• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.66-82
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• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal boily shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Manipulation of physicality entails the reconstruction of the ideal body image through the clothes that modify physicality into unnatural body. Ruff collar, gigot sleeve, crinoline, bustle, stomacher, and corset were all used to materialize the fictitious curves symbolizing femininity, authority, healthiness, maternity, virginity, socioeconomic status, and fertility. Accentuating specific clothing parts represents emphasizing the symbolism of the correspondent body parts. Consequently, in this phase signifiant is $signifi\'{e}$. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the firm of a dress. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.6
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• pp.32-45
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to propose changes that can be made to improve nurse uniforms in terms of outfit and functionality based on actual wearing conditions and nurse's preference. The proposed nurse uniform was composed of a blouse and pants. The design was as follows: the blouse had short set-in sleeve with China collar, a princess line, and it came down to middle hip. Armhole action pleats and back inverted pleats were embedded for convenient arm movements. The pants waist had a rubber band at the back waist, and the crotch length and the knee width were increased for activity. To make the pocket more accommodative, separate pocket slots treated with silicone were added to prevent belongings from coming out of the pocket. The pink tone of the uniforms, as well as the stripes on the blouses and spandex incorporated pants were based on nurses' preference. the nurse uniforms were produced after measuring the size of women in the age of 25 to 29, and the uniform patterns were corrected after two wearing experiments. Wearing test was examined in terms of appearance and functionality. For appearance, experts gave the uniforms a mean rating of 4.30, and nurses gave a mean rating of 4.00. Functionality was evaluated in terms of ease of activity and storage aspects. The total mean of ease of activity in nursing service was 4.30, whereas the evaluation of storage in terms of pocket position and convenience was 3.80.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.106
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• pp.105-120
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• 2006

Today's radical change of environment and technology spreaded high-technology art by cutting across a general idea of art, expressed machine aesthetic in fashion style by influencing materials and production processes of fashion. The purpose of this research is to take another look at the value and the importance of ornaments in terms of fashion design, to overcome the negative aspect of Technology Fashion by designing Retro Technology Fashion that harmonizes reason with sensibilities through floral patterns. The results of this study are as followings. 1. If Retro technology Fashion was analyzed by time and space element that are postmodernism techniques, there are Ethnic Technology Fashion that are based on space and historical Technology Fashion that are based on time. In terms of spare element, there is the hybrid of revival of exotic folklore with Technology fashion. In terms of time element, there is the hybrid of costumes of before 20th Century with Technology Fashion. It means unifying detail or silhouette of costumes of ancient time to modern time wit Technology Fashion. For another time element, the hybrid of retro fashion after 20th Century with Technology Fashion. The retro nostalgia is revived by the floral patterns or silhouette of Hippie fashion unified with Technology Fashion. 2. Based on above research, Retro Technology Fashion with floral pattern on CAD were designed. As the results, for Ethno Fashion that is spatial retro, 'Asian Technology fashion' was designed with bright colors, China collar that are oriental, and vinyl material. For historical Technology fashion that are based on time, 'Space Middle Age' was designed with tight silhouette, party colored pants and plastic material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

The objective of this study is to analyze the characteristic of a functional design for a commercial outdoor brand jacket based on 3 types of functions : windproof, waterproof, and cold proof. To analyze the design and fabric characteristics of outdoor jackets by function, 903 men's and women's outdoor jacket images were selected from the catalogues during S/S 2009 - F/W 2011 of the 6 brands: The North Face, Columbia Sports Wear, Kolon Sports, K2, Arcteryx and Mont-Bell. These brands were selected based on their high market share and brand awareness of the outdoor brands in Korea. In this study, design elements analysis was conducted as following 8 elements: hood/collar height/central front flap/waistline/pocket location/ventilation for the body part/sleeve patterns/cuff for the sleeve part. Fabrics were analyzed by the frequency of fabric types used in the 3 jacket types. According to the result derived from the analysis of the six brands of outdoor wear jacket design trends by year, detachable hood and a co-use of velcro and elastic bands have been mainly designed for all of windproof, waterproof, and cold proof jacket to all in order to respond quickly to changes in the external environment. For reinforced storage function on trekking, the number of pockets has been gradually growing, and a function was being developed to connect an electronic device to a pocket. The method, result, and collateral observations relevant to each of these phases are described. Outdoor jacket design characteristics were investigated for outdoor brands, which can provide data to suggest more accurate functional design, and satisfy functional design needs. In this regard, this research was significant in the sense that it suggested preliminary data to reconsider competitiveness of the brand products.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1153-1164
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to analyze the coordination images seen in comprehensive fashion items and their features. This will be done from the viewpoint of both the creativity as well as functional characteristics of items and images. For the method of study, I explored the idea of "snood" style, analyzing its features of 42 pictures appearing from the 2006 S/S to 2010 F/W collection. It is important to note that "snood" style has the characteristics of both a muffler and turtleneck. With looping design connected at both ends, it can be placed around the neck or head, creating the image of wearing a hood. After having examined the selected data and pictures, one can largely divide the exclusive high-fashion image categories into three types: feminine, avant-garde, and finally, active & functional sportive image. First, the orthodox image is widely accepted by most as it has forever evolved within the original tradition of the practically functional muffler(scarf). Second, since the metamorphic image tends to lend itself to free ideas, you can wear a snood around the shoulders like a collar. Worn together with the same type of clothing, the snood can be seen as an effective suit. Third, the aim of image emphasis is to highlight certain points, or make some features more noticeable, as a means of possibly attracting more interest and attention. The image of snood arises out of the use of shapes, colors, and other accessory parts. As mentioned earlier, snood stands out as an independent item instead of just being an accessory to clothing. Its primary function as a style coordinator is emphasized in order to create more distinctive fashion images. Through this study, I thereby intend to provide fashion style data on the latest trends, and high-fashion codes of snood coordination.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.68-79
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• 1997

