• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.28
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• pp.19-30
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• 1996

This study investigate through the Balin-banchado in the Kookjangdogameuigue how the system of banchado ceremony exchanged during the middle late the Yi dynasty and in the period of introducing Wastern civilization The Balinbanchado is carry a coffin out of the house to the royal mausoleum. The characteristic in the general strucutre share banchado with rites of introduction rites of center and rites of finishing. Balin-banchado varies according to the objects and the times of a state funeral. In comparsion with Karaebanchado there are investigate the general structure cer-emonial arms and ceremonial costumes. The special feature of two banchado varies rites of center among rites of three. in the ceremonial arms aspect the characteristic of two ban-chado differ from the objects and the times. In the ceremonial costumes the peculiarity of two banchado can be divided into the guard costumes and the ceremonial arm costumes. The most formal attire of the guard costumes. were murning dress and yang-kwan-chobok and samo-danryeong In the ceremonial arm costumes the most outstanding was hongkun-hongeui baik-kun-baikeui in two banchado.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.17
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• pp.83-91
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• 1991

I observed the meaning and the symbolic charaeters about the color and style of clothes appearing at "GER GA JAP BOK GO" written by Kyu Soo Park. The black color of Hyun Eui as a ceremonial dress of man symbolizes Heaven and Virtue. The yellow color of Whang Sang as a ceremonial dress of man symbolizes the Earth and the Impartiality. The blue or black decoration line over white ground of Sim Eui as ordinary dress of man symbolizes also Filial Piety. In woman ordinary upper garment, So Eui, black texture edging with blue line implies the mutual symmetricity with her husband's. Besides, white color texture lining So Eui symbolical to a Devine Nature and Homage implies also the deep concealment of feminine body. The black ground color of child dress "Chi Po Eui" symbolizes Naivety, and the red silk color of it's decoration line, belt and tress ornaments implies the praise of the Virtue & Learning and also "Expel the Evil" of our traditional national characteristics. As described above the meaning and symbolic characters about the color and style of clothes appearing at "GER GA JAP BOK GO" has a very Chinese disposition, but it's author Kyu Soo Park modified somewhat to be in harmony with the real social situation of our Country during that latest stage of Yi Dynasty, because he was one of the prominent pragmatist at that time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.2
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• pp.144-161
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• 2013

Seok, shoes worn for rituals that originated in China, is worn as part of a formal dress in Korea. The Seok for men were worn with Myeonbok(冕服: kingly ceremonial costume) and Wonyugwanbok(遠遊冠服) and the Seok for Jeokui(翟衣: queenly ceremonial costume) and Jangsam(長衫). Myeonbok, Wonyugwanbok, Jeokui and Jangsam were ceremonial costumes of ancient times. This paper examines Seok, which has never been the focal point of a study, and focuses on the period of Joseon(1392~1897). It was possible to concretely identify its changes in each of the periods and genders by means of the literature and picture data. It turns out from this paper that a unique Korean style emerged in the days of Kings Yeongjo(英祖: 1694~1776) and Sunjo(純祖: 1790~1834). The Seok that were imported from China after the Goryeo period included a neck part, which was a departure from its original form. However, during this period, fences were added on the top of the shoes, and rings were added to thread laces in Seok from China. Women wore their Seok in this period with different ornaments in accordance with the different situations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.2 s.24
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• pp.37-55
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• 1987

