• 복식
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• 제21권
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• pp.19-30
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• 1993

There are record that ancient Korean WOOl fabrics male from sheep, camel, rabbit. bear, horse. calile, raccoon dog, fox and so on. Wool fiber fabriher were also reported Kye, Gal, China, Tap Dung, Kuyu anul ram. These wool fabrics wre named amongling to their fineness and weaving method in the fabric. Technology of wool fabric weaving was developed and from Sam Kuk dynasties to to Koryo Dynasty wool fabrics were reported to weave and trade to China, Japan and Arabia. These fabrics were mainly used as clothes, rugs or blankets. In Koryo Dynasty, especially Kye Kurn was used for trading goods to China. There is another record that two thousand sheep, camels offord Koryo by Yo and Kum Dynasty. In this study, the characteristics of Korean wool fabrics will be disscussed from the literature survey of the relevant references.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.367-372
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• 1991

In this study, we discussed about the factors effected upon the initial maximum value of heat flux ($q_{max}$). Thermal conductivity, thermal transmittance and surface air cavity of wool fabrics were examind and their correlation to the $q_{max}$ was studied. The factors were examined which had an effect upon the $q_{max}$ of an objective measure of warm/cool feeling. It was simulated by Thermo-Labo apparatures. We selected twenty sorts of pure wool woven fabrics for men's fall -winter cloth (all Wool). The conclusions are as follows; 1. There was not a certain correlation between the $q_{max}$ and the thermal conductivity of wool fabric. 2. When the fabrics touched on the copper plates, the thickness of wool fabric had a negative correlation to the $q_{max}$. The thermal transmittance had a positive correlation. Both of them had a good correlation to the $q_{max}$. 3. As a major factor, the thickness of fabric effected on the $q_{max}$.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권2호
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• pp.127-137
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• 2012

This study focuses on the optimal washing conditions for dry cleaning recommended fabrics to minimize dimensional changes using wet cleaning. We suggest water-based alternatives to a perchloroethylene based cleaning process. Wool and rayon fabrics were laundered under various washing conditions and then air-dried for 24hrs. All specimens were extended after spinning and shrunk after drying. This is probably because the fibers were swollen and extended by wetting. The wool fabrics were shown to be acutely influenced by washing temperature and mechanical force. The optimal washing conditions for wool fabric to minimize the dimensional change implied a normal washing temperature and minimized mechanical force. For rayon specimens, dimensional change by a hand wash showed a remarkable decrease compared with a machine wash. Rayon fabric seemed to be influenced by the quantity of water contained in the fabric after spinning and washing time. Therefore, the desirable washing conditions for rayon fabric are to reduce the time required for washing and to increase the spin speed.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.129-142
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• 2013

Fabrics created unique features through the change in various ways depending on the elements including fabric structure, threads, thickness, weaving, patterns and processing. This study examined the difference between texture and image depending on components of fabrics. In order to understand the trend of components of fabrics, the actual components of fabrics was analyzed by year, using the women's apparel trend books, Nelly Rodi Fabrics and Promostyl Fabrics. This study analyzed Spring/Summer season and Fall/Winter season from 2002 to 2012. Frequency analysis, cross-tabulation analysis, multiple response cross tabulation analysis were implemented using SPSS 18.0. The followings are the analysis results. For fabric composition, Spring/Summer season used cotton fabric the most. Cotton fabric accounted for relatively high usage in 2005, 2007 and 2008. Fall/Winter season used wool the most in 2002, 2003, 2004 and 2005. In case of fiber blend by fabric composition, cotton was blended with other fibers in Spring/Summer season except wool. The fiber blending ratio of wool was the highest in Fall/Winter season. Wool was blended in most fabrics. More than two patterns were mixed for fabric patterns. The fabric patterns were applied the most in 2012. For fabric processing, the fabrics by sensitivity-functional processing were continuously used every year and the surface finish showed relatively high usage in 2002 and 2011. In conclusion, this study will build the systematic data for 11 years including fabric trends in the past. It can improve specialization, systematization and efficiency in fabric planning.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.26-34
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• 2008

