• 제목/요약/키워드: ancient costume

검색결과 303건 처리시간 0.023초

제직기술과 문양을 통해 본 금직물(錦織物)의 동서교류에 관한 연구 - 고대부터 당시대를 중심으로 - (A Study on the Cultural Exchange of the Weaving Skills and Patterns Witnessed in Geum-textiles between the East and West - from Ancient Times to the Tang Dynasty -)

  • 신혜성
    • 복식
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    • 제62권4호
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    • pp.107-122
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    • 2012
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes and developments that occurred as a result of the exchanges of gyeong-geum(經錦), a warp-faced compound weave of East Asia, and wie-geum(緯錦), a weft-faced compound weave of West Asia. In order to maximize the efficiency of this research, topics were narrowed down to the weaving skills and patterns, and the period was limited to the Tang dynasty. The systematic characteristics and differences of gyeong-geum and wie-geum were compared and contrasted through different works of literature. Then the excavated remains of geum-textiles were analyzed and the characteristics of the geum-textiles were defined in chronological order. The origin of wie-geum is traced back to the time when West Asia started to imitate the weaving style of the East Asian gyeong-geum. When combined with the weaving skills of the West Asian, gyeong-geum, which broke through the West and developed into the weft-faced compound twill silk, or samite. The exchange of geum-textiles took place as the techniques of gastric filament woven geum-textiles returned to the East. Along with the pearl roundel motifs of Sassanian Persia, mythical animals and western motifs of hunter patterns were used for the patterns of wie-geumin during the early Tang dynasty. This tendency is related to pa-sa-geum(波斯錦), ho-geum(胡錦), beon-geum(番錦) according to the recorded literature. The 8th and 9th century are periods when the West Asian Persian style was abandoned and the East Asian style, samite, was established. Not only did S twist silk threads replace Z twists, but also the repetition of patterns unfolded along with the weft and the warp. As this tendency was strengthened after the 9th century, the expression of patterns became more vividly colorful and showed both elements of naturalism and realism. The characteristics of the Bosangwha(寶相花) pattern in the Tang period were established with the rampantly repeated rosettes with birds often holding auspicious branches, that fly amid floral compositions.

일본 중세의 색채 문화: 가마쿠라·무로마치 시대를 중심으로 (Color Culture of Japanese Medieval Age: Focusing on Kamakura & Muromachi Periods)

  • 이경희;김금화
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제19권1호
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    • pp.95-105
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    • 2015
  • This study investigated the color culture in the Japanese Medieval Age. The Japanese Medieval Age included the Kamakura period (1180-1333) and Muromachi period (1336-1573), and the leading group transitioned from the Kuge families to the Buke families. The taboos about colors from ancient times became nominal, and forbidden colors, such as purple, celadon, and red, became the colors of the samurai, leading to beautiful soldier gears that were unparalleled in history. In the Kamakura period, colors that conveyed a strong impression were created and preferred with the combination of a samurai's reasonable spirit and zen thoughts. The period was also called "the era of hari", and cross dyeing based on basic colors such as suou (red), ai (blue), and kuchinasi (yellow) was popular. In both the Kamakura and Muromachi periods, conspicuous and strong colors were sought for costumes, and embroidery was used with gold leaf, silver leaf, gold threads, silver threads, and background color. The colors of costume preferred by Buke men in the period included green, blue, and brown. In the characteristics of the kosode, the sugan and hitadare were used for men's formal dress, while kosode was used for the grooming of the working class. In these periods, additionally, the working class began to be socially engaged in actively wearing the one-layer kosode, which became popular, and the characteristics of the Japanese Medieval Age, during which functionality and practicality was valued, were also reflected in the dressing.

