• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권7호
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• pp.1109-1120
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• 2009

This study develops a fitted torso type basic pattern for men by utilizing 3D body scan data. Recent fashion trends are reflected in the development of the pattern. The subjects were 15 men in their 20's, who wear size 95 (M size). Body scan data was obtained through a 3D whole body scanner (WB4, Cyberware, USA), and a body surface development figure for developing male fitted torso type basic pattern was attained through the use of Rapid Form 2006 as well as Auto CAD 2006 programs. The results are as follows: A body surface development figure through body surface segment method showed high exactitude in an error range of 100$\pm$1%. In addition, it occurred in an error range of 100:1:3% because of the hard scanning conditions in the incline of the shoulder and armpit areas. However, the body surface development figure as well as the direct measurement results can be used as basic data for the given patternmaking since the error range falls into 100$\pm$3%. Dart amounts obtained from the average cross section were center back 2.2cm (24.3%), back armpit point 3.8cm (41.8%), front armpit point 3.0cm (33.9%). As shown the jacket pattern, the biggest dart amount was portioned out at the back armpit point. The drafting equations for the development pattern acquired are as follows; Full width=C/2+5cm, back length=height/4-1cm, armhole depth=(C/10+12cm)+3cm, back width=2C/10+2cm, front width=2C/10. The development pattern was a fitted torso basic pattern that was composed of 3 pieces, so it would be very useful in developing shirt or jacket patterns. According to the results of the evaluation of the developed pattern appearance, it obtained higher scores of over 3.5 points in almost items, meaning that the developed pattern is appropriate for a male fitted torso type basic pattern. It suggests a possibility of patternmaking from a body surface development figure in 2-D to prototype.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.57-75
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• 2010

This study is done in Shanghai area by sample survey of female college students in their lower 20s. Through direct contact survey, this study collected and analyzed information on figure to understand feature of breasts and measurements of body to provide base information to improve product of brassiere for adult female in China. Data was analyzed by using SPSSWIN 13.0 Program and SAS 9.0. 1. From a result of factor analysis on 40 items of measures to derive the components of the shape of the breast, 6 factors were derived such as the factors to show the obesity of the bust, to show the ratio of the upper and lower area of the lower bust, droop and volume, to show the internal shape and broadness of the bust, to show the location and vertical size of the bust, to show the protrusion of the bust and the eternal shape of the bust. 2. From a result of classification on the shape of the breast of the Chinese women in their early 20s, 4 types were selected. Type 1 is the protrusion type that a woman has a broad drooped breast due to the development in the upper and lower parts of the chest as well as the highest height, a high degree of obesity in the bust part, big volume and much protrusion. Type 2 is the hemisphere type that the degree of obesity in the breast is second to Type 1 and a breast is located at a region higher than Type 1 as the degree of obesity in the breast is secondly highest, the lower part of the bust is bigger than the Type 1 and the degree of being broad and drooped is second to Type 1. Type 3 is the cone type with a breast of being drooped and broad a little bit and a certain degree of a volume. Type 4 is the flat type with the smallest value in the item that shows the obesity of the bust area and with the smallest value in the R$\ddot{o}$hrer index to have the small and slender body type for the bust area, which is somewhat flat due to a low slope at the internal side of the bust.

• 복식
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• 제53권7호
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• pp.95-109
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• 2003

