• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.12 s.159
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• pp.1690-1696
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to provide the basic data useful in designing apparel patterns for aged abdominal obese women. The body measurements of 318 women were taken at random, whose ages were over 60 and fields of action were colleges, sports centers, or business sites in Seoul and the neighboring districts. A total of 33 features in the upper body and lower body were used fer the anthropometric measurement and analysis using anthropometry. The collected measurement data were processed statistically using the SPSS 12.0 program for technical statistical analysis, t-test, frequency analysis, correlation analysis. The results of the study are as follows. 1. Subjects were classified into two groups as a result of analysis for measurement data. It was revealed that 251(about 79 percent) women of total subjects(n=318) have a characteristic of abdominal obese body type and elderly women of these group usually had big abdomen rather than hip. The criteria of abdominal obesity based on waist-hip ratio, WHR(=0.85). 2. Aged abdominal obese women have shown much larger size in most body measurements except items of some vertical length, such as bust ponit-bust point, font interscye, back interscye with circumference and depth of armscye, bust, waist, abdomen and hip while showing no difference in height, biacrominal breadth, hip width, neck shoulder point to breast point, crotch length. 3. Vervaeck index(=100.1) and Rohrer index(=1.7) indicated that the abdominal obese women were fat in overall body. And aspect ratio of waist(=0.86), abdomen(=0.92) and hip(=0.75) also appeared high that the shape of cross sections in those regions was similar to a figure of circle 4. In view of the correlation coefficient between hip circumference and the rest measurement items, and between hip circumference inclusively of the abdomen protrusion and the rest measurement items, there were found some differences for each group. In case of Group (abdominal obese group), the former is smaller than the other. 5. In case of Abdominal obese women, hip circumference inclusively of the abdomen protrusion is more mutually related to the rest items related to make apparel pattern as waist circumference, depth of armscye and so on than what hip circumference is. This result indicated which must be considered hip circumference inclusively of the abdomen protrusion to make apparel patterns for abdominal obese women unlike women of common body types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.9
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• pp.1386-1397
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• 2009

This study investigates costumes for ball jointed dolls under the theme of Bok-yo(服妖): The Lady in Early-middle Joseon with relic costumes as a reference. The Bok-yo style was spread universally for Joseon women in the $15^{th}-16^{th}$ centuries, but it is an uncommon theme in the area of media and traditional costume for dolls. Bok-yo (curious outfit), consisted of a Dang-jeogori with a golden brocade in the front bottom, manlike Jang-ot, wide Chima, and Jang-ot was dressed between Chima and the Dang-jeogori. To make correct patterns and approvals for idle bodies of female ball-jointed dolls, darts are added in the front vertical line and center back of the golden brocade Dan-jeogori for Joseon ladies. The pattern of the golden brocade Chima is made as a trapezoid shape for the thin waist of a doll, and the length of a deep-greened silk gauze The Jang-ot increased because of the length of the doll's legs. In addition, the kinds of investigated accessories, hair, traditional underwear for dolls are limited. Suggested is a closer cooperation between the investigated costume designers, doll companies, and accessory makers for the future market of ball jointed dolls.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.31-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes of modern Korean men's fashion from the 1960s to the 1990s by reviewing fashion magazine advertisements and pictorials. For theoretical study, the characteristics and the importance of apparel advertisements and the changes of modern Korean men's fashion trend were reviewed. On the basis of the theoretical investigation, this study analyzed 932 pictorials from Joongang Magazine, Shin Dong-A, Bokjangwolbo, Meot, Men's Life, WWD, and S.F.F.A's photograph album, published from 1962 to 1998. Content analysis method was used to analyze the content of magazines and pictorials. The 932 samples are classified into apparel types, silhouette, pattern, color, type of breasts, shape of collar, number of button, type of inner wear. Frequency and $x^2$-test were conducted using a SAS statistics package to analyse the data. The results were as follows. The two-piece style prevailed in men's wear during the 60s, 70s, and 90s, while separate style prevailed during the 80s. H silhouette was the most popular during the 60s, 70s and 90s, however, X silhouette dominated the 70s. For patterns, solids were most frequently used throughout the whole 4 decades. In colors, gray was most frequently used during the 60s, and multi color was most frequently used during the 70s, 80s, and 90s. Throughout the whole decades, single breast, tailored collar, two buttons, and dress shirts were the most prevalent styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.2
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• pp.144-156
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• 2015