조·일간의 교역품이 조선의 복식문화에 미친 영향(I) - 일본으로 부터의 수입품을 중심으로 - (The Influence of the Trade Goods Between the Chosun Dynasty and Japan on the Costume Culture of the Chosun Dynasty (I) -Centered on the imported goods from Japan-)

  • 이자연;박춘순
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제5권4호
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    • pp.331-336
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    • 2003
  • This study is to research the influence of Caesalpinia sappan which was imported through the exchanges between the Chosun dynasty and Japanese envoys during the early Chosun dynasty. Korea interchanged politically and culturally with Japan since ancient times. Particularly, the good-neighbor foreign policy toward Japan grew into trade relations. The diplomatic mission, under the name of Tongshinsa, was dispatched 12 times in total. Plenty of goods were exchanged through the visiting of Japanese envoys as well as through the activities of Korean envoys. In other words, the Korean-Japanese relations were at first focused on the political and diplomatic etiquette and gradually evolved into economic exchanges. Trading goods were various, including food, clothing, etc. Caesalpinia sappan, a red dye, was the most imported goods from Japan, but it was sold at a very high price, which caused luxurious trends in clothing. However, these sumptuous moods of the upper classes were decreased in the 16th century. Some of the reasons are : the difficulties of Japan's trade with the Caesalpinia sappan producing countries in South-east Asia, the transition of the high classes' preference from red clothing into Chinese BaecSa and SaraNeungDan, and the comparative decrease in the demand of Caesalpinia sappan by the changed understanding of Honghwa. Therefore, the early Chosun dynasty's clothing trends were due to the relationships between the Chosun dynasty and Japan.

코트(COAT)의 형태별 분석에 관한 연구 - 제1차 세계대전 이후 1960년대 까지를 중심으로 - (A study on woman's coat -From world war 1 to 1960's -)

  • 김문숙
    • 대한가정학회지
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    • 제24권1호
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    • pp.28-41
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    • 1986
  • In the history of costume, coat can be traced up to ancient Persia but it was generalized as today's style around 14th an d15th century in Euro[pe. World wars, revolutions and rapid social changes of the last 80 years have produced more changes in the way people dress than any comparable period in history. Thewse changes enabled emergence of more modernized woman's garments and through it, dress and coat ensemble became public's main fashion. In 1920's after world war I, boyish style in woman's garment was in vogue. Woman's coat was also in the same style with length sortened up to the knee level and silhoutte was straighter and semi-fitted than previous period. Length of the coat was longer in late 1930's but shortened again in 1940's. And the most popular silhouette of both 30's and 40's was shape of the hourglass which was commonly called the "X-shape". Also double=breasted coat with fitted waistline, belt and flare skirt was in vogue. In 1950's and 60's, with the variety of lines in woman's garments, silhouette of the coat also appeared in many different forms. Along with the various shapes, color of the coat changed throughout the decades : dark colors in 20's, bright colors in 30's, mixed colors of 20's and 30's in 40's and in 50's, color had changed to archromatic. In fabric, wool was most popular in all periods. However, such gabrics as tweed, cotton, gaberdine, linen were added to give variety. It is very interesting to see collars trimmed with expensive furs were very popular in 20's and 30's but it almost disappeared in 40's and fur trimming reappeared in late 50's. In addtion to silhouette changes in design, details such as buttons, epaulettes, pockets and fur trimming of hemline were emphasizing points of varieties in design. This study has set time limits world war I which was the period coat became major fashion of woman's clothing, to 1960's.

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동전(東傳) 연주문의 변천과정 비교연구 -5세기~10세기 벽화복식 및 출토 직물을 중심으로- (A Comparative Study on the Change in Oriental Linked pearls Pattern)

