• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.27-38
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• 1985

In KOREA, the history of weaving is so long even in prinitive, there are the traces of fabric emmision using Spindle already in the Neolithic age. And coming up to the period of Three States, becoming active of cultivation of fibers, it can be known the variety of kinds and the production of fine products by improvement of new method of weaving using weaving machine. In the period of shilla state, there is a record of making the fine fabrics with 28 bracts. But wearing of silks fabrics was limitted for only the nobility and common people were wearing native thick hemp clothes. Also in the period of Korea state, they were wearing the hemp clothes by cultivation of hemp. The good quality products were worn by the King or the nobility and women in KOREA made their best with whole efforts to pay to the authorities with woven products of hemp clothes, so in the 14th year of King Chung- Ryul, King prohibited the presentation of fine hemp clothes by his order. By the end of KOREA state, before the production, common people was mainly wearing the hemp clothes. Coming up to the Kingdom of Chosun the sericulture was promoted by establishment of the sericulture encouraging low. Therefore the working hours of women were highly increased. The products of Song-do, Chin-ju for cotton clothes, those of Han-san-the same now as in old times-for ramie clothes, those of Han-Kyung province and An-dong for hemp fabrics were estimated as the best qualities. And the hemp clothes of Kang-won province is not so fine but is very useful and famous for mourning clothes and summer clothes for the farmer. It is true that our history of weaving was begun with hemp as a continous and precious friend of common people during all the historical periods-even though for a while it went backward because of chinese silks.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.191-201
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• 2021

In this study, an eco-friendly indigo reduction system(scale up reduction, use of buffer solution, and pH control) using baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was applied for natural indigo(Polygonum tinctorium) dyeing of Hanji fabric and Hanji-mixture fabric(Hanji/Cotton, Hanji/Silk). The effect of concentration of baker's yeast, repeat dyeing, and bath reuse was investigated in terms of dye uptake indicating reduction power. And the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) was monitored. We also evaluated color properties and colorfastness according to the color strength. The yeast concentration did not significantly affect the maximum reduction power. However, the highest yeast concentration was effective in improving the initial dye uptake, and its the reduction retention power was the most excellent. Even on the last reduction day, the effect of increasing the dye uptake by repeat dyeing was observed. And it was confirmed that the reduction bath could be reused for up to 30 days by supplementing yeast at the end of reduction. For all the fabrics used, deeper and darker PB color were obtained by repeat dyeing. As dyeing was repeated, purplish tint got stronger on the Hanji/Silk fabric compared to other fabrics. Regardless of the composition of Hanji fabrics and color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastness were relatively good with above rating 4-5, and fastness to rubbing and light were acceptable with a rating 3-4 ~ 4-5. The eco-friendly natural indigo dyeing process using niram and baker's yeast would offer global marketability and diversity of Hanji product as a sustainable high value-added material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Radiology
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.865-872
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• 2023

The purpose of this study was to analyze fabrics suitable for use as examination gowns to determine whether examination gowns affect imaging during anterior to posterior chest examinations(Chest AP) on a digital X-ray system. Examination gowns in use at five medical centers in Seoul were collected and included modal, tencel, cotton, and rayon fabrics. The selection of fabrics was based on studies that reported fabrics with good tactile, absorbent, stretchable, and wrinkle resistance. Phantoms of five hospital gowns and four fabrics, arranged in overlapping layers from one to eight, were created and examined on a digital X-ray system in both Chest AP examination. The images examined were subjected to a first-step profile analysis, a second-step signal intensity averaging analysis, and a third-step microscopic analysis. The results showed that all nine materials had an increasing impact on the image as the number of layers of fabric increased, with the modal fabric having the least impact on the image in the first, second, and third analyses. In conclusion, as the resolution of digital x-ray systems increases, the impact of examination clothing on the image will increase, and research to find suitable materials for examination clothing will continue to be necessary.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.311-318
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• 2010

Antimicrobial finishing of textiles has been found to be an economical way to prevent (or treat) skin disorders. Hence, this research effort was aimed at elucidating the relationship between the molecular weight (MW) of chitosan and its antimicrobial activity upon six dermal reference microorganisms, as well as the influence of the interactions with cotton fabrics on said activity. Using 3 chitosans with different MWs, as well as two chitooligosaccharide (COS) mixtures, a relevant antimicrobial effect was observed by 24 h for the six microorganisms tested; it was apparent that the antimicrobial effect is strongly dependent on the type of target microorganism and on the MW of chitosan - being higher for lower MW in the case of E. coli, K. pneumoniae, and P. aeruginosa, and the reverse in the case of both Gram-positive bacteria. Furthermore, a strong antifungal effect was detectable upon C. albicans, resembling the action over Gram-positive bacteria. Interactions with cotton fabric resulted in a loss of COS activity when compared with cultured media, relative to the effect over Gram-negative bacteria. However, no significant differences for the efficacy of all the 5 compounds were observed by 4 h. The three chitosans possessed a higher antimicrobial activity when impregnated onto the fabric, and presented a similar effect on both Gram-positive bacteria and yeast, in either matrix. Pseudomonas aeruginosa showed to be the most resistant microorganism to all five compounds.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.10
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• pp.1559-1570
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• 2008

