• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.117-129
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• 2019

In this study Anti-inflammatory activity was investigated for the extract of Prunus pendula for. ascendens (Makino) Ohwi by monitoring nitric oxide (NO) production in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 murine macrophage cells. The P. pendula ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fraction showed to decrease the NO synthesis by 76.3% at $100{\mu}g/mL$ concentration. The inhibition occurred in a dose-dependent manner without causing cell toxicity. The EtOAc fraction also inhibited the production of $PGE_2$, $IL-1{\beta}$, IL-6 and expression of iNOS, COX-2 protein in dose-dependent manner. From the phytochemical study to isolate the active constituents, five known compounds were identified, which are ursolic acid (1), prunasin (2), methyl p-coumarate (3), kaempferol (4), astragalin (5). All of the compounds 1 - 5 were isolated for the first time from the P. pendula. Among the isolates, the flavonoids 4 and 5 were verified to inhibit NO production with high efficiency. These results suggested that extract of P. pendula leaves could be useful as anti-inflammatory agents in pharmaceutical or cosmetic applications.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.326-329
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• 2015

This study is to develop the double capsulation technology in order to increase the conservativeness and stability of unstable materials such as vitamins, polyphenols, natural active ingredients. And also, best way of triple matrix capsulation using natural polymers were detail described. As the first capsulation with w/o/w (water-in-oil-in-water) emulsifying system, our study group was especially made to soft and moisture cream using 5wt% of sucrose ester emulsifier as first capsulation. Nutrient agents are squalane, camellia oil. Triple matrix capsulation was formed with the best stabilized bead type capsules when it blended of chitosan, algin, sodium-potassium alginate. The bead diameter size was about 2.0~4.5mm (mean diameter: 3.2mm). Activity of lactobacillus containing cream for depending on various pH variations showed that alkalinity ($pH=10.8{\pm}0.5$) condition was higher than acidity ($pH=4.2{\pm}0.2$) and neutrality ($pH=7.1{\pm}0.3$) conditions. After a month, it also was certified to the activity of lactobacillus in incubated at $37{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ in culture medium. As application of food industry, we developed the containing lactobacillus capsule and 7 colored kinds of double and triple matrix capsulation in yogurt cream and active ingredients. As for above mentioned those results, one of tool to stabilize the living lactobacillus, doubled matrix capsulation greatly be expected to contribute to food industry. Furthermore, it can be expected to apply the drug delivery system (DDS) to active ingredients of stabilizing technologies at drug, pharmaceutical division and cosmetic industry, etc.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.317-323
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• 2008

Some surfactants known as biosurfactants, are produced biologically by yeast and bacteria from various substances. They are more effective and environmentally friendly than many other synthetic surfactants. Antimicrobial activities of sophorolipids produced by Candida bombiocola were investigated against various microorganisms. Minimal Inhibitory concentration (MIC) of sophorolipid against S. mutans, C. xerosis, and P. acnes were 0.005, 0.05, and 0.005%, respectively. The antimicrobiological activities were more effective than those of SLS and APG. Skin exfoliating and moisturizing effects of vehicles with the sophorolipids were tested. The skin turnover time of aqueous solution with 0.25% sophorolipids was similar to that of aqueous solution with 5.0% lactic acid. Higher moisturizing effects on skin showed as the concentration of sophorolipids increased. We suggest that the sophorolipids can be used for cosmetics as an antimicrobiological agent and an active materials of skin moisturizing and exfoliating.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.327-334
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• 2018

Studies on seaweed-based materials have been progressing steadily day by day. In this experiment, we checked the anti-oxidant, whitening, and moisturizing activities of fermented extract from a mixture of Undariapinnatifida, Saccharina japonica, and Gloiopeltis furcate. Also, Lactobacillus sakei strains of kimchi were used as the lactic acid bacteria. The physiological status of the combined seaweed extracts was also investigated. The 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2'-azino-bis-3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid (ABTS) radical scavenging results showed that the inhibitory effects of the combined seaweed extracts were higher than the positive control. Furthermore, 3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-DOPA) and Mushroom tyrosinase tests were conducted during the whitening efficacy experiment. Hence, it was confirmed that the whitening activity of fermented extracts was greater than the extracts without fermentation. HPLC analysis of fucose (an active ingredient of seaweed) was also performed and a standard method for solvent conditions was newly established. This study suggests that the composite of algae extract has potentials to be used as anti-oxidant and whitening agents in cosmetics.

