DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Functional Cosmetic Effect of Sargassum Extracts

모자반추출물의 기능성 화장품소재 특성

  • Haeun Sim (Department of Pharmaceutical Engineering, Inje University) ;
  • Dae-Young Noh (Central Research Department, Korean Skin Research Center) ;
  • Donguk Kim (Phytoeco R&D Center, Inje University)
  • 심하은 (인제대학교 제약공학과) ;
  • 노대영 (KSRC 한국피부임상연구센터, 중앙연구부 임상평가팀) ;
  • 김동욱 (파이토에코 R&D 센터 인제대학교)
  • Received : 2023.10.14
  • Accepted : 2024.02.07
  • Published : 2024.05.01

Abstract

There is growing interest in natural cosmetic ingredients as natural cosmetics become popular. As a part of effort to look for natureal cosmetic agent, seaweed Sargassums were tested for functional cosmetic agents. Effective materials were extracted from Sargassum coreanum. Sargassum hemiphyllum, and Sargassum patens by simple hot water extraction. Antioxidation, whitening, anti-wrinkle, UV absorption and anti-inflammation effects were studied for functional cosmetic agents. Sargassum extracts indicated excellent cell viability, strong anti-oxidation effect by DPPH radical scavenging activity and showed significant whitening effect from tyrosinase inhibition. However, effects of antiwrinkle, UV absorption and anti-inflammation were negligible. In conclusion, Sargassum coreanum extracts showed good possibility for anti-oxidation and whitening cosmetic agent.

전세계적으로 천연화장품에 대한 관심과 수요가 크게 늘어나고 있다. 따라서 기존 화학합성 기능성화장품소재를 대체하기 위한 노력의 일환으로서 천연물에서 기능성화장품소재를 발굴하고자 하였다. 모자반은 우리나라의 해안 전지역에서 쉽게 볼 수 있는 갈조류의 일종으로서 식용으로도 이용되는 만큼 안전성이 확보되어있는 해조류이다. 본 연구에서는 큰잎 모자반(Sargassum coreanum). 짝잎 모자반(Sargassum hemiphyllum), 쌍발이 모자반(Sargassum patens)의 3가지 종류의 모자반으로부터 열수를 이용하여 유효성분을 추출하였으며, 항산화효과, 미백효과, 주름개선효과, 자외선흡수효과 및 항염증효과를 측정하여 기능성 화장품 소재로서의 응용 가능성을 살펴보고자 하였다. 모자반추출물은 세포독성시험결과 안전성이 매우 우수하였고, DPPH radical scavenging activity를 이용한 항산화능 측정결과 우수한 항산화능을 보여주었으며 tyrosinase inhibition을 이용한 미백효과시험에서는 큰잎 모자반(Sargassum coreanum)의 미백효과가 상당히 우수하였다. 그러나 주름개선효과, 자외선흡수효과와 항염증효과는 비교적 낮았다. 결론적으로 큰잎 모자반(Sargassum coreanum)은 세포독성이 적었고, 항산화효과와 미백효과가 우수하여 미백 기능성화장품소재로서 응용가능성이 높음을 알 수 있었다.