Since brought into from the economic life of nomads, the felt, the target of this study, has been developed in various ways of giving the functions of class symbol as well of protection against the cold and of ornamentation. Therefore, the study on how the felt was developed in Joseon Dynasty and how different culture from nomadic tribes it formed is significant in comprehensively under,;landing the economic, social and natural environmental factors in the Dynasty. The felt named "Jeon" has been constantly appearing in Korea from the ancient time, but it was not produced actively in the early part of Joseon Dynasty. That's why it was not a climatic condition suitable for sheep-breeding, and the government managed sheep-breeding but it aimed primarily at not producing clothing materials but having memorial ceremonies. Since sheep-breeding was not widely spreaded, production of Jeon was limited and some part was imported from China, so it was one of rare valuable goods. Therefore, the felt of wools named "Yangmojeon", the colored felt named "Chaejeon", etc. were used as liking items in the high-class society, and their materials and components were a little different depending on the official post. On the other hand, people in the low-class society used to wear the felt hats made of cattle feathers and miscellaneous fur, named "Jeonlip" and "Beougeoji". Since the middle of Joseon Dynasty, use of the felt was divided into two groups according to the users and the function, along with successful spreading of cotton and development of market economy. The function of Jeon to protect against the cold was replaced by cotton, but the felt hats of Beongeoji, Jeonlip, etc. were worn by common people continuously. As seen above, it is considered that the felt culture in Joseon Dynasty was formed very differently from the nomadic culture, because of its historical and sociocultural characteristics, and it had unique developing progress among all available fabrics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.26-38
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• 1998

This paper is based on a survey of consumers 'opinions on underwears. The questions in the survey dealt with what materials were used to manufacture underwears, which underwears were worn together in combinations, and how comfortable underwears were. In addition, the respondents were asked about how many pieces of different underwears they posses. Through such research, this paper aims to provide a guide to manufacturing domestic underwears that are competitive against foreign bands. 336 women in their twenties, thirties, forties and fifties from Seoul and it's suburbs were surveyed. Statistical analysis was performed by calculating the average, frequency and standard deviation, and through one-way analysis and the Duncan test. The following are the results of the study : 1. Consumers were moderately satisfied with Korean-made underwears. In order to complete with foreign brands, products with high consumer-satisfaction levels must be produced. 2. Upper garments usually consisted of brassieres with shoulder straps and sleeveless shirts. For lower underwears, most people tended to wear panties under girdle, with garlets on top. This is most likely the resut of more people wearing slacks than skirts. 3. Consumer in their twenties had anaverage of 1.71 slips, while those in their thirties had 3.07, those in their forties and 3.25, and people in their fifties had 3.88 slips. Thus the number of slips a consumer possesses increases as age increases. for socks, people in their twenties had 7.4 pairs on average, those in their thirties had 5.5, those in their forties had 6.7, and those in their fifties had 5.3. Thus, those in their twenties possessed the most number of socks. Consumers in their twenties also had the largest proportion of socks among all the types of hosiery combined, with 47.1% of their hosiery being socks. 4. Consumers did tend to prefer cotton underwears, but according to the type of underwears, producting using mixed fabrics of cotton and synthetic fibers were also frequently worn. 5. The shape and form of underwear that consumers prefer in a ceratin time frame varies according to the latest fashion in outer wear. Therefore, planning design of underwear products by predicting the future trend of outer wear fashion is necessary.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.12
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• pp.1477-1485
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• 2011

Dyeability and colorfastness of the blended knits of cotton/rayon (40/60; C/R) and wool/tencel (10/90; W/T) are examined using the natural dyestuff ($Pinux^{TM}$) manufactured from Pinus radiata pine bark extract. In addition, pre-treatments (such as bleaching, mercerization and cationization) are performed to improve dyeability and colorfastness. The $Pinux^{TM}$ powder dyestuffs produced by Pinux Co., Ltd. are used as dyestuffs and their properties are examined for dyeing concentration (0.5-2% (owb)), dyeing time (30-120 minutes) and dyeing temperature (30-$90^{\circ}C$). Dyeability is evaluated with K/S value at 400nm, which is the maximum absorption wavelength for $Pinux^{TM}$. The results show the dyeability of W/T sample containing protein fiber with $Pinux^{TM}$ is superior to all cellulose fiber C/R. A concentration of dyestuff greater than 1.5% (owb), dyeing time 120 minutes and dyeing temperature of $90^{\circ}C$ are the most optimized conditions. It shows that the dyeability of C/R and W/T samples are high in the condition of an acid-dyeing bath and that dyeability highly declined in alkaline bath due to the instability of the proanthocyanidin pigment. After analyzing the effect of bleaching, mercerizing and cationizing (as pre-treatments on dyeability) it was concluded that the dyeability of the C/R sample was enhanced by mercerization but no significant effect by cationization. However, the simultaneous treatment of cationizing and dyeing resulted in far improved dyeability compared to dyeing after cationizing pre-treatment. As for the W/T sample, the effect of cationization was more prominent than the C/R sample. Colorfastness to color changes in the control W/T sample was higher than that of C/R's level 1-2, and it increased to Level 2 when bleaching pre-treatment was given and when a simultaneous cationizing treatment was adopted to the dyeing process. Colorfastness to light in W/T control sample resulted in Level 3 and further increased to an excellent Level of 4 with bleaching and simultaneous cationizing during dyeing process.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.135-145
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• 2017