Pasul (Herein after referred to Korean-styled Pasul) to cover up the secrets, which has originated from Bool-an original mode of clothes is to put around a belt with a kind of towel. With the development of culture, it has been handed down the parts of ornamental and symbolic functions, losted its particular and original one. In general, we cannot exactly show when the Pasul has been used as a ritual dress, but, dare to maintain in this thesis, which has been used in Koguryu era. This thesis is summarized as follows: 1. The Bool, which is the first dress of all has its origin in the prehistory, and gradually has developed to a ceremonial dress with the help of man's intelligence. 2. Korean-styled Pasul has continuously been handed down from generation to generation (to adding up, from Koguryu era to Yi dynasty). Today, the color of the Pasul is known as a pink one, but I, herein, would like to refer that king Kojong in Yi dynasty had on a yellow-colored Pasul. 3. With becoming to be a form of ceremonial dress, the Bool has become to be complicated in style. For example, in the Koguryu era, the style is in the form of 'U,' and in Koryu era, it is the echelon formation tinting a pink color and weaving a mountain and flare shaped designs, and its dimension, the upper is one ja (a ja means a unit of length, 0.33 M), the lower, two ja, its length three ja. The Bool of Yi dynasty tints a pink color, and weaves a seaweeds, rices, axes and shaped designs. The Pasul which King Kojong in Yi dynasty put in, was a yellow-colored one weaving dragons and fire shaped design. 4. The Pasul is a ceremonial dress used a ritual or court dress. The purposes of wearing it are to distinguish the upper from the lower classes, to make them abide by regulations, and to respect courtesy. Accordingly, the Pasul. as the dress for special occassions does make us review the old and learn the new. 5. The reason that Pasul has been handed down are: 1) richness and fecundity. 2) symbol mark to represent classicalism. 3) to symbolize the authority by putting on it, for it is necessary to distinguish the upper from the lower classes along with the class consciousness in society. 6. On the basis of the study, the Pasul transition is to be handed down the function of the ornament and symbol. after losted its original functions, with the development of culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.593-600
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• 1999

The wedding business in getting specialized and subdivided lately. Due to this current the importance and the necessity of the software for wedding business emerged. So far people who were preparing for their wedding have usually picked up their wedding dress from the pictures on the brochure at the wedding dress shop. But it costs the customers time and money and most of all they can not satisfy their customers with the completed wedding dress sometimes. Moreover customers pay a lot of money for the wedding dress just because they wear the wedding dress once in their whole life. This is unreasonable actually. To solve these problems to help the customers choose their wedding dress that they really like and to provide the wedding dress with good price we developed this software. The purpose of this research is to help people who will marry soon save their time and money in this busy world by showing the shape of the wedding dress before the dress is completed. They can see if the dress goes well with them before it is sewed by seeing the imaginary wedding dress on the computer screen. We are trying to maximize the customer's satisfaction with this research. It is the idea of this research to differentiate this new concept of wedding dress from other existing concepts by grafting this software on companies' accumulated experience in marketing and diffusing this software through the country.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.15
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• pp.47-54
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• 1990

Kyu-Soo Park wrote the book "Gur Ga Jap Bok Ko" (Proposition for Household Casuals) around A.D. 1865. He was a widely-learned man and a proponent of Korean self-consciou-seness like his fellow Pragmafist against then prevailing Chinese influence, which had already penetrated deeply into ordinary life style. According to this fact we can see not only the general dress-cystoms but the new customs of some high-birth People with evident self-consciouseness like him at that time. For example, they wore "Sim Eui" and "Bok Gun" as the dress of their ordinary life in spite of the general dress custom wearing the "Do Po" (Traditional Korean full-dress attire) and "Gat" (Traditional cylindrical Korean hat) as an ordinary or a ceremonial dress irrespective of rank at that time. Women wore an overcoat with "Chima" and "Jur. Go Ri" instead of the shortened "Jur, Go Ri" and buttock exagerating "Chima" largely popular at that time too. And also wore "So Eui" instead of "won Sam" or "Dang Eui" prevailing for the psychological resemblance of higher ranking group. Male yougnsters wore "Sa Gyu Sam" as an ordinary life dress and Girls wore "Chima and Jur Go Ri".

