• Title/Summary/Keyword: ancient Greece

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The Form of Dress related to the Ideal Beauty of Body - from Ancient Egypt to the Romantic Period- (인체에 대한미의식에 따른 복식형태 -고대 이집트에서 낭만주의 시대까지-)

  • Ryu Ki-Joo;Kim Min-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.16 no.4 s.44
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    • pp.357-369
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    • 1992
  • The purpose of this study was to clarify the relationship between the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress, and to analyze its historical perspectives. First of all, the concept of the Ideal Beauty of Body, the definition of Dress Form, and the method and system to clarify Dress Form were depicted. Based on this frame work, the Form of Dress related to the Ideal Beauty of Body was described historically. For this purpose, documentary research were conducted and representative photography and paintings were used. The analysis was limited to the female one-Piece dress from Ancient Egypt, Greece, Rome, Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Naoclassicism, and to Romanticism. The results were as follows: 1. The Ideal Beauty of Body was found to be different throughout history and to be intimate- ly linked with fashionable dress. 2. The Form of Dress consisted of four basic components: The form of body itself, the form of clothing itself, the method of wearing, and the relationship between body and clothing. 3. The standards for classification of body form were body structure, body type, body proportion, posture, and movement. Clothing form was generally classified into flat type (unstructured type) and three dementional type (structured type); flat type was subclassified into draped type and tunic type. The method of wearing was classified into attached type, tying-up type, wrap·around type, pull-over type, open type and plastistic type. The relationship between body and clothing after wearing was generally classified into body priority type and clothing priority type. The clothing priority type was further divided into body exaggeration type and body concealment type; Body exaggeration type was further divided into upward type, downward type, forward type, backward type, right type and constriction type. 4. The pursuit of venus coelestis, metaphysical body part, ectomorphic body type, flat type clothing, body priority type; the pursuit of Venus Naturalis, physical body part, endomorphic body type, three dementional type clothing, clothing priority type proved to be closely related respectively by the historical study on the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress.

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Conservation of the Ancient Greek Bronze Helmet donated by Sohn Keechung (손기정 기증 고대 그리스 청동제투구의 보존처리)

  • Park, Haksoo;Jeong, Subin
    • Conservation Science in Museum
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    • v.14
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    • pp.69-79
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    • 2013
  • The area of conservation treatment of the bronze helmet of the ancient Greece, treasure No. 904, which Sohn Keechung (1912 to 2002) received as an extra prize for his winning the marathon in the 1936 Berlin Olympics deteriorated and as a result crack and discoloration occurred. Its nose guard hung downward due to the crack of the bonded area of upper end. Therefore, conservation treatment of the helmet was conducted again. The nose guard was separated from the body. Stabilization and consolidation treatment of them was made and then they were joined again. The cracked and missing areas were reinforced with woven glass fibers, and the nose guard was reinforced with woven glass fibers and Ti plate after the bonding. The joined area of the nose guard was carved with the same pattern as that of the surrounding area and its color was adjusted to be the same as well.

Analysis on Gender Characteristics Expressed in Male and Female Costume During the Ancient Greek Age (그리스 시대의 남성복과 여성복에 표현된 젠더(gender) 특성 분석)

  • Yi, Myoung-Hee;Choi, Yoonmi
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.4
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    • pp.84-100
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    • 2013
  • Ancient Greece was a patriarchal society that distinguished gender roles between men and women. Although their costumes were composed of simple rectangular fabric without any technical complications in itself, the Greeks did try to express gender differences in their clothing. The final look of the Greek costume was dependent on the way the cloth draped onto its wearer as well as the wearer's identity. Greeks costume could just be seen as a rectangular fabric when it was not draped on a person's body. The purpose of this study is to examine how the gender differences were expressed in the ancient Greek drapery costume, which was made by using a completely different technical process, compared with the modern tailored costume. There are four elements of the costume that give the costume its formative shape, which are the wearer's body, the rectangular fabric (material as the first formative costume), the way the fabric is draped, and the final appearance as the second formative costume (the relationship between the wearer's body and the costume) and this study analyzes these elements individually. It is intended to analyze the gender characteristics and how each element appears in a different way from the perspective of Structuralism, an analytical method that considers a phenomenon as a total sum of the elements. Literature research was conducted and representative sculpture, painting and pottery, were used between the Archaic Period (B.C. 800~500) and the Classical Period (B.C. 500~323). The results show that the gender differences appear in each formative element of costume: First, the body was distinguished by the ancient Greek custom. The man's nudity was accepted while the woman's body was concealed. Second, in regards to the first formative costume, which was the rectangular fabric, men's were made with thick high quality wool because their involvement in outdoor activities meant that they needed clothes to stay warm, while the women wore clothes made of thin wool or hemp cloth, because their most of their activities were at home. Third, the way to drape the fabric shows the gender differences by changing the length of the clothing and its design ; men's short khiton was practical for big movement and at the same time the clothing exposed the man's body. The woman's doric khiton diversified its decoration by the size of the apotigma and by using the belt. Finally the second formative costume reflected the Greeks' social distinction between a man's body and a woman's body. The man's costume naturally exposed the man's body. On the other hand, the woman's long costume has a variety of shapes on the ground, that concealed her lower body, while the ornamental function was more accentuated than the man's costume. The gender differences expressed in Greek costume fundamentally reflected the point of view of the male and female body and their social roles in society.