• Toxicological Research
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.191-203
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• 2011

There has been growing concern about the toxicity of phthalate esters. Phthalate esters are being used widely for the production of perfume, nail varnish, hairsprays and other personal/cosmetic uses. Recently, exposure to phthalates has been assessed by analyzing urine for their metabolites. The parent phthalate is rapidly metabolized to its monoester (the active metabolite) and also glucuronidated, then excreted. The objective of this study is to evaluate the toxicity of phthalic acid (PA), which is the final common metabolic form of phthalic acid esters (PAEs). The individual PA isomers are extensively employed in the synthesis of synthetic agents, for example isophthalic acid (IPA), and terephthalic acid (TPA), which have very broad applications in the preparation of phthalate ester plasticizers and components of polyester fiber, film and fabricated items. There is a broad potential for exposure by industrial workers during the manufacturing process and by the general public (via vehicle exhausts, consumer products, etc). This review suggests that PA shows in vitro and in vivo toxicity (mutagenicity, developmental toxicity, reproductive toxicity, etc.). In addition, PA seems to be a useful biomarker for multiple exposure to PAEs in humans.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.3 s.58
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• pp.193-200
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• 2006

We investigated the effect of moisturizing and anti-oxidation of Astragalus membranaceus (Astragali Radix) root extract with respective to growing districts and extract methods for the purpose of development of cosmetic ingredients. Astragalii Radix was collected in Jecheon, Jeongseon, Taebaek, and Yeongju in Korea and China as growing districts. Formononetin was determinated by HPLC method as one of the various active agents in Astragalus membranaceus root extract. The 75% ethanol extract demonstrated to be more effective than $H_2O$-extracted one for a scavenging activities to DPPH radicals and reactive oxygens. The 75% ethanol extract showed $IC_{50}$ (50% scavenging concentration) of 2.162 mg/mL and 2.981 mg/mL in case of free radical scavenging activity test and reactive oxygen scavenging activity test, respectively Especially, free radical scavenging activity of isoflavonoids isolated from ethylacetate fraction was similar to scavenging activity of genistein. Astragalus membranaceus root extract of Jecheon district by sonicating extraction method was more effective in skin hydration compared with others.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.269-273
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• 2007

We studied anti-microbial and anti-oxidant activities of bio-active components in stem of Juniperus chinensis L. and leaf of Abies koreana Wilson. Those plants of needle leaf tree family were reported to contain anti-cancer compounds. The anti-bacterial activity was tested by Broth dilution method against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus. As results, Juniperus chinensis L. and Abies koreana Wilson extracts showed 17.0% and 8.5% higher anti-bacterial activity than methyl paraben, respectively. The free radical scavenging activity of Juniperus chinensis L. and Abies koreana Wilson extracts showed 45 % and 44 % at 5,000 ppm. We measured polyphenol (catechin equivalent) and flavonoids quantity. The Juniperus chinensis L. extract contained 312 mg/g of polyphenol and 105 mg/g of flavonoids. The Abies koreana Wilson extract contained 280 mg/g of polyphenol and 103.8 mg/g of flavonoids. The cytotoxicity of extracts was measured by neutral red assay. Extracts did not affect the viability of CCK-986sk cells up to a concentration of 1,250 ppm. In conclusion, these data suggest that extracts of needle leaf trees would be usefull as antiseptic agents and anti-oxidants for cosmetic products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.9-20
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• 2015

Ultraviolet radiation (UV) is a major cause of skin photoaging, and effective UV protecting agents are needed for the skin health and beauty. This study was undertaken to examine the effects of Bambusae caulis in Taeniam extract (BCTE) on UVB-induced cell death, oxidative stress and matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP1) expression in cell-based assays. HaCaT human keratinocytes were exposed to UVB in the presence of BCTE at different concentrations and resulting changes in cell viability and biochemical events were determined. The results showed that BCTE enhanced the viabilities of UVB-exposed cells, and attenuated apoptotic events such as cleavage of procaspase 3 to its active form, and the increase of Bax to Bcl-2 ratios. BCTE also attenuated the reactive oxygen generation and lipid peroxidation in cells exposed to UVB. Additionally, it attenuated the expression of matrix metalloproteinase 1 and the phosphorylation of c-Jun N-terminal kinase stimulated by UVB. Conclusively, the present study demonstrated that BCTE pro tected skin cells from the UVB-induced cell death, oxidative stress and MMP1 expression, suggesting its potential use as a cosmetic ingredient mitigating some features of the skin photoaging.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.592-599
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• 2019

