• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.108-127
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the principles of clothing design and the way of design approach in Lamanova. She caused a revolution in the art of dress and created the foundation for costume design theory. She Addressed Art in everyday life to self-taught dressmakers. The distinguishing feature of the design is simplicity and functionality. In an article "The Russian Style", Lamanova raised the question of the new Soviet costume and traditional costume. In "On Contemporary Costume" she classified the new forms of clothes into everyday and holiday attire, showed the principles of costume, and analyzed in detail the necessity of constructing a costume to suit the individual figure. In "On the Rationality of Costume", she found a basis theory for clothing design which is for whom, from what, and for what purpose. Lamanova's theory was made public in full in 1928 and was presented at the exhibition of Handmade Textiles and Embroidery in Women's Contemporary Costume. The main contents are the costume's purpose, it's material, the figure of its wearer, and its form. She argued that the new costume could be in line with the new life and her theory could be the creed of clothing designers. The principles of Lamanova's theory can still be applied today, not only in Russian traditional and contemporary costume, but in contemporary world fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.100-118
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to identify the characteristics and meaning of collaboration with artists who have been with Louis Vuitton, focusing on bags, which are representative products of the luxury Louis Vuitton brand, -The research method was literature research and case studies. The theoretical study was based on previous studies and literature examine the concept and type in collaboration and to examine the trend in fashion and art collaboration. The case study was conducted after 2000 by collecting collaborative works between Louis Vuitton and artists based on their homepage, fashion information, and collection sites. Five artists and six artists(Sam Falls, Urs Fischer, Nicholas Hlobo, Alex Israel, Tschabalala Self and Jonas Wood), including Stephen Sprouse, Richard Prince, Takashi Murakami, Kusama Yayoi, and Jeff Koons, were analyzed for the art collaboration cases and contents that were conducted mainly on bags. This study found the following collaboration characteristics: first, classic image innovation: fun and lightness; second, deviating from the boundaries of fashion bags: the art of life, and third, building high-end luxury brand differentiation: scarcity and the introduction of authorism. It is expected that the basic data will be presented in the study of art collaboration design of fashion bags as well as academic data on the differentiation of luxury brands and the artisticization of products in the future.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.182-198
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• 2014

The main purposes of this study is to evaluate clothing behaviors according to cosmetic surgery parts and to research how the clothing style preference is expressed depending on each clothing behavior group. This study focuses on women in their 20s and 30s living in Seoul and Gyeonggi area whom have cosmetic surgery experiences. From the women being evaluated, the following groups are divided and then surveyed with equal frequency and ratio: 'facial surgery', 'face contour surgery', 'breast surgery', and 'body figure revision'. When comparing the changes in clothing style preferences before and after the cosmetic surgery, they prefer silhouettes which show body shapes, diversity of color tones, and more overall exposing preferences. After investigating the preferred clothing styles based on cosmetic surgery parts, it is being analyzed that body exposure is more aggressively expressed upon after taking the surgery because the self satisfaction is increased according to the changes in their body shapes after the surgery. Lastly, after looking into the cosmetic surgery and the clothing preferences styles of each clothing behavior group, there seems to be more breast surgeries and body figure revisions for aggressive and extroverted characters: the sex-appeal and mood switching type. It is also being analyzed that facial surgeries are more common in the passive group: information collection, trend alignment, and beauty preference. Such results are also reflected in clothing preferences styles: the biggest change is shown in the aggressive and extroverted group, the sex-appeal types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.3
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• pp.459-474
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• 2023

Contemporary fashion criticism tends to rely solely on the established art criticism process without consideration of the distinctive characteristics of fashion. Thus, this study aims to reveal the unique roles and characteristics of fashion criticism by recognizing it as an independent field in contemporary art with its own social significance. This study will first apply traditional art criticism models to analyze and explore contemporary fashion criticism's empirical content before uncovering the uniqueness of contemporary fashion criticism by content analysis. Contemporary fashion criticism discusses not just physical objects but various topics and ideas, as well. Accordingly, the existing criticism model was modified in this study to fit contemporary fashion criticism and organized into five stages: description of historical fashion, form description, external evaluation, interpretation, and internal evaluation. Commerciality, the human body, coordination, the critic's individuality, trends, and fashion-related persons were identified as key factors of contemporary fashion criticism's uniqueness. In conclusion, rather than build a single contemporary fashion model, this study found it more effective to create individual fashion criticism models suitable for detailed fields, as these enable the discussion of multifaceted topics in the fashion field. This study is expected to serve a meaningful guide for the fashion discourses.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.17-24
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• 2003