Wool fabric having high moisture content were treated with fluorocarbon-based water and oil repellent finishing agents by pad-dry-cure system. Three types of finishing agents which were regular-type or nano-type were adapted to compare the surface chemical composition, water and oil repellent property, crease recovery angle, and durability to repeated laundering. From the surface chemical compositions resulted by ESCA and C1s curve-fitting, it was shown that the regular-type finishing agent were easily taken off from the finished wool fabrics after repeated laundering. On the other hand, the fluoroalkyl groups of nano-type finishing agents turned round from fabric surface to fiber internal after repeated laundering. The water repellency of the wool fabrics treated with regular-type agent had a little changes according to the treatment condition changes and sharply decreased with repeated laundering. However, these values when treated with nano-type agents increased with the concentration and cure temperature and were maintained after 20 times laundering. The wool fabrics treated with nano-type agent had a great oil repellency irrespective of treatment conditions. Furthermore, the wrinkle recovery values of the wool fabrics treated with nano-type agents were higher than those of the fabrics treated with regular-type agent and were unchanged after 20 times laundering.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.67-71
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• 1984

This study has been carried out to investigate the differences of compressional properties in various wool fabrics which have different structural conditions in composing ratio of wool fabric, count of material yarn and cloth count of fabric. The result of the study are summarized as follows ; 1. The wool fabrics woven with lower with lower count yarn are superior to those woven with higher count yarn in the property of compression and resiliance of compression. 2. All wool fabrics are superior to polyester/wool blended fabrics in the property of compression and inferior in the linearity. 3. In general as the cloth count of fabrics increases, the percentage of compression decrease and the linearity increases proportionally in wool fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권8호
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• pp.1057-1064
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• 2004

Silk, polyester, cotton, and wool fabrics were embroidered with varying stitch length of 3mm, 5mm, and 10mm to examine the difference in fabric shrinkage in terms of sewing direction, fabric thickness, cover factor, stitch length, and fiber type. Warp, filling, and bias direction of sewing resulted in no difference in fabric shrinkage. Within the samples with same stitch length, there was less fabric shrinkage in fabrics with higher fabric thickness or higher cover factor. There was larger shrinkage when sewn with longer stitch length. Comparing fabrics with different fiber types but similar fabric thickness, silk and polyester fabrics showed the smallest fabric shrinkage and wool fabrics showed the largest shrinkage. It is shown that similar fabric shrinkage between silk and polyester is due to the similarity in cover factor.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.119-127
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• 2002

Dyeing properties of the colorants extracted from acorn on wool fabric were investigated. Effects of dyeing temperature, dyeing time, repeating, and pH on dye uptake and colorfastness were explored. Acorn colorants showed very good affinity to wool fiber and produced bright to dark brown color ranged 4.81-8.97YR, 4.46-7.47/1.79-3.35. ,Higher temperature increased dye adsorption, so did longer time and more repeating. Washfastness was fairly good. The Dyed wool fabric had deeper color after irradiation to light. pH had an effect on the development of color, also. Dye uptake and washfastness were higher in acidic and alkaline pH than in neutral pH solution.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제40권6호
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• pp.185-195
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• 2002

This study was carried out to investigate the wearing silhouette of jackets according to the mechanical properties, primary hand value and total hand value of the 3 types of wool fabrics. Wool/PET(50/50), wool/PET(80/50) and wool(100%) fabrics were used as test specimens. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system and primary hand value and total hand value were calculated by equation KN-203-LDY. We made three experimental jackets based on the precious jacket pattern and used Moir Photography to measure the amounts of space between the jacket clothes and body surface from the overlap cross section map. The results were as follows: 1) In mechanical properties, woo/PET(80/20) fabric showed higher bending and shear rigidity. 2) In evaluation of primary hand and total hand, wool 100% fabric showed higher NUMERI and FUKURAMI hand and total hand value. 3) From the reset of Moir Photography, the wearing shapes of the experimental jackets were influenced by the characteristics of fabrics. Except for the hip part, the garment ease of wool/PET(80/20) fabric was estimated more highly.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2011

Research information related to application of enzyme as pretreatment and subsequent functional finishing on wool blended textiles for imparting multi-functional properties is still scanty. Yarn-blended wool/cotton fabric was pretreated with both a cellulase (Bactosol-CA) or a protease (Savinase-16.0LEx) in individual, subsequently finished with Synthappret-BAP and ${\beta}$-cyclodextrin based combination to impart anti-shrink, anti-microbial, softening and anti-crease properties. The performance of the finished fabrics depended on type of finishing combinations applied rather than enzyme pretreatment. Savinase pretreatment followed by Synthappret+Ceraperm-MW combination finishing impart both anti-shrink property as well as softening, while Bactosol pretreatment followed by ${\beta}$-cyclodextrin and sanitize combination finishing impart antimicrobial activity as well as anti-shrink finish to the wool/cotton blend fabric.