• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
• /
• no.16
• /
• pp.68-74
• /
• 1998

Modern fashion shop is changed by the changing of fashion style. And as purch asing pattern is charged to consuming pattern which has strong individuality functions as space which reflect characteristics of products and consumers in order to present sensitive and in dividual image are also required besides conventional concept as space which simply focused on sale. Meanwhile in the 1980's the fashion presented retro mood modernly by popularization of post-modernism and introduced minimalism that is one of the anti-cultures in the 1960's. Recently minimalistic trends which are expressed by various attempts and a new point of view are introduced to the fashion shop by interior designer. Therefore in this study minimalistic characteristics which appear in the composition of interior space of the modern fashion shop are researched by theoretical consideration and analysis of examples and analysis of examples and consistent direction of fashion shop is presented.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.55-65
• /
• 1998

Actually, Cyberpunk is a compound word joined by cybernetics, which was used in control theory, and punk, was symbolized as anti-culture. Today, however, the definition of the term has been extended by various fields, used in many meanings. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to apply the Cyberpunk concepts to understand today　s fashion because understanding of the present fashion is a means to interpret our culture. For this purpose, the phenomenon of Cyberpunk in fashion was subdivided into three factors material, color, and style. The results of the study were as follows : First, the materials used were techno material, special print by computer for future feeling and geometrical pattern, optical pattern to improve visual effects. Second, the colors mainly used were silver, black and white, bright color, and off-color of computer animation to present future-oriented feeling. Third, the general styles used were fit and slim, simple and liner, dualistic style to express future　s image. In conclusion, the phenomena of Cyberpunk in fashion were expressed in material, color and style of fashion. Cyberpunk fashion was evident in T-shirts, sweaters, jackets, or as items of ornamentation such as pins, pendants, belts, and earrings, etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.21 no.3
• /
• pp.581-588
• /
• 1997

Since 1950 postmodernism shows strong influences in literature, architektuTe, art, clothing and other social and cultural fields. It's main conceptswere individual, pluralistic, unconven- tional and deconstruction of social values. The purpose of thisstudy was to review the influence of postmodernism to German clothing for youth. To achieve this purpose, raga- zinesfor youth ("BKAVO") from 1959 to 1994 surveyed including a number of interviews. The characterizations of postmodernism in fashion are as follows: Sport Clothing has an effect on Oaily Clothing. Exotic phenomenon from south america, africa, asia shows strong in fashion. Subculture(Rocker, Hippie, Punker) is as anti-culture sylnbolically expressed in young fashion which is diffrent from mother-fashion. This appeard in Germany in the 50s, 60san6 70s. However, sub-culture-look in the 80s and 90s is presented only in outer style. It does'nt show any symbolic meanings. "Bricolage" ("mix and match") -concept was appeard in 60s and 70s only in fashion of subculture group. This concept generalized in standard fashion in 80s and 90s.andard fashion in 80s and 90s.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.2 no.1
• /
• pp.133-145
• /
• 2000

Costume in movies are used as an instrument to signify the personality image and status of characters, and even the main theme of movie itself. The purpose of this paper is to verify the feministic meaning of bloomer costume used in movie, 「OSCAR and LUCINDA」. The bloomer costume was anti-fashion in crinoline period, when women was normally not allowed to put on trousers. To achieve the purpose, I used content analysis to obtain meanings from existing literature and video tapes(including, slides and pictures). Bloomer costume, introduced by Mrs. Amelia Bloomer at 1850s, is an anti­fashion to express women's right to wear trousers that were exclusively used by men since the medieval age. In this sense, bloomer costume itself is a costume expressing values of women's emancipation movement. In 「OSCAR and LUCINDA」, heroine, Lucinda, with bloomer costume is described as a woman who has strong motivation toward work, who actively looks for a man she loves, and who has free­will to involve herself in what she wants, even gambling. This is not surprising in a sense that Lucinda's bloomer costumes itself signifies the meanings of feminism. I found that bloomer costume was well described in the movie from the historical point of view. But some details, including type of trousers, were expressed without strict historical evidence. Overall, it is certain that 「OSCAR and LUCINDA」, with a heroine wearing bloomer costume was a big step towards women's emancipation in movies.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.102-114
• /
• 2000

