• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.333-341
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• 2008

A remote sensing technique to identify trajectories of breaking waves in the surf zone using oblique digital nearshore videos is proposed. The noise arising from white foam induced by wave breaking has hindered accurate remote sensing of wave properties in the surf zone. For this reason, this paper focuses on image processing to remove the noise and wave trajectory identification essential for wave property estimation. The nearshore video imagery sampled at 3 Hz are used, covering length scale(100 m). Original image sequences are processed through image frame differencing and directional low-pass image filtering to remove the noise characterized by high frequencies in the video imagery. The extraction of individual wave crest features is conducted using a Radon transform-based line detection algorithm in the processed cross-shore image timestacks having a two-dimensional space-time domain. The number of valid wave crest trajectories identified corresponds to about 2/3 of waves recorded by the in-situ sensors.

• Water for future
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.73-83
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• 1994

The unproper development of the nearshore zone can enhance the diffusion of pollutant in the nearshore zone resulting in unbalanced sediment budget of beach which causes alteration of beach topography. Therefore, it is required to predict the effects of the envirnmental change quantitatively. In this paper, the depth-averaged and time-averaged energy balance equation is selected to acount for the wave transformation such as refraction, shoaling effect, the surf zone energy disipation, wave breaking index and bore, due to wave breaking in the shore region.(Numerical solutions are obtained by a finite difference method, ADI and Upwind. For the calculation of the wave-induced current, the unsteady nonlinear depth-averaged and time-averaged governing equation is derived based on the continuity and momentum equation for imcompressible fluid.) Numerical solutions are obtained by finite difference method considering influences of factors such as lateral mixing coefficient, bed shear stress, wave direction angle, wave steepness, wave period and bottom slope. The model is applied to the computation of wave transformation, wave-induced current and variation of mean water leel on a uniformly sloping beach.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.171-181
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• 2002

Among various numerical methods of wave transformations including wave breaking by structure, models using VOF(Volume Of Fluid) method to trace free surface are getting into the spotlight recently. In order to analyze wave transformations and velocity of the wave fields due to the permeable submerged breakwater(PSB), This study applied VOF method to the two-dimensional wave channel installed line-source to generate waves and added dissipation zone to offer a non-reflective boundary. Hydraulic experiments was performed to obtain the application of two-dimensional numerical wave channel. The results of numerical experiments using the two-dimensional wave channel agree well with the experimental data. It was shown that vortices are formed behind the PSB, and in case of the 2-rowed PSB they also are occurred in between PSBs, strongly non-linear waves are developed on the crown of the PSB, and the direction of velocities in porous media is determined by the shape of free surface.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.149-155
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• 1999

A treatment of wave breaking is included in the extended Boussinesq equations of Nwogu. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the computa¬tional domain. The model uses fourth-order Adams predictor-corrector method to advance in time, and discretizes first-order spatial derivatives to fourth-order accuracy, and thus reducing all truncation errors to a level smaller than the dispersive terms. The generated wave fields are found to be good and the corresponding wave heights are very close to their target values. For the tests of wave breaking, although agreement is considered to be reasonable, wave heights in the inner surf zone are over-predicted. This indicates the breaking parameters in the model should be adjusted.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.55-59
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• 2005

The present data concerns the wave height distribution around the Ieodo underwater rocks and it was obtained from a 3D hydraulic model experiment which was performed in 1999 by Konkuk University and Korea Ocean Research and Development Institute. The experiment was separately undertaken for 4 different wave directions (NNW, SE, S, NNW) under which wave heights were measured at every 1m interval within the preset grid area, 16m×18m. It was observed that the wave breaking occurred on the top of the Ieodo model for all wave directions. This data may be effectively used for improving or verifying the performance of numerical wave propagation models in the area with the local breaking wave zones.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.619-633
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• 1994

A wave deformation model for general purpose combined refraction, diffraction, and breaking is developed in the shallow water. A parabolic approximation equation considered a higher order diffraction term is derived from the previous mild slope equation. A wave energy dissipation term due to bottom friction and breaking is introduced from the turbulence model. The Crank-Nicoloson implicit scheme is used in the numerical calculation, then the solutions are compared with the various hydraulic experiment data in the circular, the elliptic shoal, and the surf zone. The wave height decay in the surf zone is sensitively affected by the incident wave steepness, and the wave height variation around the elliptic shoal is well explained by the non-linear dispersion relation and the wave energy dissipation term. The model is also applied to a field coastal area and reasonable results are obtained.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.296-308
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• 2001

A fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation of Wei et al. is finite differenced by Adams predictor-corrector method. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the domain and wale breaking mechanism is included in the equation. The generated waves are found to be good and the corresponding wale heights are very close to the target values. The shoaling of solitary wave and transformation of regular wave over submerged shelf were simulated successfully. The characteristics of breaking mechanism was identified through the numerical experiment and the results of two dimensional wave propagation test over the spherical shoal showed the importance of nonlinear wave model.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.357-368
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• 1993

With the assumption of the diffusion dominated flow, a numerical model has been developed for undertow and turbulence structure under the breaking wave by using the $textsc{k}$-$\varepsilon$ turbulence model. Undertow is a strong mean current which moves seqwards below the level of wave trough in the surf zone. The turbulence, generated by wave breaking in the roller, spreads and dissipates downwards. The governing equations are composed of the equation of motion with the period-averaged shear stress due to waves; $textsc{k}$- and $\varepsilon$-equations with the turbulence energy Production due to wave breaking. They are discretised by the three-level fully implicit scheme, which can be solved by using Thomas algorithm. The model gives good agreements with measurements except for the station that is closest to the breaking point.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.565-573
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• 2007

The effect of wave and current interactions on irregular wave transformation over a submerged elliptic shoal is investigated based on numerical simulations of the Vincent and Briggs experiment [Vincent, C.L., Briggs, M.J., 1989. Refraction-diffraction of irregular waves over a mound. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 115(2), pp. 269-284]. The numerical simulations are conducted by a combination of REF/DIF S(a wave model) and SHORECIRC(a current model) and a time dependent phase-resolving wavecurrent model, FUNWAVE. In the simulations, the breaking-induced currents defocus waves behind the shoal and bring on a wave shadow zone that shows relatively low wave height distributions. The computed results of the combined model system agree better with the measurements than the computed results obtained by neglecting wave-current interaction do. In addition, the results of FUNWAVE show a good agreement with the measurements. The agreement indicates that it is necessary to take into account the effect of breaking-induced current on wave refraction when wave-breaking occurs over a submerged shoal.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.163-169
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• 1991

Sixty seven regular wave tests were performed in a wave-current flume to investigate proper-ties of waves breaking on irregular slope profiles. In these tests, 1/10, 1/20 beach slopes were made using angles and plywoods. A little differences were found in such properties as breaker depth and height indices. runup for plane slopes comparing with other laboratory experiments. however. for smaller deepwater wave steepness, measured breaker height and depth data values were smaller than other formulas. On wave runup agreement was good between experiments and Hunt formula. however. measured data values were influenced by number of breaking. Significant differences were found in breaker depth index for plane and barred slopes. Wave height decay after breaking was found to be smaller than Dally et al.'s formula (1984).