The style of different styles of clothing have been developed by not only the natural environment and social effects. but also by various variables such as the peculiar cultures and religions of different ethnic groups. It is naturally accepted without question that the origin of trousers was derived from the Skytie race in the modern style of dress. And the style of those trousers has changed and developed throughout a long history in different environments and surroundings. As part of the research of the process in this styles of clothing, it is essential to know how the fabric of trousers has been developed and how the styles have been changed because of different weather conditions and different religions. Nowadays, Eurasian countries was scattered from western and eastern Asian countries to middle Asian countries such as Russia, Uzbekistan, Kazakistan, Turkey, Turkmenistan, Iran and China. These countries are located on the way to the Silk Road. They are fully developed in a cultural area among the different religions. In terms of cultural aspects within the different religions, men's trousers had developed the traditional style of this dress as one of the importnat items on the cultural basis. The ranges and types of these traditional trousers are divided by the regions, such as west and southern Asia, central Asia and China. Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, Iraq, Syria, Lebanon, Turkey. Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and Israel was a part of the west and southern Asian countries which were located between western countries and eastern countries. This tribes wore Shalwar trousers which is a wide style of trousers. Shalwar in the western and eastern Asian region has a specific feature by the each nation but has the same distinctions such as by using very wide and loose style and tying a fine thread around the waist. Some central Asian countries consisted of part of China, Turkmenistan. the Republic of Tajikistan. the Republic of Kyrgyzstan and the Republic of Afganistan. These style of trousers are compound types which appeared with mixing Draperian Greek culture. So it can be inferred from this data that the horse-riding nomadic trousers which had been handed down from Skytie tribe through Persia. The style of the trousers in those regions has small pieces. The style of the trousers in China, which is located on the way to the far eastern countries, has developed new trousers put together two pieces of the textile. These widen trousers can be worn by using a sash belt. So we can find out that those trousers of countries which mentioned above have a common point and a rule.

• 한국가정과교육학회지
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• 제28권4호
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• pp.61-77
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• 2016

본 연구는 중학교 1, 2학년 남녀 학생 205명을 대상으로 초등학교 6학년 때 경험한 바느질실습 수업에 대한 인식과 현재의 요구를 알아보고, 중학교 바느질실습 수업 개선을 위한 정보를 수집하거나 시사점을 도출하기 위해 실시되었다. 연구 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 학생들의 실습내용이나 교수 학습 방법에 대한 만족도는 중간값(3.00)보다 약간 높게 나타났다. 수업 평가의 하위 영역 중 참여도가 평균이 가장 높았고 그 다음으로는 흥미도, 난이도, 필요도, 중요도, 활용도 순이었으며 모두 성별에 따른 유의한 차이를 보여 여학생이 남학생보다 바느질실습 수업을 긍정적으로 인식하고 있었다. 따라서 가정교사는 이를 염두에 두고 수업을 설계하거나 성별에 따른 인식 차이의 원인이나 요구를 파악해야 한다. 둘째, 학생들의 바느질실습 수업 평가에 성별, 실습내용, 교수 학습 방법 등이 영향을 미치는 요인임을 확인하였다. 가정교사는 성별이나 학년에 상관없이 실습내용에 대한 학생들의 만족도를 높이기 위해 학생들이 실습내용을 자유롭게 선정하도록 할 필요가 있다. 다양한 실습내용으로 실습하기 위해서는 학생 중심 활동이나 모둠 중심 활동이 이루어져야 한다. 마지막으로 학생들은 생활용품과 장식품을 만들거나 자신이 만들고 싶은 것을 자유롭게 만들기를 희망하였다. 구상한 것을 자유롭게 만들거나 모둠 활동을 통해 모둠 작품을 만드는 새로운 교수 학습 방법에 대한 학생들의 요구는 중간값보다 높게 나타났다. 본 연구에서 조사한 요구나 도출한 시사점을 가정교사가 수업을 설계하는데 반영한다면 바느질실습 수업에 대한 학생들의 인식이 긍정적으로 변화될 것이다.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.161-170
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• 2013

본 연구의 목적은 실질적인 출토복식의 보수를 통해서 보수방법의 합리적인 방안을 모색하는데 있다. 출토복식의 경우 유기물이라는 특징으로 인해 출토되는 순간 이미 위약한 상태이므로 출토복식에 대한 상태를 철저히 조사한 후 가능한 물리적 힘을 가하지 않는 방법으로 최소한의 보수만을 진행하였다. 그리고 다음과 같은 과정으로 보수하였다. 보수는 출토복식의 상태에 따라 보수 가능한 것을 분류하여 출토복식 직물의 상태를 고려하여 최대한 안정하게 적용시켰다. 보수용 실의 경우는 강도가 약한 정련한 얇은 주아사의 실을 뽑아서 사용하거나 광열화시킨 명주실을 사용하였다. 보수용 직물은 직물의 종류에 따라 셀룰로오스 계 직물은 면직물을 견직물은 주아사나 명주를 정련하여 사용하였으며 일부는 비슷한 색을 내기위해 오리나무 염색과 감 염색을 하였고 방충 방균 처리를 위해 정향으로 염색한 천을 사용하여 보수하였다. 보수의 방법은 손상형태 및 복식의 구성양식에 따라 구분하여 실시하였다. 보수의 바느질법은 시침질, 홈질, 박음질, 공그르기, 감침질의 방법을 사용하여 훼손 부위와 상태에 적합한 바느질법을 선택하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권3호
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• pp.280-291
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• 2013

