• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.21 no.2
• /
• pp.94-111
• /
• 1995

In this study, the relationship between partition coefficients(Kw) of oils and antimicrobial effects Ivas investigated. The antimicrobial activity of paraben has been known to be controlled by the concentration of the paraben in the aqueous phase. The concentration of paraben in the aqueous phase was measured by the UV/VIS spectrophotometer at the wavelength of 256nm. It was found that the hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils had the lowest Kw value(<1.0) among the tested oils. Also, the emulsions which were made of oils having low Kw values had a good antimicrobial effects. Thus, the cosmetic safety against microorganisms could be improved by using the oils which have low Kw values.

• Toxicological Research
• /
• v.31 no.2
• /
• pp.105-136
• /
• 2015

Polyethylene glycols (PEGs) are products of condensed ethylene oxide and water that can have various derivatives and functions. Since many PEG types are hydrophilic, they are favorably used as penetration enhancers, especially in topical dermatological preparations. PEGs, together with their typically nonionic derivatives, are broadly utilized in cosmetic products as surfactants, emulsifiers, cleansing agents, humectants, and skin conditioners. The compounds studied in this review include PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, and PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil. Overall, much of the data available in this review are on PEGylated oils (PEG-40 and PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oils), which were recommended as safe for use in cosmetics up to 100% concentration. Currently, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate and PEGylated oils are considered safe for cosmetic use according to the results of relevant studies. Additionally, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer should be further studied to ensure its safety as a cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.23 no.3
• /
• pp.108-114
• /
• 1997

The skin permeation study has two meanings in cosmetics. One is how to promote the skin permeation of active meterials for improving their bioavailabilities and the other is how to decrease it of irritants for reducing their skin side effects. In this study, we selected methyl paraben, one of the preservatives, as a model irritant and tried to reduce the skin irritation by the decrease of skin permeation. Furthermore, the relationship between skin permeation and skin primary irritation was discussed. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz type diffusion cells and the excised skin of female hairless mouse from 8 weeks old were used. The donor compartment was charged with oil only or O/W emulsion containing 0.3% MP. We selected 19 oils, including esters, triglycerides, plant oils, hydrocarbons, and alchols, which are broadly used in cosmetics. We evaluated with female guinea pig. The skin permeahility of MP from the oils showed following order: ester oils > triglycerides > plant oils > hydrocarbons > alcohols. We considered that this result was based on the different effect of each oil on the barrier function of stratum corneum. In O/W emulsion containing each oil, the skin permeability of MP decreased as the oil/water partition coefficient of MP increased. The skin primary irritation increased as the skin permeability of MP increased. In conclusion, we suggest that the skin irritation could be reduced by the decrease of skin permeability of MP, which may be obtained by the good selection of oils in cosmetic preparations.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
• /
• v.18 no.1
• /
• pp.74-79
• /
• 2008

The aim of this study was to analyze the chemical composition of 14 kinds of citrus oils and to test their biological activities. Citrus essential oils were obtained by steam distillation from immature fruits collected from Jeju Island and were analyzed using gas chromatograph (GC)-flame ionization detectors (FID) and GC-MS. Limonene (55.4% to 91.7%), myrcene (2.1% to 32.1%), ${\alpha}$-pinene (0.6% to 1.6%) and linalool (0.4% to 6.9%) were the major components in most citrus species. To evaluate in vitro antibacterial activity, all essential oils were tested against Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis. Nine out of fourteen citrus oils exhibited antibacterial activity against P. acnes, but not against S. epidermidis. The effects of the citrus oils on DPPH radical scavenging, superoxide radical anion scavenging, nitric oxide radical, and cytotoxicity were also assessed. Three essential citrus oils, Joadeung, Dongjunggyul, and Bujiwha, exhibited potent inhibitory effects on nitric oxide production. Two essential oils, Dongjunggyul and Joadeung, showed potent free radical scavenging activities in the DPPH assay. For future applications in cosmetic products, we also performed MTT assays in a human dermal fibroblast cell line. The majority of the essential oils showed no cytotoxicity. The results indicate that citrus essential oils can be useful natural agents for cosmetic application.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
• /
• v.13 no.4
• /
• pp.369-375
• /
• 2015

In this study, the formation potential and the stability of nano-emulsions were evaluated according to the structure of various cosmetic oils in Tween 80/Span 80 system using PIC method at 80 oC LP 70, Isopar H and Pripure 3759 of hydrocarbons were both form a stable nano-emulsion, particle size distribution of about 40 nm. A linear structure of silicone oil formed an unstable emulsion, but cyclic or short chain oil formed was a stable nano-emulsion. In ester oils, the particle size of emulsions increases with increasing molecular weight of oils and a stable nano-emulsion could not be obtained in the molecular weight of about 450. The particle size of the nano-emulsion against required HLB value for calculating in consideration of the lipophilic and hydrophilic oil was smaller in the HLB of 8-10.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.17 no.5
• /
• pp.1027-1035
• /
• 2008

