• Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.302-309
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• 2020

The objective of this study was to optimize the condition for induction and proliferation of callus from Rhus chinensis Mill. and investigate the skin-brightening effect of Rhus chinensis callus (RCC). It was confirmed that the most proper plant growth regulator (PGR) for callus induction is 1.0 mg/L of 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4-D). The most optimal condition of PGR, medium and additives for callus proliferation were 2,4-D (1.0 mg/L), MS medium and citric acid, respectively. Inhibitory activities of tyrosinase were higher at 50 and 100 ㎍/mL of RCC extracts (41.86 and 75.56%, respectively) than arbutin (27.32%). As the results of measuring melanin inhibition in B16F1 melanocyte and B16F10 melanoma cell, RCC extracts increased its inhibitory activities concentration-dependently, and were found to have higher whitening effect than arbutin at a concentration of 100 ㎍/mL. Therefore, it is suggested that RCC can be used as an effective material for skin-brightening cosmetics.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.22 no.7
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• pp.889-896
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• 2012

Melanin synthesis is catalyzed by tyrosinase. To investigate the whitening effect of Hizikia fusiformis, fractions from ethanol extract of H. fusiformis were prepared by a systematic fractionation procedure with solvents such as methanol, hexane, butanol, and $H_2O$. The ethanol extract and its fractions were then subjected to evaluate the inhibitory effects on the tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis in murine B16F10 melanoma cells. The ethanol extract and aqueous fraction exhibited a whitening effect with no cytotoxicity. The ethanol extract showed the highest whitening effect among the samples. The inhibitory effect of $100{\mu}g/ml$ of ethanol extract was higher than that of $10{\mu}g/ml$ of arbutin, but it was lower than that of $10{\mu}g/ml$ of kojic acid. Furthermore, the inhibitory effects of $100{\mu}g/ml$ of methanol, hexane, butanol, and aqueous fractions were similar to those of $10{\mu}g/ml$ of arbutin. The antioxidant activities were examined by comparing the results with that of ascorbic acid as a positive control. The ethanol extract and aqueous fraction showed relatively higher DPPH radical-scavenging activities compared with the other samples. Furthermore, $500{\mu}g/ml$ of ethanol extract and aqueous fraction diminished LPS-induced iNOS expression to 82 and 80%, respectively. These results suggest that ethanol extract and aqueous fraction of H. fusiformis could be used as cosmetic ingredients for whitening and skin protection effects.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.399-408
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• 2019

Arbutin, which is used as a whitening ingredient, can produce hydroquinone, known as causing skin disease and carcinogen. Preservatives are essential to prevent microbial contamination during long-term storage and use of cosmetics, but safety issues such as toxicity and skin irritation are being raised. This study was conducted to determine hydroquinone and 21 preservatives levels in 40 arbutin-containing whitening functional cosmetics sold on-line and off-line. Result showed that 9 products contained hydroquinone. The concentrations in 7 products were ranged from 0.3 to 0.9 ppm, which were within the maximum allowed amount established by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety. However, 2 products were 8.4 and 50.5 ppm and exceeded the allowed amount. Preservatives were detected 20 products. Detected items and ranges were phenoxy ethanol 0.1 ~ 0.7% (N = 15), Methyl paraben 0.19 ~ 0.21% (N = 2), Chlorphenesin 0.13% (N = 1), chlorhexidine 0.006% (N = 1), Propyl paraben 0.06% (N = 1), which were within maximum allowed amount established by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety. Also, in cases of functional cosmetics the phrase "functional cosmetics" should be expressed on the primary or secondary package of cosmetics by cosmetics act. However, 1 product did not state the phrase as functional cosmetics. This study suggest that preservatives were safely managed. However, hydroquinone in hydroquinone-detected products could be produced by the decomposition of arbutin. Thus, further studies on the decomposition of arbutin are required to improve the quality control of the cosmetics.

• The Journal of Korean Medicine Ophthalmology and Otolaryngology and Dermatology
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.36-46
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• 2009

Objective : Recently, the demands for the effective and safe depigmentating and anti-aging agents of the skin have increased due to the medical, pharmaceutical and cosmetic reasons. The aim of this study is to search new materials from the traditional herbal medicines which inhibit the aging process of skin in vitro. Methods : herbal medicines(80% ethanol or water extracts) were screened for their inhibitory activities against elastase. Results : Rheum undulatum (final concentrstion 1 mg/ml) appeared over 30% of inhibition of elastase activity. so we are investigated anti wrinkle effects of Rheum undulatum look through MMP-1 inhibition activity. also Extracts of Rheum undulatum showed higher anti tyrosinase activity than arbutin (final concentration 1 mg/ml). Conclusion : These results suggest that herbal medicines could be strong potential sources of inhibition of anti-aging and whitening effects for the skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.115-121
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• 1997