This study is to stabilize insoluble and unstable active ingredient which is Idebenone (INCI name: hydroxydecyl ubiquinone) in a multi-lamellar vesicle (MLV) and to stabilize it in the skin care cosmetics. Idebenone is good effective raw material in the treatment of Alzheimer's disease in the medical field and a powerful antioxidant in dermatology. It is well known as a substance that inhibits the formation of melanin and cleans the skin pigment. However, it did not dissolve in any solvent and it was difficult to apply in cosmetic applications. Niosome vesicle was able to develop a nano-particle by making a multi-layer of idebenone encapsulated with a nonionic surfactant, hydrogenated lecithin and glycine soja (soybean) sterols and passing it through a high pressure microfluidizer. Idebenone niosome vesicle (INV) has been developed to have the ability to dissolve transparently in water and to promote transdermal penetration. The appearance of the INV was a yellowish liquid having specific odor, and the particle size distribution of INV was about 10~80 nm. The pH was 5~8 (mean=6.8). This capsulation with idebenone was stored in a $45^{\circ}C$ incubator for 3 months and its stability was observed and quantitatively measured by HPLC. As a result, the stability of the sample encapsulated in the niosome vesicle (97.5%) was about 66.3% higher than that of the non-capsule sample of 32.5%. Idebenone 1% INV was used for the efficacy test and clinical trial evaluation as follows. The anti-oxidative activity of INV was 38.2%, which was superior to that of 12.8% tocopherol (control). The melanin-reducing effect of B16 melanoma cells was better than INV (17.4%) and Albutin (control) (9.6%). Pro-collagen synthesis rate was 128.2% for INV and 89.3% for tocopherol (control). The skin moisturizing effect was 15.5% better than the placebo sample. The elasticity effect was 9.7% better than the placebo sample. As an application field, INV containing 1% of idebenone is expected to be able to develop various functional cosmetic formulations such as skin toner, ampoule essence, cream, eye cream and sunblock cream. In addition, it is expected that this encapsulated material will be widely applicable to emulsifying agents for skin use in the pharmaceutical industry as well as the cosmetics industry.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.4 s.54
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• pp.289-293
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• 2005

Nowadays there are many sun protection cosmetics including organic or inorganic UV filter as an active ingredient. Chemically stable inorganic sunsEreen agents, usually metal oxides, we widely employed in high SPF products. Titanium dioxide is one of the most frequently used inorganic UV filters. It has been used as pigments for a long period of cosmetic history. With the development of micronization techniques, it becomes possible to incorporate titanium dioxide in sunscreen formulations without whitening effect and it becomes an important research topic. However, there are very few works related to quantitations of titanium dioxide in sunscreen products. In this research, we analyzed amounts of titanium dioxide in sunscreen cosmetics by adapting redof titration, reduction of Ti(IV) to Ti(III) and reoxidation to Ti(IV). After calcification of other organic ingredients of cosmetics, titanium dioxide is dissolved by hot sulfuric acid. The dissolved Ti(IV) is reduced to the Ti(III) by adding aluminum metals. The reduced Ti(III) is titrated against a standard oxidizing agent, Fe(III) (ammonium iron(III) sulfate), with potassium thiocyanate as an indicator In order to test accuracy and applicability of the proposed method, we analyzed the amounts of titanium dioxide in four types of sunscreen cosmetics, such as cream, make-up base, foundation and powder, after adding known amounts of titanium dioxide $(1{\sim}25w/w%)$. The percent recoveries of the titanium dioxide in four types of formulations were in the range between 96 and 105%. We also analyzed 7 commercial cosmetic products labeled titanium dioxide as an ingredient and compared the results with those of obtained from ICP-AES (Inductively Coupled Plasma-Atomic Emission Spectrometry), one of the most powerful atomic analysis techniques. The results showed that the titrated amounts were well coincided with the analyzed amounts of titanium dioxide by ICP-AES. Although instrumental analytical methods, ICP-MS (Inductively Coupled Plasma-Mass Spectrometry) and ICP-AES, are the best for the analysis of titanium, it is hard to adopt because of their high prices for small cosmetic companies. It was found that the volumetric method presented here gat e quantitative and reliable results with routine lab-wares and chemicals.