Objet, which showed up with the art of 20C, is now an important element giving a creative idea to fashion designers in modern times. The purpose of the study is to review how the objet technique was paid attention and recreated in the fashion, through the analysis of works, and the formative features of each technique for fashion, in order to identify the connection of arts and fashion, and the position of fashion as art. The techniques using object appeared in the 20th century fashion are as follows: First, papier-colle, which is adding printed materials onto the surface, is such a technique that adds cut-feeling materials to impose a new texture, or arrange again the cloth-cuts to create a different clothing from the existing one, which went to the extension of materials in the fashion. Second, collage of daily materials expresses directly and emotionally through direct presentation of the objets. Especially, collage of patch-work is reproduced into a new fabric depending on the objet used, giving a standing over the form. Third, ready-made which presents the material meaning only of the objet expands the range of objets which could be used in the fashion by introducing the daily materials having a meaning itself as a fashion. Forth, an attempt to approach to the objets of popular image by designed techniques come out in modern fashion as a graffiti look or a typography look, making the clothing itself an objet to transmit a message directly to the masses. Introduction of various objets and development of expression technique brought out the diversification of materials, and enrichment and extension of expression sphere, which resultingly spreaded the freedom of expression and progressed into the art sphere, making a direct motif to solidify its standing as a formative art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.821-834
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to clarify the different types of cooperation between the textile industries and the artists at the beginning of the 20th century in relation to the social background which motivated the artists. Therefore, this study tries to analyse the interactions between the cooperation and the movement of social reform of the period and describe the various phase of artistic expression as a result of artists' view point of the society. The results are as follows; 1. There are two different standpoints toward the cooperation. The one conceives the different role of artists in relation to society and the other tries to enlarge the field of expression as an artistic challenge. 2. The different standpoint engenders significant diversity in its development, result and decline. 3. The raise of new artist group "designer" who reconciles the art and the industry as vocation diminishes the need of direct participations of artists. 4. The spirit of the time has changed and emphasised more the conceptual part of the art than the properties of matter. It provides less favorable condition for the cooperation. The cooperation between the art and the industry is a significant resource of the textile and clothing design. The interaction is not limited to visual effect but partakes in the solutions of the common artistic or social problems. problems.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.371-384
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• 2011

This study with 'trip' as a theme, aims to develop textile designs and fashion bags for travel which is widely applicable fitting traveler's T P O, applying Victor Vasarely's artwork. During the planning process of design, 'Whenever & Wherever's concept was set by analyzing fashion trend information in 2010-11 F/W proposed by Interfashion Planning and FCK; in addition, 'Bobos' were selected as research targets. It organized 4 images of 'Modern', 'Romantic', 'Classic' and 'Fantastic'. The motives are proposed textile design with '$Cross^2$', 'Falling Z', 'Cir-Classicism' and 'Skinny-holic' per each theme. The designs developed were printed out and into polyester canvas with a Polaris V6 DTP from dgen, Corp. Textile designs developed were applied for 'two-way' formed fashion bags for traveling with high practicality. Fashion bags for traveling consisted of big bags, tote bags, and hip sacks; a total of 12 works (4 sets per theme) were produced. This study sought practical plans for artworks by producing fashion goods through a DTP system. The results of this study can be used as guidelines for further studies and as a significant contribution to the creation of high values for exciting fashion products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.5 s.164
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• pp.777-787
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to consider various characteristics in the graffiti-look in the modem fashion by interpreting meanings and properties of graffiti, transferred from street art to a new main stream in art. The scope of this study is limited to works from the 1990s to the present, and the materials for the literatures and exploratory study are fashion-related portfolios and the domestic and foreign fashion magazines. The first characteristic is satire. The graffiti-look conveys directly or indirectly with phrase or symbol various messages of politics, social ideology, wealth and poverty, environmental pollution, anti-war, etc. Body is even more used for graffitiand designers express freely their identity or ideology through the formative style of graffiti. The second characteristic is pleasure. Fantastic expressions from a fairy-tale or fable in the graffiti-look give humor meaning freedom and sense of liberation in a sense of catharsis to the modem people's emotion. The graffiti-look uses graffiti works to introduce its original message of humanism, happiness, humor, etc. to clothing; as a result, the graffiti-look features pleasure. The third characteristic iscommercial application. Brand logo designed by graffiti style is decorated with clothing, accessory, or ornament. This may not only emphasize brand name through lingual function of graffiti, but also be used for a distinctive marketing strategy against other brands. Logo which is regarded motive or pattern of design leaves a image instead of a meaning and performs a design function stressing formative sense.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.133-151
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• 2007

The role of fabric now directly related with the expression of the beauty of clothing and it provides new and creative ideas. This study was aimed at reviewing basic data that can be used in systematic design development through fabric expression for today's fashion designers who must study unique, original fashion design development. For systematic development of design technique through fabric expression, fabric expression methods and characteristics, aesthetic characteristics and fabric design of 'art to wear' were reviewed and the results are as follows. First, the highly wrought fabric expression of art to wear was confirmed to be comprehending a message within itself. Second, aesthetic characteristics of fabric expression used in art to wear can be classified as decorativeness, extensity, 2-D pictorialness, handicraft, compounding and rearrangement, and 3-D characteristics. Third, the 6 aesthetic characteristics have unique design features and aesthetic categories. The understanding the fabric expression techniques through study on the classification of the fabric expression in 'art to wear' is expected to be extended to proposition of creative direction and inspiration of modern fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.409-424
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• 2008

This study intends to analyze T-shirt designs, particularly in connection with pop art. 444 pieces of T-shirts which conveyed the pop art spirits of well-known designers were selected for five years from 2001 to 2005, through fashion magazines(Collection: Dong-ah TV, Collezioni: Italy). The findings are as follows. As for formative characteristics of pop art in T-shirts, previous studies were analyzed to set classifications criteria such as popularization of images, eroticism, lettering and graffiti, assemblage. The design factor of the image popularization includes everyday images, cartoon, celebrities, and caricature. Everyday images ranked first followed by cartoon, caricature and celebrities. The design factor of eroticism ranges from the see-through look, partial exposure of human body, symbolization of underwear, and to printing of sexy images. The see-through look was ranked first, followed by partial exposure of human body, symbolization of underwear, and printing of sexy images. The design factor of lettering and graffiti encompasses letters, numbers, symbols and logos. Adoption of letters, numbers or symbols was ranked first, followed by brand logos and graffiti. The design factor of Assemblage is closely related to a three-dimensional effect. Varied expressions are possible: combination of two different textiles and fusion of textile and non-textile. Combination of two different textiles are higher than fusion of textile and non-textile.