To identify inhibitors of melanogenesis, we compared the effects of 5 compounds on mushroom tyrosinase, human melanocytic tyrosinase activity and melanin content. The cytotoxicyty of the components were also tested on cultured human melanoctes. Kojic acid showed marked inhibitory effect both on mushroom and human tyrosinase activity. This action of kijic acid is stronger than that of ascorbic acid. Arbutin inhibited human tyrosinase activity of cultured melanocytes although it had slightly inhibitory effect on mushroom tyrosinase activity. Azelaic acid had no effect on human tyrosinase activity. Melanin production was inhibited significantly by kojic acid and tranexamic acid. MTT assay showed that all of the compounds were non-cytotoxic to melanocytes at the concentrations tested. These results suggest that the effect of kojic acid on cultured meanocytes involve inhibition of tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis without affection the cell number.

• Bulletin of the Korean Chemical Society
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• v.33 no.9
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• pp.3004-3008
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• 2012

Small molecule conjugated peptides were prepared by solid-phase synthesis as potential novel whitening agents, and their melanogenesis inhibitory activities were investigated. The conjugated small molecules were well-known materials as tyrosinase inhibitors, and peptides were selected from the sequences that are known to antagonize melanocortin receptor 1 (MC1R). Most of small molecules-peptide conjugates showed superior melanin inhibition activity to kojic acid and arbutin. Among these, almost all compounds have -AR- sequence. From this study, we concluded that the small molecule conjugated peptides containing -AR- sequence have melanogenesis inhibitory activities and have potential to be used as novel whitening agents.

• Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.174-178
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• 2008

Melanin is a polymer of phenol which produces hyperpigmentation in the skin. Melanin synthesis is catalyzed by the enzyme tyrosinase. To investigate the whitening activity of the fractions from the ethanol extract of Enteromorpha linza, we studied the inhibitory effect on the tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis in the B16/F1 melanoma cells. The inhibition ratio of tyrosinase activity of ethylacetate fraction from E. linza was as strong as that of kojic acid, a positive control. Also, the melanin production was significantly inhibited by the ethylacetate fraction in a dose dependent manner. The ethylacetate fraction showed the highest activity in the fractions and as strong activity as that of arbutin, a positive control. From these results, we suggest that the E. linza extract might be able to apply to cosmetic and medical fields.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.99-109
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• 2001

Novel glucoconjugates phenolic moiety, 3-(methoxycarbonyl)-4-(hydroxyphenyl)-$\beta$-D-glucopyranoside(4), 3-(methoxyacetyl)-4-(hydroxyphenyl)-$\beta$-D-glucopyranoside(7), 4-(hydroxyphenyl)-$\beta$-D-ribofuranoside(11), were synthesized. In order to investigate their depigmentation effect, inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase and inhibitory activity of melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cell were evaluated in vitro. Compound 11 showed 92.0$\mu\textrm{g}$/㎖ of tyrosinase inhibitory activity whereas compound 4 and 7 showed very low activity not less than 300$\mu\textrm{g}$/㎖. Inhibitory activities of melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cell of compound 4, 7, and 11 were 8.7, 15.1, and 36.0%, respectively, at the concentration of 100$\mu\textrm{g}$/㎖. Inhibitory activity of compound 11 was much higher than that of arbutin at the same concentration.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.25 no.4 s.34
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• pp.133-143
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• 1999

To identify inhibitory effect of Bamboo extract on melanogenesis, the effect was compared with arbutin, ascorbic acid, hydroquinone, and kojic acid on the melanin biosynthesis in B16 mouse melanoma cells and cultured human melanocytes. The cell viability of the agent was tested on cultured human melanocytes. We also examined its. free radical scavenging activity on 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl(DPPH). Bamboo extract showed considerable effect against melanin production and did not reduce cell viability at the concentration tested. It also showed potent free radical scavenging activity.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Toxicology Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.80-80
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• 2003

The use of skin whitening agents have been recently increased in various kinds of cosmetic products, although there were reports that whitening agents might cause allergic contact dermatitis. A murine local lymph node assay (LLNA) has been developed as an alternative to guinea pigs for contact sensitization potential. This study was carried out to investigate the skin sensitization potential of three whitening agents, kojic acid, arbutin, azelaic acid, by LLNA using a non-radioistopic endpoint.(omitted)