Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.2
no.1
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pp.113-121
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2000
The effect of Sunlight exposure on reducing the microorganism counts in the bedding materials was experimented by using 3 kinds of microorganisms(S. aureus, K. pnenmoniae and E. coli) and 3 kinds of fabrics (cotton, silk and polyester). Counts of the microorganism were examined before and after sunlight exposure. The sunlights were controlled U.V and Daylight D50 using MacBeth artificial light source. The specimens were exposed for 5 min, 10 min and 30 minutes under the $20^{\circ}C$ and 60% R.H, distance is 50cm from the light source. Results were as follows, 1. The reduction rate of the 3kinds of microorganisms was remarkably great under the U.V exposure. The U.V. exposure was very effective way to sterlize the bedding materials in the house care. 2. S. aureus was the most susceptible to U.V. exposure and the sunlight exposure. E. coli was the most resistant to the U.V and the sunlight exposure. 3. The reduction rate of the 3 kinds of fabrics was not significantly different. The polyester is more resistant than the silk and the cotton. Those were shown good reduction rate if all kinds of microorganism under the U.V and daylight.
Scientific investigation of cultural heritage can provide important information to understand the context of the object. To know the characteristics of the material is also an essential part of objects management and conservation. However, the identification and characterization of organic dyes used in archaeological and historical textiles are often limited by the restrictions in sampling. To cope with the difficulties, applications of high-performance techniques of surface analysis, such as Time of Flight-Secondary Ion Mass Spectra (TOF-SIMS) could be considered as a non or micro-destructive option. This study aims to examine the applicability of TOF-SIMS analysis to the detection of organic dyes from historical textiles. A group of silk fabrics dyed with vegetable dyes were artificially photo-aged to different degrees and analyzed with TOF-SIMS. Molecular and fragment ions from indigo were successfully detected from the aged samples; however, only some fragment ions were observed from gardenia and safflower dyed fabrics. Further studies with actual historical samples with extended examination scope would be necessary to assess the validity of this technique.
Water-soluble sulfobetaine chitosan (SCs) was prepared for a blending film with Bombyx mori silk fibroin (SF) by reacting chitosan with 1,3-propanesultone. A series of SF/SCs blended films were successfully prepared by mixing aqueous solutions of B. mori SF and SCs. The SF/SCs blended films were examined through spectroscopic and thermal analysis to determine the morphological changes of SF in the SCs. The effects of the SF/SCs blend ratios on physical and mechanical properties were investigated to discover the feasibility of using these films as biomedical materials such as artificial skin and wound dressing. X-ray analysis showed good compatibility between the two biopolymers. The in vitro degradation behavior of the SF/SCs blended films was systematically investigated for up to 8 weeks in phosphate buffered saline solution at $37^{\circ}C$ and showed a mass loss of 46.4% after 8 weeks. All films showed no cytotoxicity by MC3T3-E1 assay. After 3 days of culture, the relative cell number on all the SF/SCs films was slightly lower than that of an optimized tissue culture plastic.
Each and everything named fashion together with clothes were limited in the boundary of women and men's wear has been slow and narrow in changing speed compared to women's, even there are some differences in accordance time. But maintaining the basic features, men's wear in the latter 20th century has undergone diverse change in the part of materials such as various synthetic fiber, glass, metal, artificial leather and the see-through fabric able to seeing the body wearing the clothes. Therefore, the aim and definition of this study is to present the systematic framework giving help to develop men's wear design newer and more various by considering moulding of materials which existing men's wear could not show up and by grasping material trend of men's clothes in 1990s. The results of the study were summarized as follows : (1) Material containing lustering is categorized as Velvet, Silk, Lustering materials by synthetic fiber and Lustering materials by additional substance. The Velvet generally acknowledged having something to feel womanly image shows the bisexual character coexisting feature of men and women after grafting with men'fashion. The Silk was endowed the role as means of pleasure to express beyond boundary of sex breaking the existing consciousness which men should wear male clothes, not considering differences between men and women. The lustering made by synthetic fiber expressed modern sensitivity aesthetically to the suit. The lustering materials made by additional substance is seen mixed masculine character with womanly character. (2) See-through materials are acknowledged as decadence beauty caused by expanding subjective awareness in beauty. (3) Materials by the sorts of Net is categorized as Lace, Knit The Lace expression seemed to emphases the human liberation of men and women and the humanity from liberation of subjecthood. The Knit can be felt both woman's image and man's image as bisexual image, not raising only one side sex. (4) Elastic materials offered the opportunity to approve exposure in a time when exposure of men's body was not granted ethically. (5) Leather was shown as indication of social status and inferiority and expression of collective resistance against sexual stagnation of men and women.
