• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.23-25
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• 2010

Archaeological evidence shows that cotton fibres of the genus Gossypium were first used for textile production at Mehrgarh, Pakistan in the Neolithic period ($6^{th}$ millenium BC). Eventually the cotton plant and textiles found their way to Egypt and through there, to Greece. However, the chronological origins of the cultivation and/or use of cotton fibres in textile production in ancient Greece are ambiguous. The main sources of information are ancient written texts and excavated textile finds. Both indicate that the introduction of cotton in Greece can be placed in the mid-first millenium BC. However, it is not clear whether the cultivation of the plant and consequently the production of cotton textiles was established in that period or whether another cotton species was produced and used locally in Greece or whether isolated examples of cotton textiles had been imported in Greece before the cotton plant. A more comprehensive analytical study of surviving textile finds coupled with archaeological research for plant production and cultivation would provide the answer to these questions.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.91-116
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• 2021

India has had a rich and diverse textile tradition since the 3rd millennium BCE. The origin of Indian textiles can be traced back to the Harappan period. Owing to the hot and humid climate in most parts of India, cotton has remained India's favourite choice of fabric for normal use. Thus, India is supposed to be the first nation to have grown, woven, and patterned cotton fabrics. Moreover, India is one of the leading cotton-growing countries in the world. The earliest occurrence of cotton thread in India is roughly datable to 4000 BCE and of dyed fabrics to about 2500 BCE. Large numbers of needles and spindle-whorls found in Harappa and other early historic sites in India reveal the prosperous state of textile production and its trade in the early period. The textile producers used a wide range of skills to process raw materials and make regionally idiosyncratic dyes, weaves, prints, and embroideries. Additionally, the silk from wild indigenous forms of silkworms was known in the Indian sub-continent roughly contemporary with the earliest clear archaeological evidence for silk in China. The analysis of thread fragments found inside a copper bangle and ornament from Harappa and steatite beads from Chanhu-daro, have yielded silk fibers dating to 2500-2000 BCE. Apart from other products, cotton and silk textiles were important export materials from India right from the Harappan period. Actually, the sea-borne trade had played an important role in the economic growth and prosperity of the Harappan civilization. Several ancient seaports in the entire coastline of India played a vital role in the maritime trade during the Harappan period and cotton and silk textiles of Indian origin have been found in various countries. The contemporary writings and epigraphy have also attested to the vast maritime trade network of India and the export of textile materials. The paper discusses in detail the origin and development of cotton and silk textile production in India through the ages and its role in maritime trade networks.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권11호
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• pp.1350-1357
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• 2003

This research was aimed to establish the standard extraction and analytical procedures for examining the chromophoric substance in madder root with the ultimate goal of identifying the dyes in badly faded textiles of archaeological origin. The separation temperature of gas chromatography, pH and other extraction conditions were tested. The results were as follows: The suitable separation temperature for the GC cappillary column was 50∼305$^{\circ}C$, and methanol was a good GC solvent for both standard alizarin and madder extraction. The best extraction of madder was achieved by 90 min soaking in room temperature followed by filtration and the actual heat extraction procedure. The best pH for extracting alizarin was pH 3 and above pH 5 alizarin was not detectible. Only alizarin and no purpurin was found in the extraction of the currently used madder plant.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제30권4호
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• pp.329-334
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• 2014

고대 섬유의 과학적 분석은 그 시대에 사용된 재료의 특성 및 각 지역의 직물문화, 제직기술 등을 파악할 수 있는 중요한 자료를 제공한다. 또한 수침 고목재의 수종분석은 보존처리 방법의 설정뿐만 아니라 당시의 수목환경, 목제품의 종류에 따라 선호되던 수종, 외래수종을 통한 당시의 교역 교류 등의 정보를 확인할 수 있는 과학적인 분석방법이다. 충남 연기군 동면 합강리 유적에서 청동합 내 부장상태로 출토된 직물류와 목제 빗에 대하여 섬유 및 수종의 종류를 분석한 결과 직물1과 직물3은 쐐기풀과(Urticaceae)의 저마(Boehmeria nivea ; Ramie), 직물2는 아욱과(Malvaceae)의 면(Gossypium herbaceum), 목제 빗은 자작나무과(Betulaceae) 자작나무속(Betula spp.)으로 식별되었다. 이번 연구 결과는 향후 고대 섬유 및 수종을 확인하여 비교 연구하는데 도움이 될 것으로 기대된다.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제35권1호
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• pp.19-31
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• 2019

