• 한국생활과학회지
• /
• 제14권3호
• /
• pp.467-473
• /
• 2005

The integrative Internet program was developed for the selection of optimal brassiere components according to the breast types of middle-aged women. In this program, a customer is classified into a certain group through three steps of a discriminant analysis. Three variables used in the analysis include breast volume, radii of curvature of under-breast curve, and a distance between inner breast points. Using individual data of three variables, the optimal brassiere components, i.e. brassiere cup size, curvature of front panel and wire, distance between cups, are suggested for each customer. Discrimination of breast types using only 2D measurements is also included for those who do not have easy access to a 3D measurement device.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제27권11호
• /
• pp.1291-1299
• /
• 2003

In order to design the better brassiere in terms of appearance and functions, various parameters of the materials should be considered; in this study, fatigue properties and subjective sensation of wing materials and its relation to the preference for a brassiere was investigated. After the survey of commercially available products, five elastic fabrics such as cotton, Modal, polyester, nylon, and Tactel, all of which contain 10% polyurethane, were chosen as specimens. Fabric growth were determined to evaluate fatigue properties. Qmax was determined to evaluate the warm-cool feeling. For the sensory test, semantic differential scale which contains 15 adjectives were developed. Fatigue properties were very similar at the 20% elongation irrespective of the duration of tension, but at 40% and 100% elongation, man made fabric showed less growth than cellulose fabrics. The factor analysis showed four factors such as sense of warmth, smoothness, weight and elasticity. Preference of the specimens was ranked in the order of Tactel>Modal>cotton>nylon>polyester.

• 복식
• /
• 제66권8호
• /
• pp.46-60
• /
• 2016

Countries have different brassiere patterns, and this study produced and compared 3/4 brassiere patterns from different countries to determine the difference in patterns, and to investigate the stress distribution and shape of cross section while wearing brassieres using 3D virtual fitting system. Despite the growing interest in underwear, there is a lack of related books and research on brassiere patterns, which causes the difference in sizes and pattern drafting methods by countries. Thus, research on this is needed. 3D virtual fitting system has been introduced to compare patterns, thereby improving visible effects and reducing the loss in cost caused by underwear pattern fitting test. According to the result of pattern analysis, The Secoli type exhibited the least breast cover rate (14.9 cm), while the largest cover rate was shown in Christina and ESMOD types (17.7 cm). It is believed that the difference in pattern drafting causes the difference in the total length of a brassiere. Furthermore, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres drafted from basic bodice pattern were found to be longer than the Christina and Han Sunmi brassieres attained from direct pattern drafting. Moreover, the darts' volume of upper and lower cups in Christina and Han Sunmi types was similar in shape. The shapes of cradle drafted from basic bodice pattern were a straight line, while those from direct drafting formed a curved shape. In fitting multiple cross sections, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres had gaps between the brassieres and the body. Among these, the largest number of gaps was observed in the ESMOD type pattern. This study aimed at performing comparative analysis of various brassieres' pattern drafting types as a basic research for developing a brassiere pattern drafting type.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제34권1호
• /
• pp.50-66
• /
• 2010

This Shanghai region study is a sample survey of female college students in their early 20s. This study collected and analyzed the information of shapes through a direct contact survey to understand the breast figures and the measurements of bodies to provide basic information to improve brassiere production for adult females in China. Data was analyzed through a SAS 9.0. The characteristic of the final brassiere pattern that had been corrected and complemented from the results of the $l^{st},\;2^{nd},\;3^{rd}$, and $4^{th}$ fitting tests is defined as a brassiere inserted with a round wire that has the 3/4cup to wrap the bust area by about 3/4. It consists of an upper and lower nonwoven fabric cup that has a flat-shaped wing of a circular dart. The drawing method of the pattern of this brassiere is applied with the conditions to cover the body naturally under the diverse and organic relations of the material factor of stretch material and wire, functional factor, and sewing factor. The final pattern is created as a bigger angle of wing pattern and a short inner side diameter because there are more Chinese women with a back of bending figure compared to Korean women.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제15권2호
• /
• pp.15-26
• /
• 2013