The study is intended to produce a modern Cheollik style one-piece dress that stays within the traditional concept of beauty. Specially, the study focuses on Cheollik of the Joseon Dynasty among various traditional costumes as its motif. As the Joseon Dynasty changed, the forms of Cheollik changed with it. People of all classes from the commoners to king wore it. Cheolik was different from other traditional costumes because the top and bottom were connected and so it was an easy to wear one-piece clothing. Initially, the ratio of upper and lower parts was one to one, but later on, the ratio changed to 1:2 as the topcoat became wider and length of the skirt was lengthened. Diverse types of pleat emerged such as fine pleat, opposite pleat and long pleat. Collar and string were also diversified and studied by applying the components. To study it, the author considered the previous studies about Cheollik first. Then, the Cheollik of the Joseon Dynasty was reproduced. Thirdly, with the motif of Cheollik components, the materials suitable to a one-piece dress design were selected, dyed naturally. Finally, One piece dress design was utilized by using the components and features of Cheollik. 8 pieces of one-piece dresses were made as an ordinary dress and the materials such as ramie, Oksa, hemp, silk, Yeon-hwamun dan and artificial silk were used. Hopefully, other traditional costumes can develop as a practical and ordinary dress.
The use of royal artificial flowers was finally found through schematics and records in Wonhaeng Eulmyojeongri Uigwe, which organized the procession to Hwaseong in 1795. The results of classifying the uses of artificial flowers in the brthday banquet at Bongsudang Hall in 1795 and considering the shape, user, and usage are as follows. According to literature records, artificial flowers were made with high-quality materials such as gold, silver, and silk thread in the early period, but were mainly made of paper in the later period. Artificial flowers were used for decorating official hats, Bongsudang Hall, and banquet tables. The Sagwonhwa was used for decoration of the official hats of members of the royal family, and the one on the top was called Eosam-Sagwonhwa. At the birthday banquet inBongsudang Hall, King Jeongjo and Hyegyeonggung used the Eosam-Sagwonhwa and put it on the right side of the official hats. Officials put peach blossom with two petals on the left side of the official hats for decoration. The artificial flowers for decoration of the official hats of musicians and dancers were more expensive and flashier than the officials' ones. Depending on the dance, several artificial flowers were inserted into the official hats. When measuring the size of artificial flowers, the scale used was when making a ceremonial article. For artificial flowers for decoration of the banquet hall, red and white peach blossoms were placed in two jars with dragons painted on them and them placed on two red-painted tables, respectively. The table and jar with flowers were tied together with a red cotton string and fixed so as not to fall over. The artificial flowers for decoration of the banquet table of King Jeongjo, Hyegyeonggung, and the king's sisters were a large lotus, medium-sized lotus, peony, rose, and specially made peach flowers. The artificial flowers for decoration of the banquet table of guests and officials were small lotuses and peach blossoms. The artificial flowers used in the birthday banquet at Bongsudang Hall the most were peach blossoms, and peaches had the meaning of longevity and exorcism. It is expected that the above research results will be helpful in understanding the characteristics and usage of artificial flowers in the period of King Jeongjo and use in reproducing royal feasts and producing traditional cultural contents.
