• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.6
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• pp.1002-1015
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• 2018

In this study, we analyzed the results of virtual clothing simulation according to the difference in the lateral neck point as well as the front and back shoulder inclination angles of the bodice foundation. Lim's (2016) (S) and Lee's (1999) method (L) were selected as the different setting for the lateral neck point. S1, S2, L1 and L2 were developed by changing the shoulder inclination angles. The SND and LND were developed by removing the darts in the S and L, respectively; in addition, the SND1, SND2, LND1, and LND2 were developed with different shoulder inclination angles. The results of S and L were similar with only slight differences observed in the armhole shape. However, the results of SND and LND were very different. The patterns of the S series were similar to each other, but the patterns of the L series were different. In addition, the patterns of the SND and LND series could not find a similar trend.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.696-710
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• 2023

This study investigated the problems of Korean female combat uniforms and collected primary data for developing new combat uniforms with improved functionality. We analyzed fit and motion suitability by administering a questionnaire evaluating the current uniforms to 20 Korean female soldiers. The evaluation of fit suitability found that satisfaction with the combat uniforms was generally high. However, short sleeve length, large wrist circumference, small hip circumference, large ankle circumference, and low crotch height were discomfort factors. In the evaluation of motion suitability, dissatisfaction was found with the sleeve circumference, elbow circumference, armhole circumference, knee crease and crotch height, and back waist height during motion. Therefore, it is necessary to establish a more segmented size system that suits the physique of current female soldiers and to devise appropriate solutions for improving motion suitability. This study is meaningful for its evaluation of the current combat uniform of female soldiers, and it is expected to serve as a reference for the future development of military combat uniforms for this group.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.738-755
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data for the production of jackets with high fit by comparing and analyzing the adhesive and non-adhesive production methods of men's jackets. An analysis of the manufacturing method showcased differences between the adhesive and non-adhesive manufacturing methods in the cutting and wick attachment method, the shape and attachment method of the chest reinforcing wick, the sleeve attachment method, and the shoulder pad and sleeve reinforcing cloth attachment method. In evaluating the outfit, the overall fit of the shoulder, the fit of the chest, and the fit of the armpit were found to be high in the non-adhesive production method. In evaluating appearance evaluation, the front shoulder, chest, and sleeve overall appearance showed a high non-adhesive production method. Therefore, in order to increase the wearability of the shoulder pad and the the attachment method of the upper sleeve reinforcing cloth, the non-adhesive production method should be used, and in order to increase the overall wearability and armpit wear of the chest, the difference in the attachment method, and the reinforcement method of the armhole should be used. In addition, to increase the appearance of the jacket, non-adhesive production methods such as differences in wick attachment methods, shoulder pads, sleeve reinforcing cloth, and sleeve attachment methods should be used.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.285-298
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• 2012

Considerable number of women are enjoying swimming, however, the chest-region of swimsuits including cup inserts are not stable during swimming. The purpose of this study was to explore alternate designs and methods of stabilizing the breast cup to the swimmer's body by using 3D technology to design and position the pad and cup pattern of the swimming suit. To position the pad optimally, a 3D pattern of a nude woman was divided into blocks and different reduction rates were applied to blocks around the outlines of the breast. Two types of 3D patterns were developed. The first, referred to as the 'basic 3D pattern' provided for the curved surface of the breast point to be maintained with the remaining slack distributed evenly along the neckline, armhole and side seam. The second, referred to as the '1/3 shoulder moved 3D pattern' ignored the curved nature of the breast point by overlapping, with the resulting position of the shoulder strip moved toward the center. Three women of corresponding size and body shape evaluated the two 3D pattern designs as well as the conventional 2D pattern style of swimsuit. Respondents rated the'the basic 3D pattern' design highest in terms of stability and easy of movement in the chest region.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.299-314
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to explore effects of pattern alteration using a virtual clothing simulation approach in combination with 3D analysis software. Three raglan sleeves of different patterns were worn by an avatar using virtual clothing simulation with silk and cotton as the test fabrics. It was observed that the silhouette and hemline shape were affected differently based on raglan sleeve pattern and fabric type. By examining clothing pressure distribution, the cotton fabric designs and pattern shapes provided for a variety of influences on armhole and bust regions as well as the back sleeve area. For representative locations, cross section circumstance, cross section area, and volume were measured by using 3D analysis and the resulting correlation between the 2D and 3D data were investigated. Among different fabrics, there was little difference between the 2D and 3D clothing surface area. However, when using 3D analysis, clothing volume was significantly affected by different fabrics and pattern types. By simultaneously adopting the virtual simulator and 3D analysis, quantitative assessment of virtual clothing simulation was successfully conducted. In light of the results of this study, the resulting methodology is expected to be used as a comprehensive evaluation tool for virtual clothing simulation wear testing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.821-833
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• 2012