Essentail oils and carrier oils are generally used for Aromatherapy. Therefore the toxicity, possibilities of irritations and sensitive reactions and injury of essential oils must be considered for clients and therapists. So that, in this studies a toxicity of jojoba and 4 species essential oils (fennel, mandarine, tea tree and cedarwood) were investigated by the measurement of MTT-assay and sirius red staining. Liver, kidney and brain tell were chosen for the cell viability assay and observation of morphological change. In the result, no cytotoxicity was observed on live., kidney and brain cell at concentration of 0.01 $\mu\el/m\el$ jojoba oil. And lysis and nucleus breaking were not observed at same concentration of jojoba oil on live., kidney and brain cell. fennel oil was showed 50% of cell viability and inhibited cell growth on liver, kidney and brain cell at relatively high concentration compared with the other oils. 50% of liver, kidney and brain cell viability and delayed cell growth of tea tree and mandarine oil were revealed at lower concentration than fennel oil. In cedarwood oil, 50% of liver cell viability at concentration of 0.00067 $\mu\el/m\el$ was showed, but cell viability and cell growth of kidney and beam cell were effected at the lowest concentration compared with other oils. So that, jojoba oil as using of carrier oil may be not harmful. And 3 essential oils from the fennel, tea tree and mamdarine may have very low toxicity, but cedarwood may be used carefully for inhalation. And over dosage of concentrated cedarwood oil should be not directly touched and exposured, and absolute essential oils must be diluted with carrier oils for topical and systematic massage.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
• /
• 2003.09a
• /
• pp.258-267
• /
• 2003

Recently inside nano liposome particles or nano-emulsions which contain tough-melting physiology activity materials or the coefficient of low organism utilization promote the coefficient of organism utilization, so this part has been studied a lot because they can absorb selectly cosmetics, specially physiology activity materials, into the skin. Also, in particle size, cells interstitial lipid interval are 30~50nm, so nano-emulsions that the size is similar to 30~50 nm are made to study for absorbing quickly into the skin. And transparent skin which contains oils in common skin lotion dosage form has become the center of public interest. The used nano-emulsions in this study were unsaturated lecithin/co-surfactant! ethanol/ oil / water. And polysorbate 20/ polysorbate 80/ Dicetyl phosphate/hydrogenated .caster oil/ isoceteth-20/SLS were used in co-surfactant. The used oils were cyclomethicone and caprylic/capric triglyceride. The manufacturing process was that microfluidizer was fixed in 1000bar and transit times were changed from 1 to 10 times. From transparency and particle size, the transparency sequence was SLS> polysorbate 20= polysorbate 80> isoceteth-20> dicetyl phosphate >hydrogenated caster oil and the particle size was small. Specially cyclomethicone nano-emulsions, when we made unsaturated lecithin /SLS /ethanol/water/cyclomethicone, cyclomethicone 5％ was good for transparency. And 20％ of this was used for making transparent skin toner in common skin dosage form.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.28 no.1
• /
• pp.166-185
• /
• 2002

Aroma oils extracted from the natural material have antibacterial, antivirus, antiinflammatory, and preservative effect. The preserve efficacy testing between aroma oils and parabens as an artificial preservative had been performed and then it had been suggested that aroma oil was possibile to apply to the cosmetics. Aroma oils were pine, rosemary, lemon and eucalyptus, and parabens were methylparaben, blitylparaben. Antiseptic concentrations of aroma oils and parabens having 0.0, 0.1, 0.2, 0.4, 0.8, 1.0wt% were tested respectively. Escherichia coil(ATCC No.8739), Pseudomonas aeruginosa(ATCC No. 9027) which are gram-negative and Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC No. 6538), Bacillus subtilis(ATCC No. 6633) which are gram-positive were used as the test organisms. Disk paper and broth dilution methods were used as the methods of preservative efficacy testing. The antibacterial activity of aroma oils and parabens for gram-positive were better than that for gram-negative. For the antibacterial activity aroma oils were better than parabens. Among the aroma oils, rosemary and pine having superior antibacterial activity were selected and blended to illuminate if there is any synergy, There was synergical effect and optimum ratio of aroma blend is 3 : 1(rosemary pine) in this study.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.32 no.2 s.57
• /
• pp.99-103
• /
• 2006

Natural essential oils showed anti-microbial activity on relatively broad spectrum of bacterial and fungal species. These materials had much more intensive anti-microbial activities than synthetic preservatives on C. albicans, A niger, and P. acnes, especially. In the experimental group, anti-microbial activity was order of tea tree oil (from Melaleuca alternifolia) > methylparaben > phytoncide (from Chamaecyparis obtusa). Also, natural essential oils had anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory effects. These results suggest that natural essential oils can be useful as good cosmetic ingredients such as natural preservatives and anti-oxidants.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.31 no.4 s.54
• /
• pp.337-342
• /
• 2005

The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of different skin care ingredient concentrations on the effect of polyols and oils on the human skin moisturization and skin surface roughness. Polyols and oils were essential ingredients to make a skin care formulation. But these were still not understood how much concentration(s) were tested on human skin in the aspect of efficacy and sensory. We studied to examine various concentrations of ingredient by cosmetic companies using noninvasive methods. Polyols were composed of glycerol and butylene glycol (BG) as 1:1 ratio, and oils were hydrogenated polydecene, cetyl ethylhexanoate and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate (PTO(R), Stearinerie Dubois Fils Co., France) as 1:1:1 ratio. All compounds were tested $0{\sim}27%dml$ Polyols and $0{\sim}35%dml$ oils in O/W emulsions. We investigated the effect of water contents and the effect of stratum corneum roughness in forearm skin after application of compounds. Water contents of the skin measured by skin capacitance and skin surface roughness measured visual scoring of skin surface biopsy through the scanning electron microscopy. Water contents of the skin were highly related to amount of polyols (to 20%) and oils (to 12%). Correlation coefficients were 0.971 and 0.985 respectively (p<0.01), 2 h after application. Skin surface roughness was positively correlated with polyol contents in concentration dependent manner, and depend on oils up to 6%. The ratio of coefficient was 2.5 to 1 (polyol to oils) by regression analysis. Further studies will be conducted with other ingredients such as surfactants, lipids and aqueous materials, and with ether methods for noninvasive measurement.