• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.84-100
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• 2013

Ancient Greece was a patriarchal society that distinguished gender roles between men and women. Although their costumes were composed of simple rectangular fabric without any technical complications in itself, the Greeks did try to express gender differences in their clothing. The final look of the Greek costume was dependent on the way the cloth draped onto its wearer as well as the wearer's identity. Greeks costume could just be seen as a rectangular fabric when it was not draped on a person's body. The purpose of this study is to examine how the gender differences were expressed in the ancient Greek drapery costume, which was made by using a completely different technical process, compared with the modern tailored costume. There are four elements of the costume that give the costume its formative shape, which are the wearer's body, the rectangular fabric (material as the first formative costume), the way the fabric is draped, and the final appearance as the second formative costume (the relationship between the wearer's body and the costume) and this study analyzes these elements individually. It is intended to analyze the gender characteristics and how each element appears in a different way from the perspective of Structuralism, an analytical method that considers a phenomenon as a total sum of the elements. Literature research was conducted and representative sculpture, painting and pottery, were used between the Archaic Period (B.C. 800~500) and the Classical Period (B.C. 500~323). The results show that the gender differences appear in each formative element of costume: First, the body was distinguished by the ancient Greek custom. The man's nudity was accepted while the woman's body was concealed. Second, in regards to the first formative costume, which was the rectangular fabric, men's were made with thick high quality wool because their involvement in outdoor activities meant that they needed clothes to stay warm, while the women wore clothes made of thin wool or hemp cloth, because their most of their activities were at home. Third, the way to drape the fabric shows the gender differences by changing the length of the clothing and its design ; men's short khiton was practical for big movement and at the same time the clothing exposed the man's body. The woman's doric khiton diversified its decoration by the size of the apotigma and by using the belt. Finally the second formative costume reflected the Greeks' social distinction between a man's body and a woman's body. The man's costume naturally exposed the man's body. On the other hand, the woman's long costume has a variety of shapes on the ground, that concealed her lower body, while the ornamental function was more accentuated than the man's costume. The gender differences expressed in Greek costume fundamentally reflected the point of view of the male and female body and their social roles in society.

• Asia-Pacific Journal of Business
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.67-85
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• 2023

Purpose - This study seeks to investigate the determinants of global sourcing intention in clothing sewing industry, in particular with its focus on women's knit wear production. Design/methodology/approach - This study collected a unique set of qualitative data through 31 in-depth interviews with fashion brands, promotion agencies, and sewing factories between July 2023 and October 2023. In addition, it analyzed the dataset using the MAXQDA to complement the research findings. Findings - We have two findings. First, the interviewees commonly mentioned the following factors as reasons for considering global sourcing: the human factors(aging of skilled technicians and labor shortages), the financial factors(gap in production unit prices at home and abroad), the relational factors(lack of novelty), and the physical factors(loss of production infrastructure and network), while the human factors(skilled workforce), the production factors(delivery date and product quality), and the relational factors(timely communication and mutual trust) as reasons for continuing domestic sourcing. Additional code analysis of interview also supports this finding. On the other hand, there was also a subtle difference between buyers(brands) and suppliers(promotion agencies and processing plants), and buyers consider the exact delivery date critical so that they could see trend-sensitive women's knit wear on time, and suppliers took production costs, labor costs, and labor shortages, which are financial factors, more seriously. Research implications or Originality - This study provides a richer and more balanced view of existing literature, which has generally tended to introduce global sourcing across the clothing industry despite the existence of various diversity within the industry. In addition, through qualitative research, we introduce that the sewing industry is carried out according to complex factors, and by revealing and categorizing the determinants of global sourcing, we supplement the existing research on the clothing sewing industry centered on survey. On a practical note, this study introduces that there is a difference in view of domestic sourcing and global sourcing between buyers(brands) and suppliers(promotion agencies and sewing factories), suggesting practical implications for revitalizing networks and deriving win-win cooperation network models among members in the future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.811-825
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to identify imported apparel selection behavior according to Mongol women's conspicuous consumption orientation. A self-administered questionnaire was used for data collection. First, factors of conspicuous consumption orientation were high price and luxury brand, fashion style, altruism, prestige, and brand. Mongol women were segmented into the price and prestige pursuit group, the fashion and brand pursuit group, the altruism pursuit group, and the conspicuous consumption retard group. Second, factors of motivating the selection of imported apparel were value, symbolism, and aesthetics, and Mongol women considered the aesthetics of imported apparel important. Married Mongol women in their 30's chose imported apparel because of its symbolism. More married women selected imported apparel because of its value and more educated women selected imported apparel because of its aesthetics. Women with higher apparel expenditure selected imported apparel because of its value and symbolism. Quality, diversity, and the fit of imported apparel were the selection criteria for Mongol women and they were satisfied with the quality, diversity, and fit of the imported apparel. Brand awareness was very important when selecting imported apparel but the women's satisfaction level was significantly low. Third, more women in their 30's, unmarried, or with a lower educational level were found in the price and the prestige pursuit group, and the price and prestige pursuit group and the altruism pursuit group selected imported apparel for its aesthetics. More unmarried women in their 30's with a higher educational level were found in the fashion and brand pursuit group and selected imported apparel for its value, symbolism, and aesthetics. More unmarried women in their 20's with a higher educational level were found in the altruism pursuit group, but unmarried women in their 20's with a lower educational level were found in the conspicuous consumption retard group.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.646-660
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• 2008

