• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.821-829
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• 2019

This study investigated the location of grading lines and grading amount for a jacket item by the target age groups (20-30, 30-40, and 40-50) for 17 women's wear brands. This study then utilized 7th SizeKorea data to analyze the increase rate of body size and to suggest the grading deviation distribution ratio of the jackets using regression analysis. The increase in neck girth of the jackets targeting aged 30-40s did not reflect the human body change rate. The shoulder length increased by 4.6%-8.1% with the bust girth increase; however, the brands produced longer shoulder length reflecting 20-35% of the bust girth increase. The armhole girth was 54.9% - 59.7% of bust circumstance increase rate. However, the 20-30 target age group brands distributed 80% of bust girth to armhole girth and the 30-40 and the 40-50 target age group brands distributed 50% of the bust girth to armhole. In particular, the 20-30 target age group brands were found to produce a large margin around the armhole. When it came to length items, the brands targeting 20-30s and the 40-50s reflected deviation distribution rate of length from underarm to waist and length from waist to hip in comparison with the overall jacket length deviation. The 30-40 target age group brands, 8 out of 20 brands distributed the jacket length deviation in the length from the back of neck to the underarm; consequently, only 22% percent should be distributed in this part.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권3호
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• pp.23-31
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• 2007

This study was conducted to reproduce the four-piece bodice pattern of a ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women in their twenties with a standard body type and average size. Eighteen four-piece bodice patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The front width of the bodice was wider than the back width. The front bust line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back bust line, the side back bust line and the under-arm gore bust line. The front waist line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back waist line, the side back waist line and the under-arm gore waist line. The angles of the two waist darts of the bodice were very big but the legs of the dart were too short. The center front line of the bodice was oblique and curved. The angle of the back shoulder line of the bodice was bigger than the angle of front shoulder line. The shoulder seam line of the bodice was not placed on the top of the shoulder but behind the shoulder. The pattern characteristics of the bodice created a woman's silhouette that emphasized the volume of the bust, a chicken breast and a slim waist. The study pattern which had the characteristics of the four-piece bodice of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women in their twenties who have a standard body type and an average size through modifications based on the evaluation of two dressing occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the 1890's and to fit Korean women.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.196-202
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• 2006

In this study the swimwear pattern focused on a typical middle-aged women's body was developed and discussed. To determine the characteristics of a typical middle-aged women's body, their actual bust were cast. According to a generated flattened body surface shell, the right side of pattern was designed considering stretching ratio of swimwear materials as shown in the figure 3. Special features of the developed swimwear pattern are a bust dart, a particularly designed lining, a power-net, and a brassiere-cup. Against a commercial swimwear pattern, the darts were applied to bust area considering its volume. The lining was attached on the entire right side except brassiere part, and power-net was added twice on belly and hip part. As a result, silhouette and body shape were improved. The new brassiere-cup was designed and made to satisfy the middle-aged women's demand about their bust volume. Swimwear fitting test was performed, and it was evaluated. The developed swimwear rated activity, body support, entire silhouette, pressure, comfortable fitting, suitability with body figure, nudity higher by comparison with a commercial swimwear, as shown in the Table 6. Specially the developed swimwear satisfied future customers about a bust, a hip, a waist, a belly area, which the middle-aged women are not confident. Reducing exposure of an armhole and upper leg area, it also satisfied them. New developed swimwear pattern will provide useful reference to swimwear businesses targeting middle-aged women.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.117-128
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• 1990

The purpose of this study is to find fitness of brassiere by means of body measuring value, its variation volume, the evaluation of perceptive image, and the evaluation of the sense of wearing. The results were as follows; 1) According to comparison for body measuring value before and after wearing brassiere, bust point (B.P.) height, lower bust height, upper chest circumference, chest circumference, and bust depth are increased, and lower chest circumference, bust point breadth, shoulder middle point - B.P., B.P. -under bust, and cup horizontal girth are decreased. 2) The difference of variation volume by material is not accepted. The part above $20\%$ at variation rate is under the region of the armpit, that is, the region connected arm from the back. 3) The subjects replied that they wore the brassiere in order to compensate the breast and needed to wear it regardless of thiness and obesity. They wore the brassiere in order to dress themselves in good shape, and felt that it put pressure upon the body, while it had nothing to do with adjusting bodily temperature and gave the sense of security. 4) The estimate of the sense of wearing by material is recognized as the difference of the attention at attentive level $1\%$. The multiple factor analysis of each item in the sense of wearing showed that the items which are explained over $90\%$ by common factors are '1. Unpreasant in touch', '2. The part of edge is haggard', '15. Not to be fit'.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.203-215
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to investigate current garment sizes of women's formal jackets, targeting plus-size women in online shopping malls, and to identify effective size information involved in online apparel purchase behaviors to overcome the short comings of current garment sizes from the perspectives of consumers. Basic 88 size formal jackets from the seven companies found on the 22 websites were collected and analyzed. The data were collected from March to October 2007, and analyzed using SPSS 14.0. The results were summarized as follows. First, there was no website using standard garment size labeling with 'bust-hip-height' set up by KS K 0051 among the 22 websites. Instead, all 22 websites used garment size labeling with figures such as 88, 99, 100, 110, and 120 or with letters such as L, XL, and XXL. The websites presented no body size, but listed garment size. Furthermore, the size information was presented differently, ranging from three items of bust circumference, upper arm length, and jacket length to six items of shoulder width, bust circumference, waist circumference, sleeve width, sleeve length, and jacket length. In addition, no website presented basic information for hip circumference, despite the jacket length covering the hips. Second, a total of 85.7% the websites listed bust circumferences in 88 garment sizes collected as 100cm. Shoulder widths were presented as 39cm or 37cm. Sleeve circumferences were addressed the same, 36cm, in all websites. Third, comparing the differences between guidance sizes and measurement sizes, only 28.5% of the web sites posted guidance sizes of shoulder widths the same as those of the measurement sizes. All web sites presented guidance sizes of bust circumstances as 1 to 5cm smaller than those of the measurement sizes.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.99-106
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• 2006

