• Title/Summary/Keyword: art and fashion

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A Study on Deformation Dipicted on Western Costumes of the Late 20th Century (세기말 서양복식에 표현된 Deformation에 관한 연구)

  • 이효진
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.3
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    • pp.13-30
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study was to analyzed the types of Deformation dipicted on the late 1990s western costumes. The late 20th century cultural experience or lifestyle is interpreted with 'popular culture' ,popular culture is described as cultural phenomenon in postmodern condition. Contemporary popular culture may no longer be strictly 'working-class' as the idealistic purists of political formalism would like to , but does emerge from subordinate cultures, from the inventive edges of the consensus, and from the previously ignored and suppressed. It gestured through a widening democratization of styles, sounds and images, to an important remarking , to new possibilities , new perpectives, new projects. The growing importance of popular culture as a source for change of expression in the art, expecially new desire and will of artists has been caused lots of ' Deformation' in their works. Deformation, doesn't mean to represent object faithfully as it were seen through the artist's eyes. In a sense it implies that artists deform it with conscious or unconscious form. So in this study , the phenomenon of the postmodern western costumes is to describe ' formative language' called 'Deformation.' and it is classified three types, that is, 'Deformation of human-body image.' , Deformation of silhouette.' 'Deformation of detail.'. First , Deformation of human-body image is represented by deconstructive , subversive image in western costumes, a lot of costumes types of deconstruction have been shown by fashion designers are emphasized empathy with Deformation of human-body image. Second, Deformation of silhouette is also represented subversion of traditional manner and ultiity, underwear and outwear structure and ugly image. parody image of postumodernism , and so on. Above all, the late 1990s western costumes with Deformation of silhouette was an infinitely larger and more complex world than it appeared from outside and has expressed as a rejection against the values which traditional aesthetic concept had pursued, And parody through the change of internal meaning is to bring about parodox, irony, contempt, satire , unexpectedness by applying the original to inapproporate subject through its substition, inversion. Third, Deformation of detail is represented overdecoration, exaggerative distortion of for , overlapping and fetish image, parody image, kitsch image, and so on , Once fetish achieve a certain' style factor' among trendsettler, they are picked up by internationally famous fashion designers, The characteristics of kitsch are overdecoration , unfitness , imitation , used western costumes.

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A Study on the Medical Care System using Essential Oil (메디컬피부케어를 위한 에센셜 오일 적용방법에 대한연구)

  • Lee, Ae-Sun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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    • v.5 no.3
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    • pp.111-117
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    • 2007
  • Essential oils aims to rejuvenate and beautify medical skin care the body through the use of essential oils, and generally to improve our outward appearance. Much of this section fouses on the different methods by which essential oils can be used to improve the complexion or to treat specific medical care skin conditions. Beauty, however, is not just skin-deep. The condition of the medical care express the overall health of an individual. A relaxed attitude, together with a well-balanced diet, enough exercise, and a daily intake of plenty of spring water or herbal teas, all help to keep the system in top condition. Essential oils is a healing art which has powerful effects on both mind and body. The vital element in essential oils is the pure oils which are extracted from various part of different plants. The key to medical aromatherapy care lies in its dual use of essential oils and medical care massage, thus masking full use of two of our most important senses-smell and touch. Medical aromatherapy care is holistic, working mainly on the nervous system and including the head and body as part of the same treatment. Using pressure points along the spine, Medical aromatherapy care on the autonomic nervous system and has an immediate effect of relexation. In directly it also acts on mood. Many of the medical massage movements help lymphatic drainage. Essential oils have many different qualities; they can be relaxing or invigorating and are generally antisepic and antibacterial. Medical aromatherapy care can have psychological benefits. The power of essences in healing has been recognized in the treatment of insect bites. Clove, thyme, sandalwood, and lavender are a few of the essences that have antiseptic. Essential oils effect the dry skin for small visual pores, dull matte finish, rough sandy feeling, tantskin. Essential oils effect the mature/sun damaged skin for some red or couperose areas, loose saggy skin, exposure to a lot of ultraviolet light. Essential oils effect the medical care nomal skin good elasticity, healthy color(good circulation), smooth terture.