  • 안보연
    • 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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    • 제40권
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    • pp.243-270
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    • 2007
  • 직물에 표현되는 연주문은 제작 과정상 크기나 모양의 제약이 없어 그 표현이 자유롭고, 그 형태와 재료 색체 등을 통해서 당시의 사회문화를 유추할 수 있다. 본 연구의 주제인 동전(東傳) 연주문은 사산조 페르시아에서 출발하여 실크로드를 통해 전래된 것으로 동서문화 교류와 밀접해 있다. 이에 본 연구에서는 연주문이 시작되는 5세기부터 10세기에 해당하는 서 중앙아시아의 벽화 복식, 중국 신강 청해 일대에서 출토된 고대직물 그리고 일본 정창원(正倉院) 소장품의 연주문에 대해 고찰하였다. 그리고 이상의 자료를 통해 연주문의 동서 교류 현상과 구조적 변천과정을 밝히는 데에 목적을 두고 있다. 실크로드를 따라 동전(東傳)하는 연주문의 도안은 지역에 따라 조금씩 차이가 난다. 예를 들러 고대 소그들인들이 주로 활동했던 파미르고원 서쪽에서는 서아시아적인 모티브가 변형된 사슴이나 화식조 등을 주제로 하는 연주문금이 출토되지만, 쿠차 신강에서는 중국적인 모티브가 첨가되어 한자문이 삽입되거나 태양신[Helios] 대신 불상문 보살문으로 나타난다. 이처럼 새로운 문양의 등장은 구조적인 변화를 동반하여 점차 사산조 페르시아의 정형화된 패턴에서 벗어나게 된다. 그리고 그 구조적인 변천과정은 후대 여러 문양의 구성 및 배치방법과 연관이 있다. 연주 환간의 마름모꼴 공간에 안치된 사합초화문 등이 능화문의 형태로 발전되었으며, 10세기 이후 나타나는 기하학적인 골조문양의 유행 단위문양을 상하좌우로 배치하는 탑자문의 전개법이 연주문과 유사하다. 요컨대 연주문은 기술적 진보와 함께 표현 자체에서 세련된 예술적 코드를 읽을 수 있으며, 지역이나 문화를 넘어서는 보편적인 문양으로서 중요한 의미를 지닌다.

궁중정재 <오양선>의 전통문화콘텐츠화 시론 - 아시아 전통춤의 전파와 변용을 바탕으로 - (A Direction of Developing a Traditional Cultural Content of Korean Court Dance Oyangseon - With a Base on the Historical Transmission, Reception of Asian Traditional Dance -)

  • 허동성
    • 공연문화연구
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    • 제35호
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    • pp.509-541
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    • 2017
  • 본 연구의 기본 취의는 역사적으로 문화적 친연성을 지닌 아시아권의 전통춤을 대상으로 한 전통문화콘텐츠 구축을 위한 한 방향성을 제시하는 데 있다. 이를 위해 우리나라의 당악정재 곡목인 <오양선(五羊仙)>을 한 예범으로 그 역사적, 문학적 근거를 통해 그 배경서사의 연원이 고대 남월(南越; 베트남) 지역의 오양선 설화에 있음을 확인하였다. 즉, 다섯 신선이 오색의 양을 타고 오양성(五羊城; 현재의 중국 광주(廣州)에 내려와 여섯 개의 벼이삭(六穗?)을 하사하였다는 설화이다. 나아가 후대에 쓰여진 베트남의 구전설화 <월정전(越井傳)>, 중국의 전기(傳奇) 작품인 <최위(崔?)>가 이 원(原)서사에서 비롯되었음을 확인하였다. 반면 우리나라 <오양선>의 창사에 나타난 배경서사는 원서사에 서왕모와 천도 모티프를 추가하여 군왕의 축수(祝壽)와 덕치, 나라의 태평성대를 축원하는 의례적 모티프를 강화하였다. 본고에서는 3국 내 오양선 서사의 이러한 공통성에 주목하여 그를 소재로 한 각국 전통춤의 전승 현황을 추적한 바 중국의 경우 최근 우리나라 <오양선>을 참고하여 <오양선무>를 재창작한 반면 베트남의 경우 전승이 부재하였다. 그에 따라 전통문화콘텐츠 구축 프로젝트의 추진을 위해 베트남 공연단을 섭외하여 <월정전> 설화를 소재로 한 <치유의 쑥잎>이란 곡목을 창작케 하였다. 그 결과 오양선 설화를 소재로 한 3국의 춤을 한 무대에서 합연함으로써 아시아 악무의 공통적 서사 기반에 기초한 새로운 전통문화콘텐츠 구축의 시론적 방향성을 제시하고 나아가 춤을 통한 아시아 문화공동체 구축의 가능성을 모색하였다.

