• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.100-116
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• 2008

This study aims to analyze the characteristics of deconstruction-ism expressed in the fashion of Alexander McQueen. The method and contents of this study are as follows. The three large categories for analysis are indeterminacy, decentralization, and intertextuality. The indeterminacy of meaning is divided into unstructured and unorganized factors in fashion, while decentralization can be categorized into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, inter-textuality is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from a total of 616 designs from the website, www.firstview.com, which carries McQueen's collection from 2000 S/S through 2007 F/W. My analysis qualitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and the characteristics of design. The result of this study is as followed. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, McQueen has introduced retro fashion and ethnic factors of the third world, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has enjoyed using two fabrics of different texture in order to inflict a shock and contrast, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of McQueen's fashion design. McQueen has employed unstructured expression techniques, which dismantle harmony and balance, the basic rule of design, and has presented unorganized images free from basic forms of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. Third, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in McQueen's design. His trans-gender clothing dissolves the traditional division of men and women and adopts a mixed gender expression. Furthermore, he has even tried to express a fourth gender by connecting the human with machine or animal or by connecting the material with the non-material.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.371-377
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• 1992

The purposes of the study were 1) to extend the cognitive categorization theory in an attempt to explain the of garment category, fashionability, and wearer's body types on impression formation, and 2) to find out structures of wearer's impressional dimension and wearer's professional image. The research included a quasi-experiment and survey. The experimental design was a $2^{3}$full factorial design of 3 independent variables. The experimental materials developed for the study were a set of stimuli and a response scale. The stimuli consisted of 8 drawings made by 3 independent variables (garment category, fashion level, wearer's body type). Result were as follows: 1) Garment category, fashionability and wearer's body type had significant effects on impression of the 5 factors-evaluation, potency, appearance, sociability and good-bad, with exception of wearer's body type which was nonsignificant to the potency factor. 2) Garment category was most effective on the evaluation and the potency. However wearer's body type was most effect on the appearance factor and fashionability variable was most effective on the good-bad factor. It was conclued that the results supported the cognitive categorization theory on impression formation and a cognitive categorization hypothesis of clothes.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.823-833
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• 2006

The globalization phenomenon of the 21st century has acted as the catalyst to accept diversity, and a new cultural code, ethnic, has emerged in the modem society by the pursuit of diversity throughout the whole society and culture. Unlike preceding studies focusing on ethnic concepts and design development, this study attempted comparative analyses on ethnic trends shown in the collections of two designers, Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto, who have strong ethnic consciousness. It is considered the comparative analysis on the two designers' collections with ethic images will be a guide to indicate the fashion philosophy of the two designers in the category of Japan, and this will be useful as basic data for the establishment of the globalization identity which is needed in the future fashion industry. The study results are as follows. First, it was found that the ethnic code has been so widely accepted by the world designers in a very positive form to accept foreign cultures that the ethnic code is now showing an aspect of eclecticism. Second, designer Issey Miyake has been pursuing his own ethnic style based on his philosophy to liberate humans through continuous researches and efforts on clothes. Third, Yohji Yamamoto has been pursuing a Japanese ethnic style as a designer who has expressed the unique beauty of Japan from the characteristics of Japanese traditional clothes. Fourth, as a result of comparative analyses on collections, they both have pursued an ethnic style based on the unique national characteristics of Japan, but it was also found that their fashion philosophy has developed differently in the same category of ethnic trend.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.324-332
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• 2023

Consumers are addressing the issue of dimensional dissatisfaction by repairing clothes, experimenting with style changes, and looking for cost-effective solutions that result in better-fitting garments. This study investigated the repair status by type of clothing, analyzed the method and frequency of repair by type of clothing category and season, and analyzed consumer redesign activities. The findings revealed that upper garments, such as T-shirts, jumpers, jackets, dress shirts, and dresses, were frequently repaired. The common modifications to upper garments included(in order of frequency) shortening sleeve length, shortening overall length, reducing garment width, zipper repair, and adjusting sleeve width. Lower garments, such as pants, jeans, skirts, and training pants, followed in terms of repair frequency. The modifications to lower garments included(in order of frequency) shortening length, reducing width, adjusting waist width (both narrowing and widening), replacing elastic bands, zipper repair, and lengthening. Repairs were more frequently conducted in the order of autumn, winter, spring, and summer. Repair methods varied depending on the clothing type and alterations involved to the length and width of garments and the replacement or removal of old sections. Redesigning clothing as a recycling method was found to enhance the cost-effectiveness of the collection. The study further confirmed the sustainability aspect of redesigning and reusing clothing.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.43-54
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• 2006

In the history of fashion, the category of knitted items was traditionally associated with ordinary clothing products like undergarments and socks. However, in a mere century Chanel has changed that idea by bringing into fashion consciousness items such as sports sweaters, jerseys, and suits, and so it has been necessary to upgrade this notion. As the needs of the times and new inventions have an inseparable relationship, knit fashion was also born with a close relationship with the zeitgeist of the time - the feminine movement, the rise of sports fashion and the world war - adapting itself up to the present time through continuous changes. Most brands are elevating knit from a mere decoration into a collection piece in a large number of collections every year. The number of brands that cannot exist without knit is increasing, such as Sonia Rykiel, Missoni, and so on. This essay is written with the purpose to study the birth, growth and future potential of knit items. The first stage concentrates on the age of knit's appearance (1910s-1930s). Contingent upon the collection of further data, this essay will be continued through the second stage (the 1960s - 1970s) and the third stage (after the 1980s).

