• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.594-603
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• 2012

This study aimed to investigate a bias pattern making method with geometrical approach. The bias-cut dress has soft silhouette of drape in the garment. However, the bias cut dress has problem of satisfying the intended garment size spec. This problem occurs from various sources. The main reason is that the bias-cut fabric tends to stretch on longitudinal direction and to shrink horizontal direction when it was hung on the body. The goal of this study was to develop a bias-cut dress pattern making method satisfying the intended garment size spec. The researchers developed the geometrical method of measuring dimensional change by calculating the compensation ratio of the fabric in true bias direction. The compensation ratio was calculated by applying draping ratio of the fabric. Three types of fabrics were used in the experiment. The warp and weft crossing angle of fabric was ranged from $78^{\circ}$ to $82^{\circ}$. The fabrics stretched longitudinally 6.9~9.9% and shrank horizontally 7.2~11.0%. The compensation ratio of the bias-cut pattern for sample dress was calculated for each fabric type. Two types of experimental bias-cut dress patterns were developed for each fabric. One pattern was made with applying full compensation ratio and the other one made with applying partial ratio of the fabric. Experimental dresses were made with these patterns. The results of the evaluation showed that the bias-cut dress pattern applying the partial compensation ratio was more appropriate than the pattern applying the full compensation ratio.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.33-40
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• 2013

This paper focused on investigating the seam strength by cutting direction depending on the fabrics and weave by comparing the tensile strength and elongation of bias, warp and weft of 4 kinds of find cotton fabrics and combining 6 kinds of seam cutting directions. The cutting directions are selected the warp direction, weft direction and 45-degree bias direction. Then, three kinds of directions, the warp/warp direction, the weft/weft direction and the bias/bias directions, and the three different kinds of directions, the warp/weft direction, the warp/bias direction and the weft/bias directions, were finally selected. The results are as follows: The tensile strength of all fabrics was higher in the order of warp, bias and weft direction and tensile elongation was higher in the order of bias, warp and weft direction in almost all fabrics. 100's and 150's cotton fabrics showed the highest seam strength when they were cut in the bias/bias direction. The seam strength of the fabrics cut in the same direction was the highest in the fabrics cut in the bias/bias direction. Four kinds of fabrics demonstrated the similar seam strength. However, for the seam strength of fabrics cut in the different directions, 100's cotton fabrics had the difference of seam strength by direction and weave, but 150's cotton fabrics didn't have any difference in seam strength by direction and weave. As described above, the seam strength was influenced by the cutting direction of fabrics. Accordingly, the seam strength can be improved by changing the cutting direction of seam when making the clothing.

• Proceedings of the Korean Vacuum Society Conference
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• 2010.02a
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• pp.465-465
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• 2010

Cut off probe, the efficient method, can measure the plasma parameters like the plasma electron density and the electron temperature. Plasma potential is also one of the important parameters in plasma processing but cannot be measured by cut off probe yet. Thus we developed method to measure plasma potential by focusing on relation between bias on a tip and sheath around tip. The system consist of a ICP(Inductive Coupled Plasma) source, a Network analyzer and a bias tee that can be bridge apply DC voltage on the cut off probe tip. Plasma potential is identified by using this system. The results corresponded well with the measured results by single langmuir probe(SLP).

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.157-161
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• 2004

The clothing by bias-cut fabric are outstanding in their shilluettes mainly due to their high level of drapability. The clothing, however, need a specific cutting process for being even trimming line skirts. The 3-D trimming system developed in the study has been successful in making high-quality skirts with extremely even trimming line. The system is expected to make quality apparel in shorter manufacturing time.

