• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.93-104
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• 2004

The research subjects of this study were 30 unmarried Korean women from 20 to 29 who had never had an operation on their breast. Measurement method using plaster breast mold was used for measuring their volume of breast. The correlation between their breast volume and the methods to set up brassiere cups with the existing method and with their circumference of breast was analyzed using KendalI's Coefficient. which was to figure out a method which had a bigger correlation with the volume of breast between the method to set up brassiere cups using the existing method and the method using the circumference of breast. The results analyzed showed that the coefficient of correlation between the existing method and the volume of breast was .12 and the significance level was .45. They didn't have any correlation. On the other hand. the coefficient of correlation between the circumference of breast and the volume of breast was .82. which was very high values and the significance level was very high .0001. Therefore. it turned out that it was difficult to set up brassiere cups by using the existing method and it was easier and more reliable to set up the cups by using the circumference of breast.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.719-730
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to develop the basic patterns of adult womens brassiere therewith, provide for some basic data useful to the brassiere manufacturing which are both functional and fitting. For this purpose, 220 adults women(aged between 20 and 59) were sampled to be measured for their body sizes and tested for their brassiere wearing. The collected data were statistically processed using the SAS 6.12 for Means, Standard Deviation, etc. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. In order to develop the basic patterns of adult womens brassieres, 75A size was selected out of 12 size combination(3 women per 75A size) and then, their brassiere fitting was tested. As a result, the fronts of the basic patterns were found to have such problems as undone front center, poor levelling of upper cups bottom line or lower cups top line, poor shape of upper cups outside top line and shoulder strip position. On the other hand, n the rear side of the basic patterns, the central part of the wing was slightly lifted, while the wing width and straps interval did not befit the full-cup brassiere. The result of this first brassiere fitting test showed that the functionality and aesthetics of the basic pattern brassieres were more or less satisfactory, and thus, the problems were address for the second test. In the second test, the aesthetics, breast-shaping effect and functionality of the basic pattern brassieres were much improved. 2. The basic patterns of adult womens brassieres were characterized by a round cup wired as well as a full cup embracing the entire breasts. Each basic pattern which consisted of upper and lower cups was shaped \"straight(-)\". The basic sizes adopted at the first design stage (see fig. 1-2) was 75A of which was designed as upper foundation basic pattern. At the second stage, the upper body foundation pattern were used to design lower cup, upper cup, front panel and wing in their order.(see fig. 3-5, fig. 8)5, fig. 8)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.9_10 s.157
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• pp.1378-1388
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• 2006

We conducted a questionnaire survey of 481 Korean female college students and measured anthropometrically 2 girth of their bodies(bust, under bust girth) in order to understand the psychological needs about brassiere and the physical characteristics of consumers aged between 19 and 25(the 1924 generation). There were two major problems to be solved to improve the fit of brassiere in aspect of size. First, most brands for this age group aimed at product differentiation mainly on visual design not on brassiere size. According to the body measurements, the distribution of brassiere size had 6 sections '70AA, 70A, 70B, 75AA, 75A and 75B cups' showing a rate of 63.8% but most brands for this age group were producing '75A, 80A, 85A, 75B, 80B and 85B cups' showing a rate of 24.7%. Second, most subjects of this survey didn't know their own breast size and the sizing system of brassiere which are necessary in order to select the proper brassiere size. And most subjects were wearing a bigger size brassiere than their own body size even though one was in the range of '75A, 80A, 85A, 75B, 80B and 85B'. It might be possible that the dimensions of brassiere products in the market and the sizes indicated on the labels do not correspond. For increasing the consumer satisfaction it is necessary to adjust the production rate of brassiere sizes and to develop ergonomic brassiere products with proper dimensions and shapes for each brassiere size.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.429-439
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• 2015

This study develops a new brassiere for new silver women. A new brassiere design was developed for the silver generation based on apreliminary survey; subsequently, a wire and no-wire type of brassier were developed after a second fitting evaluation. The results were as follows. First, in terms of brassiere design, the cup shape was designed as mold type full cup, shoulder straps were designed as camisole type with cups, bias tape was designed for body correction in the side line and mash tape was designed for easy movement below the cups. On the other side ofthe cup shape was a pocketdesigned on a support pad forthe wire type and a support panel to serve as a wire in the no-wire type brassiere. Second, brassiere patterns were designed by referencing the educational H pattern. Thetotal length was elongated by 5cmto reduce pressure when wearing a brassiere and the height of the front center increased by 8cm for the stability of the front center of the brassiere. In addition, the side line was moved back by 3cm and the width of the brassiere wings was designed widely at 10.5cm. Third, a wearing test was conducted for the wire type and the no-wire type brassiere with comparison products, using a 7-point Likert scale. Appearance results and movement tests for the wire and no-wire type showed a higher score than comparison products.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.285-295
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• 2015

