• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.3
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• pp.138-150
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to investigate research trends of subject matter in clothing construction field in clothing and textiles and to suggest the information for the future directions for fashion business and research. 2737 articles with clothing and textiles subject matter, 350 articles with clothing construction field in the Journal of Korean Society of Costume and Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles from 2001 through 2010 were analyzed. The major conclusions of the study are as follows: 1. Clothing construction field took 12.8% with 350 articles in the researches of the Journal Publications in 2000s. 2. Clothing construction field showed more proportions in the latter half of the decade. 3. Clothing construction field were classified into 5 topics : topic of basic pattern and pattern for apparel, topic of body types, topic of functionality of clothing and protective clothing, topic of size system of apparel, topic of sewing and manufacturing process. 4. In clothing construction field, topic of basic pattern and pattern for apparel took the most proportions. 5. Topic of body types, topic of functionality of clothing and protective clothing, topic of size system of apparel, topic of sewing and manufacturing process were followed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.112-120
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to develop Andongpo apparel pattern design connected with the Apparel CAD system. It includes pattern making, grading, marking program. In this study, it will be able to make apparel pattern quickly and accurately by using Apparel CAD system. The results were as following : Computerization of the pattern making process is expected to provide higher accuracy and efficiency in apparel pattern making for narrow and expensive Andongpo. ESMOD pattern making method was selected as basic pattern. Tailored jacket patterns were developed for Andongpo. Refer to and . The jacket patterns developed is automatically depicted by inputting consumer's body size. Tailored jacket patterns for Andongpo were marked by using marking program in Apparel CAD system. The efficiency of marking appeared of 70% or more in Andongpo jacket patterns. This results is showed it has an effect on narrow and expensive Andongpo. 3tailored jacket patterns will be able to make a simulation by 3D Apparel CAD system. The results of this study is expected to provide higher consumer's satisfaction and internet brand launching. In addition, encouraging majority of the young to participate in using CAD program for Andongpo is regarded as beneficial for the reinforcement of competitiveness of traditional clothing business.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.93-104
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• 1994

Nowadays computer technology is being applied in various areas of apparel design. In particular, since the task of pattern making is to be performed by a set of predefined drawing rules, the effect of computer application in pattern making will be significant, There have been a large number of studies on pattern making program. For instance, the previous studies have developed computer programs for pattern making of women's wear, men's wear, children's wear, Han-Bok, etc. Most of them have focused on the development of computer program for a particular kind of apparel only and, however, have disregarded the feasibility of developing a multi-purposed computer program so that is just can be modified to adopt for various styles. For example, by widening the hem-wide of the basic H-Line skirt and then connecting its waist line and widened hem-wide, we can draw the A-Line skirt. Therefore, we have developed a program which can make a pattern for the basic skirt and can mae, with a slight change of he program, other patterns for various style as well. The objective of this paper is to identify and organize modules which will be used for developing a general pattern making computer system. This general pattern making system is a computer program by which we can draw a variety of apparel styles. This system is restricted to skirt pattern making only. there presentation scheme used in organizing these modules is an AND-OR tree, the one being often used in representing a complex problem in artificial intelligence domain.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.87-95
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to survey toddlers' apparel brands in Korea for operation of pattern work rooms, pattern sizes and uses of bodies and measurements, and thereby, provide for some basic data useful to development of toddlers' apparel prototypes and production of bodies. For this study, 13 domestic brands were surveyed. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; As a result of surveying the pattern work rooms, it was found that 53.8% of the sample brands employed a director of pattern work room, while 38.5% of them did not employed any pattern director. 7.7% of the sample brands employed two pattern directors. Such findings suggests that pattern works for toddlers' apparels are neither specialized nor differentiated as for adults' apparels, and therefore, that apparel production is not efficient. In view of the body profiles, only six brands possessed some or other bodies produced in Japan. The average breast size of No. 3 body was found 51.7cm, waist 48.4cm and hip size was 53.7cm. According to National Standard Body Size Survey Report, average breast size of three-year-old toddlers is 51.2cm, The average waist size is 49.5cm, and the hip size is 52.6cm. All in all, our toddlers' sizes are slightly different from Japanese toddlers', and so, it is deemed necessary to produce the bodies for our toddlers' apparels. As a consequence of surveying the measurements used for pattern production, it was found that five brands of the sample brands were using some or other 'body measurements', and another five brands were body measurements and apparel ones in parallel. All the brands sampled were found using some or other 'apparel measurements'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.799-809
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• 2000

This study was designed for automated pattern drawing and grading a man's Durumagi, Korean traditional coat in order to reestablished and grade the pattern by Apparel CAD SYSTEM. For the study, AM-250 systems of Gerber as the computer and Macro program as the automated drawing were used. Also, PDS(Pattern Design System) was used for the grading of the original Durumagi pattern. Results were followings; First, the size data that could be standardized by reestablishing the pattern of a man's Durumagi by each size was presented. Second, The pattern was developed by each size. Third, new design was propose for mass production with the traditional design of the DURUMAGI Fourth, The time for making DURUMAGI pattern and the cost through the automated drawings by using the Macro program were reduced. Moreover, was presented the basic data for a ready to made garment like the Western garment. Five, A man's DURUMAGI by CAD System was graded that could be applied to ready to made Hanbok