The works of the Futurism were developed along with manifestos and statement in publishing. Futurist aesthetic and ideological agenda on futurist fashion displayed in manifestos on clothes. Futurist fashion propagated in consummate Futurist style through the written manifesto. The Futurists anticipated much of modern fashion phenomenon. In Futurist Men's Clothing, men's clothing is aggressive, agile, dynamic, simple and comfortable, hygienic, gay, luminous, volatile, asymmetric and variable. In Futurist Manifesto on Woman's Clothing, woman is now a principal agent of revolt, a walking synthesis of the audacious, performance-oriented aesthetic of the futurist universe. For Futurist woman's clothing they claimed ingenuity, daring, and economy. The Futurist Manifesto of Italian Hat was continued with their provocative style and radical ambition. Their innovation will rescue a lagging Italian expert and restore the Italian male to his former Iatin Vigor. Speed, dynamic, utility, and funtionality are the main characters. In Futurist Manifesto of Italian Cravat, Futurist cravat is called Anti-cravatta, which is anti-traditional style and made of unconventional materials. In general, the Futurist argued for clothes that promoted simple and functionality. These Futurist fashion project were invention of the new style, avant-garde style, in daily wear and were realized for the renewal of taste in clothing design as a modernizing factors.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.7 no.6
• /
• pp.170-181
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study is to suggest the possibility of futurism as original design pursuing newness in approaching 21C by studying how futurism having a great effect on fashion as innovatory ideology in early 20C did became paradigm in 20C fashion and the common peculiarity of the dress and its ornaments in this time before 21C. The Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber Fashion are representative futurism fashion of 20C. The common inner inclination in both Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber fashion are ; First, a future-oriented character. Second, a surrealism character, Third, an anti-cultural character. The greatest peculiarity in the common outer shape in both Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber Fashion is material. First, a innovatory choice. Second, an active motion. Third, a diverse effects. Future dress and its ornaments of 21C may be changed greatly by the development of technique, and this fact supports the forecast that the change of paradigm resulted from the development of science may have an effect on future dress and its ornaments as well as modern one. The paradigm change of futurism fashion would be continued, and its influence would work as main source shaping the form of design in 21C.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.46
• /
• pp.49-66
• /
• 1999

The bisexuality deconstructivity and diversity that are great characteristics on the comtemporary fashion are showed in the fashion collections. The purpose of this paper is to investigate and analyze the influence of these characteristics made by the post modern-feminism fashion through the cultural pattern analysis. The post modern-feminism was analyzed by dividing the cultural pattern into 1) the deconstructivity of androcentrism -This characteristic was presented in the costume design that breaks the basic from of the line color and quality of the material showing in men's clothes. 2) By rejecting main current fashion -Subculture style appeared in main current fashion the boundary of main and anti-main current fashion was vagued and the phenomena that the identity of subgroup was weakened were showed. 3) In the coexistence of double-sided value -This characteristic was presented in the cross-dressing fashion that cut away women's slender part and men's rough part. 4) In the open-minded thought of gender -This tendency was reached an extreme from excessive exposure to design which gives the sexual stimulus. This paper is expected to be helpful to understand the contemporary fashion by treating the cultural category associated with post-modern feminism in relation to contemporary fashion and to establish the direction of 21 century fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.42 no.9
• /
• pp.19-35
• /
• 2004

Creative design acquires value-added quality in fashion business. The anti-aesthetic Belgian designers who have been rebelling within strict rules are admired internationally, having reached the top-ten lists in the Journal do Textile in the 1990s. Moreover, they have set the trend in new progressive fashion. In the age of domination by marketing, these people have succeeded in, their integrity, their free spirits, and their passion for what they do. The interaction between their creativity, which is visible throughout their design process, and commercial interests is the key to the success of Belgian fashion. It is also noteworthy that the designing process is strongly linked together with flexible coordination. This analysis on the creativity of Belgian fashion design based on theoretical studies and interviews with Belgian designers from magazines and newspapers. The research includes the following main topics: 1. Analysis on the creativity of designing process. 2. Analysis on characteristics of Belgian fashion design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.5 no.1
• /
• pp.71-76
• /
• 2003

Three different types of chitosan were prepared from red crab shells to study anti-microbial activity of chitosan on pathogenic bacteria, MRSA(Methicillin-resistant. Staphylococcus aureus), Water-insoluble chitosan, whose degree of deacetylation is kept over 90% and molecular weights are 20,000, 500,000, 150,000, 80,000, and 40,000, respectively. Water-soluble chitosan, whose degree of deacetylation is about 48% and molecular weights are 200,000 and 80,000. Water-soluble chitosan, whose degree of deacetylation is 82% and molecular weight is 3,900. The anti-microbial activities of three types of chitosan were investigated by Tube Dilution Technique(TDT) and Agar Plate Smear Method(APSM). And the following conclusions are made ; Chitosan having 5 different types of M.W chitosan (over 90% deacetylation) showed similar anti-microbial activities at over 0.05% concentration. Especially, chitosan having M.W 40,000 150,000 showed the excellent anti-microbial activity. The anti-microbial activity of chitosan was enhanced when the chitosan/acetic add solution was aged for 7days. The anti-microbial activity of chitosan was only shown at chitosan/acetic acid solution. The anti-microbial activity was not detected in chitosan solution dissolved in neutral pH water. Therefore, it can be concluded that the anti-microbial activity was due to NH3+ cationic ion of chitosan in acidic aqueous solution.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.1 no.3
• /
• pp.45-59
• /
• 1997

This study, on the military fashion which has been inspired by the men's military uniform, is composed of an examination of the following; the aspect on the women's hi-fashion and the street fashion and the analysis of it's intention. On hi-fashion, from the 1960s to the early half of the 1970s, by the influence of the minimalism, maintained it's couture style, which is the formal image as well as moderating the line and simplifying the details, From the latter part of the 1970s to the 1980s, mannish image was sensed greatly by the wide shoulders with pads and large silhouette. The 1990's theme was the retro. Many different expression techniques appeared, but the trend was the retro. However, on the streets, young generation and hippies wore unisex army mode because of the influence of anti-war movement. Also, Hell's Angels, punks used black leather jacket with Nazi symbol, badge and eyelet expressed to show their aggressiveness as an avantgarde fashion. The intentions of military fashion can be analyzed as women's amazon need, the feeling of movement, and the spirit of rebellion.