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.1-19
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• 2002

Kyung(景, 景衣), Which is Wedding ceremonial head dress, Veil. Ancient China. When dynasty is changing. wedding head dress form is different. Old china, Kyung(景) was sleeves attached dress form. But. after Dang(唐) and Song(宋) Dynasty changed square formed clothes, which is put on from head to the shoulder, and another is sleeves attached dress form. In Japan. after Edo Dynasty, Wedding veil, which was sleeves attached dress formed, head dress cloth. Mouei(帽衣). and Piuei(被衣). Ancient Korea have been face covered clothes. Myunuei(面衣). from Buyo(夫餘) to the south Silla(남국신라) Dynasty. Koryo(高麗) dynasty. likeness of the Song Dynasty square formed head wear, Mongsu(蒙首), and Kedu(蓋頭). When Chosen(朝鮮) Dynasty, Kyunguei(景衣), which was square formed 12 chuk size head wear of the blue colored veil. When King and Queen finished wedding ceremony in the another palace, Queen following the King, go to the palace. who put on the wedding veil, Kyungui(景衣), in the papanquin.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.395-406
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• 1996

This article aims, by analyzing structurally the codification of dress sign in Korean society, the signifying system of the codes and their message communicated, to make clear a signifying structure that would be codified through the relationship between abstract concepts and real condition of dress. I used the semiotic theory of Ferdinand de Saussure′s conception on structuralismly the codification, cultural semiology of Roland Barthes and Myung-Sook Han′s formula of dress structure as tools analyse may objective of wedding dress of folks in Choson Dynasty, which has been successive our traditional Korean wedding dress. My results of the study are : The procedure of wedding ceremony in Choson Dynasty was presented in texts like Juga-garye, Sarye-peonram and Kukjo-orye, its dress system has been more emphasized on language, and aspect of social system, than parole, one of individual realization. In addition, the meanings of marrage such as "Oneness of bride and bridegroom", "Mixture of two sexes", "Blessing of good luck", were included in the signified like the style, pattern and color of the wedding dress, and specially, pattern and color, the articulated morphemes, was emphasized, When we combinated terms of dress in Choson Dynasty with syntagmatic, regarding their list as paradigmatic, it will signify a wedding dress, and according to combinating ways, it amy be divided as sign of dresses of bride and bridgeroom by sex or king, gentry and common people by class. Wedding Dress in Choson Dynasty = [{ODx(U/Dxu/d)}+AC·H·FW].

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.77-81
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• 2006

From the viewpoint of color perspective, black has more obvious effects to impart images than dress itself This study aims to examine black dress through the fashion history to highlight the aesthetic value of black and to make better use of black in designing. Black in fashion, particularly in the guise of the little black dress, became an indispensable feature of cosmpolitan style after World War I. Designers harnessed the power of black, drawn irresistibly to its innate qualities of drama and strength of line. For the past five hundred years, aside from the use of black for mourning as well as for religious, academic, legal and ceremonial dress, black with a greater or lesser dominance has been a fashion constant. Since then black has been an important color in fashion. How to use black in formative designs should be studied continuously.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.541-550
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• 2003

This study is to research the costume of Korean envoys of the Chosun dynasty. The research results follow. The costume of three envoys including senior envoys and vice envoys is by, its different kinds, Gwandae, Jobok, Gongbok, and Pyongbok. According to the different purposes of occasions, these dresses were classified as the dress for ceremonies, the dress for banquets, and the dress for travel. For the ceremonial purpose, Gongbok and Jobok were mostly used. Gongbok was chosen when the envoys entered into the major cities or when they had ceremonies with the lord of the manor. The envoys wore Jobok for important ceremonies such as when receiving or presenting credentials or when entering into Chusima. For travel costume, Pyonbok of nobleman was used. The envoys wore Pyonbok during journey but they changed into Gongbok when they entered into the major cities such as Osaka or Kyoto in order to show their diplomatic etiquettes as representatives of the Chosun dynasty. And for the banquets, they wore Gongbok for official banquet and Pyongbok for private banquet. These findings of the different dress for different occasion indicate that there was a strict dress code according to the occasions and purposes.