• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.75-82
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• 2013

The traditional Hanji-making was confronted with lots of industrial disadvantages and economic problems, due to the original hand-made process. Recently, the studies on the automation of overall Hanji manufacturing process is carried out by applying the commercial chemical pulping method in order to expand industrial application or efficiency of non-wood fibrous materials. However, the application of commercial pulping methods to the bast tissues of paper mulberry leads to the chemical and mechanical deterioration of cellulosic fibers. In this study, the optimal cooking method using the bast parts of paper mulberry produced by an auto-scraping device was applied to minimize the damage of fiber strength for the paper yarn manufacture. The pre-steaming treatment and alkaline pulping systems were evaluated in removal efficiency of lignin and pectin materials within the bast tissue of paper mulberry. With the application of pre-steaming treatment and 2 stage pulping system using potassium carbonate and then sodium hydroxide, kappa values were decreased two times more in lignin removal than the single stage of pulping method. It was also identified from SEM images and ATR-FTIR spectra that the pectin components within cellular structure of bast tissue were easily removed and the debarked bast parts by a auto-scraping device were easily defiberized by 2-stage pulping sequence using potassium carbonate/sodium hydroxide pulping system.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.03a
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• pp.95-95
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• 2011

가방지 중에서 고급 브랜드의 핸드백은 근래의 세계적인 경기불황에서도 꾸준한 소비층을 형성하면서 매출 상승을 유도하고 있는데, 기존 40~50대 시니어들을 위한 전통적인 레자 또는 자카드 문양직물의 고유한 디자인 뿐만 아니라 20~30대의 젊은 층을 위한 다양한 칼라의 프린팅 문양 직물도 많이 개발되고 있는 실정이다. 본 연구는 잠재권축사와 고강력PET를 이용하여 이소재 복합 ATY를 제조하고 제직 및 날염을 통해 다양한 프린팅 문양을 발현할 수 있는 가방지용 직물 개발에 관한 것이다. 최근의 캐주얼 및 힙합룩은 물론, 베이직 정장 차림까지 트렌디한 우븐 백이 코디 아이템 1호로 떠오르고 있는데, 가방용 브랜드 중"레스포색"과 "키플링" 등이 급상승 기류를 타며 국내에 빠르게 정착하고 있으며 수입 브랜드인 경전상사의 "롱샴"도 폴딩백으로 인기를 누리고 있다. 핫 이슈인 스포티즘을 떠올리지 않더라도 최근의 변화는 소비자의 니즈를 적극 수용하려는 패션잡화 업체들의 움직임을 대변하고 있으며, 직물형태의 백이 합리적인 가격에서나 가볍고 편리한 실용적인 부분 모두 소비자의 니즈를 채워주기에 충분하고, 트렌드가 부각된 가방일수록 시즌에 따라 스피디하게 구매가 이뤄지고 있다는 장점이 있어서, 최신 트렌드의 디자인과 재료 효과를 극대화한 제품이 다수 선보이고 있다. 본 연구에서는 이러한 다양한 트렌드 디자인의 문양 발현을 위한 직물을 위해 PET Base의 잠재권축사와 PET 고강력사를 사용하였는데, 이때 사용되는 잠재권사는 Effect사로써 온도, Air압 등의 공정요소 제어를 통해 Soft한 touch을 위한 잔루프를 발현하도록 하였으며, PET 고강력사는 Core사로 사용함으로써 잠재권축사의 강도를 보강하여 가방지로써 요구되는 강력을 가질 수 있도록 하였다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.03a
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• pp.94-94
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• 2011

스포츠웨어 바람막이용도에 사용되는 대부분의 소재는 폴리아미드계 소재이며, 국내에서는 대부분 나일론6 소재를 사용하고 있다. 최근 소비자들의 요구는 점점 경량화되고 있고 야외활동 증가와 더불어 착용감이 우수한 소재를 요구하고 있다. 이러한 시즘에 국내에서 많이 사용되는 나일론6 소재를 이용하여 직물단계에서 경량감과 스트레치성이 발현될수 있는 나일론6 세섬 권축사 개발에 대한 연구를 진행하고자 함이다. 본 연구에서는 직물단계에서 경량감과 스트레치성이 발현될수 있는 나일론6 세섬 권축사 개발을 위해 공중합 나일론6 폴리머와 일반 나일론6 폴리머를 복합방사설비를 이용하여 SIDE BY SIDE POY 26d/6f 원사를 제조하였다. 원사물성은 섬도 25.8d, 절단신도 71%, 절단강도 4.3g/d의 물성을 가졌으며, Nip Belt 가연설비로 연신비, 가연 1st 히터온도, 벨트각도 조건에 따라서 제조된 나일론6 가연사 DTY 20d/6f의 물성을 평가하였고, 비교사로서 T사에서 생산되고 있는 나일론6 가연사 DTY 20d/6f와 비교평가하였다. 비수탄성율은 가연 연신비가 높고, 1st 히터온도가 높은 조건에서 높게 나타남을 알 수 있었으며, 염색 가공 공정에서의 전처리단계에서 $100^{\circ}C$정도의 열을 받았을 때의 수축에 따른 권축효과 발현에 따른 신축성 변화에 대한 상대평가를 사단계에서 유추할 수 있다. 권축효과가 높게 나타난다 하더라도, 사의 수축힘이 적으면 권축효과 발현특성에 큰 차이가 없으므로 열응력을 측정을 한 결과, 가연 연신비가 높고 가연 1st 히터온도가 높은 조건에서 열응력이 높게 나타남을 알 수 있었으며, 비교사에 비해 약간 높은 열응력 값을 보였다. 절단강도는 가연조건에 따라서 큰 변화가 없었고, 절단신도는 연신비가 증가함에 따라 점차 감소하였으며 비교사와도 큰 차이를 보이지 않았음. 따라서, POY 26d/6f 원사에 적합하고, 권축효과가 우수한 가연조건을 도출하였고, 가연현장 작업시 문제가 없는 가연 최적조건을 도출하였다. 향후, 가연조건에 따른 제조된 가연사를 이용하여 제직 및 염색가공 공정을 거친후, 직물신축성 평가를 실시할 계획이다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.150-158
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• 2000