• Proceedings of the Korean Vacuum Society Conference
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• 2011.02a
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• pp.202-202
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• 2011

Diagnostics of plasma density is a key factor for monitoring plasma processing. Various probes are invented to measure plasma density and cut-off probe is a one of the most promising diagnostics tool for measuring plasma density. However, at the low density or high pressure the cut-off probe cannot clearly resolve the cut-off peak. Several reasons make this problem: Cut-off likes peaks caused by cavity resonances and weaken transmission spectrum signal at high pressure. Recently, You et al., have researched mechanism of cut-off probe and we improve the cut-off reliability and sensitivity base on that research. Modified cut-off antenna is adapted and bias cut-off probe method is tried. These experiment results have good agreement with the previous study and show good measurement characteristics.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.19-22
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• 2003

경사의 사선방향으로 절단하여 봉제된 바이어 컷 직물로 제조된 의류는 일반 의류와 달리 우아한 외관을 타나낸다. 이 직물의 단점은 형태안정성이 나빠서 완전제품의 형태가 패턴의 형의 형태와 다른 모양을 나타내는 경우가 많으며, 특히 밑단 부분이 불균일하게 쳐지므로, 가지런히 절단하는 트리밍공정을 부가적으로 거치게 된다. 현재의 봉제 공정에서는 트리밍 단계를 모두 숙련공들의 수작업에 의존한 평면 커팅 방법으로 수행하기 때문에 작업자의 피로도에 따라 불량품이 양산되고 그에 따른 소비자들의 불만 요인도 높아지므로, 본 연구에서는 치수 조절 마네킹을 제조하여 실제 의복 착용 상태를 그대로 재현 한 후, 회전시키면서 스스로 회전하는 자동 커터에 의해서 공간상에서 트리밍 하는 3-D 입체 시스템을 개발하였다. 이 시스템에 의하여 제조된 의류는 트리밍 라인이 균일하고 매끄러우며, 안감이 밖으로 밀려나오는 경우가 없어 외관상 품위가 있는 외관을 나타내었다. 또한 수작업에 비하여 제조 속도가 훨씬 빠르므로 봉제 후공정에서의 의류 제조 시간을 획기적으로 단축하는 신속 생산 시스템의 요소로서 충분히 사용될 수 있는 가능성을 나타낸다.

• Proceedings of the IEEK Conference
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• 2000.06b
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• pp.9-11
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• 2000

To increase the device linearities and the breakdown-voltages of FETs, Al$\sub$0.25/ Ga$\sub$0.75/AS / In$\sub$0.25/Ga$\sub$0.75/As / Partially doped channel FET(DCFET) structures are proposed. The metal- insulator -semiconductor (MIS) like structures show the high gate-drain breakdown voltage(-20 V) and high linearities. The devices showed the small ripple of the current cut-off frequency and the power cut-off frequency over the wide bias range.

• Survey Research
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.93-101
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• 2004

In business survey, cut-off sampling is usual, The contribution from cut-off part of the population is at least small in comparison with the remaining population. In this case, part of the target population is excluded from the selection and parameter estimations are only based on Take-all and Take-some stratum. It may be tempting not to use resources on enterprises that contribute little to the overall results of the survey. And this reduces the response burden for these small enterprises. But, the size of cut-off stratum has been increased as a way to manage reduced budgets. This leads to additional bias. In this study, the population have been separated as three stratum, cut -off, take-some, take-all, and we will estimate cut-off part using auxiliary variable.

• Communications for Statistical Applications and Methods
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.465-471
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• 2001

Randomized response technique is a survey technique for eliminating evasive answer bias. But this technique has a problem. This procedure suffers from linguistic expression in randomizing device. Thus for solving the problem, in this paper, we suggested the randomized response technique using fuzzy logic.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.472-483
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyse the effects of knit samples' mechanical properties on changes of skirt length of knit flared skirt, and to compare it to the knitting method of a seamless knitted flare skirt. So, I compared the appearance and 3-dimensional shape of a seamless knitted flare skirt with those of a fully cut knit flared skirt. For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The results are as follows: The result of the evaluation of knit samples' mechanical properties by the KES-FB system showed that elongation decreased as gauge increased and course direction was greatest among grain directions. The length change after wearing the knitted flare skirts appeared wholly equal to the seamless knitted, compared with the cut and sew. The change was biggest at $180^{\circ}$, 7G of the cut and sew. In grain direction, bias cut showed more than 1.2cm of length change. As the weight and thickness increased, the length changes become larger. The regression analysis indicated that the greatest contributive variables on the length changes were elongation, weight, and thickness.