With the growing interest in pet dogs and pet dog's wear I used this study to compare and analyze the pattern used by each supplier and developed a new pattern for pet dogs' wear which is appropriate for pet dogs' body lines and movement. Test subjects were 91 pet dogs in Busan and after comparing 3 patterns from different suppliers, I developed the pattern reflecting pet dogs' body shapes and movement. Results are as follows; 1) As a result of analyzing measurements, it was found that pet dogs motion in walking on four feet, is different from that of people on two feet. For center measurements, their waist to bust length is longer than their waist to back length. The result of analysis shows that bust circumference impacts most other measurement results and it seems that better results are achieved if the bust line is taken into consideration when measuring bust back length, bust front length, neck base circumference, front leg arc, the length between lateral shoulder etc. 2) As a result of comparing suppliers' patterns, it was discovered that each supplier has different sizes for the same patterns and those sizes are not standardized across the board. Even if the same size of pattern was actually used in the production of pet dogs' wear by the individual companies, there were many variations in size for each item. 3) To develop a more standard pattern of pet dogs' wear, I collected and analyzed 3 patterns from each supplier and designed a new pattern, revising it three times. After test-wearing of the experimental pattern and the studied patterns, and comparing and analyzing the results, the studied pattern had similarly better estimation than the experimental one.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.713-721
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• 2018

This study aimed to develop a draping manual for the basic bodice to be available in colleges and industries. For this, draping methods mentioned in six different textbooks were comparatively analyzed. As for the research method, draping methods were compared by using training textbook, and basic bodices designed with muslin were assessed using the 5-point Likert scale. First, the draping methods of basic bodices were comparatively analyzed. The main baselines were set as the center front line, the center back line, the bust line, and the shoulder blade line. The position of dart was suggested based on the princess line, in both the front and the back. The value of dart was classified as a fixed size with any associated excess. The length of dart was set based on the bust point and shoulder blade point or a fixed size. The amount of ease was randomly set based on the fixed size, bust circumference, waist circumference, interscye length, armholes and shoulder lines, or the worker's intuition. Second, according to the appearance evaluation of the patterns, the following patterns obtained the highest scores: A pattern 2.5cm away from the B.P point of the waist dart and shoulder dart in the frontal appearance, a pattern of 0.6~0.7cm ease for the front armhole, a pattern with an ease of 1.2cm in the bust and 0.6cm in the waist. As for back appearance, the pattern in which the point of waist dart is 2~3cm from the bust line received the highest score.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.1193-1202
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• 1996

This study investigates and analyzes the amount and shape of the front waist dart of the bodice and investigates the dart division method by bust size. Measurements at 5 arm positions were taken from 15 subjects. Clothing tests were given to 6 of the subjects. The conclusions were as follows: 1) Front Body surface changes were occurred around armpit and they were caused by the wrinkles of the armpit 2) The curved dart line was more appropriate for use with C cup, the large bust body, than the linear line. The changes of the dart amount at arm movements had different types by bust size. 3) Patterns for A & C cup body were adequate to divide the dart amount by 3 darts such as under the B.P., under the anterior armpit and side line, or to aggregate to 1 dart under the B.P. For the B cup body, however, the suitable pattern to use was the total dart amount divided by 1~2 darts and decreasing the waist line at the side line should be avoided.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.1-11
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• 1986

The subject, in the blouses that sleeve caps and sleeve lengthes are different from, did sensory test by right arm movement and both arms movement. This sensory test which is used in fabric good, is Shef's. RESULTS : 1) The ease of bust size is very significant by cap height, at 5%, 1% level by sleeve length. 2) The front area of arm hole is affected by cap height, sleeve length movements more than the back and the under area of arm hole are 3) Sleeve width is affected by cap height, sleeve length both arms movement. That is, they should be designed according to the use because they affect the ease of blouse very much. Especially bust size should be considered with sleeve pattern because the ease bust becomes different with sleeve pattern.

• 산업공학
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.147-151
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• 2002

Presented in this paper is a prototype of dedicated CAM system for a human bust, not a relief, machining. The input of this system is a STL file which comes from measuring machine, and the output is machining data for a 3-axis CNC milling machine with an index table. The system consists of three main modules, which are shape import and transformation, modeling of jig and fixture, and calculation of machining area. Proposed system architecture and the main modules are briefly described. To get machining region for semi-finish and finish machining stages, two concepts of machining area, machinable and scannable, were tried. Machinable area was suitable for the purpose.