower satisfaction level about their physical construction. While the Korean female college students showed low satisfaction level about specific bodily parts, they held a normal level of satisfaction about their physical construction as a whole. It is noteworthy that more Chinese respondents generally held lower satisfaction impressions about their physical construction than their Korean counterparts. It is needed to different merchandising project for export clothing in China.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.33-45
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• 1999

Examine the dress which the Emperor actually wore in Gun-ryung 42nd year of Ching dynasty, comparison of 《Cheong-hoi-jeon-do》 with the Emperors year-round dress in Gun-ryung the 41st year was made and summarize the result as follows. It was used almost similar to the code of 《Cheong-hoi-jeon-do》. Though the materials and colors were more diverse than those of the previous year, it seems that actual use of material was plain under the influence of mourning. All the materials for summer hat were rattans. And velvet was the material for the patrol hat, but actually used before they change to summer material after fur use was over according to the season, which can be said as more reasonable use than the code. Materials of coat were more diverse than the precious year and also they put on ko-hemp cloth which was not found in the previous year. This can be understood that they expressed their guilt-consciousness to the dead as dress material by wearing ko-hemp cloth during the summer after periiod of mourning was over. And they put on the ko-hemp, the Emperors ordinary dress, much longer time than the previous year and this seems to be coherent to the meaning of wearing ko-hemp cloth. They followed the Emperor\`s Jo-bok1 one for the Kae-bok which were not systematized and Jae-dae used Jo-dae2 as the Emperor\`s Jae-bok in 42nd year. This was the same as the Jae-bok code of the previous year. Jo-ju did not follow the code of 《Cheong-hoi-jeon-do》, but made a wide variety. For the belt, the same as 41st year, it marked the gem decoration style on the Jae-bok belt as a square type and mourning dress by using the round type. The Emperors dress in 41nd year showed one side of the patrol clothes by the patrol of San-dong. On the contrary, it was also the chance to see one side of funeral garments in 42nd year. In Gun-ryung 42nd year, the Emperor put on the funeral garments for hundred days. Accordingly even in parts, we can see that the Emperor wore two kinds of dress for hundred days, that is, color dress and white dress and white dress. While on duty, in other words, everyday dress was only blue color and also the same color for the belt and shoes. But didn\`t put on Jo-ju. When they were in mourning, they wore white dress and belt as a funeral garments, which were called Hyo-bok, Hyo-bok.