To study the cleaning effects and post-treatment stability assessment of various methods of cleaning textiles with metal thread, six naturally-soiled historical textiles with metal thread were investigated at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Prior to the cleaning of fabricated gold, silver, and copper thread that had been glued onto a paper substrate, the artificial deterioration was carried out in a controlled environment with light(UV and daylight), and temperature and humidity factors which would weaken and damage the samples. A synthetic soil mixture was applied to the samples to imitate soil found on the historic and archaeological textiles with metal thread; the cleaning effect and post-treatment assessment were investigated by use of three textile cleaning methods: mechanical cleaning, wet cleaning, and solvent cleaning. While investigating the naturally-soiled textiles with metal thread, it was determined that the soil colors and sizes of contaminating particles of each textile were different due to the diversity of original environmental factors and conditions. After cleaning with kneaded rubber, Stoddard solvent, n-decane or n-hexane, a bright, clean effect was apparent. Kneaded rubber was successful in picking up both large and small particles, but its stickiness caused some of the metal leaf to peel off. Stoddard solvent produced a good cleaning effect, but after use of n-hexane and n-decane in the cleaning process, a white layer of residue remained on the textile's surface. Wet cleaning was not effective and the rapid humidity changes between wet and dry conditions caused the edges of the paper substrate to lose their original shape.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.117-140
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• 2021

At the beginning of the Roman imperial period, moralizing authors criticized a material from the East that quickly gained popularity among the elites: silk. During Late Antiquity, the trade, production, and use of purple-dyed silks increasingly became the privilege of the emperors. While literature, court poetry, and laws give insights into the discourses surrounding silk, they are rather unspecific concerning silk qualities. This contribution analyzes the scattered descriptions of silks in Greek and Latin texts in a diachronic perspective, with a focus on the 1^st cent. BCE to the 4th cent. CE, paying particular attention to the terminology, products, origins, and qualities of silk. The aim is to build a framework for comparisons with archaeological silk finds and other textile terminologies along the Silk Roads. Here, the silk finds from the oasis city of Palmyra/Tadmor in modern-day Syria, dating from the 1st cent. BCE to the 2nd cent. CE, will be used as a case study for the early imperial period. Taking these silk finds as a comparison, it will be shown that Greek and Latin terminology does not match the variety of silks known in the Mediterranean. Rather, linguistic differentiations focus on the forms in which silk reached the Mediterranean, as skeins, yarns, and fabrics, as well as on the different kinds of silks that were produced in the West, namely pure silk and half-silken fabrics, checkered "scutlata" damasks, purple-dyed, and gold-embellished silks. In contrast, silks from the East were subsumed under the term for "silks from the silk people" or simply "silks". Moreover, ancient authors do not use the terms in the same way. These findings show the limitations of Western silk terminology and the importance of combining archaeological and written sources.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제41권1호
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• pp.127-141
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• 2008