In this thesis which takes fashion advertising that functions a marketing communication as an objective, I try to bear witness to the signifying system of garments though analyzing with semiotic methodology the signifying procedure on the base of the structural concept of Ferdinand de Saussure and the advertisement semiotic theory of Roland Barthes, to make clear their signifying structure and it meaning by understanding the characteristics of contemporary society and its cognitive system. Each sign of fashion advertising transfers the brand image through syntagmatic signification which contains the mythology of goods. Mannish style is encoded as tailored jacket, white shirt, H-silhouette and pants, non-color or being color, and it is presented as a clothing sign of casual wear for career women. Feminine style is encoded as X-silhouette, soutien collar suit style, various colors, and other details with womanly image, and it is presented as a clothing sign for maid or young wife 20\`s or 30\`s. Formal style is encoded as jacket vest, inner wear(blouse), two and three piece dress by pants or skirt and one-piece dress, and it is used in every age and class. Casual style is similar to formal style, but differs only in textile code. Clothing sign for housewives in middle age is encoded as H-silhouette of formal style, long jacket and pants and brown, being and grey colors. Contemporary popular phenomena in the signification of fashion advertising, and its temporal ideology reflected are as follows; According to the context of fashion advertising in the middle of 1990\`s, its fashion is that first, military look applied from the designs of various sort of military uniform and vest look and pant style applied from dandy-style imitated from man\`s wear are popuar. This mean that it reflects the change of point of view on woman\`s role in society today. That is, due to the equality between man and woman, it mirrors the ideology of feminism, and then, describes beautifully professional woman with carrer. Second, because that individualism is underlied for the change of consumer\`s consciousness, standardized popularity is disappeared, and in accordance with the mixture of various trends and personalities proposed every season, layered look that emphasizes individualism, easiness and naturalness is popular.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.117-133
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• 2022

In order to reflect traditional elements in modern design, designers should be able to creatively apply elements of traditional Chinese clothing. To understand this, a deep understanding of and insights into the traditional clothing culture are required. In this study, the characteristics of traditional Chinese women's clothing from the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties of China to the Qing Dynasty were analyzed by dividing them into silhouette, color, pattern, materials, and detail. The characteristics of the silhouette were classified into A, H, X, and O types, of which types A and H were the most common. As for the color characteristics, there are relatively many five cardinal colors, and for the contrast of colors complementary colors were mainly used. As the for pattern characteristics, real patterns, animal patterns, character patterns, geometric patterns, and mixed patterns were used. Four types of materials were mainly used: silk, hemp, cotton, and wool. The detail characteristics were also anlyzed by classifying them into collar, sleeve, neckband, and gusset. Based on the results of this analysis, a satisfaction survey was conducted on the design of modern Chinese women's clothing. The result of satisfaction with design elements showed that the images of vest and suit were most preferred, H and X silhouettes, and yellow and white were the most preferred. Geometric and plant patterns were preferred, as were silk and acetate materials. Based on the result of chi-square analysis of design element preferences according to the characteristics of the subject, there was no difference according to occupation, residential area, or income, and there were differences in silhouette, color, materials, and detail according to age.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.187-202
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• 1999

