• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.617-627
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• 2010

This study selected and compared 7 tailored collar making factors from 15 clothing construction university textbooks. According to the results, in 15 clothing construction textbooks, the neckline of a tailored collar was drawn at the same length as the back neck circumference of the bodice and the length of collar stand was 3cm in 10 textbooks. In addition, the length of the collar laying varied between 2cm and 4.5cm regardless of the width of the upper collar or the textile thickness. In 7 out of the 15 textbooks, the gorge line of the collar was drawn by illustrating the collar pattern on the bodice based on the roll line and then copying it symmetrically. On the other hand, the pattern of upper collar was made in 5 ways; and 2 books did not give any explanation in the sections dealing with patterns or sewing. In addition, 6 textbooks explained that inner and outer collars are sewn with a difference. The lapel pattern of the facing part was made in 4 ways; in addition, 3 textbooks did not provide an explanation and 4 books explained that the difference is given in the sewing. The textile thickness and elasticity need to be considered in collar pattern making; however, they were not specifically mentioned in most of the textbooks.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.947-954
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to find out related factors to obtain the best collar pattern of the women's tailored jacket by analyzing the difference of the shapes between the drafted pattern and that of being stitched. The experimental conditions established are as follows. The position and angle of its break point, the notch and the width of the collar and lapel are kept unchanged. The collar decrease in neckline edge and the top collar larger than the under collar. The crossing point of gorge line is changed to make the collar's roll line straight. When the pattern is changed to make the outline of the lapel straight, the amount of cloth is changed too. According to the experimental conditions, The experimental clothes using muslin were made to. put on the manikin and the suitable methods of making the collar pattern were decided. In order to find out the influence of fabric materials on the jacket' shapes, Three kinds of wool fabrics were used and the results were evaluated. Summary of the research is as follows. When 0.5cm of the neckline edge is shortened, the standing part of the collar has less wrinkles, and its position looks natural and lastly, the material has slightly affected the collar's condition. It is desirable to make the top collar 0.2cm longer than the under collar. But the length should be different according to the fabric material. It it is thick cloth, the length has to be extended. To make the roll line straight, 0.4cm of the crossing point of gorge line should be corrected. The thick cloth needs more correction. To make the lapel's outline straight, it needs outwardly round 0.2cm more and materials make little difference to affect the shape.

• Parasites, Hosts and Diseases
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• v.62 no.1
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• pp.145-150
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• 2024

It is uncertain when the head collar and collar spines of Isthmiophora hortensis (Digenea: Echinostomatidae), a zoonotic echinostome species in Far Eastern Asia, develop during its larval stages. In this study, the appearance of the head collar and collar spines was studied using light and scanning electron microscopy in cercariae and metacercariae experimentally obtained from freshwater snails (Lymnaea pervia) and tadpoles (Rana nigromaculata), respectively. The cercariae were shed from the snail on day 30 after exposure to laboratory-hatched miracidia. Metacercariae were obtained from the experimental tadpoles at 3, 6, 12, 15, 20, 24, 26, and 30 h after exposure to the cercariae. The head collar was already visible in the cercarial stage, although its degree of development was weak. However, collar spines did not appear in the cercarial stage and even in the early metacercarial stage less than 24 h postinfection in tadpoles. Collar spines became visible in the metacercariae when they grew older than 24 h. It was concluded that the head collar of I. hortensis developed early in the cercarial stage, but the development of collar spines did not occur until the worms became 24-h-old metacercariae in our experimental setting. Counting the number of collar spines was concluded as an unfeasible diagnostic method for I. hortensis cercariae when they are shed from the snail host.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.371-382
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• 2009