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A Study for Natural Dyeing and Functional Property of Paper and Fabrics with Green Laver Extracts (파래 추출액을 이용한 지사용 원지와 직물의 천연 염색성 및 기능성에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Ki Hoon;Kang, Sul Sang;Lim, Hyun A
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.23 no.5
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    • pp.861-871
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    • 2014
  • This study explored applicability of natural dyeing and functional property of base paper using paper yarn and fabrics with green laver extracts. As a result of measuring dyeability and functional property of cotton, silk, and a blended fabric of cotton/mulberry, $60^{\circ}C$ and 40 minutes was the optimal dyeing condition for the cotton fabric under an alkali condition; $50^{\circ}C$ and 60 minutes for the silk fabric; $60^{\circ}C$ and 50 minutes for the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry. As a result of measuring the color fastness after dyeing cotton, silk and the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry, fastness to washing, water, rubbing, dry cleaning and light was superior. In terms of functional property, the silk and the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry were superior concerning antimicrobial properties of the fabric dyed with green laver extracts while the cotton fabric showed 90% or over. Regarding deodorization, the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry was the most superior. All the fabrics were harmless to the human body as they had heavy metal content below the standard. Considering the research results comprehensively, the green laver extracts possibly has enough applicability and functional property as a natural dyes. Moreover, it has potential to be developed new eco-friendly fashion materials.

A Study on the Costume of Bactria, center of Silk Road - Focusing Analysis of Antiquities - (실크로드의 중심 박트리아의 복식 연구 - 유물 분석을 중심으로 -)

  • Chang, Youngsoo
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.19 no.4
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    • pp.400-410
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    • 2017
  • Bactria was the intersection of transportation between Greece-Iran and Central Asia at the Silk Road. This kingdom was Greek in all of its ruling classes. Because the Greek culture of Bactria spread to India and the east, Bactria was a very important place in ancient civilizations. The purpose of this study is to understand the life and the various cultures of Bactria and the influence of Greek culture on the costumes of Bactria. The research method was approached through the analysis of the empirical data. Data on antiquities were analyzed in European exhibition catalogs and secondary data collected from Internet. The results of this study are as follows: First, the original costume of Bactria was identified in two styles in the reliefs of the Persian Achaemenid. One is the tunic jacket sarapis that goes down to the knee and wide trousers with half-length boots. The other is the Scythian style trousers that looks like a barrel in a Sarapis. Second, in the Bactrian coin depicting the bust of the Bactrians, the hair styles and headgear of the Bactrian kings were analyzed. The Bactrians wore braids with short curly hair and wore Macedonian hats and helmets on them. Third, the relics excavated from the ruins of Ai-Khanuom depicted the forms of the ruling classes of Bactria. The dress styles and hair styles of gods and priests were imitating the form of the Greek costume as it is.

The Application of Make-up through Optical Illusion - Focused on Lineal Illusion -

  • Cho, Ko-Mi;Cho, Jin-A
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.7 no.6
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    • pp.57-66
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    • 2003
  • With the occurrence of interest in image-presentation that helps express one's individuality in several place in our society, it has affected make-up field. Now, make-up is getting to be recognized as a key role player that reflects our social and cultural concerns not only by presenting a appropriate one that is proper when to use and what for, but also presenting individualistic images that are able to express one's attractiveness free from a last plain concept that meant merely applying cosmetics to one's face is makeup. Like above, the reason that a change for consciousness of the function of make-up was possible is a noticeable outcome that results from the difference before and after make-up. In other word, with the help of Corrective Make-up that makes use of optical illusion, the analytic research for features could have been carried out systematically, therefore, women get to present their beauty of innate facial shape and features at their pleasure. The basic principles of the Corrective Make-up, which was introduced to satisfy the purpose of the existing make-up take advantage of lines and colors that are part of the optical illusion. The nature of direction and movement was expressed by the direction and angle of lines and the colors are also able to induce the variation of images depend on the whole color around them or contrastive color around. This thesis is mainly about optical illusion through lines that are part of elements that induce the optical illusion and deals with phenomena that occur when we apply lines that are part of design into the make-up. And this is written for the purpose of establishing the last basis of make-up more scientifically and systematically through the research for the variation when we apply the nature of lines into our features and deriving facial image variation from it. This is also for study into the role of make-up as for psychological effect that is able to make facial images look different when the optical illusion with possible visual errors is applied into it. In conclusion, we can say "Make-up is optical illusion through visual elements such as lines, surfaces, books, touch and so on."