전통 상단예불의 음악적 특징 고찰 - 조계종과 태고종을 중심으로 - (A study on the Musical Characteristics of Traditional-Sangdanyebul - Focusing on the Jogye Order and Taego Order -)

  • 차형석
    • 공연문화연구
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    • 제35호
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    • pp.471-508
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    • 2017
  • 본 연구의 기본 취의는 역사적으로 문화적 친연성을 지닌 아시아권의 전통춤을 대상으로 한 전통문화콘텐츠 구축을 위한 한 방향성을 제시하는 데 있다. 이를 위해 우리나라의 당악정재 곡목인 <오양선(五羊仙)>을 한 예범으로 그 역사적, 문학적 근거를 통해 그 배경서사의 연원이 고대 남월(南越; 베트남) 지역의 오양선 설화에 있음을 확인하였다. 즉, 다섯 신선이 오색의 양을 타고 오양성(五羊城; 현재의 중국 광주(廣州))에 내려와 여섯 개의 벼이삭(六穗?)을 하사하였다는 설화이다. 나아가 후대에 쓰여진 베트남의 구전설화 <월정전(越井傳)>, 중국의 전기(傳奇) 작품인 <최위(崔?)>가 이 원(原)서사에서 비롯되었음을 확인하였다. 반면 우리나라 <오양선>의 창사에 나타난 배경서사는 원서사에 서왕모와 천도 모티프를 추가하여 군왕의 축수(祝壽)와 덕치, 나라의 태평성대를 축원하는 의례적 모티프를 강화하였다. 본고에서는 3국 내 오양선 서사의 이러한 공통성에 주목하여 그를 소재로 한 각국 전통춤의 전승 현황을 추적한 바 중국의 경우 최근 우리나라 <오양선>을 참고하여 <오양선무>를 재창작한 반면 베트남의 경우 전승이 부재하였다. 그에 따라 전통문화콘텐츠 구축 프로젝트의 추진을 위해 베트남 공연단을 섭외하여 <월정전> 설화를 소재로 한 <치유의 쑥잎>이란 곡목을 창작케 하였다. 그 결과 오양선 설화를 소재로 한 3국의 춤을 한 무대에서 합연함으로써 아시아 악무의 공통적 서사 기반에 기초한 새로운 전통문화콘텐츠 구축의 시론적 방향성을 제시하고 나아가 춤을 통한 아시아 문화공동체 구축의 가능성을 모색하였다.

한국에서 유라시아 문명교류사 연구의 성과와 과제 (A brief introduction to the research of cultural exchange of Eurasian Continent in Korea)

  • 권오영
    • 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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    • 제48권3호
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    • pp.166-185
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    • 2015
  • 최근 세계적으로 유라시아 대륙의 경제적 중요성이 부각되면서 동서를 연결하던 고대 교통로에 대한 연구의 필요성이 증대하고 있다. 국내 학계에서 유라시아 동서 문명 교섭에 대한 연구는 아직은 그다지 활발할 편이 아니지만 역사학, 고고학, 미술사, 민속학, 복식사 등 다양한 분야에서 꾸준히 연구를 진행시켜 왔다. 북방 초원길을 통한 교섭사는 한민족과 한국문화의 기원에 대한 관심에서 비롯되었는데, 몽골과 카자흐스탄지역의 유적에 대한 직접적인 조사가 꾸준히 이루어지면서 흉노, 쿠르간 문화 등으로 연구영역이 확장되고 있다. 사막과 오아시스의 길을 통한 교섭은 미술사 분야에서 연구를 주도해왔다. 이란, 우즈베키스탄, 아제르바이잔 등에 대한 현지조사가 다양한 경로를 통해 진행되면서 신라의 황금문화, 유리의 전래, 불교문화의 동전 등 다양한 주제에 대한 연구가 심화되고 있다. 바닷길에 대한 연구는 다른 분야에 비해 부진한 편이다. 동남아시아에 소재하는 불교와 힌두교 사원에 대한 관심은 적지 않았으나 이 유적들을 연결하는 바닷길의 복원과 그 의미에 대한 연구로 확산되어야 한다. 베트남의 돈 손 문화와 싸 후인 문화 유적을 국내 연구자들이 직접 조사하게 됨으로써 앞으로 이 분야 연구가 활성화될 것으로 기대된다. 앞으로는 한국사, 한국 문화와 직접 관련이 없는 주제에 대해서도 관심을 가져야 한다. 인류 공동의 문명을 연구하고 보존하는 것도 우리의 책임이기 때문이다.

