• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.1243-1249
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• 2018

Ceramides are commonly studied and developed in the cosmetics industry as ingredients that help a moisturized skin and strengthen a skin barrier. In this study, we determined how much great effects the moisturing cream containing a ceramide, obtained from evening primrose oil instead of using a common synthetic ceramide, made on the changes in moisturizing and transdermal water loss of skin. The result showed that the cream with a ceramide showed much better results than the cream without a ceramide at the skin moisture resistance and transdermal water loss of skin.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.112-115
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• 2010

In this study, the antibacterial activity and the moisturizing effect of cream contaning Persicaria hydropiper L. extract were investigated by clinical trial. MIC values of ethyl acetate fraction from Persicaria hydropiper on P.acnes, S.aureus, P.ovale were 0.13~0.25%. The results showed that the antibacterial activity of the ethyl acetate fraction was higher than or equal to the methyl paraben and quercetin. The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of Persicaria hydropiper L. extracts was formulated for skin hydration effect. Also, the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and the water contents in skin were measured. The cream containing Persicaria hydropiper L. extract was applied to the right lower arm. After 180 min, TEWL of parts was decreased as $6.5\;g/m^2h$ (experimental cream) and $7.5\;g/m^2h$ (placebo cream) respectively. And the water contents in skin were increased by 2~4% than the placebo cream. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Persicaria hydropiper L. can function as high potential as bactericide against the skin pathogenic bacteria and the increase of skin hydration of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.

• The Korea Journal of Herbology
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.47-53
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• 2006

Objectives : This study was conducted to determine if Scutellaria baicalensis can be used in cosmetic emulsion cream for patients with atopic dermatitis. Methods : Scutellaria baicalensis extract was obtained with the use of butylene glycol through the pressurized solvent extraction(PSE). The antioxidative activity was assessed through SOD-like activity measurement and skin irritating potential was tested using human patch test. Antimicrobial activity was measured by the clear zone formed against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli and the rheological effects on the emulsion creams were examined using oscillation test. Results : The SOD-like activity increased dose-dependently and was about 90% at 1,000ppm of Scutellaria baicalesis extract. And Scutellaria baicalensis extract did not show any potential to be irritating to the human skin, but it could not be used as an antimicrobial agent for its poor antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus. The complex modulus decreased by 1,000 pascals and the loss angle also decreased by 20% with the addition of Scutellaria baicalensis extract into the cosmetic emulsion creams, that is, the extract can confer more elastic property on the vehicle. Conclusion : From those results, Scutellaria baicalensis extract can be effectively used as an antioxidant and reinforces the elastic skincare film formed by the application of cream for patients with atopic dermatitis.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.303-306
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• 2003

Indonesia is a tropical country having a temperature range of 25-35$^{\circ}C$ which can affect the skin and causes damages like aging. This aging process is due, at least, to free radical reactions. For this reason, many attempts had been done to find out creams containing natural antioxidant compound which have a potential of free radical scavenger. Kluwek, a fermented form of foot ball fruit or picung (Pangium edule.Reinw), had been proved to contain antioxidant compound in its methanol fraction oil to which antiaging cream was formulated. Stability evaluation was conducted for cream with Kluwek oil compared to base cream, including organoleptic (colour and odour), pH, viscosity, particle size, centrifugation test and flow characteristics either in room temperature (27$^{\circ}C$) or stress condition (4$^{\circ}C$ and 5$0^{\circ}C$) for 8 weeks continuously, and six times cycling test at 4$^{\circ}C$ and 5$0^{\circ}C$ every 24 hours. The results showed that cream with Kluwek oil and base cream were stable at temperature 27 and 4$^{\circ}C$, cycling test and centrifugation test, but not stable at 5$0^{\circ}C$. Free radical evaluation was done by Electron Spin Resonance and the result showed that cream with Kluwek oil had less free radicals compared to base cream.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.237-242
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• 2012