Korean export of fashion products to the U.S. has fallen off sharply after 2001. Now, Korean fashion companies have to develop higher value-added business. In the U.S., Korean-American fashion companies are taking a primary role in up-stream of the fashion industry. To cut the edge over the U.S. fashion companies, one of the solutions could be to build the business relationship with Korean fashion companies which reflect the recent trend rapidly and have high quality production. On this study, we investigated the marketing strategies of Korean-American fashion companies to seek to start business with Korean fashion companies and make suggestions for Korean fashion companies who want to enter into the U.S. market effectively. To analyze current situation of Korean export to the U.S. and the U.S. fashion industry, we considered various kinds of statistic data, publications and studies. And we performed in-depth interviews with 9 Korean-American fashion companies in LA from $9^{th}$ to $21^{st}$ of July. The results are as follows. first, Korean fashion companies should aim for high-end market with the products of high quality and design. Second, there should be professional agents who manage Korean small-medium fashion companies and connect them with Korean-American fashion companies. Third, Korean fashion companies who want to enter into the retail market of the U.S. have to decide the target market clearly and plan strategic and differentiated merchandising. Fourth, Korean fashion companies can specialize in product developing service like proposing a product or a merchandising line as a package including designs, fabric swatches, trims, production information, etc.

• Journal of the Economic Geographical Society of Korea
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.53-81
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• 2000

Between 1980 and 1997 the Korean textile and clothing industry (KTCI) experienced the transformation of export-led accumulation regime rooted in domestically-derived price competitiveness into the combination between foreign mass production involving the geographical extension of productive forces and quality strategy based on upgrading technology and automation involved in the domestic market for high quality and price products. This restructuring of the KTCI is rooted at the crisis in the export-led growth regime implemented unity 1980 due to the rapid increase in wage levels by the ‘great labour movement’occurred in 1987. In particular, increased wage and collective bargaining realized through labour empowerment led to the crisis in the conjoin between mass production and mass export based on long working hours and low wage structure. The aim of this paper is to explore the transformation of development modes between 1980 and 1997 that can help us in understanding the fundamental reasons for the restructuring of the KTCI. To this end, the paper identifiles the changing accumulation regimes between 1980 and 1997 mediated by wage-labour relations, inter-firm relations and state-film relations, which are insitutional forms of the modes of regulation.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.17-27
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• 2008