The objectives of this study were to analyze the effect of dress(Korean traditional dress and suit) of elderly Women and situation on impression formation. The experimental design was $10\times{2}\times{2(dress}\times{perceiver's age}\times{situation)}$ factorial design by 3 independent variables. The stimuli of color photographs of female in her 60's model and the semantic differential scale were used. Six variables of impression formation were used: preference: elegance: potency: activity: feminine: and modernity. Samples were 400 women 200 were in their twenties and 200 in their forties and fifties. The data were analyzed by $\alpha$-reliability t-test ANOVA and duncan's multiple range test. The Korean traditional dress with the combination of Korean traditional color(light blue upper dress with dark red purple collar and string.dark blue skit) had the most positive effect on impression of elegance. Pink traditional dress and light blue traditional dress had a negative effect on impression of potency activity and modernity. Red purple suit had a positive effect on potency and modernity. The interaction between dress perceiver's age and stituation was significant for the impression of activity. Women in their 40's and 50's perceived the activity of red purple suit positively in the situation of alumnae meeting more than in the wedding ceremony. The perceived age of the stimulus person was different according to dresses. Traditional dresses was perceived older than suits were. Women in their 40's and 50's evaluated preferences of the dresses positively more than 20's did. This means that 40's and 50's feel similarity with the stimulus person more than 20's as the age of model was in their 60's The result supports the theory that similarity is basic factor in interpersonal attraction.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.121-132
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to analyze the Korean Formative-Artistic Characteristics which were expressed by Hanbok designers. In this research, Hanbok style is a combination of two main things: formative-artistic factors of the Korean past, which naturally focuses on the peculiarity of the tradition and the modern aspects of clothing. Hanbok fashion is defined as all products created by Hanbok designers that incorporate traditional design factors, but do not follow it exactly. There are four formative-artistic characteristics of Korean designs in the Hanbok fashion. The first is the practical usage of the form and the second is the application of texture, color and patterns of materials which are synonymous with traditional Korean costumes; the third, by utilizing specific features, such as a the string of Jeogori(jacket), the round line of Jeogori sleeve, quilting, slit of Dofo (coat), the line of goreum and git (collar), the beauty of the Hanbok can be expressed in various ways; finally, the decorations added to the clothing, like embroidery, dying, patchwork, and beaten silver have been used to express Korean beauty in a modern sense. At the conclusion of the research, the study suggests the following recommendations to upgrade the Hanbok designs and the Hanbok industry. The first recommendation is that continuous design research be done for the development and popularity of the brand image; secondly, collaboration with specialists from other areas of fashion would be beneficial; thirdly, it would be a positive development if Hanbok designers studied Western clothing; and fourthly, Hanbok materials should continue to evolve and be developed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.483-503
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to clarify the origin which have misused terms, analyze Its meanings and suggest the unified terms. The content of this study are as follows. The origin of the terms in western dress is different with the areas of cultural influence. Japanese occupied much more than other languages in the apparel industry after the civilization. and English has dominated in the educational filed since 1945 the Liberalization. French, German, Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch are added. These languages came to the clothing field via Japanese and English or directly from the countries. 망토(manteau프), 메리야스(medias스), 러닝셔츠(일) 라사(raxa네), 오트 쿠튀르(Haute Couture 프), 비로드(veludo 포), etc. However the words of foreign origin have misused or corrupted until now a days. 마이 (재킷, 상의), 노 슬립, 소데나시 (슬리브리스, 민소매) 넌라쟈(브래지어), 노타이, 노타이샤쓰(오픈칼라 셔츠, 넥타이를 매지 않은 셔츠) 와이샤쓰(드레스 ttu츠), etc. And also these terms are confused in using because of the word's diversity, the different nationality, change of the marking rules, and the difference between the education and production field terms. On the others hand, this study explained the differences between western costume and Korean costume as the clothing manufacture terms were translated to Korean. bodice-길, collar, neckline-깃, belt, sash-(허리)띠 And then the untied terms were suggested through the comparison production field and educational area (including schools and institutes). lapel, 라펠(학교용어) (학원용어), 가에리 (일) (의류산업 현장용어), 아랫깃(통일어) By the way, this study involved the origin of and misused teams in sewing and presented the unified terms. 미까시 (X)-미 카에시(일) - 안단($\bigcirc$), 이새(X)―홈줄임 ($\bigcirc$) As the above , the characteristics of clothing terms which have misused are Japans,;e, corrupt Japanese, false reports foreign words via Korean, Japanese, compound words of Korean and Japanese, compound words of English and Japanese. And also the words of foreign origin in clothing had the following tendency in the marking system. There are ellipsis of form, sex, timber, grammatical case '-ing', '-ed' in adjective and long vowels express to short vowels. We can see this phenomena as the rule of curtailment labor.