• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 2013

The study is to provide basic data on improving costume's fitting by developing physical integrated Basic Bodice Block's development for body types of adult women, which is based on setting up body-type information per truncus as fundamental of adult women's top product manufacture in being ready for Mass Customization era. Also, after review on the objectivity and accuracy of fitting information by real wear and virtual wear experiment on body types, not only 3D virtual clothing system was used as way of information provider of Clothing product, but also provided as basic data in order to use effectively on portion of clothing passion in responding to trend of Mass customization in advance. The consequence of the study is as followings. After analyzing significance differences per items on real and virtual wear evaluation, bowed type of type 1 had significance differences on waist measurement and hip circumference in back and side, which would be knowing as not integrated with costume, affecting form of human body according to virtual wear system bended on back region. Also, in side evaluation, every types except straight body type of type 3 appeared significant differences. In virtual wear evaluation, costume's expression with side body types were not similar to real wear until now except straight body types. It would be improvement things from 3D virtual wear system in advance.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.15-26
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• 1987

The purpose of this study was to develop the pattern drafting method which would be suitable to their physical characteristics for the fatty body of 40∼55 aged Korean women who are more than 1.5 Rohrer's Index and 90㎝ bust girth. The study was composed as follows; 1. Body measurement and statistical analysis: One hundred and thirty women were measured on 29 items. Thirty-four items including 29 measured items and 5 calcutated items were analyzed statistically. 1) Mean, standard deviation, variance, maximum, minimum, range were computed. 2) Correlation coefficients between each items were computed. 2. Development of new bodice pattern drafting method: Measurement items necessary to draft new bodice pattern were bust girth, center back waist length, shoulder width, back width, chest and neck base girth. The new pattern was examined through three wearing tests for completion. 3. Evaluation of the new pattern drafting method: The new pattern was objectively evaluated by the sensory test. The sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new pattern for the fatty body women by comparint it with the conventional patterns. The results of sensory tests of the new pattern are as follows: 1) The composite reliability coefficient is 0.7698, and the reliability of sensory test shows high. 2) According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 23 items on the questionaire, all the items showed significant differences(α 0.01) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new pattern is better conventional pattern as the average mark of the former is 3.901 but that of latter is 2.926. The new pattern drafting method proved to be superior to the conventional one especially in the fitness at the center front neck point, shoulder point, side line, armscye depth, position of bust point, chest width line, under arm dart and the shoulder line.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.846-858
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• 2008

This study was designed to propose a method to draft bodice block pattern from 3D body scan data. Subjects were ten elderly women in their 60's, who wear basic size(B: 94cm, W: 82cm) garment. Scanning was done using 3D whole body scanner(WB4, Cyberware). Measurements for 3D data and cross section were attained using Auto CAD, by which a upper bodice pattern for elderly women was drawn on the basis of short measured method. The results are as following: As for most items, no significant differences were shown between measurements from Martin's anthropometry and those from 3D scan data, suggesting measurement from 3D scan data could be used to draft a pattern. The drafting equations acquired were as follows; width of pattern=B/2+5.5, width of waist=W/2+3.5cm, dart amount=8cm. Dart distributions were 23%(B.P.) : 20%(front armpit) : 17%(side seam) : 18%(back armpit) : 15%(back protruded point) : 7% (center back line). Through wearing test using 5-point Likert scale, resultant pattern was evaluated as appropriate for elderly women's pattern to get over 4 point. As a result, it might be said that 3D scanning application is effective for elderly women in that it doesn't take time so much as Martin's anthropometry and that their body shape vary compared with those of young women.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.969-977
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• 2007

The research thesis has been intended to make a comparative analysis on the basic bodice pattern and basic skirt pattern changing on the basis of setting waist line of dress form in an effort to set reasonable standards in selecting the standard lines of drees form. The thesis has made the wearing evaluation by producing the sample of upper and lower dress based on A pattern and B pattern. In details, A pattern functions to keep waist line flatly down from lateral waist-right to posterior waist in a little curved state, paralleling bust line and hipline with waistline. And, B pattern functions to keep waistline, bust line and hipline horizontal paralleling with ground surface. SPSS win 10.1 program was used for the analysis of evaluation and t-test. The result is as follows: For basic bodice-front of upper dress, A and B patterns have made little significant difference. With regard to basic bodice-back, B pattern has got the higher evaluation than A pattern, in the pattern stability and appearance. For basic skirt pattern, A pattern has got the lower evaluation in the aspect of total back appearance, back dart, hip line, and waist line, and front drape. Basic bodice pattern of A pattern, which takes on the different horizontal standard lines of dress form depending on the selection of waistline, and basic skirt pattern has scored less in terms of pattern stability and appearance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.3_4
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• pp.429-440
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to classify the types of men's shoulders through the criteria which represent the characteristic of men's shoulders. In addition, we introduce new bodice patterns depending on our classification. We have the fo11owing conclusions based on our sample size of 200 men's shoulders: 1. The result of factor analysis indicates that six factors are extracted and they consist of 62.3% of total variance. We then choose three factors as standard items for our classification of the shape of men's shoulders. 2. We divide the shape of shoulders into three categories: bent, slopeness, and thickness. Each category is divided into three subcategories. (a) Bent: If one's shoulders are bent forward or backward, then we call them front or back-bent type. Otherwise, they are called standard-bent type. (b) Slopeness: If one's shoulders have an easy or steep slope, then we call them easy or steep slope type. Or else, they are called standard slope type. (c) Thickness: If one's shoulders are thick or thin, then we call them thick or thin type. Otherwise, we call them standard thick type. 3. According to the frequency based on our data entries of 200 men's shoulders, we introduce five new types of men's shoulders. 76.5% of examined men's shoulders belong to one of these five types: (a) 8.0% of standard slope and back-bent type: (b) 9.5% of easy slope and standard-bent type; (c) 45.5% of standard slope and standard-bent type; (d) 5.5% of steep slope and standard-bent type; (e) 8.0% of standard slope and back-bent type. 4. The suitability of new basic bodice patterns based on the types of men's shoulders are demonstrated by the high approval rate of the subjects who participate in testing.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.143-154
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• 2020