This paper analyzes desirable breast types using measurements from 31 selected female subjects based on the ratio of breast in works of art and to design a brassiere cup design according to the breast type of 182 female subjects in their 20s. The subjects selected for this paper are somewhat larger than a previous study on aesthetically perfect breasts of foreigners according to chest breadth, center neck point to breast point, breast circumference, and breast volume. However, the aesthetic breasts of foreigners are larger than the subjects selected for this study according to chest depth, under-bust circumference, and bust point to bust point. Comparing various breasts types and aesthetic breasts, padding is necessary to complement the form of flat breasts to increase the volume and diameter. Brassiere cups for cone-shaped breasts should be designed to increase breast volume through an increase in nipple height. Hemisphere breasts should be designed to increase the overall volume-leaving diameter. Protrusion breasts should enhance the functions of aggregating and supporting without any increase or decrease of the breast volume. Drooping breasts require the ability to support a large volume to stabilize the breast. Subjects were selected depending on the ratio of breast silhouette as works of art and who have large breasts in disproportional to a slender trunk. Three items, the circumferential length of breast, height of the nipple, and the depth of inner breast using the anthropomorphic measurements of 182 subjects were measured through regression equations for breast volume. Breast volume = -394.86 + 27.52 ${\times}$ (the circumferential length of breast) + 18.73 ${\times}$ (height of the nipple) + 12.85 ${\times}$ (the depth of inner breast). Regression equations to extract the aesthetic breast volume in measurements irrelevant to breasts using the anthropomorphic measurements of 31 subjects were as follows. Aesthetic breast volume = -611.30 + 17.67 ${\times}$ (bust circumference) -24.29 ${\times}$ (under-bust circumference) + 16.31 ${\times}$ (neck point to breast point to waistline) + 22.83 ${\times}$ (bust breadth) + 12.22 ${\times}$ (waist depth) -8.34 ${\times}$ (interscye- front). This prediction equation is useful to develop a breast type brassiere pattern, complement breast enhancement surgery, or minimize the effect a mastectomy.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권4호
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• pp.93-101
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• 1998