In this study, I examined the psychological visual effect and clothes preference by clothes designs for the mid-aged Korean and American women's somatotypes. The psychological visual effects of each somatotypes' clothes are like these. First, the primary factors for psychological visual effect were analyzed into 5, neat, feminine, polished, modern and active. Second, in thin somatotype, Korean evaluated that china collar and V-neckline are the least feminine, and stand collar is the most polished and the modernest. American evaluated that V-neckline is the most feminine, and tailored collar is the modernest. It shows that there's the difference of culture. In standard somatotype, Korean thought stand collar with pants is the neatest, but tailored collar and china collar with pants are not neat. Contrary, they thought tailored collar with skirt is the neatest and stand collar with skirt is not neat. American thought tailored collar with skirt is the neatest and modernest. The neat visual effects are evaluated differently according to the clothes' styles of bottom. In obesity, Korean evaluated that tailored collar with skirt is the neatest and modernest, but stand collar with skirt is not modern. Stand collar with pants is the modernest, but tailored collar with pants is the least modern and active. American evaluated that round neckline with pants is not neat, modern and active, and round neckline with skirt is the modernest and the most active. So neckline's visual effects are differently showed by culture and the clothes' styles of bottom.

• Korean Journal of Occupational Health Nursing
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.164-173
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• 2001

To find out the factors affecting to the cardiorespiratory fitness of some workers in Taejon area, cardiorespiratory fitness indices, blood pressure(BP), total cholesterol level(TC), body mass indices(BMI) and life style data were collected from 169 blue collar workers and 106 white collar workers, from September to October 2000. 1. Cardiorespiratory fitness indices were increased statistically significantly by aging(p <0.05), but these was no statistically significantly difference between blue collar workers and white collar workers. 2. These were no significantly difference between types of workers by BMI, BP, blood total cholesterol level, regular exercise, alcohol drinking, smoking and psychosocial stress. 3. Age and BMI were selected affecting factors to the cardiorespiratory fitness indices in blue collar workers by multiple regression analysis, but no affecting factors selected the white collar workers.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.139-147
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• 2008

This study aims to investigate and analyze sewing methods according to the shape of the inner collar among women's jeogories in order to understand such sewing techniques, which has emerged during modern Korea, and has utilized diversly for the shape of the jeogori's inner collar and as part of the inner collar. The study was conducted on relics possessed between 1900 to 1990, or 515 pieces of jeogories. Jeogories were classified into single-layered and double-layered jeogories according to the shape of their composition. Inner collar shapes of jeogories have also been categorized. It was found that single-layered jeogories comprise 49 inner collars with shapes identical to those of the outer collars. Double-layered jeogories comprise of the following three types: 43 pieces of godae close, 18 pieces in which the inner collar of the outer bodice are cut without a connecting line and the inner collar of the godae and inner bodice are suspended, and 405 pieces in which the share of the inner collar is identical to that of the outer collar. From the shapes of inner collars mentioned above, the following sewing methods have been derived: 1. To sew the inner collar of single-layered jeogories, a seaming technique had been used. 2. Among the inner collars of a double-layered jeogori, godae close was sewn with only a short part of the godae by using a lining, and then finished with overage and blind stitches. Godae close was a covenient way to attach inner collars, and also saved much time. 3. Inner collars with shapes identical to the outer collar are divided into two groups: those with outer collars cut out fellowing the cloth without seam and shifted towards the linings and used as an inner collar, and those with outer collars made of outer linings and inner collar of inner linings. To sew the collar, paste and needlework had been employed, where the methods of needlework were divided into blind stitch, overage stitch, and catch stitch. In sewing with paste, only godae was blind stitched or overage stitched, and the remainder had been painted with paste or the collar had been finished with heated soldering iron after the entire inner collar was painted with paste.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.609-624
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to give the guideline to the pattern designing by supplying various images of the transformed shape of tailored collar with the location and angle of gorge line and laying measurement of the tailored collar while designing the tailored collar. The results of this study are as follows : Images of the sample at the case of 1cm of laying measurement looks 'urban', 'light', 'sharp', 'young', 'fashionable' and 'narrow' than that at the case of 7cm. When the laying measurement increases, the image of the sample looks more 'classical' and 'boorish'. The image of the sample 'light', 'sensuous' and 'young' at the case of sample of which laying measurements of the collar was 3cm. Second, at the case of sample whose laying measurements of the collar was 5cm, it was shown that the low location of gorge line made the image of the sample 'soft' and 'short'. On the other hand the image of the sample looked 'hard', 'keen' and 'long' by the high location of gorge line. Third, at the case of sample of which laying measurements of the collar was 7cm, low location of gorge line made the image of the sample look short. However, normal location of gorge line made the image of the sample looked 'fashionable'. The images of the samples of which laying measurements of the collar were 3cm, 5cm and 7cm, respectively, had changed with the angle of gorge line. First, the high angle of gorge line made the image of the sample 'rigid' and 'keen' at the case of sample of which laying measurements of the collar was 3cm. The high angle of gorge line made the image of the sample looked 'boorish' and 'singular'.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.117-133
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• 2014

