Reduction of Skin Irritation by the Control of Skin Permeation of Methyl Paraben

The skin permeation study has two meanings in cosmetics. One is how to promote the skin permeation of active meterials for improving their bioavailabilities and the other is how to decrease it of irritants for reducing their skin side effects. In this study, we selected methyl paraben, one of the preservatives, as a model irritant and tried to reduce the skin irritation by the decrease of skin permeation. Furthermore, the relationship between skin permeation and skin primary irritation was discussed. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz type diffusion cells and the excised skin of female hairless mouse from 8 weeks old were used. The donor compartment was charged with oil only or O/W emulsion containing 0.3% MP. We selected 19 oils, including esters, triglycerides, plant oils, hydrocarbons, and alchols, which are broadly used in cosmetics. We evaluated with female guinea pig. The skin permeahility of MP from the oils showed following order: ester oils > triglycerides > plant oils > hydrocarbons > alcohols. We considered that this result was based on the different effect of each oil on the barrier function of stratum corneum. In O/W emulsion containing each oil, the skin permeability of MP decreased as the oil/water partition coefficient of MP increased. The skin primary irritation increased as the skin permeability of MP increased. In conclusion, we suggest that the skin irritation could be reduced by the decrease of skin permeability of MP, which may be obtained by the good selection of oils in cosmetic preparations.