In this study, four types of bodice patterns of elderly males in their 70s and 80s were made, and appearance evaluation was conducted through 3D simulation. For objective evaluation, airgap, cross section, color distribution, etc. were analyzed to compare differences between patterns. The pattern shape of bodice for elderly males was a pattern without darts except for the L pattern. As a result of appearance evaluation for 3D simulation, the elderly males' pattern was found to have a significant difference among the patterns on the front, side, and back items, and the H pattern was analyzed as the best pattern in all items except the armhole shape on the side. As a result of evaluating the airgap, color distribution, and cross-section, the most suitable pattern for the elderly male's body type was analyzed as the H pattern. Based on the H pattern, it is thought that the development of a pattern suitable for the upper body shape of elderly male should be made.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.636-643
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to establish the proper amount of eases according to the body type of men's bodice basic pattern. The 3 subjects in 30's men were selected for developing fitted pattern for each type. And the results of the wearing test for individual subject by distributing ease amount are as follows. The wearing test is administrated by a division of 12cm, 15m, and 18cm areas respectively after separating the fitted pattern for each type in a vertical and horizontal ways. There exists a significant difference in ease according to the measures of chest circumference of subjects. Also, it is shown that the more comfortable in function, the better visible in appearance as the ease gets proper. As to regions, the amount and ratio of ease chest circumference are increased in proportion to the size of the chest circumference. The scye depth is affected by the ease of chest circumference, while the ease of the interscye and the back breadth are lessened due to the effect of their appearances. And the side breadth is required as a buffer to complement the shortage of the interscye and the back breadth because the ease of either the interscye or the back breadth is partially transferred in motion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.105-115
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• 2000

This study was intended to find body pattern of middle aged women and make new experimental basic pattern for upper-half of the body for them. This experimental pattern on the idea of body pattern analysis was prepared. For experimental pattern, the prototype basic model was chosen with the best qualified D model from the four meaningful existing patterns. After several steps of correction experimental pattern was made. Comparing with basic D model, the new experimental pattern composed of additional bust girth by 1cm, wider back waist by 0.5cm than front waist and additional armhole by 0.5cm keeping the same size for back and front widths. Making a shoulder line up by 3cm the armhole became deeper accordingly and the room for girth has been transferred to length. Front neck girth became deeper downward but back neck girth risen a little bit. Side line of the bodice formed with inward slope taking from the waist line by 2cm. Instead of dart, modified side line slope was more practical by its function and appearance. Abdominal girth which is lower than waist girth by 8.5cm kept in same size with bust girth. Then abdominal girth became more comfortable. New experimental pattern with changes has been examined in function and appearance. In conclusion, the new experimental basic pattern for the middle-aged women has been proved more practical for both in bodice and sleeve than other existing ones in terms of function and appearance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.7
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• pp.60-74
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• 2015

It is considered that jacket was widespread in the 19th century due to its simple and convenient production technique. This study aims to explore the western women's jacket in the late 19th century, which is the basis of modern women's outwear, and we focused on the patterns and construction, the technical aspect of the jacket. We researched pattern books and preserved costume materials, and the study methods are as follows: First, we analyzed the pattern of the jackets from the pattern books and preserved costumes. Second, we analyzed the construction of the jackets from the preserved costumes and compared it to previous researches. The study results are as follows: 19th century jacket consisted of a bodice, a back bodice, a side panel, two-piece sleeve and a collar. The front bodice had cuttings and a dart to make the jacket fit the shape of the body and the two-pieced leg of mutton sleeve, puffed at the shoulder. Various styles of collar and neckline existed. The pattern suggested diverse ways of designing a jacket, such as cutting with partition, dart and pattern expansion that focused on three-dimensional effect at that time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.11
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• pp.1627-1637
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• 2002

The objective of this study is to analyze the images of basic bodice apparel displayed on the PC monitor connected to digital camera, and to suggest a more efficient alternative method that enables the expert judge to evaluate the subject both traditional method and displayed images on the computer. Appearance evaluation has traditionally been assessed using subjective method dependent upon expertjudges' senses with the naked eye after direct observation of a living model. This research faces the new challenge focusing on the sensory evaluation of appearance for basic apparel patterns, which can overcome the space and time limitations of the traditional feet methods. A total fifteen basic bodice garment (3 types of $pattern\;{\times}\;5$ subject) were constructed with same fabrics. The appearance evaluation items consist of lg questions of upper torso. The image takes font, back and side view of the dressed subject with three different situations. Data was analyzed using percentiles, standard deviation T-test and ANOVA. Taken together, the present result of appearance evaluation through digital camera image shows that there is a significant difference ($p{\leq}.001$) in the response to the placement of the neckline, the waist & shoulder dart, the general ease of the bust & waist area, the side seam, the perpendicular of the waist hem and general acceptability between the above three different situations; the image in the condition of greenish yellow background with front light showed the highest score through all questions. These results depend on the kind of background colors with the light.