Comparison between the Persian textile design and the Byzantine textile design in their patterns (페르시아 직물문양과 비잔틴 직물문양의 조형성 비교)

  • Kim Young Oak
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.11 no.3 s.25
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    • pp.1-14
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    • 1987
  • The purpose of this study was to compare with the Persian texile design having an out-standing skill in fertile designs with the Byzantine textile dosing being influenced a lot by Christinity and many Oriental factors including Hellenism. These two textile design have some similarities and differences in their patterns. The results of the study were as follows: Similarities ; 1. The Persian traditional animals, hunting scenes and cavaliers are used as the major subject in both patterns. 2. Decorative designs enclosed circular are used in both patterns. Differences ; 1. The Persian textile designs are based on Zoroasterianism, and their animal designs have the Zoroasterian religious meanings. While the Byzantine designs are affected by the Christianity. In the Byantine textile designs, the mythical subjects from ancient Rome and Greece, and the circus scenes are dominent. 3. The Persian textile designs are combative, momentary, dignifed, and realistic pattern, while the Byzantin textile designs are playful, sketchy, humouristic, and evasive pattern. 4. Vivid color effect was found in the Persian textile patterns: however, more refined and gorgeous color was used by the Byzantine textile patterns. Thus, the Persian and the Byzantine textile patterns have interrelations with each other. In general, the Persian textile patterns have affected a great deal on the Byzantine textine textile patterns. They are essentially corelated with each other, but each of them has its own characteristics.

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A Study of the Aesthetics of Mimesis in 2000s Fashion (2000년대 패션에 표현된 미메시스 연구)

  • Yang, Su-Mi;Kwon, Mi-Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.10
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    • pp.38-50
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    • 2009
  • Since Homeros in Greece, Mimesis was thought to be an art to imitate the nature, and it means an imitation of the nature classically. Mimetic theories were set to be a kind of art work in the era of Renaissance, and the terminology of mimesis was widely used to replace it with an originality in the 15th century. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetics of mimesis expressed in 2000s fashion. For this purpose, I investigated the theories of the mimesis, categorized the definition, then applied those categories for 2000s fashion. Documentary studies were conducted through aesthetics, fashion books and demonstrative studies were processed by analyzing photos from collection fashion magazines and fashion site of internet. In the history of aesthetics, the mimesis could be defined into three categories; the similarity and the representation mimesis, the symbol mimesis and the abstraction mimesis. In fashion, the representation mimesis included a natural and a folk, a period that of 1900s and ancient representation mimesis. The symbol mimesis included psychology and fear symbol mimesis. The abstraction mimesis included hard color, a geometric simplification and distortion mimesis. Analysis on the mimesis expressed in 2000s modern fashion may provide an excellent method for understanding human aesthetic in costume.

A Study on the Relationship between the Costume of Court Masque and English Renaissance Fashion -Focusing on the Elizabethan and Jacobean Period- (르네상스시대 궁정가면극 의상과 영국복식의 관계성 연구 -엘리자베스 1세와 제임스 1세 통치기간을 중심으로-)

  • 배수정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.3
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    • pp.1-18
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    • 2002
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between costumes of court masque and the fashion trend at that time, by the analysis of the portraits. The period in this thesis is from Elizabeth I (1588-1603), until James I (1603-1625), when Inigo Jones was actively involved in court in masque, and when the traits of court masque began to appear in costume. The research material of this thesis is from the papers, costume design sketches, portraits and miniatures. As a result the costume of court masque which is the mixture of that of ancient Greece, Rome, middle age, and the exotic style of Ireland and Persian, had a great impact on the general fashion, and the unique pattern f costume became prevalent in the end of 16th and the early 17th century. This thesis might help us understand and special costume of that age and study the way how it come to have an influence on the fashion of the costume pertaining mainly to the privileged class.