This thesis aims to investigate the morphologic relationship among the neckline, collar, and hair style, in which the width and height were measured by selecting the representative costumes from 16th to 19th centuries. The pieces of 170 pictures selected by fashion experts were cut in the same condition, with the part of the end of shoulder, head, and chest all placed on the equal level. The products were directly measured by a team of 3 specialists for verification of this study, of which results were calculated into average. The values of output were categorized into the unit of decade and finally into a graph of variation, in which the trend and relationship were evaluated according to the width and height. In 16th century, the width and height of the neckline were inversely proportional to those of hair style, while those of collar were proportional to those of hair style. In 17th century, the width and height of the hair style were proportional to those of neckline and collar. In 18th century, those of the neckline were inversely proportional to the hair style, with no collar found. In 19th century, the width of the neckline and collar were proportional to that of the hair style, while the height of the neckline and collar were inversely proportional to that of the hair style. The analysis of the morphologic relationship among neckline, collar, and hair style resulting from this study revealed that the change of the hair style took place corresponding to those of neckline and collar. Generally, the width of the hair style was found to be more resistant to change, compared to those of neckline and collar that were more susceptible. The height of the neckline was more resistant to change, compared to those of the hair style and collar presenting their frequently fluctuating height. Conclusively, the factor of height rather than that of width showed more dominant proportions, because the various forms of the collar and hair style evolved in terms of the height rather that width, relative to that of the neckline.

• Steel and Composite Structures
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.323-342
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• 2016

To study the effect of collar-plate reinforcement on the static strength of tubular T-joints under axial loading, fundamental research work is carried out from both experimental test and finite element (FE) simulation. Through experimental tests on 7 collar-plate reinforced and 7 corresponding un-reinforced tubular T-joints under axial loading, the reinforcing efficiency is investigated. Thereafter, the static strengths of the above 14 models are analyzed by using FE method, and it is found that the numerical results agree reasonably well with the experimental data to prove the accuracy of the presented FE model. Additionally, a parametric study is conducted to analyze the effect of some geometrical parameters, i.e., the brace-to-chord diameter ratio ${\beta}$, the chord diameter-to-chord wall thickness ratio $2{\gamma}$, collar-plate thickness to chord wall thickness ratio ${\tau}_c$, and collar-plate length to brace diameter ratio $l_c/d_1$, on the static strength of a tubular T-joint. The parametric study shows that the static strength can be greatly improved by increasing the collar-plate thickness to chord wall thickness ratio ${\tau}_c$ and the collar-plate length to brace diameter ratio $l_c/d_1$. Based on the numerical results, parametric equations are obtained from curving fitting technique to estimate the static strength of a tubular T-joint with collar-plate reinforcement under axial loading, and the accuracy of these equations is also evaluated from error analysis.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Hazard Mitigation
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• v.3 no.2 s.9
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• pp.139-145
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• 2003

This study is to propose reduction effect of scour depth and a optimum size of circular collar through experimental analyses with various collar sizes. To do so, we carried out hydraulic model experiments. In the case of with considering the collar, the effect of reduction of scour depth increased according to the increase of collar size. When size of collar is 2 as the ratio of collar diameter(W) to pier diameter(D), scour depth is decreased about 67% and deposition height is increased about 70%. The optimal size of collar proposed in this study is W/D=2 by analyzing reduction effect of scour depth, size of scour hole, and deposition height.