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권5호
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• pp.649-665
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• 2019

This study presents a conceptual framework for the growth process as a manager based on data gathered from the sales experiences and careers of fashion brand managers. The study participants were seven managers with over 15 years of sales experience in a women's clothing brand in Gwangju. Data were collected through in-depth interviews from January 2018 to September 2018 and analyzed using open coding, axis coding, and selective coding according to Strauss and Corbin's grounded theory method. The study results are as follows. First, this study found six categories and 17 sub-categories based on the shop manager's sales experiences and careers. Second, we found the central job category as well as categories with causality, interaction, moderating and outcome relationships. Third, we developed a paradigm model that links the main phenomena, causal conditions, contextual conditions, intervening conditions, action/interaction strategies, and consequence categories. Fourth, the process of growing as a fashion brand manager was described by an integrated story.

• 복식
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• 제66권4호
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• pp.128-145
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• 2016

Unlike the past, when fashion brands adopted unilateral communication with their consumers, the brands today have recognized the importance of bi-lateral communication. This has led to the companies producing fashion films as a means to elicit a consensus in opinion between the brands and the consumers. Such fashion films should be understood as films using fashion that transcends time, and also as a type of fashion media. This study, which is based upon the understanding that fashion films are a part of strategic marketing for enhancing the value of brands, used domestic and international literature in order to define fashion films, and establish a theoretical basis for these films. Corroborative study was also conducted for the purpose of practical categorization. This study aims to investigate the characteristics of fashion films, and to suggest a new approach to the study of fashion films. The study adopted the research methodology used in Dudley Andrew's film theory in order to create a theoretical frame that can be used to categorize fashion films. The theory is of significance because it is the basis for the category of motion picture fashion film and media technology fashion film. The study on the categorization and the characteristics of fashion films based upon 6 sub-categories shows a consistent trend of fashion films. From the results, it can be inferred that the films contribute, in part, to the enhancement of brand value. Fashion films have shown rapid growth with the mixture of other media, and with the introduction of cutting-edge technology. Fashion films can be used as new marketing methods for the fashion brands in this digital age.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.733-745
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• 2009

The contra-sexual phenomenon that is recently focused is one of the new factors, which is focused when explaining the life style of progressive woman's image and it is creating cultural category. Moreover, the contra sexual people that are rising as new consuming subjects are not simple primary consumers but their shopping culture and cultural tastes are giving effects to many people. Because of the tendency, marketer of consuming industry are making efforts to predict the changes of contra-sexual people's shopping habits and tastes. Therefore, it is necessary to grasp contra-sexual phenomenon and research the fashion design aiming at that in order to predict woman's fashion image in the future. Therefore, the study considered concept and characteristic of contra-sexual phenomenon and surveyed its example in the popular culture. And, the study analyzed the formative characteristic of contra-sexual fashion shown in the public cultures such as drama and movie. On the basis of the result, design was suggested by reflecting contra-sexual fashion characteristic under the concept of 'Urban Splendor'. From the results above, it was possible to grasp the concept and characteristic of contra-sexual phenomenon, which appeared as a trend and understand new woman's image and the fashion that has changed because of it. It is considered that the establishment of the foundation of contra-sexual phenomenon, which plays as an important variable in woman's fashion, fashion accessory, cosmetic and advertisement field but it is hard to clarify, by analyzing the work aiming at contra-sexual phenomenon will be helpful for predicting the change of woman's fashion in the future.

• 복식
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• 제57권10호
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• pp.87-98
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• 2007

The development of mass media in the $20^{th}$ century has resulted in the rapid growth of the fashion industry. Fashion magazines like are performing the function of spreading new styles in addition to simple provision of fashion trend information. Therefore, the present study tracked the trend of changes in the cover models of USA during the last 10 years $(1997{\sim}2006)$, and examined qualitative and quantitative changes in the contents of USA for the last 20 years. According to the results, $50{\sim}75%$ of cover models were super models during the period from 1997 to 2006, but the percentages of fashion models and celebrities became similar to each other in 2001, and from 2002 to 2006 celebrities occupied around $75{\sim}92%$ of cover models. When the contents of USA were analyzed by category, columns that showed strength in 1986 but decreased gradually until 2006 were style suggestions(p<.001), fashion shooting on the theme of TPO and items(p<.05). Fashion columns that showed weakness in 1986 but increased through the 1990s and until 2006 were celebrity style(p<.05), item introductions(p<.001), shopping information(p<.001), designer interviews(p<.05) and fashion shooting on the theme of mood and celebrity(p<.05). These results suggested that the function of USA as a fashion magazine was mainly the provision of information on how to wear the new styles in 1986, but nowadays the contents have changed to information on what to buy. In addition, the results show that contents using highly popular celebrity increased rapidly in the 2000s.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.32-45
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• 2016

Outdoor wear, which is typically worn for outdoor activities, has become a style that is worn on a daily basis, much like ordinary clothes, through recent megatrends. There are new approaches to outdoor wear with high-fashion brands and designers recently taking part in the trend. This indicates that outdoor wear has already reached high-fashion, no longer making it just a megatrend or daily fashion. Therefore this study aims to find new features of outdoor looks and designs, through the latest women's ready-to-wear collections from 2014 to 2015. The study will focus on mega collections, which have shown many new approaches, and searches to change and development the present day outdoor look design, by using the word 'outdoor look' which is explained as a 'style' in a broad sense, and using it a general term of 'clothes'. High fashion brands have pursued changing their styles by mixing their designs with outdoor wear's variety, functionality and details; attempting new approaches and challenges. Due to these updated changes, the outdoor look is thriving and becoming part of high fashion. Looking forward to future new approaches and the development of the outdoor look will help catapult this type of 'style' into a new category of modern fashion.