This study investigated mechanical properties, drape coefficients and node indices of stretch fabrics. We applied mechanical properties to exhibited tailorability control in HESC and evaluated making-up. The mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface characteristic values, thickness and weight were measured by the KES-F system and drape coefficient by drape tester. The summarized results of this study were as follows; First, stretch fabrics, almost, shown high stretch in weft inserted polyurethane yarn fabric and had a ${\pm}2{\sigma}$(sigma) range of shearing, compression, surface and thickness, except bending and weight, as compared with Japanese women's thin dress fabrics. Second, bending had a positive correlation in stiffness, anti-drape and flexibility & softness. Shearing had a negative correlation in crispness and scroop. Surface properties had a high contribution in fullness & softness. Third, The drape coefficient was found by measuring the mechanical properties according to the obtained regression equation. Forth, many problems are expected in overfeed and cutting operations in sewing process. In the decision of the good external appearance using TVA, only 26 of 55 samples are included in the range of the good external appearance. Fifth, in the regard of the result for sewing control, warp values are not necessary to control in the all kind of items. But weft value in the RT and EM are out of non-control zone. So we need a special management during sewing process.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.363-373
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• 2016

This study aims to develop an all-fabric integrated smart jacket in order to create a temperature-regulating system based on a user experience design. For this research, previous research technologies of a textile switch interface and a temperature-regulating system were utilized and a unifying technology for the all-fabric integrated smart jacket was developed which can provide the appropriate temperature environments to the human body. A self-heating textile was applied at the areas of the back and hood in the final tested jacket, and an embroidery circuit was developed in the form of a rectangle in the back and in both ears of the hood, taking into account the pattern of the jacket part where it was be applied and the embroidery production method. The textile switch interface was designed in a three-layer structure: an embroidery circuit line in a conductive yarn, an interval material, and a conductive sensing material, and it was made to work with the input and output sensors through the multiple input method. After the all-fabric integrated smart jacket was produced according to the pattern, all of the textile band lines for transmission were gathered and connected with a miniature module for controlling temperature and then integrated into the inside of the left chest pocket of the jacket. After the users put on this jacket, they were asked to assess the wearing satisfaction. Most of them reported a very low level of irritation and discomfort and said that the jacket was as comfortable as everyday clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.145-152
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• 2014

The usage of textile-based sensors has increased due to their many advantages (compared to IT sensors) when applied to body assessment and comfort. Textile-based sensors have different detecting factors such as pressure, voltage, current and capacitance to investigate the characteristics. In this study, textile-based sensor fabrics with sheath-core type conductive yarns were produced and the relationship between capacitance changes and applied load was investigated. The physical and electric properties of textile-based sensor fabrics were also investigated under various laminating conditions. A textile based pressure sensor that uses a sheath-core conductive yarn to ensure the stability of the pressure sensor in the textile-based sensor (the physical structure of the reaction characteristic of the capacitance) is important for the stability of the initial value of the initial capacitance value outside the characteristic of the textile structural environment. In addition, a textile based sensor is displaced relative to the initial value of the capacitance change according to pressure changes in the capacitance value of the sensor due to the fineness of the high risk of noise generation. Changing the physical structure of the fabric through the sensor characteristic of the pressure sensor via the noise generating element of laminating (temperature, humidity, and static electricity) to cut off the voltage output element to improve the data reliability could be secured.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.985-992
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• 2013

Polytrimethylene terephthalate(PTT) offers several advantageous properties such as good tensile strength, uniformity, stiffness, toughness, UV stability, resilience, stain resistance, outstanding elastic recovery, and dyeability. The effects of annealing temperature on physical properties and the structure of PTT filaments and yarn were investigated by measuring wide-angle X-ray diffraction (WAXD), density, optical birefringence, dynamic visco elasticity, and tensile testing. The intensity of maximum tan ${\delta}$ decreased and the temperature of maximum tan ${\delta}$ shifted to a higher temperature as the annealing temperature of filaments increased; however, it shifted to a lower temperature when the annealing temperature exceeded $130^{\circ}C$. In addition, crystallinity, density and D-spacing of (010) crystal face increased as the annealing temperature increased. Optical birefringence and specific stress were almost constant up to $100^{\circ}C$ and then decreased above $130^{\circ}C$. The shrinkage of PTT filament is 0 in boiling water when annealed above $130^{\circ}C$; consequently, the use of annealed fiber above $130^{\circ}C$ can remove thermal instability when dyeing PTT fiber. In the case of yarns, the thermal stability and physical properties of yarns showed the best effect when the ply number is less than 5, twist number is less than 400tpm, and the annealing time is 20minutes.

