• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.821-829
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• 2019

This study was conducted to evaluate the applicability of the extracts from nipa palm, molokhia, and finger root in functional cosmetics as a natural active ingredient. The extracts were obtained through the processes of heating under reflux with ethanol, filtration, concentration, and freeze-drying. UV absorption and blocking effects of the extracts were examined by using the UV-vis spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere. Antioxidant activity and its stability between the extracts were compared using the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging assay. Also, total polyphenol content in the extracts was determined quantitatively using the Folin-Ciocalteu reagent, with gallic acid as the standard. Antibacterial activity of the extracts was investigated by the disc diffusion test against Staphylococcus aureus (gram-positive) and Escherichia coli (gram-negative). Finally, collagenase inhibitor assay was performed to examine the anti-wrinkle effect of the extracts. From the results of this study, the extract of nipa palm showed the potential for use in cosmetics as an antioxidant and anti-wrinkle agent, and the extract of finger root as a sunscreen and antibacterial agent.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.85-94
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• 2007

The objective of this study is to prepare a stable delivery systems containing polyethoxylated retinamide(PERA) - derivatives of retinoic acid, effective anti-wrinkle and anti-acne agent. Cubic liquid crystalline phase gel (CLCPG) and cubosomes containing various concentrations of PERA were prepared to investigate the physicochemical properties. Furthermore, stability and transdermal absorption efficacy of the CLCPG containing PERA were investigated in comparison with oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions which are predominantly used as a topical formulation. CLCPG increase the stability of PERA in comparison with O/W emulsion. For tropical application, CLCPG containing PERA shows higher moisturizing effect than that of O/W emulsion. In skin permeation test, CLCPG shows higher PERA deposit on epidermis. With its specific physicochemical property caused by the glyceryl oleate, CLCPG itself could be used for stabilizer of various actives and applied as an effective delivery system for topical application. Cubosome, nano-sized dispersed CLCPG, is also expected to be applied in a various field of industry like food, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.137-142
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• 2008

Echinacea purpurea, an indian traditional plant medicine has been widely used as herbal remedy for the treatment of disease such as colds or other infections. However, Echinacea purpurea extracts recently have been applied as a cosmetic ingredient for skin care. We artificially cultured Echinacea purpurea by using the bioreactor culture system for this study. We induced callus from Echinacea purpurea and separated adventitious roots, harvested and extracted after cultured in bioreactors. Previously, several studies have been reported on anti-oxidant and immuno-enhancing effects of Echinacea purpurea extract but other efficacies were not well known. In this study, we investigated the whitening, anti-wrinkle and anti-oxidant effects to know applicable value of tissue-cultured Echinacea purpurea adventitious roots extract(TCEPARE) as a cosmetic ingredient. TCEPARE did not show cytotoxicity until a concentration of 2% and showed the anti-oxidative effect in DPPH and NBT tests. Also, the extract decreased tyrosinase expression in a dose-dependent manner and inhibited melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cells. TCEPARE reduced protein levels of MMP-1, 2 secreted in culture medium or in cell lysates. From these results we suggest that TCEPARE has potential benefits applicable as to cosmetic ingredient for skin care products.

• KSBB Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.529-534
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• 2008

The reactive oxygen species generated by ultraviolet rays causes various types of cutaneous damage, such as lipid peroxidation and denaturation of the extra-cellular matrix. The accumulation of such damage contributes to skin aging, especially the formation of wrinkles. This study was carried out to develop functional cosmatic by using Oriental herb supercritical extracts (OHSE) for prevention of skin. Effects of OHSE on anti-oxidation, collagenase inhibition and collagen synthesis in normal human fibroblast were investigated. OHSE showed antioxidative activity as high as vitamin C, trolox and DL-penicillamine. Also OHSE showed promotive effect on collagen synthesis and inhibitory effect on collagenase activity. From this results, we conclude that OHSE may have the potential to be conveniently used as an additive in cosmetics for prevention and improvement of skin aging.

• KSBB Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.513-518
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• 2008

This paper described the extraction/purification of $\beta$-carotene from recombinant E.coli and evaluation of anti-wrinkle activity of purified $\beta$-carotene. No significant differences in extraction yields were observed when hexane or isobutyl acetate was used. However, extraction from wet-cell cake resulted in 2-fold higher amount of $\beta$-carotene than that from dry cells. Disruption of 5 g-wet cells by ultrasonic homogenizer, acetone dehydration, extraction with isobutyl acetate resulted in 36 mg of $\beta$-carotene corresponding to 61.2% of recovery. The formation and separation of $\beta$-carotene crystal improved the purity. 633 mg of $\beta$-carotene crystal with 93% purity was obtained from 223 g/L of wet-cell cake harvested from 2.5-L fed-batch culture broth. The cultures of normal human primary fibroblast were performed to investigate the effect of $\beta$-carotene on cytotoxicity as MTT assay and anti-wrinkle activity as collagen synthesis assays. $1.7{\mu}M$ of $\beta$-carotene was found to be optimal concentration at which 1.4-fold higher amount of collagen was synthesized than that in absence of $\beta$-carotene. This indicates that highly purified $\beta$-carotene can be obtained from recombinant E.coli by applying simple method with less toxic solvent and can be used in functional cosmetics as anti-wrinkle agent.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.604-609
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• 2012