본 고는 일찍이 실크로드를 중심으로 시작된 중국의 "방직고고"라는 새로운 학문의 성립과 발달과정을 소개하는 글이다. 20세기 근대 고고학의 발전에 따라 새롭게 형성된 방직고고는 발굴과정 중에 발견되는 방직품 방직공구 방직과 관련된 도상 등을 대상으로 하는 연구로서, 고고학 자연과학 직물학 등의 전문지식을 필요로 한다. 현전하는 여러 종류의 유물 중에서 직물은 다루기가 가장 난감한 재질의 한 종류로, 온전하게 출토되는 경우는 많지 않다. 그러나 모순적으로 초기 고고학자들의 관심을 집중시킨 것은 실크로드 발굴이었고, 발굴 과정의 중심에는 수천 년 전의 각종 실크와 자수품들이 있었다. 아직도 중국 전역에서는 크고 작은 발굴과정에서 수많은 직물 유물들이 출토되며, 그 결과 중국의 직물 연구는 이미 세계적인 수준에 도달하였다. 그에 비해 우리나라에서는 고대의 직물유물이 발견된 사례가 적고, 직물 조각에 불과하여 실증적인 연구에 있어 어려움이 많았다. 또한 직물자료의 중요성에 대한 인식 부족으로 천마총, 무령왕릉과 같은 중요발굴의 직물유물 조차 30여년 만에 심층연구가 이루어질 만큼 국내 고대 직물 연구는 아직도 미진한 단계라고 볼 수 있다. 이에 본 고를 통해 실크로드의 고고학적 직물의 발굴기를 소개하고, 국내 출토 직물 연구의 가능성을 확인하고자 한다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.745-755
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to observe school education system, higher education, and fashion education in Germany to find a good model for an desirable future education to lead a creative students in Korea, thereby reshaping curriculum. We also analysed the curriculum of the fashion design offered in Hochschule Pforzheim and Berlin University of Art. We used secondary data collection by literature reviews of articles and web sites on the internet. Results of this study are as follows: German school and education system oriented with differentiation even though there are variety of them. Students can select their education system, considering work field and their own life & humanities. Various fashion education institutions were found to have their own education concept to enhance creativity with different system. Our results of analysis of the fashion design program of Hochschule Pforzheim and Berlin University of Art show their creativity education in their curriculums with module basis. Two universities have a differentiate education direction for the same aim to do creative design study and research. We realized that students learn and get the knowledge and apply to the field with a long term internship, communication skill and presentation development courses. Project based modules enable students to be creative, and active human. Strong design basis, and humanities disciplines will support people to creative design works. These two universities offer a good model of program to build up self education drive, academic and practical ways of training, and project based, internship, etc.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.424-437
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• 2016

The study will analyze the costumes of the Scythians tribes who lived in the region of Altai in the 3-5 century BC. The purpose of this study is to prepare new material to re-examine the theory, which claims that the origin of the circular motives of korean costumes are to be found in the typology of the Scythian costumes. In this study, we analyzed the most recent reports of archaeological excavation about the unearthed clothes in the Pazyryk region and compared its information with european literature. The conclusion of this study is as follows: The jackets of the Pazyryk region are classified in two types, (1) opened jacket with narrow sleeve and (2) enclosed jacket with narrow sleeve. Trousers were separated by (1) narrow and (2) extreme wide trousers. The enclosed jacket of tunic form and extreme wide trousers are newly excavated. It proves, there was a vivid exchange between the Scythians and their neighboring cultures. It can be noted, that there existed a diverse Scythian culture of costumes, besides the commonly known clothing culture of the "Pazyryk-rider". Based upon the results of the previous research, it can be said that the opened jacket with narrow sleeve and narrow trousers are costume typologies which are common for all Scythian tribes of the whole Eurasian region. The hem of the edge of jacket is proven to be a connective element, which is common to all Scythian tribes.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.877-887
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• 2011

The purpose of Sassanian dynasty was to succeed the civilization of Achaemenid dynasty but it shows vestiges of Parthian civilization in many ways. This study is an attempt to take a look at Sassanian civilization through analyzing these rock reliefs since these features are shown on the rock relief of Ardashir I in early Sassanian Iran. The way carried out this study was first, to collect and search documentary data to establish the theoretical background, and collect positive data by exploring this region and then we comparatively analyzed the two data in general and the result is the following: The form of costume is different according to the person's status. In the early period of Ardashir I the costume style of the royals is reflected by clothes such as tunic, trousers in parthian style. However, trousers do not have vertical pleats which are commonly shown in the case of parthian trousers. It assumed that after the early period of Ardashir I, Sassanians formed their own styles. The form of cap is also different according to the person's status. Ardashir I and the Ahura mazda god put on crown and Korymbos which symbolized the sovereign power. Except the king and the god, the prince and the king's vassal put on high caps called Kolah. Diadem which symbolized sovereign power of king was used by the king, the god and the crown prince. There are two kinds of diadem. The first form has vertical pleats and the other does not have pleats. This form became different depending on the social position. The form of hairstyle is generally thick curly hair which goes down until the shoulder. There is no difference in their hairstyle in terms of the social position. The beard style is generally in the form of scoop. There is also no difference in terms of the person's status.