• Composites Research
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.17-22
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• 2002

Small diameter composite helical springs (CS) are developed using a hot plated mold for reinforcement of common optical fiber jumper cord (OJC). The outer diameters of the springs are about 2 ~ 3mm. These springs are inserted into the OJC to protect the damage of an optical fiber from the sudden lateral load. Two types of CS, Yarn type (Y-type) and Band type (B-type), are manufactured to compare the effectiveness for the damage protection. The experimental works were conducted to check the effect of the CS covered around OJC on the mechanical and optical properties. Experimental observations show a considerable effect on the flexural resistance, hence slowing down the deterioration of the optical power by the internal damage of the fiber. Obtained main results are as follows: (1) Y-type CS has better protection abilities to lateral loading than B-types. (2) Compared with bare OJC, CS-OJC has less power loss under the loading. (3) OJC covered with the composite coil spring has a possibility for a practical usage with full fruits.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.73-73
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 리싸이클 방법에 따른 리싸이클 폴리에스터사의 물리적 성질을 고찰하고자 하였다. 시료로는 물리적 리싸이클 방법과 화학적 해중합을 통한 리싸이클 방법을 사용한 폴리에스터사를 사용하였다. 리싸이클 폴리에스터사의 표면 형상을 관찰하기 위해 SEM을 이용하였고, 열적 거동을 규명하기 위해 DSC를 이용하였으며, 미세 구조적 차이를 살펴보기 위해 XRD 분석을 하였고, 역학적 성질을 평가하기 위해 인장강도와 절단신도를 측정하였다. 연구 결과, 리싸이클 방법에 따라 Tg, 결정화 온도, 융점과 융해열은 약간의 차이를 보였다. 화학적 리싸이클 PET사는 Virgin PET사보다 Tg가 약간 상승하였고, 승온 시 결정화 온도는 하강하였으며, 융점의 차이는 거의 없는 것으로 나타났다. 이는 해중합에 의해 PET의 비결정영역의 고분자 사슬 간의 거리가 좁아져 더 높은 Tg를 나타내는 것으로 생각된다. 또한, 물리적 리싸이클 PET사의 융점과 융해열은 화학적 리싸이클 PET사의 융점과 융해열보다 더 높게 나타났다. 결정화도에서는 리싸이클 방법에 따른 차이는 거의 보이지 않았다. 이는 리싸이클 공정이 폴리에스터의 결정영역 변화에는 유의한 영향을 미치지 않았기 때문인 것으로 생각된다. 실의 인장강도는 리싸이클 PET사는 virgin PET사보다 약간 더 낮았고, 물리적 리싸이클 PET사와 화학적 리싸이클 PET사는 비슷하게 나타났고, 절단신도는 virgin PET사, 물리적 리싸이클 PET사와 화학적 리싸이클 PET사 간의 뚜렷한 차이는 없는 것으로 나타났다.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.142-156
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• 2016

Convergence of IT devices and fashion is enabling the industry to take fully different approaches in various areas including product planning, fabric selecting, distributing, and marketing. At the same time, it also transforms the definition of clothing itself. Convergence of IT technologies in the realm of fashion and textiles industries can create a powerful synergy through connection digital devices, such as mobile phone. In this context, this study attempts to suggest how IT technology can be efficiently harnessed through the usage of mobile devices in the planning stage of fashion materials, where the initial production plan of a clothing item is mapped out. This study ultimately aims to enhance the effectiveness of databases on fashion material information by using mobile devices to utilize NFC, an RFID technology having as much revolutionary power as Internet - which can be the convergence between IT and fashion across the software dimensions. To pursue this research, data on fashion material information regarding 200 woven fabric specimens were provided by textile companies. The information includes elements such as its composition, weight, width, yarn, density and sales report. These pieces of information were organized into a database. Drawing on this data, Android-based applications that allow smart phones to read off fabric information from NFC tags were developed for this study using two methods. The system works as follows: 1. NFC tag stickers are attached onto the hangers where 200 fabric samples are hanging. 2. The NFC tag stickers are tagged, or read off from a smart phone that support NFC functions. 3. Upon tagging, the Smart phone swiftly displays all information available on its screen - not only the aforementioned six elements, but also the image of the clothing item from the fabric in its finalized product form, and the video of the model wearing the item - for convenient view. The method harbors immense potential for the fashion industry in general, and will also be useful in those fields inside the industry that harness NFC technology.