• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.39-46
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• 2022

In this study, we tried to find out the value of using Vietnamese Ternstroemia kwangtungensis Merr. (TK) extracts as a functional material. As a result of measuring the level of Nrf2 expression of TK, 50% ethanol extract TK leaf showed the highest activity at a concentration of 200 ㎍/mL. In order to confirm the stability of the extract over time at room temperature, UPLC was performed, and stability was maintained because the patterns of the UV spectrum pattern were the same. In order to confirm the antioxidant efficacy of TK, the activity increased as the concentration increased as a result of measuring electron donating and ABTS⁺ radical scavenging ability. At 1,000 ㎍/mL, they showed effects of 94.6% and 90.8%, respectively. As a result of measuring the tyrosinase inhibitory activity showed an inhibitory ability of 24.4% at a concentration of 1,000 ㎍/mL. In addition, as a result of examining the elastase inhibitory activity of the extract was increased in a concentration-dependent manner, and it was confirmed that the inhibitory activity was 42.7% at 1,000 ㎍/mL. From these results, it was confirmed that the TK extract was valuable as a natural material for cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.235-241
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• 2009

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase, elastase of Persicaria perfoliata extracts were investigated. The deglycosylated fraction of extract ($12.38{\mu}g$/mL) showed the most prominent free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of P. perfoliata extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction of extract ($0.35{\mu}g$/mL) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of P. perfoliata extract/fractions on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The P. perfoliata extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner ($1{\sim}50{\mu}g$/mL) except the deglycosylated fraction of extract. The inhibitory effect of P. perfoliata extracts on tyrosinase was investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction of P. perfoliata extract ($136.00{\mu}g$/mL) and deglycosylated fraction of extract ($68.10{\mu}g$/mL). Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. Inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on elastase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction of P. perfoliata extract ($67.20{\mu}g$/mL) and deglycosylated fraction of extract ($43.50{\mu}g$/mL). These results indicate that extract/fractions of P. perfoliata can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. Extract/fractions of P. perfoliata can be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antioxidant, antiaging.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.249-258
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• 2018

Airborne pollution causes oxidative damage, inflammation, and premature aging of skin. Resveratrol is a polyphenol compound that has various biological activities such as antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and anti-melanogenic activities but it is unstable to heat and light. Resveratryl triacetate (RTA) is a new cosmetic ingredient that is more stable than resveratrol and its skin safety and whitening efficacy have been reported previously. The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of resveratrol and resveratryl triacetate (RTA) on the inflammatory responses of human epidermal keratinocytes (HEKs) exposed to airborne particulate matters with a diameter of < $10{\mu}m$ (PM10). Cultured HEKs were exposed to PM10 in the absence or presence of resveratrol and RTA. Assays were undertaken to determine cell viability, the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), and the expression of inflammatory cytokines. PM10 treatment decreased cell viability, and increased the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as tumor necrosis $factor-{\alpha}$ ($TNF-{\alpha}$), $interleukin-1{\beta}$ ($IL-1{\beta}$), interleukin-6 (IL-6), and interleukin-8 (IL-8). Resveratrol and RTA reduced cell death and ROS production induced by PM10. PM10-induced mRNA expression of the inflammatory cytokines was either attenuated (IL-6), or enhanced ($IL-1{\beta}$), or unaffected ($TNF-{\alpha}$ and IL-8) by resveratrol and RTA. PM10-induced IL-6 protein expression was attenuated by resveratrol and RTA. This study suggests that resveratrol and RTA have activities regulating cell damage and inflammatory responses of the skin exposed to airborne particulate matters.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.333-341
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• 2016

This study examined the beauty food activities of water and ethanol extracts from Tetragonia tetragonioides. Content of phenolic compounds extracted with water and 50% ethanol extracts were 3.29 mg/g and 4.14 mg/g, respectively. 1,1-Diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl free radical scavenging activities of water and ethanol extracts were 98.45% and 91.20%, respectively, at $200{\mu}g/mL$ of phenolics. 2,2'-Azinobis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) radical decolorization activity was 97.28% for water extracts and 97.83% for ethanol extracts at $100{\mu}g/mL$ of phenolics. Antioxidant protection factor (PF) was 1.77 PF for water and ethanol extracts at $200{\mu}g/mL$ of phenolics. Thiobarbituric acid reactive substances of water and ethanol extracts were 94.77% and 95.64%, respectively, at $100{\mu}g/mL$ of phenolics. Tyrosinase inhibitory activity, which is related to skin-whitening, was confirmed to be 34.96% for ethanol extracts at $200{\mu}g/mL$ of phenolics. Elastase inhibitory activity and anti-wrinkle effect of 50% ethanol extracts were 78.9% at $200{\mu}g/mL$ of phenolics. Collagenase inhibitory activity of ethanol extracts was 61.29% at $200{\mu}g/mL$ of phenolics. Astringent effect was not detected in water extracts but was 7.82% for 50% ethanol extracts at $200{\mu}g/mL$ of phenolics. Hyaluronidase inhibitory activity as a measure of anti-inflammation was confirmed to be 81.04% for water extracts at $200{\mu}g/mL$ of phenolics. Based on these results, Tetragonia tetragonioides extracts can be used as a functional material and functional beauty food with antioxidant effects.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.3
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• pp.231-245
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• 2023