Keywords

References

  1. https://www.mfds.go.kr/index.do
  2. Kim, D., Cosmetics, 2nd ed., Free Academy, Paju, Gyeonggi-do (2021).
  3. https://ko.wikipedia.org/wiki/%EB%AA%A8%EC%9E%90%EB%B0%98.
  4. Koo, J.-G. and Jeong, S., "Isolation and Characterization of Polysaccharides Purified from Brown Alga Sargassum horneri," Korean J. Fish. Aquat. Sci., 53(5), 681-687(2020).
  5. Bui, H. T. T., Luu, T. Q. and Fotedar, R., "Effect of Temperature and pH on the Growth of Sargassum linearifolium and S. podacanthum in Potassium-FortifiedInland Saline Water," American Journal of Applied Sciences, 15(3), 186-197(2018). https://doi.org/10.3844/ajassp.2018.186.197
  6. Chlopicka, J., Pasko, P. and Gorinstein, S., "Total Phenolic and Total Flavonoid Content, Antioxidant Activity and Sensory Evaluation of Pseudocereal Breads," Lwt Food Sci Technol., 46(2), 548-555(2012). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.lwt.2011.11.009
  7. Dudonne, S., Vitrac, X. and Coutiere, P., "Comparative Study of Antioxidant Properties and Total Phenolic Content of 30 Plant Extracts of Industrial Interest Using DPPH, ABTS, FRAP, SOD, and ORAC Assays," J. Agri. Food. Chem., 57(5), 1768-1774 (2009). https://doi.org/10.1021/jf803011r
  8. Momtaz, S., Mapunya, B. M. and Houghton, P. J., "Tyrosinase Inhibition by Extracts and Constituents of Sideroxylon Inerme L. Stem Bark, Used in South Africa for Skin Lightening," J. Ethnopharmacol., 119(3), 507-512(2008). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2008.06.006
  9. Wittenauer, J., Mackle, S. and Sussmann D., "Inhibitory Effects of Polyphenols from Grape Pomace Extract on Collagenase and Elastase Activity," Fitoterapia, 101(1), 179-187(2015). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.fitote.2015.01.005
  10. Fernando, I. P. S., Sanjeewa, K. K. A. and Samarakoon, K. W., "The Potential of Fucoidans from Chnoospora Minima and Sargassum Polycystum in Cosmetics: Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory, Skin-Whitening, and Antiwrinkle Activities," J. Appl. Phys., 30(6), 3223-3232(2018).
  11. Lee, H. A., Song, B. R. and Kim, H. R., "Butanol Extracts of Asparagus Cochinchinensis Fermented with Weissella Cibaria Inhibit iNOS-Mediated COX-2 Induction Pathway and Inflammatory Cytokines in LPS-Stimulated RAW264.7 Macrophage Cells," Exp Ther Med., 14(11), 4986-4994(2017). https://doi.org/10.3892/etm.2017.5200
  12. Hopkins, W. G. and Huner, N. P. A., Introduction to Plant Physiology, 3rd ed., Wiley, Hoboken, NJ(2004).
  13. Shin, H. J., Jeong, H., Hwang, D. and Kim, D., "Cudrania Tricuspidata Root Extract as Whitening and Anti-Wrinkle Cosmetic Agent," Korean Chem. Eng. Res., 52(6) 701-705(2014). https://doi.org/10.9713/kcer.2014.52.6.701
  14. Han, D., Noh, D., Shim, H. and Kim, D., "Functional Cosmetic Characterisitics of the Oxalidacea Extracts," Korean Chem. Eng. Res., 56(3), 309-314(2018).
  15. Numata, T., Tobita, R., Tsuboi, R. and Okubo Y., "Contact Dermatitis Caused by Arbutin Contained in Skin-Whitening Cosmetics," Contact Dermatitis, 75(3), 187-188(2016). https://doi.org/10.1111/cod.12594
  16. Zhu, W. and Gao, J., "The Use of Botanical Extracts as Topical Skin-Lighting Agents for the Improvement of Skin Pigmentation Disorders," J. Investigative Dermatology Symphosium Proceedings, 13(1), 20-24 2008. https://doi.org/10.1038/jidsymp.2008.8
  17. Belhadjali, H. and Giordano-Labadie, F., "Contact Dermatitis from Vitamin C in a Cosmetic Anti-Aging Cream," Contact Dermatitis, 45(5), 317-321(2002). https://doi.org/10.1034/j.1600-0536.2001.450523.x
  18. Kim, E.-H., "A Study of Whitening Cosmetics from Natural Products," Korean J. of Aesthetic and Cosmetology, 4(2), 195-203 (2006).
  19. Chung, S. H., "A Review of Current Research on Natural Skin Whitening Products," Asian J Beauty Cosmetol., 16(4), 599-607 (2018). https://doi.org/10.20402/ajbc.2018.0243
  20. Couteau, C. and Coiffard, L., "Overview of Skin Whitening Agents: Drugs and Cosmetic Products," Cosmetics, 3(3), 27-32 (2016).
  21. Kim, C.-T., Chang, Y.-H. and Lee, S.-H., "New Whitening Agent : Selina-4(14), 7(11)-dien-8-one," J. Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, 31(1), 17-23(2005).