To identify optimized thermal properties of mold brassiere cup for improved thermal comfort during summer, we compared the thermal resistance and the water vapor permeability of Polyurethane (PU) foam, 3D spacer fabric and the two combined materials of the PU foam and the 3D spacer fabric. Four experimental mold brassieres were made of the materials for wearing test. Six women in their twenties evaluated the wearing sensation in the hot and humid environment. The changes in microclimate temperature and humidity while wearing test brassiere cups were measured. Results indicate that thermal resistance increased as more PU foam were combined, while the water vapor permeability was higher as the content of the 3D spacer fabric increased at thickness of 18mm and over. However, in the wear test, the PU foam brassiere was the most preferred in all ambient conditions due to its soft, flexible and smooth texture, despite its high thermal resistance and low water vapor permeability. This indicates that the textures of mold foams are more dominant properties than thermal properties for mold foams in determining the wear comfort of mold brassieres.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.122-130
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to develop the appropriate brassiere pattern for women. Total of 6 brands with same design and 75A, 80A size brassieres(total 12 brassieres) were compared and analyzed for pattern, cup size and patterns. SPSS 10.1 statistic process was used for data analysis. The outcom of this study is summarized as follows. Total length of brassiere by grade were performed smaller than the standard difference 5cm. For 1/2 front cover length, There were no significant differences between 75 and 80. The reason for lower line of wing is shorter than upper line of wing is because side support is cut side ways considering lower line of wing is sewn more toward front than upper line of wing. Even it is same A cup size most cup related sizes become larger according to underbust comparing with cup capacity, they range from 146.67cc to 172.83cc for same A cups. Among same A cups with difference underbust there was average of 26.16cc differences. For relations of material, sewing technology and expansion rate, all 6 brands had zigzag type sewing for upper line tape. For every 0.3cm height, there were $17{\sim}21$ stitches. When urethane mixture is similar expansion rate is higher while number of 1 inch zigzag are high. For elasticity, zigzag stitch expand side ways for more expansion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.988-995
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• 2015

Gaps between the upper edges of brassiere mold cups and the breasts are one of the most serious issues in realizing comfort wearing of commercial brassieres for small-breasted women. The surplus ease amounts causing the fit problem were measured from 3D wearing images of the small-breasted women's brassieres. The effect after the removing the surplus ease amounts from the upper edge of mold cup was approved by subjective wearing evaluation. Since the volume distribution of mold cup can also affect the wearing sensation of brassiere, the subjective wearing sensation was compared for two brassieres of different volume distributions, V_L, of which volume was concentrated at the lower cup, and V_C, which has the thickest part at the nipple. As the results, the suitable sensation for cup volume and the natural wearing silhouette could be accomplished by removing the surplus ease amounts from the upper edge of mold cup to reduce the gaps between brassieres and the breasts, which could be accomplished through an approach reducing the volume near the upper edge of mold brassiere cup and making the volume concentrated at the lower cup. These works provide a useful information on the design of the brassiere mold cups for small-breasted women. Moreover, modeling methods of 3D scan data and 3D printing technique for making more accurate mold cases used in this research can be helpful to develop and evaluate clothing products in future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.648-654
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to develops of brassiere pattern for middle school students (15 ages ${\mp}$ 3). In order to design a brassiere pattern, the body surface shell was used as the basic pattern. The foundation pattern and the four-piece brassiere pattern with wire were designed and sewed. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The foundation pattern of the size 75A was proved proper for the body by the wearing tests. Each angle and length of the parts on the base line of the breasts played an important role on setting the pattern. 2. As based on the body surface shell extracted from a plaster mold, the cups of brassiere pattern were applied to the body surface shell, and full side stretch -wings were applied to 8% reduced body size. 3. As the result of the wearing test, the excellence of the experimental brassiere was recognized objectively, with high marks in all the items of clothing compensation, body motion, clothing pressure and breasts growth. The experimental brassiere was covering the whole breasts to cope with change according to breasts growth, It was designed to support the breasts firmly, not to press the middle part of them. Simultaneously, this has the advantages that satisfy a characteristic of a figure and the purpose of putting it on.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.467-473
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• 2005

The integrative Internet program was developed for the selection of optimal brassiere components according to the breast types of middle-aged women. In this program, a customer is classified into a certain group through three steps of a discriminant analysis. Three variables used in the analysis include breast volume, radii of curvature of under-breast curve, and a distance between inner breast points. Using individual data of three variables, the optimal brassiere components, i.e. brassiere cup size, curvature of front panel and wire, distance between cups, are suggested for each customer. Discrimination of breast types using only 2D measurements is also included for those who do not have easy access to a 3D measurement device.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.5 s.164
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• pp.729-741
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• 2007

In order to examine the characteristics of brassiere products for the 1924 generation brands on the market and grasp problems, we selected three 'comparative brassieres', each one from among the 1924 underwear brands with the highest recognition and sales profit, and then designed a 'sample brassiere' pattern(75A) with a similar shape to the comparative brassieres. We set up the "New Cup Grading Rule" with a view of reflecting the wearing effect that was varied according to cup sizes, graded the sizes of 75AA and 75B with this method, and made the sample brassieres in three sizes. We conducted the wearing evaluation and body measurements of 9 subjects after analyzing the patterns and characteristics of the sample brassieres and three comparative brassieres. As a result of the wearing evaluation, the sample and comparative brassiere 2, the dimensions and shapes were appropriate for the 1924 generation consumers and expressed an overall natural silhouette, showed satisfactory results in the entire evaluation questions. On the other hand, the comparative brassiere 1 and 3 that tended toward making a big change in the physical characteristics got unsatisfactory evaluations in the dimensions of the cups, clothing pressure, and bust silhouette. As a result of observing the variation in body dimensions by body measurements when nude and when wearing each brassiere and then summing it up with the score of the wearing evaluation, it was proven that too much change in body shape can create a negative image by upsetting the balance of the whole silhouette. Therefore, it is desirable to develop brassiere products with proper dimensions and clothing pressure that can make a physical change that harmonizes the overall bust silhouette and the position and shape of the breasts.