The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designing and making of brassiere with the consideration of the physiological nature of man. Each of 3/4-cup wired upward-support-type Mold Bra of 75 size with basic pad made at three representative domestic companies (A, B and C Company) was selected for analysis of pattern and components. The following is the result of this study. 1. That Company A's bra had the highest cup, relatively narrow width, the widest front-center and the highest front center at front pad. That of Company B had relatively short wing over the base and much difference at the height of cup depending on the presence of wire. That of Company C had low and wide cup, the widest bust span and the front center width, the front center height of front pad, the base length of front pad and the length of wings were observed to be of the figures between those of Company A and B. 2. The Bra of Company A had the biggest front center angle of $6^{\circ}$, while that of Company C had the biggest wing angle of $18^{\circ}$. The Bra of Company B showed the biggest difference of patterns depending on the presence of wire. Those of Company A and C showed very similar shape when wire was inserted. 3. The order of making brassiere is following: making of exterior mold cup${\rightarrow}$ sewing exterior cup and circumference of mold${\rightarrow}$ sewing base and wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to base${\rightarrow}$ sewing cup and main pad${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to upper sides and upper part of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing wire-tape to interior base of cup${\rightarrow}$ inserting of wire inside wire-tape${\rightarrow}$ sewing hook & eye on the back of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing shoulder string.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제16권4호
• /
• pp.635-644
• /
• 2014

This study provides basic reference data for brassiere wearing conditions, design preferences of new silver women (50s-60s) and development of brassiere products. We compiled and compared 163 pieces of brassiere (considering of 105 domestic general brassieres and 58 foreign silver brassieres) analyzed using SPSS Statistics 21 program. A survey was then conducted on the actual wearing, purchasing conditions, design preferences for 176 females (50s-60s). The result of this study are as follows: First, comparing actual product conditions (domestic general products and foreign silver products), the ratio of full cup in cup height, V-shape type in neckline shape, long type in front-end length, wide type in wing width, U-shape type in shoulder strap form, wide type in shoulder strap width, no-wire brassieres in breast wire type, all-in-one type in shoulder strap separation, back type in closure type appeared higher than other types of brassiere in domestic general product. Second, a study also showed that 60s women's wearing time is lower than 50s women's; however, 60s women expressed a higher figure and preference for the purchasing ratio in the department store, full cup in cup height, short type in length of brassieres, wide type in wing width, U-shape in shoulder strap form, small type in shoulder strap width, back type in closure type and no-wire brassieres than those in their 50s. It was found they prefer fabric with a high natural content, nude tone color without decoration & pattern and camisole brassieres.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제17권6호
• /
• pp.988-995
• /
• 2015

Gaps between the upper edges of brassiere mold cups and the breasts are one of the most serious issues in realizing comfort wearing of commercial brassieres for small-breasted women. The surplus ease amounts causing the fit problem were measured from 3D wearing images of the small-breasted women's brassieres. The effect after the removing the surplus ease amounts from the upper edge of mold cup was approved by subjective wearing evaluation. Since the volume distribution of mold cup can also affect the wearing sensation of brassiere, the subjective wearing sensation was compared for two brassieres of different volume distributions, V_L, of which volume was concentrated at the lower cup, and V_C, which has the thickest part at the nipple. As the results, the suitable sensation for cup volume and the natural wearing silhouette could be accomplished by removing the surplus ease amounts from the upper edge of mold cup to reduce the gaps between brassieres and the breasts, which could be accomplished through an approach reducing the volume near the upper edge of mold brassiere cup and making the volume concentrated at the lower cup. These works provide a useful information on the design of the brassiere mold cups for small-breasted women. Moreover, modeling methods of 3D scan data and 3D printing technique for making more accurate mold cases used in this research can be helpful to develop and evaluate clothing products in future.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제14권2호
• /
• pp.117-128
• /
• 1990