In this study, the skin moisturing effect and stability of cream containing L. cuneata G. Don extract (ethyl acetate fraction) were evaluated. The skin hydrating effect of the cream containing extract was 1020% higher than the placebo cream, and the TWEL of the cream containing extracts was decreased to $7.7g/m^2h$ compared to the control ($10.2g/m^2$) and placebo cream ($8.9g/m^2$). The pH, viscosity, and absorbance were measured under the 4, 25, 37, $45^{\circ}C$ and the sun light during the 12 weeks. The pH change between cream containing extract and placebo cream did not show the significant difference under the 4, 25, 37, $45^{\circ}C$ except for the sun light. Both creams showed high decrease (about 59%) of viscosity at $45^{\circ}C$. However, there was no significant change under other conditions. The absorbance of the cream containing the extract and the placebo cream was decreased similarly at all conditions. This decrease in absorbance was relatively small compared to the decrease of absorbance of the extract in ethanol solution under the sun light (Fig. 7). In addition, any change in color or smell of the cream was not observed during the 12 weeks. Also physical changes as creaming and cohesion were not shown. These results indicate that the cream containing L. cuneata extract has the skin moisturizing effect and is relatively stable. Therefore, it is suggested that the ethyl acetate fraction of L. cuneata extract could be applicable to cosmetics as a new cosmetic material with its antioxidative and antibacterial activities reported previously.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.442-446
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• 2019

We recently reported the characteristics of Chrysanthemum boreale MAKINO essential oil (CBMEO) at different harvesting stages and its in vitro antioxidant, whitening, skin regeneration, and antiwrinkle properties. In the present study, we investigated the effectiveness of cosmetic creams containing 0.1% of CBMEO in terms of wrinkle reduction and safety. The participants were 22 women aged 42 to 60 y with natural wrinkles. All the participants applied the CBMEO-containing cream to the eye area for 8 weeks. Visual observations of the skin by a dermatologist were used to assess the safety of the product, and improvements in skin wrinkles (roughness) were analyzed using a skin visiometer. Neither the CBMEO-containing cream nor the placebo caused abnormal reactions, such as erythema or allergies, during the test period. The CBMEO-containing cream-exposed test regions showed a greater reduction in the roughness index as compared with those of the placebo-exposed control regions. The R1, R2, and R3 indices showed a statistically significant decrease in the test regions as compared with the placebo control regions after using the cream for 2 weeks (p<0.05). Therefore, this study demonstrated that CBMEO-containing cosmetics are safe for human use and that they have skin wrinkle improvement properties. In the future, CBMEO may be a promising product for use in the development of functional anti-wrinkle cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.231-238
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• 2007

In the previous study, the anti-oxidant activity of extract/fraction of Sueada asparagoides (SA) was investigated and the results showed that the ethylacetate (EtOAc) fraction and its aglycone fraction had the best performance on the free radical scavenging activity, reactive oxygen species scavenging (ROS) activity and cell protective activity (J. Soc. Cosme. Scientists Korea, 33(3), 145 (2007)). In this study, the stability of cream containing 0.3% SA EtOAc extract (called extract below) was evaluated. pH, viscosity and absorbance (363 nm) were measured under the 4 different temperatures ($0^{\circ}C,\;25{\circ}C,\;37{\circ}C\;and\;45{\circ}C$) and under the sun light at the 4 week intervals during the 12 weeks in total. The control cream without containing the extract did not show pH change under the different temperatures mentioned above. However, the pH of the cream the extract was decreased 0.08 at the temperature ranges of $0^{\circ}C\;to\;37^{\circ}C$. Under the $45^{\circ}C$ and sun light condition, the pH was decreased 0.51 and 0.66, respectively. The cream containing the extract did not show absorbance change at the temperature ranges of 0 to $37^{\circ}C$ for 12 weeks. Instead, the absorbance of the cream treated under $45^{\circ}C$ and sun light condition was decreased 7.6 % and 7.4 %, respectively. This decrease in absorbance is relatively small compared to the 48.3 % decrease of the extract sampled from the cream using ethanol solution. This indicates that the extract is stabilized in the cream. After treating the cream for 12 weeks under the different temperatures, the viscosity was measured for the cream containing the extract and control cream. The values were increased by 1,748 cPs in average compared to the initial value for the former and by 951 cPs in average for the latter. On the other hand, the viscosity of control cream treated under the sun light for 12 weeks was significantly decreased (4,022 cPs) relative to the cream containing the extract, which showed 2,484 cPs increase in viscosity. This indicates that the SA extract contributes to the stability of the emulsion product by protective effect to maintain the viscosity of the cream against sun light. In addition, any change in color or smell was not observed through 12 weeks of the experimental time period. Thus, it is concluded that it is still not clear in the stability of the cream containing the extract when it is stored for the long time. Accordingly, it is suggested that further study is needed to provide more information to the manufactures, who are seeking for the application of the extract to improve the anti-oxidant activity and stability of cosmetic products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.116-122
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• 1998