편물의 역사적 고찰 -유럽의 편물 전통문양을 중심으로 - (The Historical Survey on Knitted Works - On the Basic of the Traditional Knitting Patterns of Europe -)

  • 이순홍;이선명
    • 복식
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    • 제50권7호
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    • pp.195-218
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    • 2000
  • This study investigates the characteristics of European knitted works from a historical perspective. Specifically, this study deals with the following research topics: 1) the origin and development of knitting. 2) the characteristics of knitting industry according to the change of times, 3) the comparison of local knitting patterns and cultures. 4) 7he symbolic meaning of the designs in the knitted works and theire functions. This research is barred on the survey of the relevant literature and photographs. The results of the study are summarized as follows. 1) The introduction of knitted works was closely connected with the climatic and socio-economic conditions of the places of the origin. Knitted work developed mostly in Northern Europe, a cold area, and the barren, mountainous coastal areas where people frequently used woolen materials for clothes. 2) In ancient times, abstract and geometric patterns have developed in Europe under the influence of Arabian knitted work. Middle Ages saw the flourishing of Arabian knitted works representing the authority of the church. In early modern times, the knitted work assumed the wealth of the royal families and the nobles. But afterward it was gradually Popularized among the middle classes. Knitting was then regarded as one of the women's major cultural activities. However, recently in the interwar periods. the knitting industry did not flourish and the knitted works came to serve merely as comfort goods by political urge. Knitted works were introduced in Korea around 1870 (the 7th or 8th year of king Kojong era) by Catholic missionaries and they started to be made by machine in 1917. 3) As for the propagation of the knitted work into Europe, there are three routes estimated. The traditional knitting patterns of local areas and their characteristics are summed up as follows : (1) England Guernseys are thick dark blue wool, whereas Jerseys are thinner and of various colors. The knitted shawls of Shetland are world-famous for their fine, lace-like texture that they can be through a wedding-ring. The knitted work of Fair Isle shows several distinctive features, such as the use of no more than two colors, patterns with diagonal lines. symmetry within the patterns, the prominent OXO patterns, and horizontal bands of patterning. The representative knitted work of Aran is Aran sweater made for fishermen to developed from guernseys of Scotland. (2) Scandinavian countries are distinguished from other countries by their conservative but creative cultural tradition. Their knitting patterns are characterized by small geometric figures such as dots, triangles, squares, rhombuses, and crosses used often with stars and roses. Scandinavian knitting is also salient for its vertical stripes and simple motifs repeating at short intervals. (3) Baltic area : The Latvian and Lithuania stockings have very ornate patterns. Many of the Estonian knit stockings and mittens share designs. Komi was well-known for its symmetric diamond pattern. Komi patterns include colored stripes, borders of pattern and all-over designs of complex diagonals. (4) Balkan area : In Yugoslavia, the patterns of roses, leaves and flowers were used for stockings, gloves and leggings. Greek knitting resembled southern Russian knitting, which utilized light colored patterns with dark colors for a background. Turkish patterns are symmetric vertically or horizontally. 4) The traditional knitting patterns net only carried symbolic meanings but also served as means of communication. First of all, patterns had incantatory meanings. Patterns also represented Power or authenticity Patterns were symbolic of one's social standing, too. The colors, motifs and their arrangements were very important features symbolizing one's social position or family line. People often communicated by certain pieces of knitted work or patterns.