The Electrophoretic separation in agarose gel on the esterase and acid phosphatase of blood, midgut and silk gland was carried out with 2 original variginal varieties and 7 F$_1$ hybrids. 1. The midgut of larvae fed on mulberry leaves showed one or two more esterase bands than that of larvae fed on artificial diet. 2. The midgut of C 15 larvae being excellently respondent to artificial diet showed one or two more esterase bands than that of larvae being bad respondent to artificial diet. 3. Electrophoretic separation of esterase bands appeared to be greatly different among newly hatched larvae, 1st and 2nd install larvae of F$_1$hybrids. However the difference among the silkworm varieties was not recognized. 4. According to the change in rearing temperature, the number of the active band of midgut esterase was varied. At the temperature of 28$^{\circ}C$ 5 active esterase bands were found. At temperature of 35$^{\circ}C$ 4 bands were noted at 3rd install and 6 or 7 bands at 4th instar. 5. No similar esterase bands conld be found among midgut, blood and silkgland. There are five esterase bands in the midgut, one in blood and three in silkgland. 6. There was rather small difference in acid phosphatase types of midgut and blood according to varieties and rearing temperature. No active band was shown in silkgland. In midgut, there was one acid phosphatase band at 3rd install, two at 4th instar and three at 5th instar. In blood, One active band at 3rd or 4th instar and three bands at 5th inatar were detected.
Lee, Jin Sil;Go, Nam Kyung;Lee, Shin Young;Hur, Won
KSBB Journal
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v.29
no.5
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pp.328-335
/
2014
Vehicle toxicity is one of the main obstacles for intracellular delivery of bioactive compounds. Silk fibroin is a natural polymer proven to have high biocompatibility since being used as suture material. In this report, fibroin microspheres were prepared without any chemical modification or cross-linking not to affect its biocompatibility. The microspheres were taken up by more than 90% of 3T3 cells. Cellular uptake continued after medium replenishment with a different-colored fluorescent microsphere, suggesting that simultaneous ingestion and exocytosis occurred. Cellular uptake of fibroin microspheres did not affect cell viability. Intracellular trafficking of the microspheres using lysosome-specific fluorescent dye revealed that fibroin microspheres were localized both in the cytoplasm and in the lysosome. Accordingly, fibroin microspheres can be a potential vehicle for intracytoplasmic delivery of large cargos, such as mixtures of proteins, nutrients or artificial organelles.
Although design, color, and material are important elements in stage costumes, stage lightning also plays significant role in the presentation of stage costumes. Costumes color, material and perception can be significantly influenced by visual effects. Stage illumination can be arranged or managed so that colors are closely related to or enhanced or change the effects of costume colors on the runway or display at specific times. The results of this thesis are as follow; 1) Fabric tone, name, brightness, and chroma of colors were changed by the colors of stage lighting. 2) An achromatic color was changed to a chromatic color after being combined with colors of stage lighting. 3) Stage illuminations can make fabric, colors look similar to stage colors. 4) Plain satin silk fabric which reflects light shows high brightness and chroma after being influenced by stage lighting its shining effects and color changes were clear and apparent. 5) Velvet pile fabric which absorbs light shows low brightness and chroma after being influenced by stage lightning its shining effects and changes of colors were not clear and apparent. In conclusion, natural lights did not significantly influence fabric colors and perception, while artificial lights had wide range of effects on fabric colors and perception.
This study has as its primary aims the following: to create a fashion design based on the aesthetic value of Art Nouveau which flourished from the end of 19 century to the beginning of 20 century. In this thesis, two themes, Rose Aroma and Iris Memory are selected among the flower patterns and are used to create two works. First, the Rose Aroma theme is for an evening dress of S-curve style made with Silk Jacquard based on rose image of Art Nouveau. For decoration, artificial rose and its stem, and leaves are used to highlight hip line. By such design associated with a flower garden, cubic effects are expressed as a design point. Second, the Iris Memory theme is for a wedding dress made with tulle based on Iris image of Art Nouveau. This dress has a special point in its top bra, underwear used like an outer garment, involving spangle, beads, pearl, and cubic in order to enhance its visual effect. These works are significant in presenting the development possibilities of various fashion designs by introducing Art Nouveau style into diverse modern fashions.
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