It is well known that all-trans-retinol is not only very unstable in heat, light, air, and water, but also skin-irritant despite a good anti-wrinkle effect. Therefore, it is very difficult to stabilize retinol and make the safe retinol containing cosmetics by using a certain concentration of retinol with real effect. In order to dissolve these problems and apply retinol for skin care cream, firstly retinol is to be encapsulated in the vesicle called Liposphere (pseudo-liposome) which is made by homogenizing under high pressure the mixtures of lecithin, retinol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and hydroalcoholic solution ; and then this retinol containing Liposphere is to be intercalated in lamellar liquid crystal layer which is prepared by emulsifying in an optimal ratio the mixtures composed of non-ionic emulsifier (cetearyl glucoside, sorbitan stearate & sucrose cocoate etc), cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, cholesterol, and ceramide. In addition, the stability of the retinol containing oil in water cream by adding the polymeric emulsifier such as acrylate /C10-30 alkyl alkylate crosspolymer is to be ensured even at 55 C. Retinol containing oil in water cream prepared through above procedure could be very stable at 45 C for at least 50 days. The structure identification of lamellar liquid crystal was determined using polarized light microscope and electron microscope Conclusively, we could make the very stable retinol containing oil in water cream by triple procedure, that is, encapsulation of retinol in Liposphere, intercalation of retinol in lamellar liquid crystal layer, and assurance of the high temperature stability of cream even at 55 C.

• The Journal of Korean Medicine Ophthalmology and Otolaryngology and Dermatology
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.124-131
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• 2008

Objectives : The aim of this study was conducted to test dry infant skin by external application with herbs in cosmetics. Methods : A total of 25 infants who visited Daegu Hanny Oriental Medical Center from March 5th, 2008 to May 18th, 2008 were included in this study. In this study, they were treated with the cosmetic products(body wash, rotion, cream) containing herbs. For 4 weaks skin moisture content was measured by corneometer ClVI825. And satisfaction after using body wash, rotion, cream was checked. Results : There were no significant differences on sex and age. Change of skin moisture content between before treatment and after treatment (2, 4 weeks) showed significant changes(p<0.05). Satisfaction after using body wash, rotion, cream was near good. Conclusions : Considering the above results, we have concluded that cosmetics containing herbs have the remarkable effect on infant skin mosturizing.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.48-74
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• 1997

Retinlyl Palmitate, the skin normalizerm is useful to promote greater skin elasticity, to diminish lipid peroxidation and skin roughness following UV exposure, and promote a youthfulgeneral skin appearance. In manufacturing creams, Retinyl Palmitate, which is a derivative of retinol, is used since reionol is easily oxidized by heat and light. However, only a small mount of retinol, is used since using a large amount of it may be harmful to its stability. In this study, thermal stability and UV stability of W/O-, W/S-, O/W-, and MLV-type creams containing 5% of retinyl palmitate and 10% of tocopheryl acetate are measured by Chroma Meters, and the content of RP is quantitatively analyzed by HPLC at 25 $^{\circ}C$ and 45 $^{\circ}C$. Also, how RP has been changed by heat, light, etc. is measured by HPLC, and toxicity of the changed substance is studied. Particle size of each type of the cream if measured, cellular renewal is measured by using DHP and Chroma Meters in order to study their efficacy and effect, moisture content is measured by using Corneometer and Tewameter, and how much wrinkles are improved is studied by using Image Analyzer. Development of MLV-type cream containing 5% of RP and 10% of TA, and satisfying conditions for better creams has been successful.