Black garments can lose color, image, and be the main cause of color staining when washed with other laundry that can cause color contamination from interaction with other garments. To know the fiber-based dye fastness for colored garments, 4-5 pieces of various fibers of different fabrics were selected; cotton, linen, wool, silk, rayon, acetate, polyester, and nylon. To determine the colorfastness to washing and crocking, the black fabrics were washed with alkali and neutral detergents under the Laund-O-Meter method under the Crockmeter method. In an alkali detergent laundering conditions, most colored samples did not undergo color or light fastness. However, most of the stained fabrics slightly changed in K/S values while other samples underwent severe changes. With neutral detergent laundering, sample fabrics underwent less shrinking, and had less naps. The stained fabrics also underwent less change in K/S values. With time-repeatedly-washing the original sample went through colorfastness to lose color. In crocking fastness, most samples produced good to excellent results under dry conditions but produced relatively low crocking fastness under wet conditions. Natural fibers especially showed lower crocking fastness than artificial fibers. In conclusion, garments of the same color should be laundered together. The black garments that are washed using neutral detergents can decrease the amount of damage from color change. While it is the responsibility of garment producers to provide appropriate quality indications they should also provide adequate instructions for consumers to understand and appropriately cope with the quality indications in order to contribute to establishing a correct laundering method.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.554-563
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to investigate the purchase behavior, the level of shopping satisfaction for inbound Chinese tourists buying fashion products and the analysis of the influence of fashion product purchase criteria and effects of store attributes toward shopping satisfaction in Korea. Subjects were selected through convenient sampling technique in Incheon International Airport. A self-administered questionnaire was developed in Chinese by translation and back-translation method. Finally, 284 questionnaire out of 420 were used for data analysis. To analyze data, factor analysis, correlation analysis, regression analysis, etc. were carried out. A used statistical package was PASW 18.0. The analysis results were as follows. First, most of the repondents were women in 20s and 30s, who were purchasing fashion products more than other during the period of travel. Second, the product purchase criteria were identified as 'practicality', 'design and quality', 'memorabilia' and 'hallyu'. As the analysis results, shopping satisfaction was influenced by 'design and quality' and 'hallyu'. Thirdly, the effects of store attributes were identified as 'product', 'environment' and 'employees'. and customer's shopping satisfaction was influenced by all of those. By the end of this paper, For the purpose of achieving more competitive fashion products, the 4P marketing strategies targeting Chinese tourists were discussed based on the results.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.251-262
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is understanding female high school student's make-up culture by developing the recognition criteria for their make-up behavior and anxiety in purchasing cosmetics. This study targeted 524 female high school students who attended vocational and academic high school located in Daegu, Korea. SPSS WIN package was used fur statistics and MANOVA, ANOVA, LSD post-verification was conducted for data analysis. The conclusion of this study is as fellowed ; (1) Academic groups showed statistically different tendency to 6 reasons of make-up behavior ; interest in make-up was chosen most for the reason and etiquette, make-up satisfaction, aesthetics, fashion, synchronism comes next in the order. (2) In case of vocational group, it also showed different tendency to 6 reasons of make-up behavior ; interest in make-up was also most highly chosen reason as the academic group and etiquette was next and then make-up satisfaction, aesthetics, fashion were same level and synchronism was shown to be the lowest chosen reason in the order. (3) Academic group showed different level of anxiety from the 11 reasons of anxiety in purchasing cosmetics ; also anxiety of material was highly chosen reason and then fitness, price, color, quality, utility, purchasing, after service, fashion, label-trust, other people's comments comes next for the reason. (4) Vocational group also showed different level of anxiety from 11 reasons of anxiety in purchasing cosmetics; also anxiety of material was highest reason (same as the academic group) and then fitness, color, quality, price, utility, after service, label-trust, fashion, buying, other people's comments comes next for the reason.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.6
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• pp.131-145
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide preliminary data on strategies to create a domestic prestige brand based on Korean traditional designs. This study also deals with how to promote this brand around the world. The two points mentioned above will be accomplished by examining the characteristics of the brand '3.1 Phillip Lim' which succeeded in both design and marketing during a short period of time. The method of the study will be followed. Firstly, the basic design and philosophical background of Phillip Lim was investigated, after reviewing the global luxury market and current status of overseas expansion of Korean designers through paper study and antecedent workups. Secondly, for the practical stage, design characteristics and marketing strategies were reviewed with the collections of '3.1 Phillip Lim'. Three factors found in '3.1 Phillip Lim's design success are as follows: First, practical and simple designs using fabrics of high quality. Second, handcraft elements and interesting details that differentiates his design identity. Third, femininity expressed in the feminine silhouette and color. The marketing elements that made '3.1 Phillip Lim' as a successful brand are: First, differentiated positioning as a luxurious contemporary brand. Second, brand promotion through various collaborations. Third, the gradual expansion of women's, men's, kids' apparel to accessory, lingerie and the stable flagship stores. Thus, '3.1 Phillip Lim' has combined modern and classic styles using high quality fabrics and practical designs with unique details. Through it's differentiated marketing strategy targeting New York's market, which prefers popular 'luxury contemporary brand's rather than high-end luxury brands, this brand's creativity and commercial aspects contributed to make '3.1 Phillip Lim' into a luxury brand that represents New York fashion. Korean designers who seek to enter the global fashion industry should consider applying Korean traditional designs on global designs to make favorable products and localize these products according to regional characteristics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1315-1322
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• 1997

Ramie is one of the traditional fabrics in Korea, and very comfortable fabric for summer clothes because it has a high moisture-absorbing and transporting property. Futhermore ramie is very popular and Koreans prefer its handle for summer clothes. The kansan ramie has better quality as fibers and can be weaved as fine fabrics which are famous as kansan Fine ramie. Even though the good quality of kansan ramie has known widely, very few research work have been carried out on kansan ramie in the field of textile science. In this study, the analysis of the physical and chemical characteristics of Hansan ramie was conducted by using two different kinds of Hansan ramie: Hansan Fine ramie and kansan Coarse ramie. In addition, the same experiment was held on the one kind of chinese ramie to be compared with those of Hansan ramie. The following results were obtained from this experimental study. By the analysis of chemical composition of ramie, the similar chemical composition (a -cellulose: 83∼85%, pectin substances: 2.81∼ 3.01%) were found from all of the ramie fabrics used in this study. It has shown that Hansan coarse ramie has the highest toughness value and wrinkle recovery angle among the samples used in this study. From the result of KES-F system, it was found that Hansan Coarse ramie which is composed with the thicker yarns has the highest value on the bending properties, 2HG and surface properties. The primary hand value was also calculated by KN-203 LDY and value of Koshi was shown as the order of kansan coarse ramie> Chinese ramie> kansan fine ramie, and Hansan fine ramie had shown the highest Numeri and Fukurami value among the 3 samples used in this study.