This research aims to develop textile patterns using mythical motives based on Buldoje in the Jeju myth. this textile design is not only decoration effect by filling the space, but also plays the original role of a pattern by expressing its symbolic meaning. The research methods are as follows: 1) Using integral analysis on materials related to the myth of Jeju and Gime used in Buldoje Gut, where Halmangbonpuli story is performed to set formative elements for textile design and their meanings; 2) Designing motive by composing formative elements; 3) Coloring properly; and 4) Layout motives. Adobe CS5 (Photoshop, Illustrator) and TexPro, a design CAD program, were used for textile design. Motives were combined in a various ways. Two-directional, four-directional, set, rotating, toss layout techniques, which are frequently used in apparel design and able to reduce cloth use, were used in developing patterns. Coloring methods including tone-in-tone and Faux camaieu were used to deliver coherence and soft effects. Developed textile design symbolizes the desire for the conception of a child, birth, and health, so it is made on baby clothes. In doing so, the plan for development of a fashion-cultural product applying Jeju myth symbol is suggested.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.88-98
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• 2005

This study focuses on the needs at both consumers and manufacturers. It aims to find ways for consumers to purchase outfits that would fit their particular body type and preferences at reasonable prices, choose raw materials and style at garments, and virtually try them on. In addition, the study is designed to help apparel manufacturers identity customers' changing needs, reduce inventories, manage information on customers' body type in a digitalized form, and eventually contribute to promoting electronic commerce. Based on nine basic patterns that tit each subject, 108 virtual garments are created by adjusting the size of the patterns (9 subjects $\times$ 4 body parts $\times$ 3 patterns = 108 outfits). In order to determine fitting preferences for each body part and find optimized conditions, cross-tabulation analysis including $X^2$ and frequency analysis were performed to measure the appearance rate. A style of virtual garment, which is minus 2cm from chest size was chosen as the most appropriate pattern to the baseline location of front the chest. For the waist parts, the C style as an appropriate virtual garment to front and back view. In the front, lateral and back view, a style was chosen in the response to the sleeve-bodice combinations, the ease amount of armhole area, the armhole depth and the loosening of tightening or armhole line.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.123-134
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• 2012

As a mirror of its time, fashion exactly reflects the trend of today' s society. In addition, as a tool to satisfy our desire and express images, it brings diverse image changes in people's minds. This kind of pattern is frequently found in wedding images, especially in wedding dresses. When it comes to a wedding dress, in general, we often think of a modest and pure-white one. In modem times, however, people prefer a differentiated image which reflects their personality and ego. In other words, it is an important means of expressing their own personality by focusing on their active and personal aspects and getting away from the passive, stable and formative aspects in the past. These days, a combination of narcissism and eroticism is found on wedding dresses. This kind of trend has been expressed into romanticism. In terms of the latest sensitive wedding dress trend, unique and creative couture wedding dresses have appeared. Therefore, this study has classified this kind of trend into two categories; Formative and Design aspects. According to an analysis on the formative and design aspects of romanticism in wedding dresses, diverse characteristics were observed in shape, color, material and ornament in the Formative Aspect. In terms of design, the characteristics of sensuality, ornament, exoticism and compromise were observed.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.445-457
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• 2008

Recently as the population of the disabled increased, interest and understanding toward them have deepened and the importance of universal design has risen. The purpose of this study is to understand the 3-dimensional body figure of the disabled by collecting a plaster figure using plaster dressing method and developing an individual nude body using FRP, with one female wheelchair user as the subject. The results of this study are as follows: First, 3-dimensional shape grasp about the figure of the obstacle person as is. Second, developing of individual nude body. Third, the presentation of the practical use idea of individual nude body. Last is the security of the basic document about the universal design. Uses the individual nude body in future and under producing boil a basic pattern and disabled person clothing. This work was supported by the Korea Research Foundation Grant funded by the Korea Government (MOEHRD, Basic Research Promotion Fund) (KRF-2005-B00022)."