Properties of fucoidan used for functional cosmetic ingredients and the effect of fucoidan molecular weight on the cosmetic functions were studied. Fucoidan was extracted from Undaria pinnatifida sporophylls and molecular weight (35~160 kDa) of fucoidan was controlled by contact glow discharge electrolysis (CGDE). To test possibility of fucoidan as a cosmetics material, tyrosinase inhibition property, water-holding property, elastase activity inhibition property and DPPH free radical scavenging property were measured. Water-holding property of fucoidan was higher than that of hyaruronic acid, which is known as the one of the best water-holding material. The water-holding strength of fucoidan slightly increase as molecular weight of fucoidan decrease. Elastase activity inhibition (anti wrinkle effect) of fucoidan was higher than that of adenosine using standard material for anti wrinkle test. Optimum molecular weight of fucoidan to obtain highest tyrosin inhibition effect, elastase inhibition effect and radical scavenger effect is 100 kDa.

• Toxicological Research
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.363-369
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• 2015

We evaluated the antioxidant activity and anti-wrinkle effects of Aceriphyllum rossii leaf ethanol extract (ARLEE) in vitro using human dermal fibroblasts. The total polyphenol and flavonoid contents of ARLEE were 578.6 and 206.3 mg/g, respectively. At a concentration of $250{\mu}g/mL$, the electron-donating ability of ARLEE was 87.1%. In comparison with the vehicle, ARLEE treatment at $100{\mu}g/mL$ significantly increased type I procollagen synthesis (p < 0.01) by 50.7%. In vitro ARLEE treatment (10 mg/mL) inhibited collagenase and elastase activity by 97.1% and 99.2%, respectively. Compared with the control, ascorbic acid treatment at $100{\mu}g/mL$ significantly decreased matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 protein expression (p < 0.01) by 37.0%. ARLEE treatment at $50{\mu}g/mL$ significantly decreased MMP-1 protein expression (p < 0.01) by 46.1%. Ascorbic acid and ARLEE treatments at $100{\mu}g/mL$ significantly decreased MMP-1 mRNA expression (p < 0.01) by 26.1% and 36.1%, respectively. From these results, we conclude that ARLEE has excellent antioxidant activity and even better anti-wrinkle effects than ascorbic acid in human dermal fibroblasts. These results suggest that ARLEE could be used in functional cosmetics for the prevention or alleviation of skin wrinkles induced by ultraviolet rays.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.215-219
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• 2014

In Korean Cosmetic Act, four uses of functional cosmetics are recognized: skin whitening, anti-wrinkle, UV protection or suntan. Cosmeceuticals, one of the functional cosmetics, have been specifically developed for medical and cosmetic benefits. However, the uses of cosmeceuticals in patent applications are not limited to those of functional cosmetics, and the number is increasing with variety of medical use claims such as anti-inflammatory, prevention of hair loss, or obesity in cosmeceutical patent applications. Since some of the cosmeceutical use claims are not clearly distinguished from medical use claims in pharmaceuticals, there has been a controversy over the extent of granting patents regarding the medical use of cosmeceuticals. In this article, we have investigated the range of medical uses in patented claims of functional cosmetics, summarized examiners' views and discussed the examination practice of cosmetic-related inventions in the United States, Europe, and Japan.

• The Journal of Korean Medical History
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.63-72
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• 2018

As Korea's representative medical text, "Donguibogam" reveals Korean Medicine's unique perspective on the human body. The text also contains abundant resources related to skin, leading to diverse researches on the subject today. In this paper, authors tried to elicit values of "Donguibogam" in the general cosmetics field, through literature review. First, prescriptions related to main functions of modern cosmetics (anti-aging, whitening, and moisturizing) were classified. In relation to anti-aging, concepts such as 返老 (reversing aging), 還童 (to become young again), 皺 (wrinkle), and 皮急 (tense skin) were extracted and 69 examples of treatments were introduced. For whitening care, 41 treatments were mentioned on hyper-pigmentation and general complexion. Concepts related to moisturizing included expressions such as 潤肌膚 (hydration of skin) and 光澤 (glow), induced by 48 treatment prescriptions. Second, cosmetics related prescriptions were classified according to the application methods of modern cosmetics. 78 prescriptions of cleansing category included washing-off local area with herbal liquid, bathing, washing-off after steaming, and soaking the body in the herbal liquid. Total of 308 topical application prescriptions covered the conditions of various skin inflammations, scalp illnesses, and etc. In conclusion, this research examines the value of "Donguibogam" as a useful of skincare. Further studies are expected to extend our understanding of the field.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.142-146
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• 2024

There is growing interest in natural cosmetic ingredients as natural cosmetics become popular. As a part of effort to look for natureal cosmetic agent, seaweed Sargassums were tested for functional cosmetic agents. Effective materials were extracted from Sargassum coreanum. Sargassum hemiphyllum, and Sargassum patens by simple hot water extraction. Antioxidation, whitening, anti-wrinkle, UV absorption and anti-inflammation effects were studied for functional cosmetic agents. Sargassum extracts indicated excellent cell viability, strong anti-oxidation effect by DPPH radical scavenging activity and showed significant whitening effect from tyrosinase inhibition. However, effects of antiwrinkle, UV absorption and anti-inflammation were negligible. In conclusion, Sargassum coreanum extracts showed good possibility for anti-oxidation and whitening cosmetic agent.