In order to analysis on color difference of yellow natural dyes, I have dyed cellulose and protein fabrics. The results of experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, amounts of dye uptake, color difference, Hunter's value and Munsell's value. The results from these analyses are as follows : Bud of pagoda tree, Amur cork, and Curcuma showed greenish yellow color, Gardenia Jasminoides showed reddish yellow color. Barberry root showed reddish yellow color with post-mordanting method on cellulose fabric. Moreover, Dupioni silk was dyed in reddish yellow color by Barberry root and Rhubarb. In addition to Chroma index, Gardenia Jasminoides and Curcuma showed clear color overall. However, dyeing rayon and silk by Barberry root, and dyeing silk by Rhubarb showed clear color. Comparing all the results to actual dyed materials, Bud of pagoda tree had small dye uptake, and both ${\Delta}a$ and ${\Delta}b$ value were short which can't recognized the yellow color easily. Dye uptake of Amur cork and Gardenia Jasminoides was small just like Bud of pagoda tree. However, ${\Delta}b$ value order was Gardenia Jasminoides>Amur cork>Bud of pagoda tree. Therefore, Gardenia Jasminoides recognized reddish yellow because of big value of red color and yellow color. In case of Barberry root and Rhubarb which have larger dye uptake, Baberry root recognized yellow color on rayon only, and couldn't recognized yellow color on bleached cotton fabric, ramie, silk, and dupioni silk. Rhubarb recognized yellow color on rayon with pre-mordanting method only, but recognized silk and dupioni silk as brown like color. Moreover, we could not analyze color by dye uptake, Lab, and H(v/c) for Barberry root and Rhubarb. As a result, I think we need to attach color table for the research paper which handled the color of dyeing materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.991-998
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• 2008

This study is to determine the effects of PCM concentration on the temperature changes of the air layers of a garment when the environmental temperature changes. The selected PCM was Nonadecane and coated on cotton fabrics with PCM concentrations 10%, 20%, and 30%. The temperature changes of the air layers between fabrics were measured by Human-Clothing-Environment Simulator which measure a dynamic heat transfer. After stabilizing at $34^{\circ}C$ for 1 hour, the multi layered garment system were exposed to $5^{\circ}C$ or $10^{\circ}C$ for 30 minutes and then, exposed to $34^{\circ}C$ for 30minutes. The results like following could be obtained. When the environmental temperature changed high to low, temperature of the air layer increased by heating effect of PCM. In the contrast, when the environmental temperature changed low to high, the temperature increase of the air layer was delayed because of cooling effect by PCM. Also, the more concentration of PCM, the bigger the heating effect. Cooling effect showed more clearly at PCM concentration 20%. The temperature differences of the air layers between with PCM fabrics and with non-PCM fabrics were bigger at $10^{\circ}C$ than at $5^{\circ}C$. Consequently, though PCM has influenced on the temperature of the air layer by heating and cooling effect, those effects haven't shown in all layers equally. It was shown that the effect of PCM varied according to the layer in the case of multi layered garment system and heat gain as well as heat loss in the outermost layer had to be taken into account.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.140-146
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• 1999

Colorants in green tea were extracted freeze-dried and analyzed to investigate the possibility of using as a natural dye. Fractionation of the colorants was carried out by column chromatograpy. Colorants in green tea were eluted into five fractions. All the fractions except fraction F2 showed absorption peakat 280nm. Fraction f2 showed absorption peak at 270nm and broad peak at 350nm, From the IR analysis it is speculated that fractions F2-F5 having similar stucture but different molecular weight are catechis. Silk fabrics dyes with fractions F1-F4 showed yellowish red color while sample dyed with fraction F5 showed red color. The colorants from green tea infusion was applied to silk wool nylon cotton and rayon fabrices. It showed relatively good affinity to protein and polyamide fibers bur low affinity to cellulose and regenerated cellulose fibers.