In the cosmetics industry, it is important to develop new materials for functional cosmetics such as whitening, wrinkles, anti-oxidation, and anti-aging, as well as technology to increase absorption when applied to the skin. Therefore, in this study, we tried to optimize the nanoemulsion formulation by utilizing response surface methodology (RSM), an experimental design method. A nanoemulsion was prepared by a high-pressure emulsification method using Glabridin as an active ingredient, and finally, the optimized skin absorption rate of the nanoemulsion was evaluated. Nanoemulsions were prepared by varying the surfactant content, cholesterol content, oil content, polyol content, high-pressure homogenization pressure, and cycling number of high-pressure homogenization as RSM factors. Among them, surfactant content, oil content, high-pressure homogenization pressure, and cycling number of high-pressure homogenization, which are factors that have the greatest influence on particle size, were used as independent variables, and particle size and skin absorption rate of nanoemulsion were used as response variables. A total of 29 experiments were conducted at random, including 5 repetitions of the center point, and the particle size and skin absorption of the prepared nanoemulsion were measured. Based on the results, the formulation with the minimum particle size and maximum skin absorption was optimized, and the surfactant content of 5.0 wt%, oil content of 2.0 wt%, high-pressure homogenization pressure of 1,000 bar, and the cycling number of high-pressure homogenization of 4 pass were derived as the optimal conditions. As the physical properties of the nanoemulsion prepared under optimal conditions, the particle size was 111.6 ± 0.2 nm, the PDI was 0.247 ± 0.014, and the zeta potential was -56.7 ± 1.2 mV. The skin absorption rate of the nanoemulsion was compared with emulsion as a control. As a result of the nanoemulsion and general emulsion skin absorption test, the cumulative absorption of the nanoemulsion was 79.53 ± 0.23%, and the cumulative absorption of the emulsion as a control was 66.54 ± 1.45% after 24 h, which was 13% higher than the emulsion.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.233-244
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on elastase and tyrosinase, and component analysis of Psidium guajava leaf extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities $(FSC_{50})$ of extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf were in the order: 50% ethanol extract $(7.05{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethyl acetate fraction $(3.36{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction $(3.24{\mu}g/mL)$. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities $(OSC_{50})$ of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activities were 50% ethanol extract $(OSC_{50},\;2.17{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethyl acetate fraction $(0.64{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction $(3.39{\mu}g/mL)$. Aglycone fraction showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Psidium guajava leaf extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner $(1{\sim}10{\mu}g/mL)$, particularly deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect ${\tau}_{50}\;107.5min\;at\;1{\mu}g/mL)$. Aglycone fraction obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction among the Psidium guajava leaf extracts, showed 1 band in TLC and 1 peak in HPLC experiments (360 nm). One component was identified as quercetin. TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of Psidium guajava leaf extract revealed 5 bands and HPLC chromatogram showed 5 peaks, which were identified as quercetin 3-O-gentobioside (10.32%) , quercetin 3-O-${\beta}$-D-glucoside (isoquercitin, 13.30%), quercetin 3-O-${\beta}$-D-galactoside (hyperin, 11.34%), quercetin 3-O-${\alpha}$-L-arabinoside (guajavarin, 19.70%), quercetin 3-O-${\beta}$-L-rhamnoside (quercitrin, 45.33%) in the order of elution time. The inhibitory effect of Psidium guajava leaf extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. Inhibitory effects $(IC_{50})$ on tyrosinase of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts was 50% ethanol extract $(149.67{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethylacetate fraction $(30.67{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated aglycone fraction $(17.10{\mu}g/mL)$. Inhibitory effects $(IC_{50})$ on elastase of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts was 50% ethanol extract $(6.60{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated aglycone fraction $(5.66{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethylacetate fraction $(3.44{\mu}g/mL)$. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf can function as antioxidants in bioloigcal systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Psidium guajava leaf extract and inhibitory activity on elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for smoothing wrinkles.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.101-108
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• 2017

The phenolic contents which were extracted with water and 70% ethanol from O. undulatifolius were 7.7, 10.1 mg/g, respectively. The 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl free radical scavenging activity of water and ethanol extracts were 78, 82% at $50{\mu}g/mL$ phenolics, respectively. The 2,2'-Azinobis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) radical cation decolorization activity were 92, 76% at $100{\mu}g/mL$ phenolics. Antioxidant protection factor in water and ethanol extracts at $200{\mu}g/mL$ phenolics were 1.51 and 2.08 PF, respectively. Thiobarbituric acid reactive substance were 84% in water extracts and 99% in ethanol extracts at $50{\mu}g/mL$ phenolics, respectively. The inhibition activity on ${\alpha}-Glucosidase$ was 44% in ethanol extracts at $200{\mu}g/mL$ phenolics. The inhibition activity on ${\alpha}-amylase$ was 37-88% in water extracts at $50-200{\mu}g/mL$ phenolics. The tyrosinase inhibition activity as whitening effect were 82% in ethanol extracts. The elastase inhibition activity were 4, 61% in water and ethanol extracts, respectively. The collagenase inhibition activity of antiwrinkle effect showed an excellent wrinkle improvement effect as 39% in water extracts and 67% in ethanol extracts at $200{\mu}g/mL$ phenolics, respectively. The hyaluronidase inhibition activity as anti-inflammation effect of ethanol extracts was confirmed to 46% of inhibition at $200{\mu}g/mL$ phenolic. The astringent effect of water and ethanol extracts was confirmed to 13, 32% of effect at $200{\mu}g/mL$ phenolic, respectively.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.393-401
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• 2016