The purpose of this study is to find fitness of brassiere by means of body measuring value, its variation volume, the evaluation of perceptive image, and the evaluation of the sense of wearing. The results were as follows; 1) According to comparison for body measuring value before and after wearing brassiere, bust point (B.P.) height, lower bust height, upper chest circumference, chest circumference, and bust depth are increased, and lower chest circumference, bust point breadth, shoulder middle point - B.P., B.P. -under bust, and cup horizontal girth are decreased. 2) The difference of variation volume by material is not accepted. The part above $20\%$ at variation rate is under the region of the armpit, that is, the region connected arm from the back. 3) The subjects replied that they wore the brassiere in order to compensate the breast and needed to wear it regardless of thiness and obesity. They wore the brassiere in order to dress themselves in good shape, and felt that it put pressure upon the body, while it had nothing to do with adjusting bodily temperature and gave the sense of security. 4) The estimate of the sense of wearing by material is recognized as the difference of the attention at attentive level $1\%$. The multiple factor analysis of each item in the sense of wearing showed that the items which are explained over $90\%$ by common factors are '1. Unpreasant in touch', '2. The part of edge is haggard', '15. Not to be fit'.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제1권3호
• /
• pp.60-70
• /
• 1997

The purpose of this study is to survey the sales of brassieres positively those of elderly women's (aged 50 or older) ones in particular through 72 sales outlets and thereby, in order to present the more comfortable brassiere models which can serve to reinstate elderly women's constitution and provide the useful basic data to brassiere makers and distributors for their business. The results of this survey and the suggestions therefrom can be summarized as follows; 1) Brassieres usually sell at 10,000-20,000 wons, which allows for 15% or more margin rate. Brassieres are disposed through bargain sales once or twice every year where their price are discount 10% or higher. Meanwhile, the majority of the brassieres distributors maintain more than 15% stock rate. The accumulated stocks are primarily disposed through return to makers or bargain sales. About 15% of the brassieres sold are returned by consumers to distributors to be replaced. 2) About a half of distributors operate some or other types of sales education programs. Most of these distributors feel that their educational program have been effective which suggests the effectiveness of sales educational program. On the other hand, 83.3% of the distributors operate in-house repair shops, while the absolute majority of them brief their customers on how to wear brassieres or clean them. 3) Because elderly women's understanding of brassieres sizes is very poor, they tend to ask help of the 'sales people about their sizes before purchasing and proper one personally. In other words, it has been disclosed that old women respond positively to seller's recommendation for their brassiere sizes. 4) It has been found that the brasseries sizes purchased by old women most are. 85A, 90A and 85B in their order, which suggests that the most popular size for under bust circumference is 85~90cm, while their primary cup size is "A". 5) The type of brasseries favored most by elderly women is the "full-cup" type, while their most favorite brassiere design is a soft and simple one. The colors preferred most by them are white, beige and pink in their order. 6) When being consulted by elderly women, sales people experience various difficulties due to their poor understanding of sizes and complaint about prices. Lastly, it has been found through this survey that elderly women want to see some sales promotion material featuring their brassiere sizes and their production arid ask the brasseries makers to produce more diverse brasseries sizes.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제42권5호
• /
• pp.737-752
• /
• 2018

The frequency of breast augmentation surgery continues to increase annually; however, the method of follow-up care varies from hospital to hospital. In particular, many different types of post-operative bras are available in the market. This study evaluated the wearing comfort of various commercial bras that were worn immediately after breast enlargement surgery prior to the manufacture of the bra. According to interviews of medical professionals and market research, five types of brassiere were selected and evaluated by wearing satisfaction, functional performance, and an external appearance test for 6 subjects with breast augmentation surgery. The evaluation questionnaires were based on a 5 point Likert scale with data analyzed using SPSS 20.0. The study results revealed that the bra with the highest degree of satisfaction was CNB (without bra cup) type. However, the use of CNB type showed dissatisfaction in functional evaluation questions regarding breast shaking and material & tactile sensation. In the future, it is necessary to develop a new post-operative brassiere based on a CNB type bra that showed the best evaluation. However, it is also necessary to identify the merits of the other four experimental bras and reflect these advantages.