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.391-406
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to utilize of apparel CAD System by the classification of the basic pattern block in pattern making process. Gerber AM-300 CAD System was used for this study. The results form this study were as follows; 1. New shirts block were developed. 2. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new shirts block for women by comparing it with Japanese Bunka shirts blouse pattern making method. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 20 items on the questionnaire, the 19 items showed significant difference(${\alpha}{\leq}0.01$)between the two, with the new shirts block having higher scores. 3. A basic pattern block was selected by the design sketch. 4. P/D/S were enabled to be constructed directly from a block pattern. The drawing, deletion. duplication, and movement of all points and lines in the pattern might be made freely, and the split, pivot, and movement of the pattern, and the attachment of two patterns were possible. 5. Automatic grading of finished pattern have been developed by creation and modification of grading rules of block pattern.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.239-245
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was for analysis of ease about basic bodice pattern, as the first step of the research process for the drawing method of basic bodice for women in their twenties. The five selected basic bodice were made and they were worn by FRP body The garment space of each bodice was measured by analysis of the garment space of each section in figure of polymerization of cross section by a 3-D measuring instrument. The research suggests that this compared analysis is an objective reference. This analysis not only of the area of cross section of garment space and ease but also of the girth of the body shape and wearing shape, using the PAD system and 3-D measuring instrument, can be helpful in making garment patterns.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.637-646
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• 2016

The goal of this study is to provide basic data on developing circular knit basic pattern for women in their 20's. Production conditions of circular knit product pattern making among domestic women's apparel industry was researched, and collected data on sizes and ease amounts from woven and circular knit pattern were compared and analyzed. According to the result of the survey, product measurements adjusted to the actual body size fit for the brand's image were used, and the common problem among manufacturers and consumers regarding circular knit products turned out to be change in size and form due to stretching. For the basic pattern of circular knit, stretching quality was reflected in the woven basic pattern based on plain stitch(single knit) and then dart was removed and ease amount was reduced. The result of looking into size and ease amount about woven and circular knit torso & sleeve block shows that there is a significant difference among chest circumference, hip circumference, bi-shoulder length, interscye back, interscye front, scye depth, upper arm circumference and wrist circumference, and it was clear that circumference and width on the areas around the wrist tended to fit around the body more when circular knit was used instead of woven fabric.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.79-91
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• 2021

This study aims to rectify the disfigurement of bowlegged, (which means they have a gap between knees due to knee joint problems) females in their twenties through the development of pants patterns. The contents of the study are as follows: First, two types of basic pattern-making methods were selected. Two mock-ups, which were made by using these pre-selected basic patterns, were worn by three bowlegged participants and evaluated with a fit test. A basic pattern, which had good body fit was selected, which had a bubble or a wedge at in crotch area and roomy or snug upper thigh. Second, the mock-up, which was made by using the selected basic pattern, led to the outward movement of crease lines. Two types of patterns that were adjusted were evaluated through a fit test. As a result, an effective adjustment for moving the crease line to the outside or to the center was to cut along the slash line of a horizontal balance line to, but not through the crotch seam to spread the pattern at the hip. Third, three patterns were readjusted using the chosen alteration pattern, and the crotch seam and spread patterns of 1 cm, 2 cm, and 3 cm at the hip were applied. As a result of the evaluation of the fit test, three participants-the majority-showed a better fit when the spread amount in the pattern was 2 cm, although every participant did have a different gap between the knees. This study has significance in which rectifies the disfigurement of bowlegged individuals through the development of patterns for females in their twenties who are bowlegged.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.100-114
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• 2004

This is a basic study for developing educational dress forms of male adults' pattern making. While examining the reality of each university's men's wear education and the production of male dress forms, this paper found the following findings: 1. Survey of Dress Forms Used by Men's Apparel Companies The men's apparel companies had dissatisfaction with domestic dress forms but satisfaction with foreign-made ones. In general, among the unsatisfied items were wide discrepancy in male Korean body sizes, unfitting domestic somatotypes, lacking dress forms for those in the 20s, and no diverse forms per body type. To be specific, unsuitable hip and shoulder parts as well as weak fixing parts were pointed out. Every apparel companies found it necessary to develop male dress forms based on Korean male adults. When they are developed for sale, they will be highly utilized in the order of fitting, pattern making, male design research, and somatotype research. 2. Survey of Education for Men's Wear in Fashion Dept. of University 61.54% of the investigated universities had some teaching as far as men's wear were concerned. Application areas of male dress forms were such as pattern making (53.85%), fitting (41.38%), and design research (5.77%). As to the degrees of utilization, 73.08% predicted them high.