Knit products which had been limited only to underwear, recently became popularized, fashionized and highly classified covering even outer garments such as sportswear like golfwear, woman's dress, and man' s suit. As fashion cycle is getting shorter and the more a nation advanced prefers knit to woven fabrics knit industry has a very bright prospect, particularly woman's knit which is sensitive to fashion can be said as a fashion product with high value added. This study is to grasp the physical properties of stitch which are fundamental to the development of knit products. For this purpose, 2/20s of 100% wool were woven by the author of this study to basic plain stitch, rib stitch, varied transfer stitch, and float stitch on a SEMASEIKI cross knitter 7G to test the physical properties, and the result was as follows; 1. As for the relation between knit stitch and rate of extension recovery, rate of extension recovery was higher in the course direction than in the wale direction of three stitches except transfer stitch; rib stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the course direction while float stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the wale direction. 2. As for the relation between knit stitch and bursting strength elastic rib stitch showed higher bursting strength to indicate elasticity is an important factor of bursting strength and float stitch showed higher bursting strength too to indicate that the floating yarn on the surface plays a role of support. 3. As for the relation between knit stitch and air permeability perforated transfer stitch showed the lowest air permeability to prove that the size of perforation affects on the air permeability a great deal. 4. As for the relation between knit stitch and warmth retaining rib stitch through two lined needle bar showed the highest degree. The reason the warmth of perforated transfer stitch didn't decrease much was because the perforation wasn't big enough and content of air increased from the unevenness of the perforated parts through stitch variation. Based upon this result, each stitch can be characteristically summarized as follows; plain stitch showed a stable condition of knit cloth in four kinds of physical property test. And rib stitch is proper to tighten the edge of sleeve or clothe making use of its excellent extension recovery and to make socks for the highest bursting strength and warmth retaining. In the case of transfer stitch, seasonable designs can be taken by controlling the size of loop. Considering the pleasantness, underwear should be made of stitches with good air permeability float stitch was revealed to have color and pattern effects and a great bursting strength. This study has limitations in the aspect that it dealed with a small part of various knit stitches and the items of physical property test were not enough. The author of this study hopes that further studies would make deeper understandings about knit stitch based on more varied stitches and physical property tests ultimately to contribute to the development of fashionable designs proper to maximize the usage, function and originality.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권4호
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• pp.139-146
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to analyze the efficiency and working conditions of the patternwork departments by surveying the apparel manufacturing companies sampled in Seoul for their organization, working enviornment and technology of their patternwork departments, and thereby, find the ways to promote the functions of the patternwork department. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. As a result of analyzing the working environment of patternwork departments, it was found that the problems counted by most of the pattern workers were lack of workforce, unhygienic or unpleasant workplaces. 2. As a consequence of analyzing the sample production in terms of tacking methods and times, They rarely tacked the white cotton. Such an omission of tacking procedure may serve to save time, but if a sewing error occurs, the working time would rather be longer due to the defects of pattern to be remedied. 3. As a result of reviewing the general patternwork conditions, it was found that the patterns were still worked out in two dimensions. On the other hand, more than 60% of the pattern workers were applying to their patternworks the styles which they had learned from their seniors. Few patterns are being developed in conformity to apparel trends or body shape changes. 4. As a consequence of examining the problems involving the production of patternsl, the problems involved primarily the patterns incised off no-dart pattern and body structure, and in light of items, involved mainly the trousers and in light of material, involved much the stretch or velvet. Moreover, it is deemed necessary to establish a special institute devoted to a systematic development of pattern technology. 5. Most of the CAD patternworks are used not for pattern designing but for grading and marking works, which suggests that pattern workers need to be educated on this new technology for more diverse and precise patternworks. 6. Lastly, as a result of examining the conditions of patternwork departments and their relevant works, most of the pattern workers were found to be subject to irregular and excessive workload, having little time to produce good patterns. This finding suggests that it is necessary to mandate the pattern workers to more involve the commodity planning.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2008

This study is largely aimed at presenting ways to improve the working clothes and help companies create more positive images by suggesting designs of the clothes, which take into accounts the corporate image, symbolism, function and aesthetic appreciation through introduction of companies' CIP. And, it is significant to propose working clothes development condition and process with introduction of companies' CIP(Corporate Identity Program : work that systematize and simplify visually images which companies or public bodies have) A way of this study was made up with working clothes design development process which a student planned. First of all, this study looked into Company D's Corporate Identity Program(CIP) to develop the design that corresponds with the characteristics of the company's favorite design, working environment and demands of the employees. And, then, the study conducted a survey of 30 employees and intensive interviews with heads of four teams including the Safety Team, the Working Clothes Management Team and the General Affairs Team to find out the requirements of the clothes and the characteristics of the company. Based on them, the concrete image that the company pursues and the direction of design were set up through image positioning. In the end, three different concept designs were presented through image-mapping and the concrete design of each item was developed. A total of seven items including upper and lower garments (a jacket and trousers) for the spring-summer seasons, upper and lower garments (a jumper and trousers) for the winter season, cold-protecting vest and winter clothes (a coat and trousers) were presented in accordance with the three concepts. One of the concept designs, which was selected through evaluation by employees of Company D, was produced as a sample and then the final design was chosen after a discussion attended by the head of each team and representatives of the employees. Based on the aforementioned design planning, one design was selected from each of the three concept designs for production. And each of these was requested to special production enterprise and manufactured. Following the result of study, by looking into a case of a practical joint design project between a university and a company, this study suggested ideas for business to improve working clothes through the academic-industrial cooperation and presented conditions and process of design development. And, this study also aims to examine the feasibility of academic-industrial cooperation based on the cases in which enterprises and universities staged joint projects to develop working clothes.