A Study on the Plural Eclecticism and the Aesthetic Characteristics in Stage Costume - Focused on the World's Top 4 Musicals - (무대의상에 나타난 다원적 절충주의 경향에 관한 연구 - 세계 4대 뮤지컬을 중심으로 -)

  • Jun, Yuh-Sun;Kim, Jang-Hyeon;Kim, Young-Sam
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.6
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 2013
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the trend of plural eclecticism in costumes appearing on the stages of the world's top 4 musicals based on the general researches and establishments made of the mentioned concept. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, the aspects of eclectics appearing in overall pieces can be defined as situational eclecticism. It can be attributed to the dramatic elements contrasted in the storyline of the musical and occurs in mixture with various situations. Showing combinations of costumes from varying situations at once in the same stage makes the audience feel the dynamic elements of the piece. Second, the aspect of temporal eclecticism, which can be seen in the 'Phantom of the Opera' regarding mixture of crinoline style and art nouveau style, resulted from the partial mixture of classical elements for maximizing visual beauty in the historical pieces. Third, the aspect of spatial eclecticism can be observed in the musical 'Miss Saigon', which used costumes that combined multicultural elements by exposing different spaces and cultures such as America and Vietnam. It eclectically expresses the unique cultures and costumes of each country. Fourth, 'Les Miserables' shows the aspect of situational eclecticism, through its use of mixture of situations in various aspects, and in particular, the male and female costumes that blur the boundaries of life, death, and costume, the mixture of people's costume and aristocrat's costume, and the situational elements where the good and evil are contrasted are integrated eclectically to make the story dramatic.

A Study on the Traditional Korean Special Costumes in Accordance with Climatic Factors of the Korean Peninsula - Focusing on Costumes of the Commoners in the Joseon Dynasty Period - (한반도의 기후적 요인에 따른 한국 전통 특수의상연구 - 조선시대 기층민 복식을 중심으로 -)

  • Hong, Bo Ra;Kan, Ho Sup
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.66 no.3
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    • pp.107-120
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    • 2016
  • This study examines functions in traditional Korean special costumes in accordance with the climatic factors of the Korean peninsula. The study focused on clothes worn by commoners during the Joseon dynasty. Climate change has been a major global issue in recent times, and it has been a hot topic in social, cultural, scientific, economic, and industrial communities. Studies have been conducted regarding the rapidly changing climate, and finding ways to cope with unusual temperatures. This thesis studies the development of special costumes in preparation for unusual climates, and requirements of the costume in accordance with the climatic factors, as well as the direction of its development. Its biggest significance lies in collecting and organizing the research data on special costume studies, and on costumes of the commoners, which have been fairly insufficient up to this point. After the Little Ice Age, the Joseon Dynasty period faced poor external environment due to unusual temperatures. The results of studying the costumes of the commoners are as follows: The climate of the Korean peninsula displayed different characteristics depending on the season, so the form, material, and appearance of the seasonal clothing items showed clear differences, and the difference in the crops cultivated according to the climate led to difference in material and material preference shown in the costumes. This meant that costumes differed based on region. In addition, difference in social hierarchy, regulations on costume according to class, and farming oriented social background during the period of Joseon dynasty slowed the development of costumes of commoners, but appears to have had a positive effect on the development of special costumes. We anticipate more succeeding studies on costumes of the commoners and special costumes in the future. We hope more costumes that can wisely respond to the approaching changes in temperature in the Korean peninsula can be designed via modernization of traditional Korean special costumes.