This study surveys preferred style and fit problems according to stature groups like short, medium, and tall to offer information to upgrade the clothing fit and satisfaction for each stature group. For this purpose, the questionnaire was accomplished, and the respondents were 18-59 year old women divided into 3 stature groups. The 6 questions were: (1) the preferred clothing style for 3 stature groups, (2) the conformity of stature designation on ready-made clothing, (3) frequency of restrictions on clothing design selection because of short or tall stature, (4) the important part to decide a good fit for a jacket, blouse, slacks, and skirt, (5) dissatisfaction with clothing fit and frequency of mending, and (6) mended part for a correct fit. They were analyzed according to 3 stature groups and the differences among 3 stature groups were found on them. For example, short women preferred short jackets; however, tall women preferred a long length. Short women experienced more restrictions on clothing design (or length) selection because a short stature. Hip girth was more important to decide a good fit for tall women versus short or medium women. Armhole and slacks width from crotch to knee were important parts to decide a good fit for short women. The study results should be applied to clothing design (or pattern making) in order to upgrade clothing fit and satisfaction for each stature group.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.607-613
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• 2012

This study develops a Hanbok Jeogori pattern for middle-aged women with a 3D virtual-twin and virtual-garment simulation system. The including criteria for subjects in this study was a focus on women in their 50s, and a total of 345 females satisfying them were enrolled for 3D virtual model. Comparative Jeogori pattern, Baik & Choi's(2004) pattern, was selected for the development of Jeogori pattern. The results were: first, a new Jeogori pattern considerate of middle-aged women was developed. The basic numerical formula were: Front and back bust girth B/4+1.5, armhole depth B/4, sleeve width B/4, goedae width B/10-1.5 and git width 5.5. Second, according to the results of the new Jeogori patterns appearance evaluation, the new Jeogori pattern scored higher than the existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, this confirmed that the new Jeogori pattern is appropriate for middle-aged women. Virtual models of production through data from 3D body scan, pattern draft, and virtual garment digital program were applied to a prototypic design method to enhance the fitness of ready-made Hanbok garments. This study serves as important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D Virtual Garment Simulation System with 2D patterns and for the future 3D Pattern Production Program development of Hanbok patterns.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.621-634
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• 2012

With comparative analysis of running-type brassieres on the market about suitability for middle-aged women, this study is to provide basic data of running-type brassieres' pattern which is highly suitable. In the pursuit of this purpose, this study carried out wearing experiment targeting 3 middle-aged women with normal body shape which is 85B of chest circumference. The result is as follows. The significant difference was recognized in the breast. The products were rated in order of C>A>B>D, E, F, G>H by the observers, and C>B>D>A>F>E=G>H by the subjects. The significant difference was recognized in the armhole area. The products were ranked in the order of C, D>B, G, E>A, F, H by the observes and D, C>B>G>F>A>H by the subjects. The significant difference was also recognized in 6 categories(14~19) for the torso. According to the overall average values, the products were rated in the order of B, C, D>A, D, F, G by the observers and B=D>C>H>F>G>A>E by the subjects. The overall evaluation exhibited the significant difference. The products were ranked in the order of D>C>E>B>H>A>G>F by both observers and subjects. Therefore it was confirmed that the product D was appropriate in general. To conclude of comparative analysis about 8 kinds of running-type brassieres on the market, the average values of the product C and D in all categories had high marks for each category. The product C was comfortable and capable of covering the breast well, however, a gap was formed in outside-up part. The product D, made from lacy fabric, was very comfortable and well-fitted but there was inconsistency between the mold-cup and the breast shape.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.245-254
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to develop uniform pattern of obese junior-high school girls by using the virtual twin and 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new uniform pattern considered obese junior-high school girls was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows; bust girth=B/2+2.5, armhole depth=B/4, front waist girth=W/4+1.8, back waist girth=W/4+1, front hip girth=H/4+1, back hip girth=H/4+1, chest width=chest width+1.5, back width=back width+1 and back neck width 8cm. Second, according to the results of the new uniform pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new uniform pattern is appropriate for the obese junior-high school girls. Also, new uniform pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length of bust, waist, abdomen and hip. Virtual models production through 3D body scan data, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to prototypic design method so as to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D pattern production program development.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.35-49
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• 2016

Dopo was the clothing of the Joseon period, which had a strong value of Confucianism. Apart from the kings and princes, government officers and Confucian literati wore Dopo as their official clothing and the uniform. The basic form of Dopo had the straight collar similar to Jikryeong. The difference is the shape of a Mu, which was fixed inside or on the back section along the side line of the front section and made two flaps on the back section. The clothing found in the tombs of Bae Cheonjo (1532~?) are from the mid-16th century to the early 17th century with the clothing style of the early Joseon period. The outer collar of all clothing was the shawl collar except for the Sibok and the inner collar was sewn to this. Two items had square tray collars, which were folded in half and sewn inside in half. The sleeve had a straight inseam from the armhole and its end around the wrist was round and wide. The carp-shaped inseam of the sleeve and wide sleeve indicated a change of sleeve shape. The shapes of the collars and the wide overlapped section of the dual collars demonstrated the shapes of the initial outer robes. The man's outer coats with wide sleeves were mostly cotton-quilted clothing. As described above, this paper examines the basic shapes of outer robes including Sibok, Jikryeong and man's outer coats on the basis of the clothing and artifacts from the tomb of Bae Cheonjo (1532~?) and examined the shapes, composition and features of Dopo. This paper aims to improve awareness of the wisdom and spirit of ancestors in life hidden in the sewing of the three Dopo items and on the importance of historical research.