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.69-89
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• 2024

In the era of globalization, cultural appropriation, stemming from the interaction and clash of diverse cultures, remains inadequately defined, leading to controversy in many designs. This study aims to provide a theoretical basis for understanding cultural appropriation by comparing similar concepts and examining specific cases. It proposes methods for the rational use of traditional cultures in apparel to minimize controversy. Firstly, the study investigates the concept of cultural appropriation by exploring differences among related terms. Secondly, it examines instances of cultural appropriation in fashion through form, color, pattern, and material, drawing from papers and Google searches over the past decade. Thirdly, it categorizes representative cases by domestic and foreign fashion brands, analyzing the underlying reasons. The goal is to establish a theoretical foundation for developing culturally sensitive clothing products. Based on the findings, several measures are proposed: understanding and respecting cultural backgrounds through in-depth research on the history and significance of elements; collaborating with cultural groups and consulting experts for feedback; explaining the source of design inspiration to help consumers understand the cultural elements' meanings; avoiding the reinforcement of stereotypes and respecting cultural diversity and complexity; respecting intellectual property and ensuring moral and legal appropriateness; and learning from case studies of other designers' and brands' successes and failures.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.95-104
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• 2018

This study classified the figurative features of the raglan sleeves presented in the Spring and Summer Collections and Fall and Winter Collections abroad in 2010 and 2018 and analyzed the production methods and patterns of the classified raglan sleeves. The analysis results are described below. The raglan sleeves in the latest fashion trends were classified into Type H, Type A, Type O and Type Y per shape. The production features of raglan sleeves in the latest fashion trends included the cutting lines in various shapes, a flounce that made shoulders look wider, and decorations such as gathers, studs, punching, slits, pleats and tucks. The raglan sleeve design was classified into Yoke Raglan, Armhole Princess Raglan, Semi Raglan, Gathered Raglan, Pleats Raglan, Cowl Raglan, Origami Raglan, Circular Curved Raglan, Capes Raglan and Constructive Design Raglan and the patterns per design were presented. For creative and experimental clothing by the analysis of the features of raglan sleeve structure, a variety of configuration methods need to be developed and implemented. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles as the basis for further study on the configuration methods of raglan sleeves. This study will be used in various ways as education materials on sleeve patterns in the educational field. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of raglan sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.15-26
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designing and making of brassiere with the consideration of the physiological nature of man. Each of 3/4-cup wired upward-support-type Mold Bra of 75 size with basic pad made at three representative domestic companies (A, B and C Company) was selected for analysis of pattern and components. The following is the result of this study. 1. That Company A's bra had the highest cup, relatively narrow width, the widest front-center and the highest front center at front pad. That of Company B had relatively short wing over the base and much difference at the height of cup depending on the presence of wire. That of Company C had low and wide cup, the widest bust span and the front center width, the front center height of front pad, the base length of front pad and the length of wings were observed to be of the figures between those of Company A and B. 2. The Bra of Company A had the biggest front center angle of $6^{\circ}$, while that of Company C had the biggest wing angle of $18^{\circ}$. The Bra of Company B showed the biggest difference of patterns depending on the presence of wire. Those of Company A and C showed very similar shape when wire was inserted. 3. The order of making brassiere is following: making of exterior mold cup${\rightarrow}$ sewing exterior cup and circumference of mold${\rightarrow}$ sewing base and wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to base${\rightarrow}$ sewing cup and main pad${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to upper sides and upper part of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing wire-tape to interior base of cup${\rightarrow}$ inserting of wire inside wire-tape${\rightarrow}$ sewing hook & eye on the back of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing shoulder string.