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구약성서(舊約聖書)에 나타난 히브리인의 복식(服飾) - 두식(頭飾), 신발 및 장신구(裝身具) 중심(中心)으로 - ("A Study on Hebrews Clothing in the Old Testament" - Especially on Hair Styles, Headgears, Footwear and Personal Ornaments -)

  • 박찬부
    • 복식
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    • 제10권
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    • pp.63-80
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    • 1986
  • The Old Testament cotains mention of the history of creation and clothing in ancient Hebrew. This study dealt with Hebrew dress customs especially aimed at the manners of their hair styles, headgears, footwear and personal ornaments. References are Korean Revised Version, English King James Version and Revised Standard Version. There is little mention of hair styles and headgears in the Old Testament. Some sort of turban was worn by priests, and soldiers protected themselves with helmets, but most Israelitish men went bareheaded except on special occasions and often wear simple headbands. It was more common for women to use headwear of some type-turbans, scarves, and veils concealing the face. The veil was the distinctive female wearing apparel. All females, with the exception of maidservants and women in a low condition of life, wore a veil. It was the custom for women to wear a veil entirely covering their head in the public. Through most of the Old Testament periods long and thick hair was admired on men and women alike. The Hebrews were proud to have thick and abundant long hair, and they gave much attention to the care of their hair. The caring of hair was deeply related to their rituals. Nazirites never took a razor to their hair during his vow-days, but instead let it grow long, as an offering to God. Men would not cut their beards, but allow them to grow long. The Israelites' standard footwear was a pair of simple leather sandals. This was one of the items of clothing not highly prized. In a colloquial saying of the time, a pair of shoes signified something of small value, and to be barefoot except in times of mourning or on holy place, was a sign either of extreme poverty or humiliation, as in the case of war prisoners. Because precious stones were not mined in the Palestine-Syria region, Hebrews imported them from foreign country. They were consumer-to a large degree limited by their very modest standard of living-but not producers. Hebrews liked the precious stones and were motivated to acquire and wear jewels. Besides their use for adornment and as gifts, the precious or semiprecious stones were regarded by Jews of property. The Hebrews were not innovators in the field of decorative arts. The prohibition of the Law against making any "graven image" precluded the development of painting, sculpture, and other forms of representational art. Jewish men did not indulge in extravagances of dress, and there was little ornamentation among them. Men wore a signet ring on their right hand or sometimes suspended by a cord or chain around the neck. The necklaces, when worn by a male, also bore any symbol of his authority. Bracelets were extremely popular with both men and women, men usually preferring to wear them on their upper arms. The girdle was a very useful part of a man's clothing. It was used as a waist belt, or used to fasten a man's sword to his body, or served as a pouch in which to keep money and other things. Men often carried a cane or staff, which would be ornamented at the top. Among the women there was more apt to be ornamentation than among the men. Hebrew women liked to deck themselves with jewels, and ornamentation of the bride were specially luxurious and numerous. They wore rings on their fingers or On toes, ankle rings, earrings, nosering, necklace, bracelets. Their shapes were of cresent, waterdrops, scarab, insect, animal or plant. Sometimes those were used as amulets. They were made of ceramics, gold, silver, bronze, iron, and various precious stones which were mostly imported from Egypt and Sinai peninsular. Hebrews were given many religious regulations by Moses Law on their hair, headgears, sandals and ornamentation. Their clothing were deeply related with their customs especially with their religions and rituals. Hebrew religion was of monotheism and of revealed religion. Their religious leaders, the prophets who was inspired by God might need such many religious regulations to lead the idol oriented people to God through them.

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