A Study on the Real Somatotype and the Recognized Somatotype of Middle Ages Women (중년 여성의 실제 체형과 이상적 체형에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Young-A;Lee, Sang-Eun
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.10 no.1
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    • pp.1-9
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this research is to lay the foundation that middle aged woman takes care of more healthy, beautiful, attractive external features and prepares successful ageing on studying a difference of recognition between an actual somatotype and an ideal somatotype after we examine an actual somatotype and an ideal somatotype in the object of about $40{\sim}50$ middle-aged woman, dwells in Seoul, is the main group of a home consumption socially. The result of comparing a difference between an actual somatotype and an ideal somatotype was showing that in case of a facial form, the group which their faces are an egg-shaped prefers an egg-shaped and the group which their faces are a round-shaped prefers a round-shaped. In case of a silhouette, all groups prefers a normal type most. In case of a shoulder's type, all groups prefer a normal type most. In case of a shoulder-waist line, all groups prefers a Y line most. In case of a breast's form, all groups prefer a normal type most. In case of a back's form, all groups prefer a normal type most. In case of a buttocks' form, all groups prefers a normal type most. In case of a leg's form, all groups prefers a normal type most. On putting together research result as yet, middle aged women wish a similar somatotype irrespective of an age, an obesity measurement and this means a recognition of making an effort to be beautiful is alike. Therefore, it is necessary to recognize a somatotype of middle aged women uprightly and it must be accomplished a continuous, systematic consultation and education about a weight-control on exercising and not to mention of making a desirable eating habit.

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A Study on the Wave Formation and Hair Damage Levels Relating to the Uses of Treatments for Heat Permanent Waves

  • Kim, Kwan-Ok;Kim, Sung-Nam
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.12 no.6
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    • pp.1-10
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    • 2008
  • Public interest in healthy hairs gets growing as damaged hairs are seen more frequently with the generalization of heat permanent waves. For this study, experiments have been conducted to understand the influences on the changes in physical and morphological features of wave forms and damaged hairs, by collecting virgin hairs from the women in their mid-20's, who had not experienced chemical applications, and by dividing the applications of heat perm hair treatments, PPT(for pre-treatment) and LPP(for post-treatment), into the pre-treatment, the post-treatment, the pre & post-treatment, and the non-treatment. For the wave formations, curl waves were investigated by the bare eyes using the pictures taken by a digital camera. For the comparison of physical features, the experiments of tensile strength and elongation were done and their mean values were found. For the observations of morphological features, the pictures were taken by SEM for comparison. As for the findings, regarding the curl wave shapes of hairs, the most even and elastic S curl was formed in the case of non-treatment. In the physical features, both of the tensile strength and elongation showed a decreasing tendency in line with the hair damage levels, and the case of the pre & post-treatment indicated the tendency most similar to the control group. In the morphological features of the cuticle, observed with an SEM, the pre-treatment showed the higher possibility of reducing the cuticle damages than the post-treatment did. LPP was found to play the role of protective membrane for the post-treatment, and the pre & post-treatment turned out to reduce most effectively the cuticle damages.

A Study on the Abstraction of the Human Body in Contemporary Dance Costumes - Focusing on Oscar Schlemer's Costume Theory - (현대 무용의상에 나타난 인체의 추상화에 관한 연구 - 오스카 슐레머의 의상이론을 중심으로 -)

  • Han, Kyeng-Ha;Geum, Key-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.10
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    • pp.133-145
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    • 2010
  • The study used four basic formats classified based on the four principles on costumes discussed in the paper 'Human Beings and Arts Phenomena' by Oskar Schlemmer who studied the relationships between stage space and the human body as an analysis tool with regard to analyses on the abstraction of human body in contemporary dance costume. Abstraction of human body expressed in costume for contemporary dance is as follows: Expansions caused by unclear boundary between spaces and costumes, and the principles of three-dimensional abstract spaces based on a geometric cube change heads, trunks, arms and legs to achieve expansions. Similar mechanical shape is a type of shape made in a succession of functional principles of human body in relationships with spaces. As mechanical mechanism is added to the geometric transformation of a specific part of human body, mechanicalness is contained in it. Motion organisms are geometric simplification of moving traces in a space based on conversion into mechanical organisms based on principles of motion, and as mechanical rotation, consecutive speed caused by refraction and directionality are suggested, mobility is achieved. Immaterial shape is based on change into a metaphysical form, and it is converted into animals, plants or a third life that symbolize body parts. It has metaphysical significance in each body part and extends sensibility. As a result of the study, development into abstract succession and a techno art mode has been confirmed. Combination of geometric cubic figures with the organic human body and configuration of the human body pursued by Oskar Schlemmer's geometric abstraction through the proactive accommodation of mechanical aesthetics has been succeeded and expressed in the contemporary dance costumes.