A Study of the Mimesis in Internet Online Video Game Apparel Design (인터넷 온라인게임 의상디자인에 표현된 미메시스 연구)

  • Yang, Su-Mi;Kwon, Mi-Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.8
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    • pp.1-17
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    • 2011
  • Ever since Homeros in Greece, Mimesis was thought to be an art that imitates nature, especially the classicism of nature. Mimetic theories were used in the artworks in the era of the Renaissance, and the terminology 'mimesis' replaced the idea of originality in the 15th century. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetics of mimesis expressed in Online video game apparel design. For this purpose, I researched different theories of 'mimesis' and applied them to Online video game apparel designs. The research was conducted using various books on aesthetics and fashion, and demonstrative studies were processed by analyzing photos from Internet video game websites. In the history of aesthetics, the term mimesis is divided into three categories: external, internal and multiple mimesis. External mimesis represented the historical point of view in the design, which showed the beauty of the ancient times. Internal mimesis displayed the metaphorical symbols of religion, character, psychology, sexuality and fear. Multiple mimesis was the hybrid and the distortion of the different aspects of mimesis. Applying this research on mimesis and expressing them in Online video game design may be an excellent method for understanding human aesthetics in video game apparels.

A Study of the Mimesis in Media Costume Design (미디어의상 디자인에 표현된 미메시스 연구)

  • Yang, Su-Mi;Kwon, Mi-Jeong
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.13 no.3
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    • pp.309-320
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    • 2011
  • Since Homeros in Greece, Mimesis was thought to be an art to imitate the nature, and it means an imitation of the nature classically. Mimetic theories were set to be a kind of art work in the era of Renaissance, and the terminology of mimesis was widely used to replace it with an originality in the 15th century. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetics of mimesis expressed in media costume design. For this purpose, I investigated the theories of the mimesis, categorized the definition, then applied those categories for media costume design. Documentary studies were conducted through aesthetics, fashion books and demonstrative studies were processed by analyzing photos from collection fashion magazines and media DVD, video, fashion site of internet. In the history of aesthetics, the mimesis could be defined into three categories; the external representation mimesis, the internal symbol mimesis and the multiful meta mimesis. In media costume, the representation mimesis included design historical point of view, a period that of 1900s and ancient representation mimesis. The internal mimesis included symbol of religion, character, riches, psychology and fear mimesis. The multiful meta mimesis included hybrid and distortion mimesis. Analysis on the mimesis expressed in media costume design fashion may provide an excellent method for understanding human aesthetic in costume.

THE RENAISSANCE REVISITED: FROM A SILK ROAD PERSPECTIVE

  • KIM, TSCHUNG-SUN
    • Acta Via Serica
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    • v.3 no.1
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    • pp.11-25
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    • 2018
  • The Renaissance is generally said to be the rebirth of the ancient civilizations of Greece and Rome, and was centered around Italy from the 14th to the 16th century. This includes the temporal peculiarity of the Renaissance as a sudden phenomenon after the Medieval Ages, and the spatial peculiarity of what happened only in Europe. However, if we remove the European-centered bias here, the horizon for interpreting the Renaissance becomes much wider. There have been claims that similar cultural phenomena resembling the Renaissance existed in other civilizations at the same time. This paper seeks to investigate two possibilities. The first is the possibility of a spatial expansion of the Renaissance. This suggests that the Renaissance was created by long-term exchanges with the Eastern, Middle and Western Hemispheres. The second is the possibility of a simultaneity of the Renaissance in the 14th and 16th centuries. This suggests that it was a global phenomenon that occurred in different civilizations. The Renaissance, therefore, was a crystallization of a complex of civilizations created by the crossing of various cultures along the Silk Road, and should be referred to as the 'Global Renaissance' instead of the 'Western Renaissance.'

A study of creating character which has the image of ideal human body (이상적 몸의 이미지를 갖춘 캐릭터의 창작 연구)

  • Kim, Boo-Ja
    • Journal of Korea Game Society
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    • v.3 no.2
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    • pp.86-92
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    • 2003
  • Today, the visual description of body is viewed in various categories, and the circumstance of computers is regarded as new type of communication beyond the circumstance of individual body. In cyber space, when existence and role of character in computer game constitute communication, the ideal body description of each character depicts dramatic beauty, which rises above reality. On this thesis, analyzing the body description and transition on visual in, I grope for a method to utilize in creating game character which is modeled from ideal human being. Although the progress of producing character has already come to limit, concluding that we have to create character model which has marked individuality and beauty by adding modem and future analysis to the golden ratio, which has established since ancient Greece, this paper suggests the method of creating character which has the image of ideal human body.

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