The phenolic compounds extracted from Aster scaber were examined for their biological activities owing to their potential use in health and beauty food products. The phenolic content in water and 60% ethanol extracts were $11.1{\pm}0.11$ and $4.18{\pm}0.05mg/g$, respectively. The DPPH radical scavenging activities of the water and ethanol extracts were 87% and 91% at $50{\mu}g$ phenolics/mL, respectively. At the same phenolics concentration, the respective extracts showed 84% and 95% for ABTS radical decolorization activities and 95% and 97% for TBARs. The antioxidant protection factors for the water and ethanol extracts at $200{\mu}g$ phenolics/mL were 1.87 and 2.22 PF, respectively. Enzyme inhibitory activities of the water and ethanol extracts ($50{\mu}g$ phenolics/mL) were 50.8% and 69.4% on angiotensin converting enzyme, 91% and 80% on xanthine oxidase, and 24% and 89% on ${\alpha}$-amylase, respectively. The tyrosinase inhibitory activities indicating skin-whitening were 47% and 25% for the water and ethanol extracts, respectively. Anti-wrinkle effect of the water extract was relatively higher than that of the ethanol extract. These results suggest that the water and ethanol extracts of Aster scaber can be used as an ingredient in health and beauty food products.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.702-711
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• 2015

This study was conducted to determine the feasibility of using Gastrodia elata Blume as a cosmetic raw material by investigating the physiological activities of its extracts, varying the concentration, solvent, and fermentation method (non-fermentation and fermentation using lactic acid bacteria and effective microorganisms). Of the extracts in three different solvents-water, EtOH, and 70% EtOH-at four different concentrations (0.725, 1.25, 2.5, and 5 mg/mL), the EtOH extracts demonstrated the highest contents of antioxidants (flavonoids, polyphenols, and DPPH free radical scavengers). The DPPH free radical scavenging activity in the EtOH extracts of EM-fermented Gastrodia elata Blume increased from $27.08{\pm}0.5%$ at 1.25 mg/mL to $35.89{\pm}0.8%$ at 2.5 mg/mL. The tyrosinase inhibitory activity test was performed to measure skin-whitening capacity and revealed the LB-fermented EtOH extracts to be the most efficacious ($39.1{\pm}0.4%$ at 0.725 mg/mL, $62.8{\pm}1.5%$ at 2.5 mg/mL). Viability was found to exceed 85% in RAW 264.7 cells treated with all extracts (water, EtOH, 70% EtOH at 10, 25, $50{\mu}L$, fermented and non-fermented), thus proving that Gastrodia elata Blume extracts do not cause inflammation. When RAW 264.7 cells were stimulated with lipopolysaccharide as positive controls under the same conditions to determine the antioxidant activity in the presence of reactive oxygen species (ROS), EM-fermentation was found to impart excellent antioxidant capacity. This study verified the physiological activities of fermented Gastrodia elata Blume extracts that are best suited for cosmetic ingredients, such as antioxidants, tyrosinase inhibitors and anti-inflammatory agents.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.83-92
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase and components of Fagopyrum esculetum extracts were investigated. Fagopyrum esculetum used for this study is hulls and dehulled seeds. The free radical(1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical, DPPH) scavenging activities($FSC_{50}$) and reactive oxygen species(ROS) scavenging activities($OSC_{50}$) of extract/fractions from Fagopyrum esculetum were measured. The aglycone($3.5{\pm}0.0{\mu}g/mL$) and ethyl acetate fractions($0.2{\pm}0.1{\mu}g/mL$) of hulls showed the most effective scavenging activities. The protective effects on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect(${\tau}_{50},\;771.7{\pm}9.9 min$ at 10 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction of hull and dehulled seeds on tyrosinase were examined ($53.6{\pm}0.5{\mu}g/mL,\;35.6{\pm}0.4{\mu}g/mL$, respectively). And The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction of hull and dehulled seeds on elastase were investigated($3.7{\pm}0.4{\mu}g/mL\;and\;6.0{\pm}0.7{\mu}g/mL$ respectively). But 50% ethanol extract rarely exhibited the inhibitory activity on tyrosinase and elastase. (+)-Catechin and (-)-epicatechin were contained in ethyl acetate fraction of dehulled seeds. And ethyl acetate fraction of hull contains flavonoids of hyperin, quercetin, rutin and so on. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Fagopyrum esculentum can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. Fagopyrum esculentum extract could be used as a new cosmeceutical for whitening and anti-wrinkle products.